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Post by dickyh on Oct 17, 2015 13:49:23 GMT -5
So my new engine with a new stator is in and running good. charging 13v at idle and 14 plus at about 3500rpm. i think I am a little low because the fuel injection is pulling some volts off the top, but not sure.
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Post by dickyh on Oct 17, 2015 13:47:03 GMT -5
UPDATE - Went with the short axle for now. New engine is in and runs great! The beauty of the fuel injection is that it pretty much tunes itself. had to adjust the idle and that's about it.
Next week i'll probably start pulling the other apart and see what was making that horrific noise.
Honestly, I can't tell that this is a 150cc engine VS my old 168.9cc
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Post by dickyh on Oct 16, 2015 21:02:54 GMT -5
So, I got my new engine and switched the stator to 11 pole. put my dr. pully weights and variator in and dropped the old engine- took the rear tire and swing arm off and then it hit me...
Tomorrow, I was going to put the new engine in... Well guess what. the new engine has a short axle and my old has a long. i have duel shocks on the back, one that attaches to the swing arm and now the swing arm won't fit on the new axle which is about 4 inches shorter...
Is this the norm for short case engines? I am so confused at this point... the back end is only held up by one shock? or am I totally missing something here?
how difficult would it be to switch the axles and will it even fit?
should I even bother and just take the other shock off? I just want to get this back on the road and be done with it...
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Post by dickyh on Oct 12, 2015 5:19:21 GMT -5
K, cool take some pics of the failed parts please. The Crank Bearings are Pressed on the Multi Piece Crank. This can be all pressed apart by a competent Crank shop as it will need to be trued correctly know body is doing this due the Low Cost of a Complete Crankshaft OE or Stroker. Pics coming up    Will do on the pics. As for the bearings, what I really meant was to change out the CS and not the bearings. It may be a while till I get to it as once I get the new engine in, I'm taking a break as I've stressed out way too much on all of this. A VERY expensive lesson learned on setting the correct valve lash. who knew a simple mistake could cause so many problems... |
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Post by dickyh on Oct 11, 2015 13:02:18 GMT -5
so I found a local mechanic and had him listen to the scooter and he said it was probably the crank shaft bearings... I had thought about that and looked at vids detailing how to change them and it was a bit intimidating and the engine had to come out anyway. So I'm still putting in my new engine (coming tomorrow) and when i have a chance, I'll pull the other apart and change the bearings and may buy a used scoot that doesn't run and pop the engine in it so I'll have a backup
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Post by dickyh on Oct 11, 2015 9:51:08 GMT -5
No matching issues, no. Just connect the 3 yellow wires from the stator to the 3 yellow wires on the regulator, in no particular order. If you have an 11 pole stator, it should charge at about 14.5v at 3000 RPM. The broken wire on your stator has ruined the charging portion of it. It has a separate coil for the spark, so that is why your scoot is still running. Helpful Hint: Put the fan on the flywheel before installing it, and make sure the bolts holding the fan on do not stick out more than a mm on the inside of the flywheel, or it will chew up the stator. Also, make sure nothing metal gets stuck inside the flywheel, as it is a magnet. I have seen both of those issues chew up stators. Thanks! Was sweating have to figur out what yellow went to the other. |
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Post by dickyh on Oct 11, 2015 9:23:53 GMT -5
The broken wire on your stator is the problem, yes. You need to order a new stator, and install it. As far as you changing the connectors: As long as you have the 3 yellow wires from the stator connected to the 3 yellow wires on the regulator, then you are good to go. Replace the stator, and ride safely. so for the yellow wires there are no matching issues? i.e. any yellow to any yellow? |
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Post by dickyh on Oct 10, 2015 15:11:10 GMT -5
so this morning I topped off the battery. It read 12.5V Went to work and back 15 miles round trip, the battery read 11.97V when I got home Hooked up the volt meter to start the scooter, voltage dropped to 10.16v when starting ok lets try this, take the battery out of the scooter ( keep it out of the scooter) give it a full slow charge. Then measure the voltage (do not put it back into the scooter) let it rest several hours (6-10). Then recheck the voltage and tell us what you have. John so I got a new battery as it seems one of the cells were dying and charged the new battery and put it in. there was no significant increase in output. (about 12.4 at idle and 12.7 at 3000rpm) I've tried to learn how to diagnose the regulator and stator using a volt meter but it is all foreign to me... I checked the wires and connections on the regulator and the stator and all its fine. So I pulled the stator and looked to see if a wire was pinched or something and that's when I noticed that one of the coils had a broken winding- one of the copper wires was broken. this is a brand new stator and couldn't believe it when I saw it. I'm assuming this is what my problem is or is it? On another note... when I got a new regulator with the new stator it had 2 female plugs which my other had one male and one female, so I retrofitted the plug with the 3 yellow wires and had hooked it together. Now with all of this I am doubting myself if I have hooked those up right... is there a way to tell with a volt meter if in fact I have these hooked up correctly? the other plug has a green, red and red/black which matched up exactly so I know those are correct. And I also know that one of the yellow wires goes to the enricher (or so I've read) and I don't use that plug as I have fuel injection. My headlight works so I know at least one of the yellow wires are correct. Basic electrical I understand - positive to positive and and so forth but this thing has me baffled. |
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Post by dickyh on Oct 9, 2015 11:36:49 GMT -5
why would it take serious modifications? the case is just longer. that's it. From what I can see the rear connections are different as well. but its a moot point, I've already got the 150cc short case coming |
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Post by dickyh on Oct 8, 2015 17:30:41 GMT -5
1 just bought a 150cc short case engine. I wouldn't imagine I could put a long case on without some serious modifications???
my point was that I couldnt find a 168.9cc in a short case so I downgraded to 150cc
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Post by dickyh on Oct 8, 2015 17:26:05 GMT -5
so this morning I topped off the battery. It read 12.5V
Went to work and back 15 miles round trip, the battery read 11.97V when I got home
Hooked up the volt meter to start the scooter, voltage dropped to 10.16v when starting
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Post by dickyh on Oct 8, 2015 11:56:59 GMT -5
Thanks Will Try that tonight... So just to give you a little more details. A good battery will not drop below 9v. All my good batteries read between 12 and 13 volts without load and between 9 and 10 volts under the load of the starter motor. I have a bad battery that reads 11 without load and between 6 and 7 volts while under load and will not turn an engine over but will work for horn and lights and seems to be okay unless you use the starter. Pretty sure you need above 9v under load just like with a car for the starter motor and everything to work properly. so what should a fully charged battery read? I've read so many things. between 12.5 to 13.4 |
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Post by dickyh on Oct 7, 2015 11:34:48 GMT -5
This is a long case engine, I need a short case.... |
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Post by dickyh on Oct 7, 2015 9:52:42 GMT -5
Then are you absolutely sure the battery is good? Charge the battery then put your meter on it and attempt to start your scooter. On a bad battery the voltage will drop a LOT, like more than half, while using the electric starter. Thanks Will Try that tonight... |
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Post by dickyh on Oct 7, 2015 7:47:09 GMT -5
The wires, have you checked the wires? I know from experience they can visually look good but on the inside of the insulation be all fried and beaten up. Find a nice quiet time of the day, or a quiet room, and try and move the wires around in your hands. If you hear crinkling sort of like a very small or tiny plastic bag contained in the wires, and/or feel what seems like the wires scraping and breaking inside the insulation then they are fried and will not be able to carry the full charge through the wires. Sometimes you may also notice the copper ends of the wires being brown instead of copper colored. I have checked and double checked every single wire...all seems to be fine. I have even gone to the extent of replacing the connectors. Still no Joy. |
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