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Post by steve on Jun 29, 2015 14:21:49 GMT -5
That power is a good, and bad thing. Unfortunately, you will be wearing out rear tires, like my Zuma does. Just get a tire with the most rubber touching the road as possible, The more grooves, the faster it will wear out. My Zuma came with something that looked like a knobby off road tire, and it lasted about 1500 miles. I just looked on that ebay page, and there is only 1 that looks like it won't wear out really quickly, and it isn't your size. You need a tread pattern like this(hope I can get the image to post, LOL).  |
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Post by steve on Jun 29, 2015 14:15:45 GMT -5
Looks like they are just a metal tab. They are easily broken. I researched them a bit, and I would not mess with it. Get a lock, and a way to disable the ignition in a creative, or fool proof way. Stealing scoots is an expanding business. Several have been busted around here stealing them, painting them, and selling them on ebay, or craig'slist.
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Post by steve on Jun 29, 2015 13:42:50 GMT -5
I don't know. I doubt it's welded. I don't have one on my scoot. I would think it is plastic. I doubt something metal was broken that easy. But, I would bet it is broken, and you would have to get a new part. I will research it for you.
All I know is that all parts of the ignition key switch are very easily bypassed. You just disconnect 1 wire harness, and you can kick-start it, and roll down the road. I would get a cable and lock, or take your CDI with you, or both. Check your wiring, they may have hot-wired it. Does the key turn it off? If so, they didn't get that far.
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Post by steve on Jun 29, 2015 13:38:48 GMT -5
Naidun is good? that is what was on it stock... but it lasted less then 4k miles... I'll try shinko i guess. thank you I think they are a decent mid-line tire, yes. If your scooter is real torque-y, the back tire will go pretty quick. My Yamaha 2T goes through tires that quick. It doesn't matter if they are Michelin. If your scooter does not have good low end power, that is bad. I do believe Shinko is about like Naidun. Somebody can correct me, and please do, but I would say the next step up would be Kenda. Then, Pirelli, Michelin, etc. You can tell by the price. You get what you pay for. Does your scoot have really good power from 0-15mph? |
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Post by steve on Jun 29, 2015 12:56:54 GMT -5
Not sure. I've never messed around with that.
If you are going somewhere sketchy, unplug your spark plug, or, if your CDI is in the battery compartment, pull it out and stick it in your pocket. I disabled my start button, and put a toggle where nobody would ever look. Somebody tried to steal mine from the school parking lot where I teach.
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Post by steve on Jun 29, 2015 12:52:47 GMT -5
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Post by steve on Jun 29, 2015 11:39:05 GMT -5
Any rev control you have on your CDI, if any, will limit it from going over 8.5K-9K. So that is good. You can change to a performance CDI box, which has an advanced angle timing. You just unplug the old one, and plug the new one in. That is only going to do so much, though. I doubt you are going to be happy with the almost unnoticeable difference those will make. The 50cc's only have so much power. It sounds to me like you are going to want to install a big bore kit. You can get one for around $60-$100. The more expensive ones are WAY higher quality, so remember that. If you have a 139qmb engine on it, you can install a 50mm big bore kit, and the power increase is remarkable. If you live in South Carolina, I can help you out with it. The throttle response is incredible on mine. It is wearing my back tire out really quickly.
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Post by steve on Jun 29, 2015 11:25:44 GMT -5
I'll bet your clutch had a lot of dust built up in it. When you took her out, you knocked the dust off of her, and voila.
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Post by steve on Jun 29, 2015 11:22:07 GMT -5
The Kenda brand is good. Michelin is good. 4K is probably less than average, I would say. Scrappydog sells a pretty good tire, I would imagine. I'll find you a link, hold on: Here you go. www.scrappydogscooters.com/COMMON_PARTS.htmlOr, just go on ebay, and search for scooter tires, and get a whitewall of a name you recognize. Kenda, Michelin, Pirelli, etc. Good luck, Steve |
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Post by steve on Jun 29, 2015 11:08:46 GMT -5
The power wire back there for the brake lights is a green and yellow wire. Easy enough to find. Test it with a meter to see if you are getting power when you squeeze the brake handle. You can tape, or tie the handle down. If you are getting 12v, then you just have to make sure the ground wire is grounded. It should be a solid green wire. There are 3 wires back there. The brown one(yours may be yellow) is +12v for the running tail light, the green and yellow is the +12v for the brake light, and the other one, probably light green(or darker green), is the ground. If you are getting 12v to the green and yellow wire, then you just need to make sure the ground wire runs to the frame somewhere, uninterrupted. You can run a new wire, if you need to. It doesn't need to be anything heavy duty for the brake light. You could also run a wire from the negative terminal on your battery, if you don't see a spot on the frame to attach it to.
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Post by steve on Jun 29, 2015 10:54:40 GMT -5
I am a curious guy, sorta like our ole' pal George. I have noticed something about these things. On the 8 pole stators, some have 2 ignition coils, some have 1. They will both work fine, as I have used both in the past, on the same scooter. Is there any advantage to the one with 2 ignition coils? With 1 ignition coil, you have the advantage of another coil dedicated to lights/charging. Anybody know why some have 1, and some have 2? I recently changed over to the 11 pole stator, and I highly recommend it. My kick-starter is broken, and until I get the dough to order a new one, I am running 2 batteries on my scoot. That 11 pole stator charges both of those, no problem. It charges at roughly 14 volts at idle. I have no doubt it could keep 3 charged. I initially kept my original R/R for charging, and used a 7 wire one as a DC converter for lights, but Jerry told me that was unnecessary, and he was right. The old 4 wire R/R would charge at around 13 volts, which isn't good enough for 1 battery. The 7 wire rectifiers are SOOOO much better, so thanks Jerry! I ran all new wiring. Got different color 16 gauge from the autoparts store, and cut the connector off of the stator, and used bullet connectors. Same with the rectifier. Just cut the connector off, and used bullet connectors. I can disconnect them, and reconnect them as I please. Anyways, I kind of digressed. I was curious about the reasoning behind 1 ignition coil vs. 2 ignition coils. Also, there are a few different kinds of 6 and 7 wire rectifiers. The 11 pole stator is 3 phase( you can tell with a wire tester), and IMO, when paired with a 3 phase rectifier, gives you a much better source of DC voltage, and does a MUCH better job of charging your batteries. What's wrong with your kick start ? I have two of them . Layin around. My case cracked. It was from kickback, from kick-starting it after BBK installation. Pretty sure the advanced angle CDI causes kickback. Isn't that right? I have a 50cc. I am going to have to order a new case, and kick starter. |
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Post by steve on Jun 29, 2015 10:52:35 GMT -5
My CDI has an LED that lights every time it fires. I wonder if we could video it, slow the vid down, and count them. We would just have to count for 1, or 5 seconds. It would have to be somebody who is better at messing with videos than me, though. We could do the same with the flywheel. Slow the vid down, and count how many times it goes around. Mine idles at about 3K, now that I installed the BBK. It's probably the advanced angle CDI that makes it cut out at lower RPM. If you can do that , it would be great. That way you can compare your numbers to your tach. I don't know if I know how to slow it down. I shall try. |
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Post by steve on Jun 28, 2015 17:00:38 GMT -5
Your main jet may be too large.
It could also be the needle, or the diaphram is failing. I would just order a new carb.
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Post by steve on Jun 28, 2015 16:56:23 GMT -5
My CDI has an LED that lights every time it fires. I wonder if we could video it, slow the vid down, and count them. We would just have to count for 1, or 5 seconds. It would have to be somebody who is better at messing with videos than me, though.
We could do the same with the flywheel. Slow the vid down, and count how many times it goes around. Mine idles at about 3K, now that I installed the BBK. It's probably the advanced angle CDI that makes it cut out at lower RPM.
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Post by steve on Jun 28, 2015 9:30:41 GMT -5
Probably the flasher.
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