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Post by JoeyBee on Jan 3, 2015 11:12:35 GMT -5
 This connects to.... That images looks like the vent line for your gas tank. Follow it and see ifit leads to the top of the tank. If so, unplug it, put a fuel filter on it if you have one, the let it be. If plugged that could be part of your problem if you don't have a hole drilled in your gas cap. As for the A/F screw, try backing it in all the way then letting it out 2-2.5 turns. It's hard to say without knowing the needle position and jet size. But that should get you into the ballpark of running. So now all you have connected to vacuum line is the carburetor? |
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Post by JoeyBee on Jan 3, 2015 9:10:59 GMT -5
Ok got rid of everything now i need to know the factory carb settings so i can get this thing to start without starter fluid. It wont idle till warm and needs the airbox choked to run. Anyone know them? I'm going to look for a tutorial on checking the valves as well to make sure i know what they are supposed to be set and how to do it. Looks like .004 and .005. Uhg its always something. My feeler only goes to .008. Time to go shopping. What type of carb is it? Is it stock with access restricting screws or aftermarket? And will you post a photo of it? |
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Post by JoeyBee on Jan 3, 2015 1:06:34 GMT -5
I believe that is called the camshaft stopper plate.
If you have one of these you can not rotate the engine counter-clockwise when adjusting valves. If you do, even the slightest, the clearances will be off.
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Post by JoeyBee on Jan 2, 2015 18:06:08 GMT -5
I have the same engine and vacuum line setup that you want.
From the factory there are several vent line connections that can be redirected. They did it that way for EPA standards, however in my opinion only foul up the engine quicker with dirty gas and screw with the air-fuel ratio.
From the crankcase you will have one vent tube. From your pictures it appears to already be vented to atmosphere. The factory setting would have directed it to the airbox.
The vent tubing from your valve cover also should be vented to atmosphere.
So for vacuum lines you should only have one that originates from the intake manifold to the carburetor. The airbox should only have fresh air going into it. Your gas tank may also have a vent tube, this is to prevent a vacuum from occurring. If it doesn't your gas cap will have a vent. Determining where your gas tank vents is important to prevent vapor lock. You do not want your gas tank vent plugged or clogged.
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Backfiring
by: JoeyBee - Jan 1, 2015 20:18:58 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by JoeyBee on Jan 1, 2015 20:18:58 GMT -5
How about you lain ? Was the moisture in the vacuum line fuel ? It gets a little confusing when someone else chimes in about the same issue. Don't take this the wrong way I'm just saying it gets a little confusing. I apologize if it appeared that I was chiming in on Lain's topic with problems of my own. My intention was to further discuss the possibilities of why moisture would be in vacuum lines in case Lain notices the same thing. Understandably if fuel is in the vacuum line the petcock diaphragm is leaking. But could running rich cause moisture in the lines? Forum consensus says factory carbs run lean which was where I was at. Maybe both extremes could cause the moisture. Or maybe something else causes it. Either way, I just want to learn as much as I can and avoid similar problems others have had. |
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Backfiring
by: JoeyBee - Jan 1, 2015 16:56:52 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by JoeyBee on Jan 1, 2015 16:56:52 GMT -5
Thank you for the advice.
I got the scooter by telling my wife it would be more cost effective for my 3.8 mile trip to work instead of the F150. But I also knew it would be a very fun hobby and excuse to turn a wrench.
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Backfiring
by: JoeyBee - Jan 1, 2015 16:41:06 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by JoeyBee on Jan 1, 2015 16:41:06 GMT -5
If the Vacuum line coming from the PETCOCK and or FUEL PUMP is wet that means the Petcock and or Fuel pump is bad and allowing gas to be sucked out of the VACUUM line as well as the Fuel hose, so in that case TO MUCH FUEL. And for starting and low rpms the MAIN JET has nothing to do with starting and or feeding fuel at that point so forget about the main jet. It is sucking in extra fuel from someplace and the only other place would be the VACUUM LINE. So let me repeat IF THE VACUUM LINE is wet from FUEL the VACUUM PETCOCK or FUEL PUMP whichever is on there is BAD. And that would explain why it runs good after warm up as well because since you have a BBK it needs more fuel and the extra fuel it is sucking in from the VACUUM is helping it after warm up due to the PILOT JET been plugged and set LEAN. my .02 Alleyoop It wasn't fuel. The moisture had a neutral smell to it. And when I tested the petcock by sucking on the line the moisture did not have a taste either. Everything is running fine now. I only have 300 km on my chinometer. Just curious of why it happened. |
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Backfiring
by: JoeyBee - Jan 1, 2015 15:12:58 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by JoeyBee on Jan 1, 2015 15:12:58 GMT -5
From all you say I would say it is getting to much fuel right off the bat. Check the Vacuum hose going to the PETCOCK, pull it off at the INTAKE MANIFOLD and see if it is wet. . Could you explain some of the symptoms of why moisture would be in the vacuum lines? Is running rich the only reason why it would happen? I'm asking because when changing my carburetor the other day I noticed a little moisture in the line that runs to the fuel petcock. It happened when I was running the stock carburetor and jet so I'm guessing it was running lean. The stock carburetor has the restriction screws on the bowl so I don't know the size of the main jet. |
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Post by JoeyBee on Dec 30, 2014 1:05:19 GMT -5
UPDATE The new carburetor went in without a problem. I also used the opportunity to install a clear fuel line. I also swapped out an unidentifiable main jet that came with it for a #114. Adjusted the air-fuel mixture screw and the ride is purring like a kitten. I may upgrade to the #120 main jet depending on the performance. For testing purposes I found a desolate straight stretch of road where I can go WOT for comparison after installing the carburetor and tuning in the future. GPS logged it as 0.163 miles (287.145 yards). Out of four runs I averaged 16 seconds (16, 16, 15, 16). It was too late to go for a ride after installation, so I will have to test it tomorrow. Spark Plug before carburetor installation.  After carburetor installation.  |
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Post by JoeyBee on Dec 29, 2014 12:21:45 GMT -5
leave the old air box where it is , pull the hose from the air box to the carb . Slip this on the back of your carb . John Why leave the air box where it is? Wouldn't the arm be in the way of the new filter? |
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Post by JoeyBee on Dec 28, 2014 21:44:49 GMT -5
Newbie question here: So my airbox is kind of like the one above.. how do you attach the uni filter when the original airbox is like that? Wouldn't a oiled unifilter need to be protected? The installation of a uni filter is very simple and straight forward. Loosen the hose clamp that attaches the air box to the carburetor. Follow the box outwards to the rear of the scooter and remove all connections and screws. When removing screws and bolts ensure they don't have a dual purpose, if they do like a couple CVT bolts, reattach once the air box is removed. Once done attach the uni filter to the carburetor which completes the installation. An unprotected oiled filter will be fine. Depending on where you drive your scoot will determine how often you clean it. If your driving it on a dirt track cleaning will be more regular than pavement driving around town. *** Installation of a uni/pod filter will require upgrading the main jet of the carburetor one or two sizes depending on the air flow*** |
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Post by JoeyBee on Dec 27, 2014 21:19:25 GMT -5
I think the only benefit to drilling a hole over using a vent tube is that there is no chance of a siphon effect with a vent hole in the gas cap. With a vent tube, if the tank is over filled and sloshed, and perhaps the scoot has to be at the proper angle, you can get siphoning as soon as the vent tube is full for a moment. This shouldn't occur with a properly placed vent tube, but scooters are not always on flat ground, and stuff happens!  Thanks for the explanation. I was wondering because the drill hole has a much smaller diameter than the venting hose. After reading your initial post more careful, I understand how drill can help improve ventalation. Either way, I'm here to learn. |
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Post by JoeyBee on Dec 27, 2014 19:02:55 GMT -5
What several members have done is drill a 1/16 inch hole in the gas cap, then plug the gas tank vent tube if it had one. Most of those who did this did not have a vent tube, and needed the extra ventilation to prevent vacuum lock. That's another good idea for allowing venting. Is there any benefits between the various methods? Or just personal preferences? |
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Post by JoeyBee on Dec 27, 2014 17:58:15 GMT -5
No problem man. It's good to hear you got your scoot up and running. I'm new here and to scooters, so for the past month I've been every topic I can.
As for the fuel tank, you need that hose venting. Similar to drinking from a glass or plastic bottle if you don't allow air into the container while "chugging" or constantly drinking it gets harder and harder for the liquid to escape due to negative pressure, a vacuum. The top vent equalizes the pressure by drawing air back into the tank. It's all sorts of cool science and physics.
Call me a nerd but I like that kind of stuff.
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Post by JoeyBee on Dec 27, 2014 17:42:41 GMT -5
So I finally got myself on the road again. However when I filled up the tank it started leaking gas out of the hose that comes out of the top of the tank. What is this hose for? Why would there be a hose on the top of the tank since the gas comes out of the bottom? Is it to let air in maybe? If so why was is leaking gas right after a fill up? I ended up pushing it home, by the time I got home the gas leak had stopped but it still worries me a lot to have volatile fluids leaking from my scoot. The top hose from the tank is there to vent pressure and allow air to displace the emptying gas. If a substantial amount come out from the top hose after fueling, it sounds like you over filled your tank. To solve the problem try not to over fuel the tank. As for the hose, some models have it connecting to a canister that possible cleans the vapors. I just have the hose venting to the atmosphere with a fuel filter on the end to prevent dust from entering the tank. It sits lower than the picture attached below. I moved it for better visibility. i.imgur.com/yqrV5JB.jpg |
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