|
|
Post by xyshannen on Oct 7, 2014 7:52:24 GMT -5
OK I'm about to install the 59mm scrappy dog BBK with performance head. Later, say in a month or two I am wanting to put in a stroker crank. I'm being told that if I do this after the engine has been running with the BBK and stock crank, that I'm going to have to have the cylinder jug rehoned. Is this true?
|
|
|
|
Post by xyshannen on Oct 6, 2014 12:58:30 GMT -5
Leo, I guess you and are just rednecks. Now squeal like a pig! |
|
|
|
Post by xyshannen on Oct 4, 2014 16:24:01 GMT -5
Yeah I can't really say anything good about my tires except the fact that over 2k miles and no noticeable tread wear. They rider hard as a rock. The prev owner kept them at around 6 psi ("cause it makes it ride smoother") and with the factory rear shock being junk and my big ol bum sitting on it, when I hit a bump at 30PSI I feel it shoot up my tail bone. Then there is the issue that wile on some road surfaces, like new black top, the road actually feels like it's floating out from under me. Not something I enjoy! So hopefully these new tires will be the ticket..a new rear shock will help to but thats down the road. This month we are working on getting to 60MPH faster and safer.
BTW, I just love reading your posts. You really have a know how with the written word.
|
|
|
|
Post by xyshannen on Oct 4, 2014 7:24:10 GMT -5
Thanks Leo!!! That helps soo much brother. Yep the reason I want P rated isn't that I plan on going 70+ but that like with all my auto's is that a tire rated at the max speed or close to what you want to travel isn't as good as one rated to go 30-40 mph over your normal travel speed. Room too spare is a good thing when you consider what actually happens to a tire when it goes out from excessive speeds. It's bad in a 4 wheeler, and on a 2 wheeler it could mean death. And I totally agree that white walls would look sweet on my scoot. Kinda makes ya wonder why they didn't just put them on from the factory. Would have totally helped sales that's for sure. Placing my order today!  edit: That helpful info on the Shinko's got a bone my friend.. |
|
|
|
Post by xyshannen on Oct 4, 2014 7:11:33 GMT -5
dmartin95 Ah, I see so its more about how the bags sit on our particular body style. Yes that helps a great deal. No I can't make them for less than what you pad. I figure it's going to cost me about 150 in just materials to make mine. But as a leather worker, when people ask..did you make those? I kinda have to be able to say yes. katastroff Welcome to the site! That is a great ride you have there, as you can see above many of us (including myself) have this same scooter or one very similar. Do keep us posted on your project because when my short case blows, I'm planning on doing exactly what you are doing. I figure at the very least you are going to have too modify your rear bumper to make clearance for the longer wheel base.
|
|
|
|
Post by xyshannen on Oct 4, 2014 6:58:26 GMT -5
Ah, ok now I understand thanks. I'll go with sliders once I figure out what roller weight to use. Right now I'm using the stock 12 grams that came with my hoca, but feel like, with my weight, my motor would pull a little better from a stop with some lighter rollers. I'm not going to start swapping them out yet cause starting monday I'm redoing my whole top end with a better head, bigger cam, and a 59mm BBK. Should be fun!
|
|
|
|
Post by xyshannen on Oct 3, 2014 7:32:03 GMT -5
I have a Hoca variator and the belt (with rollers) already goes all the way to the edge. Any more and I fear it will pop off. alleyoop didn't I read somewhere that you go up 1 or down 1 when you go from rollers to sliders? |
|
|
|
Post by xyshannen on Oct 2, 2014 16:55:30 GMT -5
Can any one tell me what's the difference between rolls or sliders in my variator? I list of Pros VS Cons would be a great help. Thanks in advance.
|
|
|
|
Post by xyshannen on Oct 2, 2014 16:52:50 GMT -5
I agree that road condition and driving style has to be the reason behind so many wearing out tries so fast. My Lance now with over 2500 miles still has the original tires and the tread still looks new. I'm about to get new ones because I want white wall p rated tires. Not to mention my rear tire has actual dry rot splits on the side walls. I'm going with a Shinko SR723 Series Tire - Front/Rear - 120/70-10 on my 3.5 10" rim so I have a little more tire height and a lower RPM cruising speed. Not to mention a lil more top end.
|
|
|
|
Post by xyshannen on Oct 2, 2014 16:27:12 GMT -5
oldchopperguy sweet! A quick look at their web site and it looks like they dropped this from production. What a shame.
|
|
|
|
Post by xyshannen on Sept 30, 2014 7:21:28 GMT -5
That bike belongs to a guy I know, it was an early prototype compared to what he has now. He beats motorcycles in races
|
|
|
|
Post by xyshannen on Sept 29, 2014 16:21:12 GMT -5
Oh I fought tooth and nail to avoid burning gas ever again,, but in the end hormonse won out. Dating is next to impossible with the ebike.. It's not exactly meant for 2 lol.
The batteries are still the big hold back keeping e-vehicles from being more dominant in the market. Sure it's close to the cost of a motor and tranny, BUT you should never have to change the motor and tranny in the average life span (5 years) that you own a car. The batteries, wile are getting better every day, one hiccup and BOOM you need new bats. Not to mention the danger of the cheaper lithiums I've seen many a house burnt to the ground because someone was using hobby grad lithiums. Wile they have awesome power capabilities, they tend to be very fragile, and more often then not when they fail they catch fire. The fire is so hot from lithiums it will melt metal and concrete. Since Lithiums provide their own fuel a normal fire extinguisher is useless.
The safe type of lithium is LiFe PO4 that uses a phosphate cathode (what's on my bike) and wile they are very safe and don't burn, you loose a lot of performance as the discharge rate is only 3 times that of the batteries amperage capacity. Hobby grade lithiums are up to 60 times capacity. LiFe PO4 is also about 4 times the cost.
Thanks for the bone my man!
|
|
|
|
Post by xyshannen on Sept 29, 2014 13:36:54 GMT -5
My profession was installing and maintaining DC powered Telephone systems. Building this bike was kinda a no brainer for me. The hardest part was the research involved in not buying some cheap ebay kit, but finding a good quality motor and controller that wold handle the amps I was planning on putting to it. I ended up going to a canadian based company because their motor's capabilities is still one of the best on the market. And actually illegal to be sold here in the states. Well I don't know that illegal is the right word. It has to do with the way the laws around these bikes are written and the liability door that gets opened if a company based in the US sold electric motors for bike use with the power that that one is capable of. That's also why just about every e-bike commercially made for the US market is advertised to only go 20mph. Anything faster is no longer considered a bicycle.
In Florida if a e-bike can go over 20 you have to have it tagged and registered. If a cop knows the law (most don't actually) and he see's you doing over 20 you can be ticketed and risk having your bike impounded. I always just made sure I was "fake" pedaling at speeds around 30 and anything over 40 I kept a very watchful eye out for the po po.
|
|
|
|
Post by xyshannen on Sept 29, 2014 11:34:22 GMT -5
Kat, that's another downfall with e-bikes made for the US and EU market.. They are usually way over priced! My bike has way more power and range than that thing. I payed over $500 for the base bike and still finished the build for less than 2k total. And I guarantee that my bike is of way better quality than that thing. Just looking at it, I would be sceerd to take it over 20mph.
Check this out...pay attention to the guy's shoes.
|
|
|
|
Post by xyshannen on Sept 29, 2014 7:29:35 GMT -5
I agree you are going to need at least 150cc for 2 riders. A motorcycle endorsement isn't an expensive affair. In todays market you can easily find 150cc scoots still in your price range, and a used one isn't a bad option. I personally don't see the point in getting a 50cc. Just about every person who does and plans on using it for any real means of transportation almost immediately want to do something to add more power. So IMO it's better to just start off with the largest CC your budget can afford. Even with shipping, you are still in the realm of $800. with models like this www.superiorpowersports.com/150cc_Gas_Scooter_Moped_p/rk150sc-04.htm |
|
