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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 12, 2015 12:59:20 GMT -5
Its coming from the solenoid.
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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 12, 2015 12:44:42 GMT -5
The wire from the stock cdi is going to the solenoid. I talked about this in my other forum a little while ago. Nobody could understand what kind of cdi it was or how it sparked. Looks like a dc cdi, but It looks to be a ac system. Also looks like the red wire was made into the cdi. I'm considering redoing the electric work. The blue cdi and my wires are a good match right? i62.tinypic.com/nbeqtl.png |
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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 12, 2015 12:23:34 GMT -5
The 4vac was coming from the red/black on the cdi. (power) I tried the negative point of the multimeter on the scoot chassis too, still said 0vdc. Would a broken dc cdi work like a ac cdi? I really need to trace all my wires, but I cant get a break with this weather and all. On the stock cdi, there is a red wire going to the starting relay. I guess for power. There is no probe on the red/black connection in the inside of the cdi. Was like this when I got it from somebody. I guess the stator was bad or something and couldnt make a voltage to the cdi so someone tried to make it work? Or, someone tried to make it so it wouldn't have a rev limit. Or the blue ac cdi I have is just DOA? i60.tinypic.com/2hgh7wm.jpgI have regular color wires on the cdi harness.? i58.tinypic.com/24cy4qt.jpg jerseyboy JR, alleyoop, Doug, JerryScript, skuttadawg, |
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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 12, 2015 11:38:15 GMT -5
Alright so I tested the cdi and it looks to be ac. My battery was about dead so when I put the multimeter on acv and tried to crank it, it only read about 4ac volts per round. Read 0 dc volts when key was turnt. I put the negative point on the black/ground of the 2 pins and put the positive on the red/black side of the 2 pin cdi connection to the scoot.
Problbly need a new stator because I put the blue ac cdi on and the plug had a small spark. When I put the weird stock cdi on, it had a regular spark though.
Its very weird. Everything points to it being a ac scoot except the blue cdi not working. But it lights green when I try to crank.
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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 12, 2015 3:17:28 GMT -5
Im a computer enthusiasts and was wondering could thermal paste be used as lapping coumpound... Help
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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 12, 2015 1:08:32 GMT -5
The auto choke is already hooked up. Thats a random connection I found Iand I have no idea where neither goes. They fit into each other but the get really hot and blow the fuse. I know both are pulling voltage from somewhere. I need to trace all my wires one day.
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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 12, 2015 0:06:09 GMT -5
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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 11, 2015 23:36:51 GMT -5
Thanks, wonder why alley haven't commented yet? Anyway my cylinder came with 14g cylinder rollers. Is it really noticeably different from stock rollers?
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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 11, 2015 23:07:10 GMT -5
Im going to try what this guy did to know if my scoot is ac or dc and to see if my elctric system is good. geh3333 |
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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 11, 2015 22:25:47 GMT -5
Yeah I'm a little confused too. The regulator is a 4-pin harness in the front of my scoot. The blue AC CDI doesnt work with my scoot though. Its just make a barely noticeable spark. Stock CDI looks out of this world but it works. Its big like a DC CDI, but the cdi harness looks ac. Just a weird electrical system. When it was crank, I accidentally hit the loose battery cables and the scoot turned off. I don't know...
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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 11, 2015 20:12:14 GMT -5
O I didn't know it was a difference... In my scoot, the turn signals can work without the rectifier.
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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 11, 2015 19:53:17 GMT -5
I cleaned the carb before but I forgot when. wouldnt hurt to do again. Shouldn't be any air leaks but I do need to zip tie the rest of the vacuum hose.
I don't really know if the valves are leaking. I'm going to liquid test them when I take the head off to fix the exhaust studs.
Does scrappy dogg scoots sell stainless steel exhaust studs?
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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 11, 2015 19:28:09 GMT -5
I did adjust the idle screw to the point where I thought it wouldn't stall. I'm going to adjust the A/F mixture screw like that when I go back out tomorrow. It only bogs out on acceleration at high rpm's. Like, I can only go low rpm's right now and when I accelerate for higher rpm's, it bogs until I go back to lower rpm's. I haven't been using the same gaskets, The new head and cylinder/piston kit came with both new gaskets plus a few O rings and exhaust. Yes I plan on replacing the exhaust studs asap (ordering tonight). As I was tightening them on (not too tight), one just popped off and is in the exhaust nut. I guess it had something to do with the temps. They were Chinese studs anyway. I have the right tools to carefully get the bolt out the head and out the nut. Plus it's a little exposed coming from the head because the muffler header space it took up, so I'm going to try pliers first. I found out yesterday that I had a DC gy6 so I don't know if that effects the rectifier... I haven't checked my wires like that before but it's a very good idea to do so. Thanks Yeah I thought the fuse was too big, need to replace with a 10 or 15 amp fuse. I redone the headlights and replaced the bulbs. Tail light is LED and seem to be alright just don't work continuously, only as I brake. All four turning signals seem to be fine, and it shows in the dash. The headlight don't light up at all when crank, not even on the dash. (high and low beam) I thought as long as the spark plug sparks, your stator is fine? I suspected it to be the problem in the first place... When I got the scoot used, it didn't have a front break lever. It had everything else though for the front. I can squeeze the back breaks all the way. Going to do what geh3333 said to fix it. I have no idea what the auto choke was doing in the video. It was already warmed up, had been running for about 10min before I started recording and its was like 47 degrees out, not too cold... I had to rig the en-richer cable to stay on the plug because it was corroded and exposed when I got the scoot. It stalled out a few times on me. That's why I didn't want to tune it quite yet until it clears out. Ill do my best to adjust the arm, but I might need a video demonstration... lain |
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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 11, 2015 18:27:35 GMT -5
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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 11, 2015 17:55:31 GMT -5
Alright so today it felt better out, so I attempted to crank my scoot and get it to idle. Mission Accomplished. It kept stuttering/jerking like it just wanted to take off. I think I just need to change the oil even though its like clear, but it was a little low. Help? Headlights and tail light still don't work when cranked. I put a new rectifier on but I guess it was DOA. Going to get a bigger one just in case. Help? Managed to break off the head cover valve  Then managed to break off one of the exhaust bolts. Looking for a couple of stainless steel replacements. Scoot is really loud now even with the copper gasket on... Suggestions? Still no breaks so I'm going to order a 125mm drum break. (long case) Suggestions? Rode it around the yard and it bogs like crazy. Even put the stock air filter on, but same results. Thinking I need to set the pin in the carb? (125 main jet) O, and I put new pwr and ground, battery cables on and a 20 amp fuse. Is it too many amps? Is it the reason my headlights are not working and battery not charging? JR, alleyoop, Doug, JerryScript, skuttadawg, lain geh3333 |
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