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Post by socal50 on Aug 20, 2015 23:37:50 GMT -5
PROBLEM SOLVED: One of the vacuum lines cracked. Almost completely broken off, that was the problem! Somehow, it would start and run, however it wouldn't start when hot because of this!
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Post by socal50 on Aug 20, 2015 17:50:30 GMT -5
Auto enricher circuit unplugged.......fuel tank not properly vented..... Auto choke is hooked up, fuel tank is vented (I rode around without the fuel cap to eliminate this as a potential problem). Also removed fuel line from pump and cranked over, squirted fuel all over the place. |
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Post by socal50 on Aug 19, 2015 20:52:40 GMT -5
Carb is new. Head is new on motor (spark plug hole was stripped). Valves adjusted 3 miles ago haha.
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Post by socal50 on Aug 19, 2015 19:41:27 GMT -5
Hello all,
Have a 150cc gy6 scooter. Scooter runs great, but after its warmed up it doesn't run. Either won't start or will die when I give it gas. Any ideas guys?
I have played alot with the jeting, it has an intake and filter with stock exhaust, right now at 110 or so jet (sea level).
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Post by socal50 on Aug 4, 2015 23:42:00 GMT -5
I'm not sure about the needle adjustment, any recommendations? I can switch the jet back down. Exhaust is stock, but I can gut it if need be.
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Post by socal50 on Aug 3, 2015 22:08:18 GMT -5
First funny story: Scoot seemed to be doing great, put it up for sale, guy checked it out, gave me the cash, done deal right? Wrong. I heard him trying to get it started (after just test riding it and it was running great). Long story short, couldn't get it to run right again, gave him his money back  Scooter aint running right: This scoot was doing great, however spark plug hole was stripped. I rode it all over still though, seemed to be doing good until the plug shot out and I was stranded. Rather than something more ghetto, I put a new head on the motor, and changed the oil. Adjusted valves and everything. Put it all back together, then something hasnt been right since. I recently put a UNI air filter on it and jetted it (drilled) to 125. Seemed to run great, but then after it was all warmed up it would die. Now I put a 135 jet on it, and it runs good at lower end, but there is little top speed and all hesitation. Wondering if I should put the jet back. Any ideas on what is going on with this puppy? |
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Post by socal50 on Jul 28, 2015 10:58:24 GMT -5
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Post by socal50 on Jul 28, 2015 10:57:49 GMT -5
Do you have a multimeter? Make sure the button is getting voltage when the key is turned to on, if it is try crossing the button wires to simulate pressing the button. Does the dash read the gas level and such when the key is on? Is the thin wire leading from the solenoid securely connected to the connector? Are any of the starter button wires loose or the killswitch wires loose? I appreciate the help, but I think you are on the wrong wavelength here. Wiring is all new, its probably Ok, it's really probably some kind of safety switch that is keeping the button from working. |
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Post by socal50 on Jul 27, 2015 23:13:20 GMT -5
 Hello all. Trying to make sense of this harness.I have the bike running, however: -The start button will not work, I just short out above the starter solenoid to make it crank. I believe the front brake switch needs to be connected and maybe that could the the issue? -I really don't know what to do with "Engine gear line" / "Gear indication"? -Key doesnt cut out spark (Got it started... almost lost the whole bike it started reving so high!) |
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Post by socal50 on Jul 27, 2015 23:06:30 GMT -5
Hi All,
Changed out the whole harness with a harness off of Ebay for $66. Bike started.
Wanted to give this update so everyone could know that the ignition could test out perfect... and it could still spark related. That's what I figured out here. I'll start another thread with some questions I have on bringing the harnesses together. Thak you all!
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Post by socal50 on Jul 23, 2015 17:21:23 GMT -5
Without going back and re hashing everything that has been done or discussed, I think I would start over from square one and re verify what you have done. From all indications and tests, this motor should start and run. How I attack a non running GY6 Ensure that the battery is fully charged, check kill switch is in the proper position. ( I have missed this step and felt stupid when I found it) Remove the air filter tube from the carb and squirt a small amount of carb cleaner directly into the throat of the carb, if it starts or attempts too, troubleshoot the fuel system.  % of my fuel issues have been plugged idle jets and dirty carbs. Check for spark, I have an inductive spark checker for this, that is reliable and quick just to see if the coil is firing, If so, then I have eliminated the stator as an issue, and normally the CDI. I have had one or two CDIs trick me that they were working but the machine still did not run until I replaced them. Next I check the compression. I kill a few birds with one stone at this step. Remove and inspect the plug. I also ground the plug to the case with a modified short car jumper cable, and check the intensity of the spark, if weak I change the coil after I have done a compression check. A gy6 requires a minimum of PSI to run, anything above 120 PSI is acceptable. Low compression can be caused by many things, from a simple valve adjustment to a hole in the piston. Next, I remove the valve cover, and check the valve adjustment. I do this a bit different than some. I rotate the motor until the exhaust valve is fully open and then adjust the intake valve to .004 inch. Then rotate the motor so the intake valve is fully open and adjust the exhaust to .004 inch. This has worked well for me for many years. Then I pull the inspection plug on the fan shroud and check that the cam timing is correct at Top Dead Center. If no joy by this point, which is really rare, I put everything back together and get out my battery powered inductive timing light. Connect it and check that the motor is actually firing at the "F" mark on the flywheel. Odd stuff I have run across, when all the above tested "good" A plug that will not fire under compression A CDI that did fire the plug but was bad anyways. A weak coil that also fired the plug and appeared to be strong An intermittent Trigger on the stator. Good Luck Jim Thanks for the input. Been through all of this except for the odd stuff....but parts are on the way to test that. The regulator is needed on this motor to run, correct? The only problem I have really been able to recover is a problem with the reg, leading me to believe that it might possibly be some kind of electronic glitch. In my mind, I am thinking the only thing that would make the trike not wire at ALL, not even hint at possibly wanting to start at all, means it has to be a spark. Surely if the valves were off I might get little glimmers of hope or if it was a fuel delivery problem the starting fluid would give me a few pops. |
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Post by socal50 on Jul 22, 2015 23:27:54 GMT -5
Bought not running. Thought it would be an east fix like every other gy6 I have owned.... nope! I bought a scooter for $150, got it running in 15 minutes. Bought a GY6 go cart, put a new carb in it and had it going in no time..... this is the only GY6 I have really struggled to get going. that provides a lot of good information. Can you post a video of how the trike sounds when you try to start it with a freshly charged battery? I dont think there is really any use to post a video. Cranking it sounds good, sounds like it should. I am very familiar with these motors. I use a trickle charger on it after cranking it for a while. |
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Post by socal50 on Jul 22, 2015 22:36:09 GMT -5
I have a question about when the problems first started happening. Did you buy it and it didn't run? Or did it stop working one day after you took it for a cruise? Bought not running. Thought it would be an east fix like every other gy6 I have owned.... nope! I bought a scooter for $150, got it running in 15 minutes. Bought a GY6 go cart, put a new carb in it and had it going in no time..... this is the only GY6 I have really struggled to get going. |
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Post by socal50 on Jul 22, 2015 22:15:09 GMT -5
After reading all of this, I can see where you are pulling your hair out. Correct me if I am wrong, you have spark and compression and have sprayed starting fluid into the throat of the carb and still no joy, by the way I would use crab cleaner instead of starting fluid, starting fluid can cause issues in these small motors. . You adjusted your valves and still no joy. Here is where I would go next, remove the fan shroud from the right side of the motor and the valve cover., inspect that the flywheel is tight to the crank, remove the spark plug and then rotate the crankshaft by hand until you are at Top Dead Center as indicated by the mark on the case (at approx the 9 o'clock position) and the "T" mark on the flywheel. Now take a look at the cam gear and make sure that the two small holes are aligned with the top of the cylinder head and the the large hole in the gear is straight up. If this is not correct, check that the woodruff key did not shear off the crank and has allowed the flywheel to move, if that is okay, then re time the cam.   Done. When I rotate the motor to the T the two smaller dots line up, then I rotate again and the large hole is centered while showing the T on the flywheel. |
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Post by socal50 on Jul 22, 2015 18:31:47 GMT -5
is the the cdi ac or dc? I would hold off on ordering a harness, put up some pictures of the cart. John CDI is AC, however I have no idea of knowing what could have been mixed up with it. |
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% of my fuel issues have been plugged idle jets and dirty carbs.
