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Post by jc on Jun 27, 2016 12:23:07 GMT -5
Used a wrong fitting gasket out of the gasket kit for this engine. Modified it to fit and got evrything back together. Runs good! Its nice to be back commuting on the scooter! YAY!
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Post by jc on Jun 8, 2016 19:20:50 GMT -5
Can't find a head gasket.
Next step- Has anyone had a copper headgasket cut from an existing used head gasket? Preferably a company in rhe U.S., in Texas would be even better!
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Post by jc on May 23, 2016 15:14:32 GMT -5
Head gasket seems to have a leak as the oil turns dark in 5-10 miles and oil specks in the coolant tank.
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Post by jc on May 22, 2016 10:04:11 GMT -5
Ah yes. That reminded me about the head gasket that I had to reuse. I ordered 3 different gasket sets trying to get the right haped gasket with no luck. So I slathered the used gasket with sealant.
I guess the gasket was in too bad a shape. I cut all the other gaskets on the engine but this one is metal.
It is a metal gasket with rubberized feeling coating on it. Has anyone cut a gasket like this or used regular paper type gasket successfully?
Thanks kevinharrell
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Post by jc on May 21, 2016 20:25:37 GMT -5
Rebuilt 150cc cfmoto watercooled engine- - replaced crankshaft - replaced oil pump and oil pump chain
All oil passages are clear. Nothing appeared to be unusual, rubbing when engine cases were sealed up. New oil added. 5 mile test ride normal power nothing unusual. drained oil, it came out greenish. Filled with new golden colored oil and went on 30 mile ride and nothing unusual. drained oil and same greenish dark color. compression is good. coolant is not overheating. No odd noises.
Does anyone have an idea of whats going on or experienced this?
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Post by jc on May 21, 2016 11:52:17 GMT -5
scrappydogscooters.com partsforscooters.com partsforchinesescooters.com
google it# There are many more parts sites for that generic gy6 engine.
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Post by jc on May 18, 2016 19:15:42 GMT -5
Ok. First venture on to the highway. Engine response is as it should be. Pulled right up to 60mph.
The cvt has 11g weights which put the shift point at 7krpm. Im theorizing that 11k miles of this tuning is what caused the rod bearing and oil pump failure. I think I should detune itit down to 4500 or 5000 rpm shift point to give the engine longer life.
What weight do ya'll think will lower the shift point to 5000 rpm?
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Post by jc on May 17, 2016 23:40:41 GMT -5
You must submit to our power so we can control you! We are here to "ENFORCE" the Peace! We will intimidate, threaten and steal from you until you are subjugated!
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Post by jc on May 15, 2016 16:40:47 GMT -5
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Post by jc on May 15, 2016 0:07:05 GMT -5
Finally got the rotor puller. Yup, key was sheared. Couldn't find metric key stock here in Bastrop so I macgyvered the sheared key by flipping it over, filing it to fit and got everything back together.
She fired right up and idled!
Tomorrow I will put the muffler on and let her warm up and get the rear wheel back together for a test drive.
YAAY!
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Post by jc on May 8, 2016 22:11:41 GMT -5
In my opinion, one of the best that CFMOTO ever made. They were discontinued in favor of the FI scoots. I bought a crap load when they were offered to dealers at $500. Got any left?
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Post by jc on May 8, 2016 14:43:45 GMT -5
Definitely a good learning experience! ?
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Post by jc on May 8, 2016 0:17:52 GMT -5
It appears the rotor may have sheared the key and spun on the crank. Waiting for the special rotor puller tool to get it off and fix.
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Post by jc on May 8, 2016 0:09:17 GMT -5
It's a nice scooter but before you buy find out where you can source CFMoto parts for that specific bike, it may be impossible. www.alpha-sports.com/cfmoto_parts.htmI wpuld love to get my hands on that just to transplant it into my cpi!. I'm currently rebuilding the stock motor due to rod bearing coming apart.
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