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Yeah, I got all excited when you said the belt was high/low - then realized unless the rear gears were frozen this would do nothing to the engine.

Either way, I suggested he remove the belt a while back just because it's so easy to do - and eliminates any possibility like you were suggesting.  If, then, then engine spun freely the proof of a CVT issue would be 100%

We need Murky to respond a little more timely, also.  Waited all weekend just to see if touching a jumper to the starter would solve the problem - a 5 minute check.  We can get this narrowed down ... but quicker response is really needed.

I agree it "might" be the starter clutch .... or something in the jug .... or bad bearings .....

But whatever it is shows up under compression but not with the spark plug removed.  That should give us a clue (I know, it STILL might be the clutch ... but doesn't this make something else - like, maybe, valve timing - more likely?).  Someone here should be able to point out the next most likely cause from among the many possibilities.

I dunno - at this point I'm really surprised and flummoxed.  I assume the jumper cables were connected normally, and it's now verified this is NOT an electrical issue (which is stunning to me).  But at this point i have no idea what to do next short of starting to tear the engine apart, which is a crappy dilemma.

OK, to be clear:

We are waiting on Apricot to see if his engine turns over correctly by jump-starting from a known good car battery (car NOT running) directly to the screw on the starter where the large red wire attaches. The black jumper cable should attach to ground - if possible, directly to where the starter motor attaches to the case.

Nah, Dollar, it's not about that at all!

Apricot has been here since 12/7 - 200 responses & 25 days and counting - in the hopes of getting his scooter back on the road.  The poor guy is going to get frustrated and walk away in dismay!

We all should be concentrating not on our own experiences - no matter how valid - unless they directly relate to what we believe can best help Apricot out.  A lot of the discussions here (soft seize, starter clutch, etc) are interesting and fun, but do they really help Apricot get back on the road?  This thread got so convoluted and complicated GEH even tried starting a new thread for him moving forward.  Maybe that was a good idea - don't see the thread any longer.

Anyway;

HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ride safe - there are a lot of amateur drunks on the road this time of year!

I "almost" guarantee you are fighting a battery problem (or wiring, or solenoid).  Look at your video again and watch as the strength of the start decreased each time.  The battery - while never providing much of a jolt to the starter - initially almost turns the engine past the high compression point (TDC, or top dead center).  The next attempt is not as strong, and the last (were there 3?) pretty pitiful.

Here is the chain of electricity from battery to idle gear:

battery >>>>>> negative to frame (black wire)
           >>>>>> positive to solenoid (big red wire)

solenoid:<<<<<< positive switching signal from ignition switch (small wire)
             <<<<<< negative to frame (small wire)

             <<<<<< big red positive wire from battery
             >>>>>> big red positive to starter motor

starter motor:  <<<<<< big red positive from solenoid
                      >>>>>> no wire - ground connection via mounting screw to frame

Your solenoid IDS switching (it's basically just a very high current relay, if you are familiar with relays).  So, the +12v from your ignition switch and your small ground wire are working.

We do not know if the internals of the solenoid are working (it's just a copper plunger that is pulled by electromagnet against a contact, connecting the big red wire from the battery to the big red wire to the starter motor.  Often the copper plunger gets corroded with use (an internal spark happens every time it's used).  But, that's easy to check (I think you did this with your old starter motor).  The 2 big red wires attach with 10mm nuts to 2 screw posts on the top of the solenoid.  If the nuts are not tight it's the same as if your battery nuts are not tight; if the plunger is corroded it's the same as if your battery terminal was corroded.  Make sure the nuts are tight (BUT BE CAREFUL - THE WIRE TO THE BATTERY IS LIVE, AND IF YOUR WRENCH TOUCHES THE NUT AND ANY GROUND, LIKE THE FRAME, AT ANY TIME YOU WILL GET A BIG SPARK).  Then, the way to "bypass" the solenoid and make sure it's not causing the problem is to use a screw driver to connect the 2 screw posts (don't disconnect the wires or you are not sending any current anywhere).  Of course, don't touch the screw drive to ground when it's touching a terminal.

You also could have a bad wire, or a bad ground connection.  Make sure the bolts attaching the starter motor are tight (and trace the battery black cable to where it's attached to the frame and make sure it's tight also).

BUT THE FIRST THING I WOULD DO IS "BYPASS" YOUR ENTIRE ELECTRICAL SYATEM AND JUMP START WITH A CAR BATTERY - BLACK FROM THE JUMPER CABLES TO THE FRAME, RED JUMPER CABLE TOUCHED DIRECTLY ONTO THE + TERMINAL ON THE TOP OF THE STARTER MOTOR.  You do not need to disconnect anything to try this, and do not need to have the scooter key "on".  What this does is provide +12 volts directly to the starter .... nothing else comes into play.  If the starter motor then turns the engine normally you can then start to trace back to where the electrical problem is in your scooter.

Of course, when you use the car battery the car should NOT be running.

Let us know.

ps:  don't worry about fuel or anything at this point - until we get the engine turning ocver properly all that is meaningless.