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Steppin' up
by: urbanmadness - Apr 19, 2015 12:56:16 GMT -5
Post by urbanmadness on Apr 19, 2015 12:56:16 GMT -5
I finally got my first 'real' bike.  1983 Honda GL650 'Silverwing' Interstate. (not mine, but identical right down to the color and baggage arrangement) 60 HP, 674cc shaft drive transverse v-twin.  17K miles and two owners...one brother inherited it from the other. $850 To do: Front brake service (fluid flush) Fresh rubber (not so much worn out as 'old') De-haze the windshield Remove the throttle lock Some things to add to your list.... Lube the splines... research it, since you are changing the rear tire. Since you are doing the brake work, consider a new set of pads, they are cheap, rotors, not so much, if you can find them. Inspect your fork seals and rear shocks. Inspect your wheel bearings (again, since you changing your tires).... Be prepared to have the carbs done. Honda carbs don't like to sit. If your carbs work well, take care of them. Use fuel stabilizer if the bike sits, etc. Dose the fuel with sea foam. CHANGE THAT FUEL FILTER. And if you are going to tackle the carbs yourself, do not mix parts between the two. If you change needle and seats on the float valves, HONDA OEM ONLY!!!! Aftermarket tends to leak. Hold off on removing the throttle lock.... You have a highway bike, now. Take a pic of it, if its the vista cruse lock (most popular aftermarket lock for honda's), its a very good lock. It locks the throttle down in such a way, that in the event of an emergency, you can twist the throttle back closed. As far as windshields... what year is it? I may have an extra that will fit. I believe these used the same faring as the gl1100 (I ride a '82 gl1100 goldwing aspencade), I'll give it to you for shipping but let me research it first to make sure the farings are the same... If the farings are the same, then you can get speaker enclosures that mount for it (honda speaker enclosures for 4" speakers), then you just put a little blue tooth deck in the left faring pocket and then you got tunes baby! These are awesome bikes, and if the carbs are good shape, very dependable bikes. |
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Steppin' up
by: urbanmadness - Apr 19, 2015 12:33:32 GMT -5
Post by urbanmadness on Apr 19, 2015 12:33:32 GMT -5
Nice ride. I see CX 500 v-twins around here occasionally, but I think they were all 500cc. Nice find. The had some 650's too. Congrats on the new bike. |
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 19, 2015 12:25:18 GMT -5
I can tell you what happened...... most likey... One of two things...... One, the belt wasn't down in the clutch far enough when you put the drive face back on, so when you tightened the variator nut, it snugged up against the belt and not the dowel meaning the variator wasn't tight. It might of felt tight, but it wasn't. Two, One of the weights flipped in the variator when the belt broke, or when you were putting it back together. Net results, same thing. The variator nut wasn't tight. Might of felt tight, but it wasn't. Two is probably what happened in your case. Only because you described a rattle. That is a symptom of an out of position weight. Not to mention the lack of top speed, and general misbehaving of the scooter. Good thinking , that def is a possibility. If a slider was out of place , the drive face would be tight at takeoff but as the variator closes the drive face would begin to wobble due to the pressure of the belt and the belt being further up the variator and drive face. I'm a little stumped about why the scoot would suddenly shut down ? He still may have a fuel issue . One thing at a time. Lets get the variator worked out, then we will go after the fuel issue. These bikes are a balancing act. If you work it harder because the variator is acting up, a fuel problem arises that would not normally be there. He might be working it WOT and loosing vacuum to the petcock for example but until that variator is sorted, and it's somewhat running, we can't fix the other issue. It might even be a CDI that's bad. By the way, is he using sliders or rollers? and are the guides in good shape (thought just hit me) |
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 19, 2015 12:14:49 GMT -5
Thanks urbanmadness. I squeeze the belt to retract the clutch and use an impact wrench so I thought I was doing it right. Is there anything more I can do in the future so I don't repeat this? Always take the variator apart when you are doing a belt change. Inspect the weights (look for flat spots that indicate wear) then when you put it back on, make sure you hold the back plate and the variator together so nothing shifts when you put it back together. It needs to be slid all the way back on the crank shaft. Once you do that, the weights and everything should stay in position while you put the belt on. If you hear a jingle, jangle anytime you are working with it, take that variator off again, and check the weight positions. Then get that belt down in the rear pulley as far as you can get it to go. The goal is to have a bit of slack around the front pulley (some space between the slide dowel and the belt so it's not tight, this will give the driven face enough room to go on completely), then put the drive face on (it should go on all the way and back up against the slide dowel), then impact the nut down. Lubing and cleaning everything that needs lube, goes without saying. You can guess how I know this... LOL I did the same exact thing you did. I was lucky and didn't hurt the crank. With me, it was the belt pushed the driven plat out just enough so that the nut didn't get tight. |
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 19, 2015 12:02:12 GMT -5
maybe the clips that hold the piston pin in place? John you did concern me for a split second... but these pieces are too thin/small. i'm starting to suspect it's a foreign object dropped in the engine from the factory. No... wrong shape, and the pieces are too long and I don't think the piston will go down far enough on these engines to have the wrist pin exposed to the sump (could be wrong) |
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 19, 2015 11:59:03 GMT -5
Those pieces are circular, the pieces he found are rectangular, just like the probe clip inside the performance coil/boot sold by many dealers, including Scrappy's where I bought mine. Yeah. I was just thinking it's the only internal part the looks even remotely like the pieces in his sump. The good news is, just clean it out, put some fresh oil in and go about your business. It's still been an interesting puzzle to try to figure out. |
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 18, 2015 18:46:00 GMT -5
I can tell you what happened...... most likey...
One of two things......
One, the belt wasn't down in the clutch far enough when you put the drive face back on, so when you tightened the variator nut, it snugged up against the belt and not the dowel meaning the variator wasn't tight. It might of felt tight, but it wasn't.
Two,
One of the weights flipped in the variator when the belt broke, or when you were putting it back together. Net results, same thing. The variator nut wasn't tight. Might of felt tight, but it wasn't.
Two is probably what happened in your case. Only because you described a rattle. That is a symptom of an out of position weight. Not to mention the lack of top speed, and general misbehaving of the scooter.
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 18, 2015 18:33:37 GMT -5
Sounds like the float is set too high... Or the needle and seat are bad, or dirty. The needle should be able to handle the increased pressure without issue as long as it's not ridiculously high and these vacuum driven pumps don't generate that kind of pressure.
I'd change back to the stock carb (for diagnosis purposes) and see if it's still flooding out. I bet you it won't.
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 18, 2015 18:21:27 GMT -5
Valve seal spring is the only thing close to looking like those pics.... Look at this valve seal... see the band that runs around it? That's the only engine part I know of that looks even close to what those metal bits look like.  |
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 17, 2015 14:54:38 GMT -5
a bad pet cock can cause a few problems. It could be sucking fuel thru a vacuum line. Change it, see what happens.
As for the black gear oil? I'd bet it's the grease...
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 16, 2015 15:33:17 GMT -5
I can't see water putting a hurt on a valve.
I can, however, see it messing with the carb. Have you cleaned it? Idle passage is probably partially plugged. I'd also check for vacuum leaks at the manifold and around where the carb seals to the manifold. All your vacuum lines in good shape?
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 16, 2015 14:20:25 GMT -5
Again, I'm thinking valve seal. some have both a band (or clip) and a spring.
It wouldn't be unheard of if it a piece of junk got in it at the factory (rare factory option?)
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 16, 2015 14:11:14 GMT -5
It's the same with Motorcycle's in general. Even my '82 goldwing is off.
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Post by urbanmadness on Apr 16, 2015 11:36:19 GMT -5
Ok... think I figured it out. I think you have a valve seal that came apart.
Some of the valve seals have a spring that wraps around them some don't. Some have a metal band that wraps around them, and some don't. Some have both. Depends on how the seal is made and it differs from manufacture. Do a google image search on "gy6 valve seal".
I think it came apart. and the band, probably made it's way into the crank case thru the cam cavity then down into the sump.
Is it burning oil?
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Please help!
by: urbanmadness - Apr 16, 2015 11:29:18 GMT -5
Post by urbanmadness on Apr 16, 2015 11:29:18 GMT -5
Ok, a few things to look at... Did you get all the pieces cleaned out of the clutch? When a belt grenades, cords and
chunks get twisted, tangled and wound around all over the place.
Check, the weights are in the variator correctly. Sometimes they tumble when you loose a belt.
Did you purchase the correct belt for your bike?
When you put the new belt in, I usually put it in the clutch first, give a good tug to get the belt into that clutch pully so that there is a little slack when you slip it over the variator. That way, when you tighten it down, the belt is already up the groove a little and not at the bottom of the groove. It makes it much easier to get the variator face on all the way before you tighten the nut.
My money is on a flipped weight in the variator.
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