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Post by dickyh on Nov 2, 2015 12:16:56 GMT -5
thats very nice of them to stand up and send you a new one,,,,,the mark of a good company yes, i agree... technically it is under warranty. if i had to buy a new one i would have probably opted to put on a carb. |
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Post by dickyh on Nov 2, 2015 6:26:46 GMT -5
after spending the entire weekend trying to figure out the problem, ecotrons replied to my sending them data and it appears the ECU is bad and they are sending out a new one as they said it isnt collecting IAC, ECT or battery voltage readings.
I was about ready to pull the fuel injection off and put on a carb. so frustrating. just put on a new engine and now this... Always something.
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Post by dickyh on Oct 31, 2015 8:48:31 GMT -5
spark plug may be on it's way out too,,i've had maddening problems with them,,,and fairly new ones too,,,look great spark on the engine fine ,,,changed them problem went away brand new plug as well |
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Post by dickyh on Oct 31, 2015 8:44:35 GMT -5
drain the tank fill it with fresh,,,,put in an ounce or two of drygas,,,auto parts stores sell it,,,very common problem where water gets in the tank either by real heavy dew or riding/driving in the rain alot,,,i also would check the battery and all ground strap mounting points,,,i think its electrical,,,and the low rpm vibrations are moving something so it stalls i've checked all electrical all is fine. I dont want to drain the tank if i dont have to... how to tell if there is actually water in the tank??? |
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Post by dickyh on Oct 31, 2015 8:27:15 GMT -5
OK, So I'm totally stumped... I've checked everything I know and still having the same problem. air flow doesn't work or works temporally... changed the coil - pulled the entire fuel injection system apart and checked everything and put back together.no luck. still bogs and sputters on throttle and wants to die after releasing the throttle.
I recorded some data and sent to ecotrons, so hopefully they can give some insight.
One other questions is - water in the fuel? how do you tell and would this be causing the problems? and how to fix it?
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Post by dickyh on Oct 31, 2015 6:48:50 GMT -5
well, the exhaust issue didn't seem to cure the problem.
I've put on a new fuel filter, rechecked everything for leaks and it didn't help. just before I called it a night I pulled the boot off of the spark plug and it is very rusted inside, to the extent there was a spring inside that disintegrated in my hand. It is a so-called performance coil and I have the stock as a back up so I'm going to change it this morning and see if it fixes the issue.
on another note... I pulled the exhaust off and it was visibly leaking as it had black soot around the outside of the hole. so I'm sure this was part of the problem. I changed the gasket and put on a new one.
I also increased the air mixture on the throttle body increasing the RPMS to about 1900 and it seems to help, but was getting late and didn't focus too much on it, so I'll address this as well. My question is that if it is too high and is this an issue from something else?
and back to the exhaust... I have a question about it as it is a performance exhaust... does it need more air in the fuel mixture since it is so much bigger than the stock one? Since, I've put this on about 8 months ago, the scoot intermittently back-fires and pops on deceleration from mid throttle.
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Post by dickyh on Oct 30, 2015 16:41:24 GMT -5
Now I think that maybe my exhaust is the culprit... ever since i've put a performance exhaust on this scoot, it seems to come loose at the engine and causes this issue and some backfiring. What I don't understand however, and am hoping someone can fill me in is as to why this causes the issue. it seems that if I remove the exhaust pipe and re-seat it is fine until it comes loose again.
since this is EXHAUST how is it that it affects performance??? I could understand if I had an air leak on the intake but am confused... I'm not an engine guy so I'm not that well versed on it...
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Post by dickyh on Oct 29, 2015 19:21:06 GMT -5
I have a good filter on there, but honestly it's been about 6 months since I've changed it.
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Post by dickyh on Oct 29, 2015 18:56:46 GMT -5
So as many of you know I put a new engine in my scoot recently and it has a fuel injection system (ecotrons) on it.
The last few days I've been getting sputtering on acceleration and once in a while when moving up in traffic, with little to no throttle and stopping the engine will die. but it will restart no problem.
up until now it was only on initial throttle and it would run fine.
It idles fine at about 1700rpm, but sometimes it goes right to 1700 and other times it will start at about 800 rpm and gradually climb up within about 10 seconds.
I live in Florida and we have ethanol in the gas 10% and I always use premium gas and name brands.
Today it got particularly bad after driving to work this morning (ran fine but the roads were wet after a heavy rain). On the way home it would run but sputtered on throttle from every stop light and dying more than usual.
Up until now I have had no problems with the fuel injection, so I am stumped as to what might be going on and of course no mechanic around to service the fuel injection, so like with everything else, I am left to my own devices...
I've read plenty about sputtering and most of what I read pertains to carburetors being dirty, jetting issues and so on (generally fuel issues)... Is it possible that the injector is dirty?
Any input would be greatly appreciated. and as always thanks for your time.
On another note, I've been burning more gas than normal... Related?
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161qmk
by: dickyh - Oct 19, 2015 19:35:44 GMT -5
Post by dickyh on Oct 19, 2015 19:35:44 GMT -5
I just did the same and the T is not correct. it's more like the second line under it. And if you have a one piece rocker assembly like me, it has two holes on one side and two on the other with lines underneath. and mine had 2 letters (can't remember what they were) but those face up Parallel to the head as the cam sprocket bolts on to the side unless you did a modified head with a generic type camshaft and rocker assembly.
You can check out my long thread "help! valve issues which covered putting on a new head and piston.
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Post by dickyh on Oct 19, 2015 16:39:11 GMT -5
pistonguy got a question regarding engine break-in... what do you recommend? I know to change the oil ALOT but what about seating the rings and so on? read so many topics on this, but you seem to have a handle on these engines and would prefer to hear what you have to say... Thanks! Thanks for asking, Alott of this bs and that bs based on ol feller 40+ year ago. Ill tell and show ya the why and how. Old barbaric stone hones were used with a finish grit of 280 to maybe 400 and this leaves a Finished Peak similar to a Tip on a Pyramid. upon break in with those old Nodular Iron Rings you can see we have to Knock the Tops of those Peaks off During Break in, kinda tougher on rings and Final Cylinder Sizing and Longevity. These Modern Cylinders are Mostly Finished wit a Diamond Plateau Hone, This Hone Finishes at 600 Grit and The Peak is Knocked off to a Finished Plateau, Darn Near Ready to Race and Much Better Idiot Proofing Break In. Here are Two 61mm Cylinders one Iron Bore and the other Plated Bore (The Plate Bore MUST be Diamond Finished or touched up) kinda hard getting a good pic for ya.  ..   Here some Piston Skirt Finishes to look at, Very fine turned, These are ready to run. Side note 61mm NCY Piston on Right, NCY Cut the Skirt off with a SAW so it would clear Max Stroker applications This NCY 61MM is JUNK. Piston on Left is Taida 61mm Forging with a Slipper Style Skirt. This Piston will provide Much More Stability and Resulting in Much better Ring Seal  Your going to have to Work Hard to Hurt this stuff running in its bath of oil. There really no jageed edges, flashing garbage to wear off. Convectional Oil for Break in, Its Cooler now. Warm up the New Top End. Engine Load is the Main thing,(heat Cycling) Vary Engine Load like if your doing sprints on a bicycle. Up Hill loads are great back off Repeat, Just keep varying Engine Load and Not Be afraid. Varying Load is How a Engine is broke in on a Dyno. Here is a good example of a decent 150cc psi test.(mine) this was a No Mercy Break. 
ask anything ya need to know of the machining, tooling, materials. Thanks! I want to push it a bit, but not too hard at first. It's hard to sprint as you say on these congested roads but, I try and push it, then let off and so on... |
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Post by dickyh on Oct 19, 2015 5:55:48 GMT -5
pistonguy got a question regarding engine break-in... what do you recommend? I know to change the oil ALOT but what about seating the rings and so on? read so many topics on this, but you seem to have a handle on these engines and would prefer to hear what you have to say... Thanks!
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Post by dickyh on Oct 18, 2015 15:27:41 GMT -5
Yeah, I would definitely just change the crankshaft on that old engine. I just did it. Put the crank in the freezer, and then heat the case with a torch, and the crank will go right in. Don't force it! Go with the cold to shrink the crank, and the heat to expand the case. You can use this method. Correctly it will Drop right in. Be Careful!! that the crank does not "dumb" upon seating, if it bumb's up +.00 your in trouble as the temps equalize Faster than a Hobo on a Ham Sandwich and sets in place , have it fixtured and weights ready to go. Also it Will Sweat and Rust the Bearings and Races if you Don't Spray it down Immediately with a moisture dispersant like wd-40. I have and use this method, current Team Green tech's No longer use mainly from the Sweating/Rust issue.    i watched a vid of a guy doing this with the heating and freezing. honestly it is a bit intimidating for me. so what is or is there an alternative to this method? Will probably start pulling the old engine apart, bit by bit this week and trying to track down the issue that was making all of the noise. I'll take and post plenty of pics so more experienced eyes can give their input and advice. Sure am learning a lot from this experience, not so sure it was a welcome one, but none the less an education. I'm ready to quit my job and become a scooter mechanic -- yeah and then I woke up LOL. will keep all posted with pics and progress AND I can't thank all of you enough for helping get through this. the new engine works like a charm and so much easier to take out and put in than I had imagined... was so sweating it, but a cinch. just had to triple check everything after it was in, cause I was scared as all get out to start er up... and voila! not a hitch... she is running great |
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Post by dickyh on Oct 18, 2015 6:10:22 GMT -5
13v charging and 14v at RPMs sounds perfect. That's right where you want it. every vid I've watched shows much higher output jumps. but it seems to be doing it's job, so I'm happy |
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Post by dickyh on Oct 18, 2015 6:06:00 GMT -5
Your new 150cc engine is fuel injected??? I put fuel injection on the scoot when I got it a year ago as I didn't want to deal with a carburetor. Love the fuel injection! my only complaint is that there are so many wires that take up a lot of space and was a nightmare to get routed and secure so it doesn't look like a rats nest. |
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