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Post by rockynv on Dec 16, 2016 5:08:29 GMT -5
Harley pushed for regs to have them banished on Dirt Track racing, turning the sport into a backwater class with no interest. Kawasaki finally came along with the 650 Ninja, reinvigorated the class and took the number 1 plate this year with a smaller engine smack filled with modern technology. Indian is about to add new luster with overhead cams, eight valves and fuel injection. Multi cylinder bikes have been road racing since the Honda in 1969. Yamaha rules the class right now with the R-1. Harley became uncompetitive in Road Racing when the rules allowed all 750s to compete in 1969. The 750 Suzuki and Kawasaki two strokes, along with 350 Yamahas were beyond Milwaukee's reach. The later VR-1000 was such a debacle it's best forgotten. I owned a 1974 H1 500e. It had received a new beefier frame that year and, with better shocks and tires, could run with anything. It never overheated, even in traffic on the Long Island Expressway, and I had 30,000 miles on it when I sold it for the 1000cc Kawasaki. The H1 was bone simple to keep up. Every year I de-coked the exhaust baffles and lubed the chain every 200 miles. With a good two stroke oil it was darn near bullet proof if ridden sensibly. No valve adjustments, no oil changes and 50 pounds lighter than a very slow 500 Honda. It took the 900cc Z-1 to overshadow the triples. Every time I go into a dealer these days I shake my head. I can feel my back ache when I look at them. The Boy racer look might sell bikes but it does nothing for me. This Honda is my idea of a motorcycle. The good old if you can't win fairly then cheat or have the rules changed in your favor game is what they were playing at back then. I worked with a former 1960's flat track racer who brought in his old racing gear from back in the day into work one day and it was little more than a leather jump suit with no armor. His wife promised him a new bike if could slip into it and zip it up. Its been 5 years and he still is riding his old powder blue Majesty. He has not missed the bike week races in Daytona for years. The new Scouts sometimes tempt me especially now that they have entry level models such as the 66 which are a bit more affordable however the crushed up left leg makes it too hard to work the shift when the riding gets interesting to drop the dime on one. If I did get one it would only be for an occasional short ride when I am not it that much pain and not for regular use so the practical side of me kicks in the brakes on doing it. |
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Post by rockynv on Dec 16, 2016 0:22:42 GMT -5
Call Kymco's main office in OZ or their closest dealer to you. The folks that sell and service Kymco will usually be your best source for information on parts and tires. A Ducati dealer usually won't be the best goto guy for tires on a tall rider 150cc scooter.
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Post by rockynv on Dec 15, 2016 23:43:42 GMT -5
Thanks for that input . The Ducati guy said much the same as you which was that these are scooters not high performance racing bikes , so i guess lowering my expectations on what results a tyre might give me might be a good place to start. Seems Kymcos are much more popular in The US than here in Oz. Its hard even finding parts , i had to go to the UK just to get an air filter. I have rego due in Feb so i still have some time to find an appropriate tyre/tire . Thanks again. It is the weight capacity that may get you from using a front tire on the back of a scooter. Scooters are very light in the front with most of the weight being on the rear tire. You may note that tire pressure up front does not change much if at all when loading the scooter to full capacity and that the preload does not really need to be reset on the front however on the back you need to change the tire pressure to match the load along with increase the preload on the rear springs. |
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Post by rockynv on Dec 15, 2016 23:37:41 GMT -5
I would have liked to buy a Like -  - however, I found my knees butting up against the "glovebox" door - I don't have this problem on the Super 8, as there is no glovebox...  I'd LOVE a People GT 300i...or a SYM HD200...  That was the problem with the My Road 700 with the added handicap of being a BIG HEAVY bike for small people. Most that would consider one and could handle the ponderous weight hit their knees on the front fairing and glove box. Around here they had to basically give them away to get them off the showroom floor. The bike needed the seat to be an inch or so higher or the riding position set back a few inches to alleviate the cramped riding position. |
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Post by rockynv on Dec 15, 2016 23:25:47 GMT -5
I'll assume you have a long case GY6. www.partsforscooters.com carries a whole range of quality belts for your scooter. www.partsforscooters.com/Street-Scooters-Belts?range=61%2C80%2C92Bad transmission bearing are rare in a GY6 transmission. I had a similar thing years ago on my short case GY6. It turned out that the belt stretched enough to slap the top of the side case and send a vibration. You may also have a broken spring in one of your clutch arms causing the noise. Do you feel the clack or just hear it? They usually cause a buzz or vibration when they get sloppy and are the cause of most of the exhaust system failures from cracking. Riders don't put two and two together to see that the GY6 as it has no bearing in the CVT cover to support the outer end of the clutch shaft experiences belt failure because that bearing has gotten weak allowing the clutch shaft to vibrate. When it gets really bad the composite weights on the clutch pads will start fracturing and coming apart. On a GY6 without a swing arm extension you may also find that initially before the muffler itself fails from the vibrations of the bad clutch shaft bearing in the gearbox that it will throw off the inner fender bolted to the muffler. Eventually if let go long enough they will cause the gears to chatter. Its important to chase these types of issues down right away as once they escalate the collateral damage can make it harder to get to the root cause. Sometimes the event that starts it all off is failure to grease the needle bearings inside the clutch along with the shaft the clutch idles on. Too many just wipe the dirty grease off the shaft and put the clutch back on dry with no lubrication for the open rollers inside the clutch that ride directly on the machined surface of the shaft. Sometimes its simple roller clatter however that still involves opening the CVT case and inspecting everything to see whats happening. There could even be a groove on the drive face of the variator from running at one constant midrange speed causing the belt to jump around when it gets caught in the groove however that makes more of a strumming noise than a metallic clatter. This can happen even on bikes with only a few thousand miles on them. |
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Post by rockynv on Dec 15, 2016 5:03:27 GMT -5
I share your fondness for standard bikes from the 70s. I wish Kawasaki could make emissions legal two stroke triples again. I don't want my motorcycle to have "Star Wars" body panels. You want them to bring back "The Widow Maker"? Definitely would have to put them in a better frame than the old ones. They made the Widows when the frames failed to contain the power of the three cylinder 2 stroke 750. They were quite wobbly and required a sharp rider to keep them on the road if you pushed them. The middle cylinder on those threes had a tendency to overheat. On a track they sounded more like an airplane taking off and were quite impressive as long as the rider could keep them on the track. Many would have a welding shop beef them up to overcome the issues with the frames. Harley race teams found the only way to compete was to wait for them to crash or designate one rider on their team to sacrifice himself and get into a crash with them to take them out of the race. Harley finally pushed for race reg changes to prevent the triples from being raced. |
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Post by rockynv on Dec 15, 2016 1:31:52 GMT -5
I wait for a sale at Cycle Gear and pickup their Kevlar Level 3 Armored Iron Workers Jeans or Cargo Pants for $69 to $79 or When Leather UP is having a sale their Xelement Level 3 Armored Over Pants for $39. I never ride without one or the other. Leather up also has Kevlar Jeans with Level 3 Armor for less but since the jeans/cargo pants are something I would wear all day long I picked them up from Cycle Gear since they have 2 Brick and Mortar stores in my area.
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Post by rockynv on Dec 15, 2016 1:23:00 GMT -5
I just spray water proofing on the backs of my leather gloves with carbon fiber inserts paying attention to the seams/stitching and all is well to about 37 degrees. Below that the bridges I ride over before sunrise tend to ice up which is not good for the scooter or the rider. I carry a bib in the seat bucket to put under my armored riding jacket if it gets too cold out so when I ride out I am prepared for any weather from just above freezing to 120. Also carry a full rain suite under the seat and either wear Kevlar Jeans with Level 3 Armor or Over Pants with Level 3 Armor.
After a low side fall at about 45 mph and having the bike slide over me I don't ride without ATGATT as I was not wearing lower body protection then and it took over a year to recover 99% from the bruises on my knees.
Riding through crows is fun but they can have the last laugh if you scare the #$%^ out of them.
Loud pipes with the ultra sound insulated cars out there and mega blaster stereos aren't the protection they used to be and can make you a target so they can end up being a double edged sword that can cut back at you. On a long ride they can get very annoying. For me a long ride starts at 4 am and can end after midnight with about 10 or 12 hours of riding covering up to 1,200 miles in a day which could become quite a drag with a loud pipe on the bike.
Still have not found that old time country diner with the perfect chicken fried steak and pork chops and you can cover a lot of miles exploring.
I enjoyed my test drive of a new 500C Abarth but ended up with a more traditional 1978 124 Spider Convertible instead with an unconventional 1.8 L Turbo Diesel powering it. 50 mpg on the highway and around 40 mpg in the city and great fun with the top down.
New to the stable this past September is a Plug In Electric Nissan Leaf which I am loving since it preforms like a muscle car and I get to charge it for free at work making it so I do not have to pay for fuel on my daily commute. If you commute 30 miles or less these electric cars are perfect. No oil changes so annual maintenance is tire rotation and brake flushes along with an occasional cooling system flush every now and then. When I behave I can commute the entire week on one charge however even if it had to be done daily I could do it in a few hours while I am working and again its free. I also get the added perk of a reserved electric car space in the parking garage. If has a speaker mounted under the hood to make a jet type sound at low speeds so people can hear you coming. They found that having too loud a sound made it more difficult for people to figure out where you where coming from so they tuned it with that in mind (brings to mind another danger of a too loud muffler on a bike is it can disorient the listener so they can't easily pick out where your coming from).
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Post by rockynv on Dec 15, 2016 0:35:30 GMT -5
Does it clack when on the center stand and you give it some throttle with the rear brake holding the rear wheel steady or when you start releasing it allowing the wheel to spin under a load? If it only happens when the rear wheel is spinning under a load and not when the clutch is slipping under a load with the wheel stationary then it may be a bad gear or bearing inside the gear box or possibly the wheel or swing arm extension being loose.
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Post by rockynv on Dec 14, 2016 12:44:30 GMT -5
Even though... i have only put about 500 miles on this gear oil... i normally change fluids every 500 miles cause im freakishly ocd about having my scooter have high quality clean fluids running through it. Guess I am getting spoiled by my Aprilia. Engine oil and gear lube in the Aprilia are good for 6,200 miles as long as you run motorcycle 4T grade synthetics. Gear lube drains out looking like you just poured it from a new bottle. I was changing the fluids once or twice a month when I had my GY6. |
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Post by rockynv on Dec 14, 2016 1:32:18 GMT -5
Well shucks. I tried to find a video of anyone launching their bike through glass., Google gave me nothing. Sorry, cy. OTOH 4950, you'd be the first! Who knows, maybe you could make enough money to pay for the door. >'Kat I ended up doing that with my left arm when a wind gust broke the closer on a glass door. Scar has faded over the years but originally showed from the middle of my left palm clear up to the elbow spiraling inward. It was not safety glass and thankfully there was no video. Much more messy then they show in an action movie when the hero goes through a residential glass door and ends up without a mark on them. Here is a failed attempt to ride through on a bicycle: |
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Post by rockynv on Dec 14, 2016 1:22:52 GMT -5
Could be a number of things from a belt with bad cords to a clutch issue or possibly a sticky variator with a flipped roller but it is a problem that needs to be investigated.
It could even be a defective bearing in the final drive. What's the gear oil level like?
Sure its not pinging and rattling from using too low a grade of fuel?
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Post by rockynv on Dec 14, 2016 1:10:09 GMT -5
Still need to run it in to get combustion pressure to seat the rings by getting behind the bevels and such. Yes some are run in under a load at the factory by a computer to minimize user run in before you buy them however in the case of the original posters home installed Big Block Kit you still need to go through the basics to ensure longer trouble free life and better performance.
Just had an old timer who always followed the run in by the book sell his Scarabeo 500 GT Touring scooter with 138,000 miles on it and still running great without a rebuild. You will see more of those coming from folks who followed the run in by the book than from the folks who did not and more typically had to rebuild their engines before 50,000 miles.
On my 250cc Aprilia the book said to run it in with no low speed full throttle acceleration for a set mileage and to refrain from speeds over 55 mph or riding at a constant speed until after the run in oil change and then gradually increase the speeds you ride at over then next few hundred miles. Following the book exactly my Aprilia at 30,000 miles burns no oil and still runs like new with the added plus that I get an extra 15 to 20 mph top speed (almost 100 mph) compared to those who did not follow the run in procedure specified in the Aprilia Owners Manual (around 75/80 mph).
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Post by rockynv on Dec 13, 2016 12:44:12 GMT -5
Its compression that expands the rings and seats them to the cylinder wall while vacuum releases them to allow oil film on the cylinder wall for the next compression and combustion stroke. WOT from a dead stop should be avoided during break in as would gunning an unloaded engine. A new cylinder should not be pushed past 2/3 of its top speed during initial break in.
A 15 minute warm up is too way too long at a constant speed for new cylinder and can cause harmonic buzzes and rattles that will stay with the bike for the life of the rebuild and can lead to prematurely wearing out.
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Post by rockynv on Dec 13, 2016 1:52:54 GMT -5
You need to load up the crank and accelerate varying the throttle and load to break in the kit so running it on the stand with no load is not going to seat the rings to the bore very well and could create a damaging harmonic vibration that would damage the piston/cylinder. Accelerating under a moderate load forces the piston rings into tighter contact with the cylinder walls to get them to conform better during break in and really critical to the process.
The Wolf RX 50 is a 40/45 mph 50cc bike for riding on 30/35 mph roads so even with a 80cc BBK your pushing it on a 50 mph road where traffic is likely flowing at 55 to 60 with the insane going 70 mph. An entry level 125/150cc is really the minimum for that type of service. Bumping it to 80cc should just make it more reasonable on a 35/40 mph road so that you are not running wide open all the time to keep up with traffic. Its still going to be one of the smallest small frame 50cc scooters once all is done and not the safest size bike for a 40 mile daily commute on a 50 mph road.
Break it in putting around town in the evening or the coming weekend for a few hundred miles or so varying the throttle, change the oil at around 400/500 miles and then you should be passable for your commute as long as you don't go too wild. What type of results were you expecting to get from the 80cc BBK?
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