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Post by upfartoolate on May 11, 2015 22:03:40 GMT -5
Hi, all.
Ok, so I had Jan Vos fabricate new rear gears for me a while back, and I finally got some free time to install them, along with hybrid ceramic bearings.
After I got all the new bearings in, I put in the new rear gears and hand-turned the wheel axle without the gear cover in place, just to be sure everything worked the way it should. It did. Those micro-polished and tungsten-sulfide coated hybrid ceramic bearings are slick.
But, when I put the cover on and tried to hand-turn the rear gears from the wheel axle, they'd turn a bit, and lock up! Thinking I'd messed something up, I pulled the cover, checked the diagram in the service manual, made sure the bearings weren't seizing up, and checked the runout on the gear shafts. It was all good.
So, I tried again... and the same thing happened. Going around to the left-hand side of the bike, I slowly turned the Gear #1 shaft (the shaft that the clutch mounts on)... I could distinctly hear and feel three teeth on the input gear shaft (Gear #1) lightly scraping against the gear teeth on Gear #2.
Confused, I tried again. I pulled the gear cover off, and turned the wheel's axle and the input shaft. All was smooth, turned very easily. Put the cover back on... three gear teeth scraping.
The cover off again, I turned the wheel axle as I squeezed Gear #1 and Gear #2 together with my fingers... ah, that was the problem... three teeth on Gear #1 had been ground just a tiny, tiny bit thicker at their bases than the rest of the teeth when the gear was fabricated. With conventional bearings, you'd likely not even notice since the bearing play would allow the Gear #1 and Gear #2 shafts to move a tiny bit. But the hybrid ceramic bearings don't have much play at all.
So, I buttoned up the rear gears, filled it with 200 ml of Royal Purple 70W-140 Synthetic Gear Oil with SynSlide, and spent the next 8 hours using a ratchet wrench and an electric impact driver, spinning the rear gears in both directions from the input shaft and the wheel axle in an attempt to wear-in those three teeth.
By the end of the 8 hours, I could turn the wheel axle by hand and it wouldn't lock up anymore, but I could still feel a slight "cogging" as those three teeth in Gear #1 engaged with Gear #2. The gear oil had a lot of "glitter" in it when I drained it.
I opened the gear cover again, and I could clearly see the three offending teeth... all the other teeth had minor polishing on the outer ~70% of the teeth face, but those three were polished all the way into the crevice between the teeth. The three teeth sit next to each other, so Jan Vos may have made a mistake when he began cutting the gear, or when he was finishing.
So... should I just ride it and let the teeth wear in? Will it damage the gears to do so? I plan on riding gently until this "cogging" is completely gone.
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Post by JerryScript on May 11, 2015 22:22:43 GMT -5
If I paid to have custom gears made, I would expect them to work or be fixed.
I do not recommend what you are doing, grinding down the gears in the case. All that "glitter" in the gear oil could damage your expensive bearings. And you will never end up with perfect wear down.
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Post by upfartoolate on May 12, 2015 12:50:22 GMT -5
The problem is that Jan is all the way over in Belgium, and for three little teeth on one little gear, it's really not worth the cost of shipping.
So I've got a few choices: 1) Ship it back to Jan for milling a couple thousands off the back of those three teeth.
2) Find a shop that can mill it off locally.
3) Mill it off myself.
4) Run it in until the gears are meshing the way they should... and yes, they'll eventually get there, it's just metal, it'll shave and polish until the gears engage with the lowest friction they can get to. That's kind of what moving metal parts do to each other.
The bearings I'm not worried about. Those ceramic balls are way stronger and tougher than my OEM bearings, and the OEM bearings took "glitter" in the gear oil just fine when the bike was new.
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Post by JerryScript on May 13, 2015 10:56:25 GMT -5
The problem is that Jan is all the way over in Belgium, and for three little teeth on one little gear, it's really not worth the cost of shipping. So I've got a few choices: 1) Ship it back to Jan for milling a couple thousands off the back of those three teeth. 2) Find a shop that can mill it off locally. 3) Mill it off myself. 4) Run it in until the gears are meshing the way they should... and yes, they'll eventually get there, it's just metal, it'll shave and polish until the gears engage with the lowest friction they can get to. That's kind of what moving metal parts do to each other. The bearings I'm not worried about. Those ceramic balls are way stronger and tougher than my OEM bearings, and the OEM bearings took "glitter" in the gear oil just fine when the bike was new. You seem to have your mind set, so what advice are you seeking?
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Post by upfartoolate on May 14, 2015 11:43:03 GMT -5
You seem to have your mind set, so what advice are you seeking? That's the thing, I don't have enough info to "have my mind set". I know the gears will wear in, eventually, and there's not a lot of metal to remove to get there (if there were, I'd not have been able to turn the gears from the clutch end by hand... the only reason the wheel axle side locked up is because it's geared up and took more effort to turn than my hand could provide). Now I can turn the wheel axle side by hand, but I still feel the "cogging". As an aside, with the OEM bearings and gears, the wheel axle was really hard to turn (due to the gearing, combined with bearing drag and the OEM gears not being micropolished and tungsten sulfide coated). You had to death-grip it and crank hard. Whereas with the hybrid ceramic bearings and new gears, it's pretty easy, except for those three teeth. I'll be putting WS2 in the gear oil to ensure everything's coated with the stuff... it's got a really low coefficient of friction. But should I just take the gears out and shave them myself or have a metalworking shop do it? If I do so, how much is enough, and how much is too much? I'm apprehensive that I'll have too much metal taken off, and it'll mess it up even more.
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Post by JerryScript on May 14, 2015 22:55:50 GMT -5
I think if I was in your shoes, I would pull them and use a dremel to fix them. The best methodology is to take it slow, shaving a bit, assembling and testing, then disassembling and grinding a bit more, reassemble and retest. You can't replace what you remove, so slow and painstakingly is the way to go.
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Post by upfartoolate on May 15, 2015 9:25:30 GMT -5
I need to be able to get all the way down into the crevice between the teeth, and I need to be able to remove material evenly across the tooth face... would a tiny file do it? I can get a set of jeweler's files off eBay pretty inexpensively.
How would I gauge how much more to take off? Would coating the gears with Prussian Blue and turning them for a while wear off the Prussian Blue and show me where I need to file next?
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Post by JerryScript on May 15, 2015 11:28:43 GMT -5
I'm no expert on this, the best advice I can give is to take them to a machine shop that can fix them with the proper equipment.
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Post by upfartoolate on May 18, 2015 20:48:50 GMT -5
Well, I decided to do a combination of the two... I used a small file I bought to file down the teeth inner slopes a bit, then put it all back together and I'll let it wear the rest of the way in by itself.
I took it out for a test ride today, a nice and gentle ride that didn't exceed 35 MPH. Those three teeth still make noise, sounds sort of like a Roots blower, but it's not very loud. I expect within the next 1000 miles or so, the problem will rectify itself.
But those new bearings sure make the bike roll easily. Amazing.
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Post by ramblinman on May 18, 2015 21:22:33 GMT -5
Well, I decided to do a combination of the two... I used a small file I bought to file down the teeth inner slopes a bit, then put it all back together and I'll let it wear the rest of the way in by itself. I took it out for a test ride today, a nice and gentle ride that didn't exceed 35 MPH. Those three teeth still make noise, sounds sort of like a Roots blower, but it's not very loud. I expect within the next 1000 miles or so, the problem will rectify itself. But those new bearings sure make the bike roll easily. Amazing. i would change the gear oil often and research how to flush. those metal shavings will destroy your bearings.
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Post by upfartoolate on May 31, 2015 18:18:28 GMT -5
Ok, an update. When the rear gearcase is cold, the gears are 'shrunk' a bit and the oil is still thick (ie: the first couple of miles of riding), the new rear gears are pretty much silent, just the slightest background spur gear whine. As the miles pile on and things heat up, gears expand and oil thins out (especially at MPH), and the gears get noisier. You can't hear the "cogging", just the spur gear whine. The only time you can hear the "cogging" is when the rear gears are completely unloaded (ie: the clutch has disengaged and you're coasting), you can hear a slight rattle-like sound that, as you slow down, becomes apparent is the gear teeth clashing a bit. So as you're decelerating, you hear the spur gear whine, then the clutch disengages and you hear this "crick-crick-crick-crick" noise that sounds somewhat like the rear fender rubbing on the tire. But, it's much quieter now than it was, and when the bike's up on the main stand and I rotate the rear tire, I can only feel one tooth now "cogging", although I can still slightly hear the other two teeth if I spin the rear wheel... so it's getting worn in. I'm changing the gear oil every week. The drained oil has a fair amount of very, very tiny metal shavings... can't think of an analogy... metal powder? It's extremely small stuff. I bought a pound of 0.6 micron tungsten disulfide (WS2) from lowerfriction.com. After the cogging is done, I'll add it to the rear gears at 1.75 grams of WS2 to 200 ml of gear oil. That should not only reduce friction, it'll damp the spur gear whine somewhat. I'm going to add it to the engine oil on my next days off, since it's due for an oil change. I'll add it at 8.50 grams of WS2 to 1000 ml of engine oil.
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