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Post by rockynv on Dec 22, 2016 0:33:57 GMT -5
If still won't happen not in a million years your using government fuzzy math in you mind. No math just 50+ years of real life experience. Excessively loose valves close too early along with open too late on both the intake and exhaust stroke and while you may not see the effects during a compression test while cranking the engine at low speed the results at high speed and under load are higher oil consumption and increased blow by. Valve lash being too loose or too tight impacts the duration of how long the valves stay opened or closed with excessively loose leaving the valves closed too long reducing how far they open impacting intake and exhaust efficiency while too tight will cause them to stay closed for too short a duration with the potential for burning the valves and damaging the valve seats along with poking a hole in the piston and scoring the cylinder if the valve head shatters or breaks off after getting overheated. Bottom line is follow the service schedule and check the valve lash per that schedule regardless of what shortcuts others endorse. Don't wait until things have gotten so far out that they show up during a compression test as too often some level of damage will have already occurred.
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Post by rockynv on Dec 22, 2016 0:04:32 GMT -5
Some have the 223cc and others have the 229cc with the 229 having less hp along with less torque losing about 10 or so mph top speed compared to the 223. Most of the 223 that I have seen so far are not certified for sale in California.
CCW uses engines from both CPI and Lifan with at least one OHC option too.
The Janus while nostalgic and nice to look at I can't justify the cost at more than triple what other vendors sell bikes based on either the 223 or 229 engines be they from CPI or Lifan. They are nice examples though of what can be done with a basic engine, tubing and off the shelf parts.
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Post by rockynv on Dec 21, 2016 12:54:55 GMT -5
Newer happen compression doesn't go higher if rocker is a little loose. Valve is closed it's closed it can't close any more then that... A compression tester is a basic tool but any buddy who services engines should have one and know how to read one. To many people think you can you your finger this is a joke a best you need fuel,compression,fire if you missing something it's not going to run. In some cases will run but poorly at best. If the valve is too loose it closes too early during the intake stroke creating a partial wet lock as excessive amounts of oil are drawn past the rings which on the compression stroke causes higher than normal compression. That is why engines with valves way out of adjustment will at times suck all the oil out of the crankcase if very short time. Seen this play out multiple times with folks thinking they needed to rebuild the cylinder when all they needed was to take care of a past due valve adjustment.
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Post by rockynv on Dec 21, 2016 5:17:31 GMT -5
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Post by rockynv on Dec 21, 2016 5:14:18 GMT -5
Lance has been quite cautious after the 2007/2008 Znen debacle. Those bikes with the bad bearings, faulty castings, etc hurt them quite a bit. The new Lance and Sym offerings are quite different from those maintenance nightmares from 8 years ago.
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Post by rockynv on Dec 20, 2016 4:36:35 GMT -5
this is my main concern about everyone saying about always checking checking valve lash myself I believe in old school compression test will tell a great deal about valves and rings. Then make a intelligent way to go if compression is great leave it alone. The old saying is still right if not broke leave it alone. Compression can be a tad high if the valves are excessively loose and you can experience excessive oil consumption from the valves closing too early from being too loose. If the valves are slightly tight you may not notice until after the valves have burned and cracked from the shortened amount of time they are in contact with the valve seats and getting cooled. Best is to check the valve lash per the maintenance schedule published by the manufacturer and pay attention to reassemble things as you found them. A marking pen and digital camera can greatly assist in doing this right. I keep an old cell phone for use as a shop camera which works out famously. They work just fine on your wifi just like any other personal computing device and your main cell phone stays clean and grease free.
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Post by rockynv on Dec 20, 2016 1:25:51 GMT -5
JCL MP250A Lihai 257cc powered / Believe it or not I bet you a bunch they are a good deal slower than the originals. The reason being is the Honda engines of the day were Over head cam engines. I can tell by the heads I am seeing here that these engines are Over head VALVE. The early 4 stroke engines in this style bike were race bread engines Honda sold in the 90cc, 100cc, 125cc single cylinder CL, SL and so on bikes. I have a 1976 CL 125cc Honda that will outrun my 250 cc Bobber. They are both 4 stroke singles . The difference is the 250 is a OHV and the 125 is an OHC. BIG difference in how they perform. They sell the OHV engines these days because they are easier to warranty. They are longer lived due to the mild nature of that design. The over head cam design usually does'nt last as long because you can over rev them and run the snot out of them. But boy are they more fun ! These are powered by the 229cc 5 speed Classic Honda clone engines from China and have a balance shaft added to them. I enjoy thoroughly the 4 Valve OHC 249cc engine in my bike. Should last close to 100,000 miles if you follow the published maintenance schedule and use the recommended fluids. For the $7,000+ price tag I thought Janus should have used a more elegant power plant under the bikes than what they chose however they are nostalgic and basically hand made customs. Still for that money you can get a Honda DCT 700 and for less a Piaggio BV350 that will run circles around the Janus and be much more reliable.
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Post by rockynv on Dec 20, 2016 1:16:08 GMT -5
Do your electric vehicles qualify for Federal and Local EV Tax Credits? I drive a Nissan Leaf as my daily commuter and the standard L1/L2 and 400Volt DC Quick Charge Ports makes it very convenient since those public charging stations are quite common around here. With the Federal and Local EV Tax Credits you can get them new for less than $15,000 and off lease with low mileage for well below $10,000 and you can travel at Interstate speeds. Yes electric is getting very interesting and capable of more than just tooling around the City.
Looking forward to seeing what your next gen EV's will be like. EV no longer means expensive golf cart unless your a millionaire that's for sure.
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Post by rockynv on Dec 19, 2016 12:51:12 GMT -5
These are a bit pricey but look interesting.
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Post by rockynv on Dec 18, 2016 0:52:05 GMT -5
I have been kinda busy with a similar issue. Blew a bargain drive belt (purchased locally and it turned out that even though it was OEM the vendor had it sitting on the shelf facing a window for years so even though it looked new it was not) and finally got around to dealing with it and found the valve gaps off when I went through things. When I took the variator off to clean up behind it I found the Aramid fibers had gone through the oil seal on the timing cover and up into the head. After I cleaned it all up I found the valve gaps a bit large on the intake side and cringed at the implications along with the low compression when I keyed it over. Bottom line belt fibers jumped valve timing enough to hit and damage the intake valves so I had to pull the head and am in the middle of doing a valve job. Yours looks like something was injested through the intake or a valve cracked on the rim and the broken bit bounced around in the cylinder unless you caused the scratches when first inserting the camera. Myself I did not bother with a camera inspection since it was obvious to me when I saw the intake valves with such a wide gap on an engine that rarely ever needs the intake valves adjusted that the head needed to be pulled. Did you take pictures of the cylinder walls with the piston at the bottom of the stroke?
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Post by rockynv on Dec 18, 2016 0:36:01 GMT -5
Looks interesting and the scooter designs are very appealing just the weight capacities are way too low at 330 lbs so no riding double. The e-bikes limited to a 176 lb rider would not cut it for the majority of riders I know either.
Looks to be mostly for children and teens before they reach their full adult size.
Do they have anything for full grown adults at another link?
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Post by rockynv on Dec 17, 2016 11:57:59 GMT -5
Would like to see Kymco, Sym-Lance, Genuine, Bintelli, and Wolf offer direct online sales of a "value priced" scooter model. The Amazon reviews for the TaoTao ATM50-A1 may be a indication of how this would go . . those with some mechanical aptitude appear to prevail, compared to the "can't find the spark plug" crowd. Tesla marketing strategy. It can backfire terribly when the distributor or manufacturer cuts out their dealers and starts competing with them. Znen tried that with their own Puma brand of bikes. There is added value to having the ability to provide a full parts and labor warranty at an OEM dealership compared to a parts only warranty with telephone support.
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Post by rockynv on Dec 17, 2016 11:49:53 GMT -5
For continued diagnosis, heres whats up. A. The bike makes no noise with it up on the center stand with no load, it only makes the noise when i gun it from a standstill or moving at 20 mph or lower and i gun it. B. I only feel it a tiny bit, its mostly all noise. C. I held the rear break down as hard as i could and slammed the throttle and nothing happened, then i slowly increased the throttle with the break on from idle to full throttle, no noise. I am super appreciative or all the help guys, i am in atlanta for a few days so when i get back im really gonna get into it. Cant wait to find out what the issue is with it. C tends to indicate that the variator and belt are not the problem here but.... When you get back it will be time to put on your Detectives Cap and do the forensics while taking it apart to get to the root cause.
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Post by rockynv on Dec 16, 2016 12:54:41 GMT -5
Wow! That has to be the most destruction I've ever seen in a broken CVT. Including years on China scooter forums. Imagine the pain of owning something that expensive and having it blow like that. I love the CVT cover removal. I thought my GY6 with its bunch of bolts was bad, that tops it. My CN-250 comes off with just two bolts in seconds. Looks like he damaged things with a cheap aftermarket kevlar belt and tried to put it all back together without replacing everything that the aftermarket belt had damaged. You will see those bikes getting handed down to the next generation if they are maintained by the book. Those Athena belts caused a lot of problems for way too many people. The CVT cover actually comes off very easily if you do not fight with it and really does not need to come off for around 6,200 to 12,500 miles as long as you buy fresh OEM belts and keep the CVT filter clean. At 50,000 to 75,000 miles you change the variator and clutch. Mine has 30,000 miles on it being ridden rain or shine here in Tampa Bay Florida and there is not any rust on the crank while the bike in the video with the blown variator is so rusty it looks like it was left submerged or potentially ridden in salt water.
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Post by rockynv on Dec 16, 2016 12:33:13 GMT -5
The 250 Honda Helix and its clones don't have a bearing support in the outer case either. I'm guessing that Piaggio does. I'm still guessing that his problem is in either the CVT, like one of the replaceable guides has fractured and fallen out or his belt has stretched and is rattling the CVT. The GY6 is a fairly sturdy unit with no clutch bearing failures in my memory although it can happen, I guess. Interesting that the video is of another Thailand built Honda. Ungubunga just had the same thing happen on his PCX. Most don't realize they have had bearing failures until its too late and usually have junked the bikes due to the repetative failures of the muffler, header pipe, clutch shoes, etc. I have seen this quite a number of times and to me it is the biggest flaw in the GY6 design. It is one of the first things I check when someone complains of mufflers or exhaust flanges constantly coming loose or cracking.
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