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Post by ghcoe on Jul 22, 2015 21:38:12 GMT -5
I would check all your electrical contacts. Battery, starter solenoid, starter, frame and engine ground. Starter sounds like it is dragging. Could be a bad starter, but best to check electrical contacts first.
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Post by ghcoe on Jul 22, 2015 21:16:01 GMT -5
The BWS 125, Zuma here, seems to be quite stable in fast corners. The step through is pretty short tight though so that may make a difference.
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new ride
by: ghcoe - Jul 19, 2015 20:46:15 GMT -5
Post by ghcoe on Jul 19, 2015 20:46:15 GMT -5
Sweet!
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Post by ghcoe on Jul 19, 2015 14:39:06 GMT -5
Well, like I said, I laugh all the way to the bank. As long as people have the perception that Chinese units are crap then they will always sell at a economical price. I think the biggest problem the Chinese brands have is little to no dealer support and a unwillingness of repair shops to work on them which builds on the bad perception. You buy a Chinese scooter, something goes wrong, you don't know how to fix it, no one is willing to work on it, now it is a Chinese piece of junk! What I don't get is that people should see the blatant price gouging that main stream brands do to their customers. My scooter is a clone of a Yamaha Zuma and a new Zuma is going for $3500.00. I can buy two more clones and still be ahead. I see this in other consumer goods too. Most of the time it is the same exact item with just a main stream logo on it and they charge 3-5 times as much for it. Shop around and save some money. Money is hard to come by and I am certainly not going to hand it out to the middle man. Just be glad Apple doesn't make scooters!  Don't get me started with Apple. Linux all the way..... |
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Post by ghcoe on Jul 19, 2015 8:05:02 GMT -5
Well, like I said, I laugh all the way to the bank. As long as people have the perception that Chinese units are crap then they will always sell at a economical price. I think the biggest problem the Chinese brands have is little to no dealer support and a unwillingness of repair shops to work on them which builds on the bad perception. You buy a Chinese scooter, something goes wrong, you don't know how to fix it, no one is willing to work on it, now it is a Chinese piece of junk!
What I don't get is that people should see the blatant price gouging that main stream brands do to their customers. My scooter is a clone of a Yamaha Zuma and a new Zuma is going for $3500.00. I can buy two more clones and still be ahead. I see this in other consumer goods too. Most of the time it is the same exact item with just a main stream logo on it and they charge 3-5 times as much for it. Shop around and save some money. Money is hard to come by and I am certainly not going to hand it out to the middle man.
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Post by ghcoe on Jul 18, 2015 23:18:29 GMT -5
And that is what keeps Chinese scooters at a economical price. I laugh all the way to the bank.
A few years back I agree, there were some really bad units coming in from China. If you took the time even then you could find some good deals. Most of those good units are the names that are still with us today. I think all the bad units dropped off in 2008-2009 era. I guess those early crappy units is what people think of today still though. But hey, remember when it was Jap crap? Do you think japan would make the things they do today if it was all true?
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Post by ghcoe on Jul 18, 2015 12:08:29 GMT -5
Sounds like the clutch is sticking or faulty since it gives a slight tug when throttled up. Sounds like the clutch is trying to engage by the slight tug sensation description, but is not able to fully grab.
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Post by ghcoe on Jul 18, 2015 9:57:51 GMT -5
Not sure if the pictures posted. Seems I had some troubles on other sites so redid the pictures here. Sorry if you have two pictures of the same thing now....
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Post by ghcoe on Jul 18, 2015 8:57:24 GMT -5
Well there is something different. Mine unlocks from the ignition switch. I can unlock the seat in the "run" position by turning farther to the right or unlock it in the "off" position by turning the key to the left. It does not really say that on the switch though. To lock the steering I have to push the key down and then left.  Interesting, and might look a bit better, i think Znen did a crap job on the trim around the lock there. Speaking of the key, mine's unique feature is that there's a cover for it, i'll try to add a pic later, but basically it is exactly what it sounds like, a built in cover for the key slot. I use that, two locks and the kill switch to keep the bike where i leave it. This key lock has a built in cover feature too. The little tab that sticks out on the right can be flipped up and a cover blocks off the key hole. The hex with a notch in it, at the 6 o'clock, position releases the block. The hex key is molded into the key handle. So the key is actually two keys in one. |
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Post by ghcoe on Jul 17, 2015 23:34:23 GMT -5
Yup, I have the same mount locations and dual shocks. What is the lock for, helmet? That unlocks the under seat storage. Well there is something different. Mine unlocks from the ignition switch. I can unlock the seat in the "run" position by turning farther to the right or unlock it in the "off" position by turning the key to the left. It does not really say that on the switch though. To lock the steering I have to push the key down and then left. |
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Post by ghcoe on Jul 17, 2015 23:28:56 GMT -5
Ok, bus station tagged.
Now lets find a old radio station.
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Post by ghcoe on Jul 17, 2015 17:06:53 GMT -5
Yup, I have the same mount locations and dual shocks. What is the lock for, helmet?
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Post by ghcoe on Jul 16, 2015 17:46:18 GMT -5
A common reason that LED's prematurely fail or fade is they are overrun with voltage. There are correct calculations that allow you to figure out at what voltage a LED or series of LED's run at. Most LED's fail early because they say they are rated for 12 volts. Vehicle regulators regulate voltage at 13.5 to 16 volts while running. If you have wired in a 12 volt LED system into the vehicle you are now overrunning the LED's while the vehicle is running. Even with the vehicle off you are still running the LED's at 12.5 volts with a full battery. For full LED life it is better to run at or under calculated voltage recommendations. LED calculator scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/led.html |
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Post by ghcoe on Jul 15, 2015 17:47:01 GMT -5
Looks like just labor rate, not shop rate. If I had to replace a cylinder I would charge for carb, intake, head, replacement too. You have to remove them to get to the cylinder and then have to replace them......Just saying! |
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Post by ghcoe on Jul 14, 2015 20:12:37 GMT -5
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