Post by upfartoolate on Dec 11, 2015 14:19:37 GMT -5
No. I'll be removing the stator, and creating a second flywheel that fits inside the OEM flywheel, with magnets in it to transfer torque between the two flywheels. That second flywheel will be fit on the shaft of a conventional (but small) 30 amp regulated brushless waterproofed alternator that will be mounted external to where the OEM stator now sits.
This is to do away with the ground-shunt voltage regulator. The OEM setup generates power at full capacity all the time, and dumps any excess to ground, which is a waste. A side benefit is that I'll have about 10 amps more generating capacity.
So I should be able to create the balancer such that it fits inside the second flywheel, while being mounted to the first.
Extremely late to the party,,, fabricating a Desmo system based head is crazy expensive,,,have you looked into modding an existing Ducati head to fit?
Might be easier to get the entire cylinder and head, and just figure out how to fit the cylinder to the block. I'll research what cylinder bores Ducati used. My bike is 62 mm bore. If I use a sleeved mm Ducati cylinder and head with a 8mm thick ceramic sleeve, I could keep my 62 mm bore, get ceramic heat shield on the cylinder wall, and have Desmo. The piston face, head and exposed portions of the valves will also be ceramic coated. The engine will have WS2 in it to minimize friction, so the ceramic sleeve should last quite a while.
One of the reasons I want Desmo valve actuation is that rather than going for a high RPM screamer, this bike is a high-MPG project bike. So we want the engine turning as slowly as possible at any given speed (which is also why I'm trying to locate an IVT, which would let me tune engine speed at any given road speed so that the engine's turning slow but the throttle's open more to reduce pumping losses).
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Desmodromic_valve#Disadvantages "With conventional cams, stress is highest at full lift, when turning at zero speed (engine cranking), and diminishes with increasing speed as inertial force of the valve counters spring pressure, while a desmodromic cam has essentially no load at zero speed (in the absence of springs), its load being entirely inertial, and therefore increasing with speed."
So with conventional valvetrains, the slower you turn the engine, the more valvetrain stress there is. Vice versa with Desmo... the slower your engine turns, the less stress (and thus the less power required to move the valves).
The whole goal is to remove as many parasitic power drains as possible to increase efficiency. This is the tack I've been taking for the first stage in the project, and thus far the MPG has risen from an average of ~65 MPG over ~10,000 miles to 91.172 MPG on the last fuel-up, an all-time high.
Post by upfartoolate on Jul 20, 2015 16:54:32 GMT -5
Just an update... the new rear gears are worn in, and I've put 8.5 grams of tungsten disulfide in the engine oil and 1.75 grams in the gear oil to reduce friction. I'm now running a Pulstar HE1HT9 spark plug which has completely cured the cold rough idle, and on the 12th of this month I installed a Wolverine 9.0 120 volt 125 watt 3" diameter block heater on the underside of the engine, along with a Westek TE06WHB 2 Outlet Digital Timer. The timer has battery backup so it doesn't lose the date and time even when not plugged in for months, and it's got 20 programmable timer events. I've got it set up to turn on an hour before I leave home to go to work, and an hour before I leave work to go home.
With the changes thus far, I've increased fuel efficiency from around 65 MPG (historical average over ~10,000 miles) to 91.172 MPG on the last fuel-up. I expect it'll get further fuel efficiency bumps with each additional modification I make... reaching 150 MPG might be easier than I expected, but I'm going to see how high I can push it.
I also found a guy who's invented an IVT that'd be perfect for scooters like ours... he's named Tom Troester, and his IVT is called the Telam IVT. It's small, light, low frictional loss, can handle loads of torque, and is a geared IVT so there's no slippage. I just have to convince him to custom-build one for me... that's what his company does, so hopefully he'll take on the project. I'll mount the IVT on the engine shaft, and transfer the power to the rear gears via a flat cogged belt so there's very little friction. The IVT gear ratio will be changed via a twist-grip on the left handlebar. I'm not sure how much Troester's IVT costs, I've put an inquiry in to his company and am waiting for a reply. Whatever it costs, me want, me get.
I've also bought a Pertronix FlameThrower HV 60,000 volt ignition coil and MagneCor R-100 CN 10 mm spark plug wire. I got the extra-thick spark plug wire for the additional insulation, since I'll be experimenting with even higher voltage plasma discharge ignition later on. I've shipped the coil, wire and a spark plug to my electronics guy, who is designing an isolator (what the industry calls an "ignitor") to isolate the coil's back-EMF from the ECU and tachometer, while still allowing the tachometer to work. The isolator will be something I'll eventually offer for sale, since it lets us run pretty much any coil we want without worrying about blowing out our ECU, and with certainty that our tachometers will continue working as they did with the stock coil.
And my electronics guy informs me the micro-controller for the electric coolant pumps is nearly complete. I should have a bike-installable version within a couple months for road testing. That's another thing I'll be offering for sale, since the only other company offering electric coolant pumps and controllers can't PWM-control pumps as small as our bikes take... their controller just turns the pumps on and off (and once it's off, how does it know when to turn it back on, if there's no coolant flow?!). My microcontroller will control up to two pumps (5 amps each) and two fans (10 amps each), has a fast pulsed-warmup mode (pulses the pumps so the water around the cylinder is warmer than the bulk coolant in the rest of the system), a "ride it like you stole it" mode (if the bike's not fully warmed up, and you jump on and ride, it'll exit pulsed-warmup mode and vary pump speed according to throttle position), operational ramp mode (after the bike is warmed up, it varies pump speed to keep coolant at the correct temperature), an emergency overheat mode (it monitors cylinder head, exhaust and coolant temperatures... if any of those reach their user-configurable limits, both pumps kick on 100% and both fans turn on until the condition is cleared), and an optional run-on mode (the system can run-on for a user-configurable time after the bike is shut down to prevent heat soak). The other controllers only have 6 temperature setpoints and don't monitor head or exhaust temps, whereas with mine the temperature setpoints can be changed in increments of 1 degree F. It's configurable by plugging the microcontroller into a computer via USB, and has a dashboard readout to tell you pump speed (I opted for a simple LED bar graph to show pump speed for this iteration, since when riding you don't have a lot of time to process numerical readouts, but it could have numerical readouts in later versions). My microcontroller can control 2-wire, 3-wire and 4-wire pump motors, monitors pump PWM feedback (on 3-wire and 4-wire motors), and bumps up PWM duty cycle if it senses the pump has stalled. If it still can't get the pump to run, it'll start the other pump... the pumps are usually in a lead / lag configuration, and the microcontroller keeps track of pump run time, switching which pump is lead and which is lag to even out run times between the pumps.
One of the really cool things that can be done with my microcontroller is to vary coolant temperature based upon engine speed... if you're just putting around town at low RPMs, it jacks up coolant temperature by a user-configurable amount to make the engine more efficient. If you really get on the throttle, it'll lower the coolant temperature setpoint to prevent pre-ignition. Because it's got two pumps and two fans, and because the bulk coolant exiting the radiator(s) will always be cooler than the temperature setpoint for the coolant exiting the engine, it will be able to nearly instantly drop the temperature of the coolant around the cylinder by kicking the pumps on high.
Post by upfartoolate on Jun 19, 2015 9:28:11 GMT -5
This is a carbureted bike, yes? It may be that you have some sort of blockage in your carb. How long did it sit idle when you were putting the new big bore kit on it? You might have to crack open your carb and clean it out.
Post by upfartoolate on Jun 17, 2015 9:24:42 GMT -5
Ok, drop in a new plug, and turn your mixture screw out a bit... if it's running when you're squirting gas down the intake, that means it's running lean. The black on the plug may have been from before the new big bore kit. Put a new plug in so you can get a better take on how the bike's running with the new setup.
Also... and this'll sound like a dumb question, but... you did put rings on the new piston, right?
Yeah sorry about that anyways i had already planned on installing the 80cc big bore kit. Installed everything just like the you-tube video scrappydog big bore kit install. Everything but i didnt mess with the valves just left them the way they were off the old engine. Anyways engine just cranks and cranks putters maybe one or two times it sounds like it wants to start up really bad but just cant. Did the finger over the spark plug hole test. Now when you guys mean blow ur finger off. ? Do you mean like violently, or just softly . If i try to keep my finger from not being blown off it is impossible it always lifts my finger but it dont seem like a whole lot of power. Oh and the spark plug is wet and black really frustrated too get her going
Ah, that makes it clearer. Sounds like you need to check that your valves are sealing properly. Do a compression test. And make sure your valve lash is set correctly.
As for the wet and black spark plug... did you change the settings on the carb? I can't think that it'd be running rich when it's pulling more air in than before, but in this case, what you're describing is a rich mixture... so lean it out and keep trying. If you've got spark, and compression (even just a little bit) and fuel, she'll fire when you get the mix right.
You might also squirt a small shot of ether into the intake as you're trying to start it... that should at least get her to fire for a little bit.
okay I was already planning on installing a big bore kit I got the 80 c_c big bore kit just the piston cylinder installed everything and won't turn over hold the plug what is black put my finger over the whole barely any compression at all any suggestions
I'm assuming you're saying you've installed the 80 cc big bore kit, just the piston and cylinder (ie: no new crank), and now it won't turn over... that's likely because your starter motor isn't up to the task of kicking that larger motor over.
As for holding your finger over the puke tube, there won't be (shouldn't be) much pressure on that tube... in fact, the lower the better, as that means you have less ring blow-by. Under perfect conditions, it'd suck and blow a bit as the piston went up and down, but we'll never get a perfect seal on the rings. You'll always have from 3 to 5% blow-by.
Post by upfartoolate on Jun 9, 2015 11:11:05 GMT -5
My 2010 Kymco Yager GT 200i (174.5 cc fuel-injected liquid-cooled) bike just hit a new top speed of 86 MPH the other day. I was getting a lot of looks from people as I buzzed past them on the freeway.
Hybrid ceramic bearings that were micro-polished and tungsten disulfide (WS2) coated in the wheels and rear gears, new taller rear gears (15% taller, spur gears... sounds like an RC car on crack) and a Pulstar HE1HT9 spark plug. And the "secret weapon" of LiquiMoly Ceratec to improve ring seal and give better compression. My engine started revving to the rev-limiter way too easily about 1000 miles into the Ceratec treatment. That's why I had to gear up... I got tired of modulating the throttle to stay away from the rev limiter when I knew the bike had more in it.
Once I get the new aerodynamic body finished and mounted, and get an infinitely variable transmission fitted to it, it should top out around 108 MPH... just once... riding a 12" rear tire / 13" front tire scooter at that speed will probably be about 30 MPH faster than I'm comfortable with. I'm not really looking for top-end speed, but for maximum fuel efficiency.
Post by upfartoolate on Jun 9, 2015 10:42:28 GMT -5
I've got a good "Do's and Don'ts" for tires.
1) DO remove the oil drain pan from beneath the bike after draining the oil, replacing it, and before starting up the bike.
2) DO NOT rev the engine to burp that last bit of air out of the oil system if you've failed to follow 1) above, especially if your oil pan is wedged between your rear tire and main kickstand.
3) DO wash your tire for 2 hours with soapy water to remove all the oil if you fail to follow 1) and 2) above.
Stupidest thing I've ever done.
BTW, I run my tires at 40 psi front and rear (the sidewall printed pressure). They still grip so much I can scrape either side. Even in rain they're still pretty grippy and will haul the scoot to a quick stop. Never tried leaning to a scrape in the rain, though. I think that'd be pushing my luck.
Here's the video. Some of you are probably very familiar with this, and do it all the time, much like myself:
I purchased a large adj. wrench from harbor freight for $16 or so, and it's all I ever use. Breaks it loose every single time. My recommendation is to wear gloves tho when u hold the wrench over the clutch nut, as you might get pinched when you smack it. (rookie mistake, will NEVER do that again. lol)
Yup, that's the video that taught me how to take the clutch apart. Now I take it apart and put it back together that way... after you've done it a few times, you'll get a feel for how many whacks it takes to get the nut tight enough.
Gloves? Gloves are just an indication that you need to toughen up your hands.
Post by upfartoolate on May 31, 2015 18:18:28 GMT -5
Ok, an update. When the rear gearcase is cold, the gears are 'shrunk' a bit and the oil is still thick (ie: the first couple of miles of riding), the new rear gears are pretty much silent, just the slightest background spur gear whine.
As the miles pile on and things heat up, gears expand and oil thins out (especially at MPH), and the gears get noisier. You can't hear the "cogging", just the spur gear whine. The only time you can hear the "cogging" is when the rear gears are completely unloaded (ie: the clutch has disengaged and you're coasting), you can hear a slight rattle-like sound that, as you slow down, becomes apparent is the gear teeth clashing a bit.
So as you're decelerating, you hear the spur gear whine, then the clutch disengages and you hear this "crick-crick-crick-crick" noise that sounds somewhat like the rear fender rubbing on the tire.
But, it's much quieter now than it was, and when the bike's up on the main stand and I rotate the rear tire, I can only feel one tooth now "cogging", although I can still slightly hear the other two teeth if I spin the rear wheel... so it's getting worn in.
I'm changing the gear oil every week. The drained oil has a fair amount of very, very tiny metal shavings... can't think of an analogy... metal powder? It's extremely small stuff.
I bought a pound of 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2) from lowerfriction.com. After the cogging is done, I'll add it to the rear gears at 1.75 grams of WS2 to 200 ml of gear oil. That should not only reduce friction, it'll damp the spur gear whine somewhat.
I'm going to add it to the engine oil on my next days off, since it's due for an oil change. I'll add it at 8.50 grams of WS2 to 1000 ml of engine oil.
Post by upfartoolate on May 18, 2015 20:48:50 GMT -5
Well, I decided to do a combination of the two... I used a small file I bought to file down the teeth inner slopes a bit, then put it all back together and I'll let it wear the rest of the way in by itself.
I took it out for a test ride today, a nice and gentle ride that didn't exceed 35 MPH. Those three teeth still make noise, sounds sort of like a Roots blower, but it's not very loud. I expect within the next 1000 miles or so, the problem will rectify itself.
But those new bearings sure make the bike roll easily. Amazing.