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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 17, 2014 0:59:18 GMT -5
In an auto this will normally allow 10% or so increased HP .... more if fuel injected.
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 10, 2014 16:49:14 GMT -5
We ALL know you were going downhill, being pushed by a Chevy Volt, and your video was photoshopped and produced by the same people who did the Arizona-based "moon landing' fake videos.
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 7, 2014 19:55:53 GMT -5
I think that's a 1954 Ferrari Superleggera ....
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 7, 2014 12:34:24 GMT -5
My novice's suggestion:
1. Pull the plug, lean it against the crankcase, push the starter. Make sure you actually are getting spark.
2. Just for yuks, and since it's so easy, pull the wires to the coil - 1 at a time - and with needle nose pliers snug the female connector so you are sure the coil has a good connection.
3. Pop the valve cover and check valve clearances (this is my guess of what's wrong).
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 5, 2014 23:49:40 GMT -5
BBK = Big Bore Kit
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 5, 2014 2:14:02 GMT -5
Screw boring out the cylinder liner! A new jug + mated piston + rings + wrist pin costs about $70 delivered (and that for a decent high compression piston. Why fark around with anything else?
As for stroker stuff --- ask Alley. I know nothing about that; he nows everything about everything scooter related.
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 4, 2014 21:15:44 GMT -5
Mr Martin Just to make sure - here is what we are talking about. When you get a BBK, you get a set of parts including a jug (cylinder liner), a cylinder head (where the valves go), a piston, etc. :  The jug - the part housing the piston when it travels up and down (driven by the crankshaft and connecting rod that are inside the crankcase - is the part that must fit inside a hole in the crankcase. The problem is the hole that is standard in a GY6 engine is pretty small, and most serious Big Bore kits will not fit into it:  So the hole must be enlarged so the BBK jugs can fit in the hole. THAT's what is meant by "bore". When you buy a BBK you get a cylinder lining (jug) and piston that are already the correct size for what you buy. You do not need to do anything to the jug you buy other than install it ..... presuming the hole in the crankcase is large enough (bored out, if you are getting anything larger than a 60mm BBK). You don't need to bore the jug. What is required to bore out the hole to a large enough size is either: (a) take it to a machine shop; or, (b) get a tool, remove the 4 head bolts (I think), attach the tool, spin it with a drill ... and the tool cuts a slightly larger hole. The big job with either (a) or (b) is you need to open the crankcase halves and remove the crankshaft, etc --- cause aluminum shavings will go all inside and they will need to be cleaned out. Hope this helps. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 4, 2014 10:37:46 GMT -5
Have about 1,300 miles on Dynabeads in my scooter. The ride is smooth -- but i don't have any "pre-dynabead miles" to compare against since i added the beads when the bike was new. Adding them is a non issue - at least it was for me.
Have 2 new tires to put on my Goldwing ... and Dynabeads sitting on the table waiting .... so I'll soon have a better comparison. My Harley friends are waiting to know. But that will be too late to help you, I suppose.
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 4, 2014 2:17:47 GMT -5
Yeah - you have a BMS Heritage just as I have. You will find the most convenient place to mount the pump is on the kickstand cross beam ... input of the pump facing to the right side. Your hose then does a 180 degree loop, comes back to the filter, which then goes to the gas tank outlet. I drilled a small hole in the plastic undercarriage and zip tied the hose between the filter 7 the pump. Why? Just to make sure it never moves up toward the exhaust manifold.
The OUTLET of the pump then hoses up to the carb.
Make sure you have a fused line to the relay (the power line from your cig lighter socket, not the signal line from ignition). A 5 amp fuse is probably sufficient.
BTW: you can replace the crappy Chinese headlight bulb with a standard H4. TONS more light (and way more reliable). The OEM bulb sits in an oddball socket that you also remove - the H4 has it's socket built in and sits in the headlight reflector where the OEM oddball socket is. You will then have to clip the leads going to the oddball socket and get from your auto parts store a standard H4 plug and wire pigtail.
Bt BTW --- that thing you were calling the "CDI" is really the coil. The CDI box is the black rectangular box, about 2" x3" x 3/4" attached to the right side frame.
Nice gauges!
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 4, 2014 0:57:44 GMT -5
My ex-wife was a boring case, to be sure.
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 4, 2014 0:56:10 GMT -5
About your pump & 'self priming"
the 24" head refers to how far the thing will pump uphill --- NOT how far uphill it will suck the gas in. Pumps have a harder time on the suction side than on the pressure side. So - again, just my few cents - best to have the pump low --- at or around the level of the gas tank. That makes it easy on the suction side - where they struggle more - and puts the load on the output side - where they are stronger.
EDIT:
My pump is also 'self-priming' --- but here is what they recommend:
Installation
Easy Two bolt installation, for best results mount pump close to fuel tank below liquid line,
hook up fuel lines and wire to a fused ignition switched wire and ground black wire and your done.
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 4, 2014 0:52:09 GMT -5
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 4, 2014 0:47:37 GMT -5
The pump lists the MAX flow rate (gal/hr). It won't pump MORE than that. But our little engines only need 1% of that, so we are fine.
"Scooter" also listed fuel pressures at different RPMs. With the vacuum pump the psi varied from 4 at low RPM down to 1.5 at high RPMs (if i recall right). Anyway, the point is 2 or 4 psi is "normal" -=-- and that is exactly what your pump puts out. So THERE WILL BE NO PROBLEM! Add a regulator if you are absolutely compelled to do so ... but, IMHO, it's a total 100% unnecessary waste of money. Your pump is perfectly matched to these carbs, except it could, if needed, supply enough gas for a dozen carbs at the same time. The needle valve in your carb will make sure it only pumps what is needed.
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 3, 2014 20:46:33 GMT -5
sorry - edited that last post, but you were too fast and the edit came in too late:
"BTW - the scooter was running GREAT with the 30mm carb ... other than the low RPMs (which is another issue). The 'problems:" I has were all because i installed the piston on the BBK backwards. Or, at least I hope that's right.
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 3, 2014 20:39:56 GMT -5
Ha! Glad you finally made bail!  BTW: the 'problems" I had were only because i installed the piston of my BBK backwards (at least, I HOPE so). With the 30mm carb the thing was running GREAT (except for low RPMs, which is another issue). |
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