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Post by backroadbaron on Nov 24, 2017 6:50:02 GMT -5
Fuel tank isn't venting properly,,or there's something interrupting fuel flow,and the fuel delivery isn't keeping up with engine demand `Thanks for info cyborg. Fuel venting is just the gas cap, no? should I replace fuel filter? replace lines? carburetor replacement? what order of system checks and balances should I follow in relation to the fuel delivery? |
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Post by backroadbaron on Nov 4, 2017 5:39:55 GMT -5
Thanks for the help pistonguy. I checked the valve gaps -intake was at .009 and exhaust was screwed tight I could not get any measurement. I adjusted intake to .003 and exhaust to .005. Took out for a ride and still have same power loss at WOT. It's like it loses compression at WOT for extended periods. If I'm cruising at 5000rpms, it never happens. but if I'm at 7000 for a minute it will lose power. Any other thoughts what is causing my power loss?
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Post by backroadbaron on Nov 2, 2017 12:45:00 GMT -5
Hmm, WOT power loss, back off the throttle and she's better, When was the last time you adjusted the Valve Lash? I've never adjusted the Valve Lash. I'm not exactly sure what that is? This engine has approx. 5000 miles on it. could you share a link on how that is done? |
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Post by backroadbaron on Nov 2, 2017 5:25:21 GMT -5
Separately, I have noticed brief power loss usually during WOT; unsure why? belt slipping? It 's only for a second, then picks up again-riding on level ground. Im hoping that goes away, but it has happened sporadically each time I ride (3 days on 842 belt as of this post) Maybe I should be starting a new thread here but this power loss problem does not seem to be belt related, and is beginning to happen more consistently. When I am riding and usually at WOT around 7000-7500 rpms, the motor briefly loses power. Rpms drop down to 6000. Power comes back after a second or two but is sort of sporadic unless I reduce the throttle. If I am riding at 5000rpms, I never seem to have this problem. Is this a sign of engine failure? Besides changing the belt and rollers, the only other thing I've done is changed the oil since this started occurring. What are some of causes of this? Thanks for your help |
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Post by backroadbaron on Oct 29, 2017 12:25:01 GMT -5
Here's an update and some observations: I purchased both the 835 and 842 premium Gates belts. Both belts fit the long case engine scooter. Each belt has its pros and cons:
835 pros: good going up hills, has more power.
835 cons: higher rpm's overall at lower speeds; top speed lower, probably worse gas mileage
842 pros: lower rpms: at WOT, Higher top speed; better gas mileage
842 con: Big hills. My scooter labors hard to get up them. Kind of like being in 10th gear on a 10 speed bicycle going up hill.
Separately, I have noticed brief power loss usually during WOT; unsure why? belt slipping? It 's only for a second, then picks up again-riding on level ground. Im hoping that goes away, but it has happened sporadically each time I ride (3 days on 842 belt as of this post)
In the end, I've decided to use 842 belt going forward. I ride about 30 miles a day round trip. Its nice to not be redlining as often. It has to be less stress on the motor as well. Maybe I can put some lighter rollers on to help me on the hills? If I figure out the brief power loss issue, I will update this post. Thank you for everyone's help!
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Post by backroadbaron on Oct 19, 2017 8:49:19 GMT -5
842-20-30 belt is for 12" wheels
does that mean the 835-20-30 is for 13" wheels?
Thanks for the help!
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Post by backroadbaron on Oct 10, 2017 17:22:04 GMT -5
They are 12" wheels (120/70-12)
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Post by backroadbaron on Oct 8, 2017 10:58:09 GMT -5
I have a 2007 GY6 ZNEN 150T. I am trying to figure out the correct size belt for the scooter. The one on there just shredded to pieces so small, that there are no identifiable markings to read. I believe the CVT cover size is comparable to a "GY6 longcase". I'm guessing it is either the 835-20-30 or the 842-20-30? I am also concerned that because the belt was obliterated, could there be some other issue that caused it to fail that I should inspect? I appreciate any info. Thanks
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Post by backroadbaron on Oct 24, 2014 5:21:20 GMT -5
I took the flywheel off and swapped it out. they look the same, maybe I didn't set the flywheel completely? Seeing her spark was damn near euphoric. Trolling these boards for info has really helped out. Thanks for everyone's help!
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Post by backroadbaron on Oct 22, 2014 15:34:31 GMT -5
I replaced the stator with the one from my old engine, and hooked everything else up. Tried to start it, it cranks but it doesn't have a spark. Any suggestions? Could this be stator related? I appreciate your help
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Post by backroadbaron on Oct 16, 2014 20:03:08 GMT -5
having trouble posting the photos. got it thanks for help!
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Post by backroadbaron on Oct 16, 2014 20:00:16 GMT -5
   Hi Folks, I ordered new 150cc GY6 engine what appeared to be the same: long case; measurements all spot on. Today I began installing new engine and I notice the wiring harness coming off the engine is different than my old engine. The new engine has 3 wires attached to a smaller green 4 bay female connector. While my old engine had 4 wires. I am attempting to show you pictures of both new and old engine harness. How do I connect this engine to that harness? I also added a 3rd pic of a part that the new engine came with but I can't seem to find the similar part on my scooter. Could anyone tell me what it is, and its importance? I much appreciate any help here! thank you |
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Post by backroadbaron on Aug 18, 2014 10:18:17 GMT -5
Bet a valve keeper come loose on a high rpm float and bombed the valve into the slug top. (....you dropped a valve) Even so $100 otta get you a whole new top end kit. You wont know till you take the jug off and start splitting the cases. Once I got the jug off I can feel the crank rod for play while its still in the case.Often the jug + up is all you'll need. interesting, thanks for the info. I'm guessing I should still remove the engine for that diagnosis? Anyone familiar with any good links for engine removal? |
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Post by backroadbaron on Aug 16, 2014 7:31:34 GMT -5
Thanks for the replies. It did not run dry, only ran 600 miles since last oil change and there was still about 3/4 qt. of oil in there. I saw a few really small flakes (like grains of salt) that looked metallic. and one black piece that was also tiny, maybe 1/8" long, black, thin and rectangular in shape. I was thinking it could be a piece of piston ring? What's involved in replacing the engine? I'm not interested in getting involved with replacing the internals of this engine but might consider swapping it out with a new one. Can I do it in a day or two? Do you have any recommended sites where to purchase an engine?
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Post by backroadbaron on Aug 14, 2014 19:21:09 GMT -5
I started a thread a couple of days ago but cant reply to it so here we go. I was cruising at about 50mph when a sudden pop happened and the engine conked out immediately. Attached video shows what happens when I try to start and also view with cvt cover removed. Kickstart didn't budge to crank, even with my 230lb.+ fat
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