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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 17, 2013 16:20:37 GMT -5
It does sound like it's over carberated more then anything else.
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 16, 2013 21:53:43 GMT -5
Start with checking the easy stuff. Do you have enough slack in your throttle cable? Also make sure the carb is seated completely into the intake boot. You will have to adjust the A/F mix after that.
Fuel gauge is probably a fuel sending unit.
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 16, 2013 9:09:08 GMT -5
The professor might be more macho... but I like Sheldon way better!
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 15, 2013 1:22:05 GMT -5
Ok, that looks like it's a gear box leak.... does the oil smell like rotton eggs?
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 15, 2013 0:43:32 GMT -5
The reason I'm pointing to a tight throttle cable is he is saying that the idle speed screw isn't lowering the idle. what i meant was i can lower the idle until the engine dies and the tire will still rotate very slowly. it wasn't like that on my old clutch. Time to pull the CVT cover. It sounds like maybe one of the weights in the CVT might be hung up. The thing is, it shouldn't be turning the rear wheel if the idle is set correctly all things considered. Make sure the belt is all the way down in the front pulley. The clutch might have a shoe hanging up as well. OR How well does it idle... does it seem to be idling too fast, and when you turn it down, it just dies all at once? If it dies all at once when you turn down the idle screw, then it may be time for a valve adjustment or you have a vacuum leak. |
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 14, 2013 12:25:15 GMT -5
The reason I'm pointing to a tight throttle cable is he is saying that the idle speed screw isn't lowering the idle.
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 13, 2013 21:08:00 GMT -5
The high idle is what is taking out the clutch... You need to fix that first, or it will just keep glazing clutches. And it won't matter if it's a high performance clutch. On a stock 50 or 150 bike, it's very rare you have to change the clutch. My clutch on my 150 has lasted 7k so far with very little wear and I'm a heavy rider and I ride pretty hard.
If you can't get the idle down, make sure your Throttle cable is not too tight. You should have a small amount of "free play" when you turn the throttle.
As for sanding the pads, In my experience that is always a temporary fix. The glazing is caused by excessive heat. The excessive heat tends to warp the clutch bell. Once they get "grabby", sanding the clutch pads seems to help but only for a short while.
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 13, 2013 16:08:45 GMT -5
the other thing to check, is the Idle speed. If it's too high, it will partially engage the clutch, and glaze it...
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 12, 2013 20:11:41 GMT -5
yeah, fresh fuel, clean the carb... and it should run... if it don't after that, then it's time to check for spark and compression.
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 12, 2013 20:08:09 GMT -5
On the lance, you will take off the seat, then take out the seat pan.... from there, you take off the rack, and work from the back, towards the front. If you start with cleaning the carb, all you have to do, is take off the seat and remove the seat pan...
Then you can access the carb. You will need to take if off, find a nice clean place to work, remove the float bowl (the bottom of the carb), you will see two brass screw looking things. Those are the jets. There are two. One will look like just a short little thing, that's the main jet. The long one is the pilot jet. Run aerosol carb cleaner thru both of the jets, until you can see light in all their passages. Next take the straw on the carb cleaner and squirt it down where the jets go in the carb.... Put it back together and back on the scoot. I would also suggest draining the fuel tank and running fresh. Any time gas sits in these bikes, it turns to varnish and gums everything up.
Just take your time, you will do fine...
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 12, 2013 14:33:30 GMT -5
since it's been sitting, the carb probably needs to be cleaned. I doubt it's the valves although I'm sure it could use a valve adjustment.... These bikes almost always need valve adjustments.
Other things that make them hard to start are vacuum leaks. Check and make sure you don't have cracked vacuum hoses.
here's a video on spark plug placement.
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 12, 2013 14:28:42 GMT -5
I just like the feel of this forum better then the other ones I've looked into. I am a member of only this forum. I don't have the time to looks at more then one, so I chose this one, mostly because of JR and Ally and the other regulars that post here. I just like the vibe. We really don't even have that many crazy flamewars here.
I try to buy from the forum vendors when I can. I've learned so much from the forum and it's made working on these chinese bikes enjoyable.
You guys have earned those numbers.
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 12, 2013 2:06:34 GMT -5
Well, I braved the cold and finished taking the plastics off the bike tonight. I'm ready to start sanding and painting. New brake switches arrived today and I will probably install them tomorrow. The stereo and starter solenoid are due friday. Here is the Pile of parts  The front end....   |
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 12, 2013 0:24:05 GMT -5
Here it has been cold... in the 20's.... not cold for some, but for me... it's way too cold... It's been even too cold to work in the garage on the 250.
What can I say? I'm a California person, and Cold just isn't my thing!
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 12, 2013 0:22:16 GMT -5
I should of said, MY 150 would handle it, and MY 250 wouldn't... sorry about any confusion... I don't know about the Majesty.... I would think it would be able to, but I don't know what the stator can do on those bikes.
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