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Post by scooter on Jan 3, 2015 20:54:42 GMT -5
Well the bottom valve was tighter than . The top was fine. After an adjustment they are literally dead on .002in (.05mm) and are quiet as a mouse. I feel like it doesn't rev up with as much authority or power so I will have to adjust the mix screw. Either way I will be happily riding tomorrow for a test ride. Here's pics and a vid. I set my 150 gy6 to .004 intake and .005 exhaust, I think. gokartsusa.com/pdf/GY6_150_Valve_Adjustment.pdf
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Post by scooter on Jan 3, 2015 20:50:17 GMT -5
UPDATE: I found two more wires. Those two that were spliced were being used for the headlight. I put the two wires where they go and I now have high and low beam lights. I also found another cut ground wire and spliced it into the other ones. It was cut off down into the harness. Who knows what's down in there at this point. Now I have a blue and white wire, (with a male bullet? connector on it) that needs a place to go, and I am still trying to find out where the orange and white wire is that belongs to the left blinker or left running light. Picture: Wires to bulb. Two in, three out. Missing the orange and white wire. I get 0.24 volts out of the blue and white wire to ground with the key on. Picture: Blue and white wire coming out of the same harness as the purple and blue wire. When I connected a meter to the left blinker, it read negative with the meter ground on the outside of the bulb socket. I will remeasure that tomorrow and also the right side. I pulled out the turn signal contact plate in the handle and it looks like I'm getting around +10 volts on the right blinker and about +8 volts on the left one, with the positive meter lead on the center post (grey wire). When I tried a new flasher, it also buzzes when the left turn signal is on. The front left signal does not come on but the rear one does, dimly. The right blinkers work. Running lights are not working, front or rear. Picture: Bird's nest or artificial intelligence organism. Note that two wire plug on the far left, next to the blue and white wire, has nothing to plug into. The headlights were spliced into its wires. Hazard light switch in dash has a three wire plug and also nothing to connect it to that I can see. Picture: Turn signal contact board. The single wire plugs to the left are what I called a "bullet" connectors for lack of knowing what they are called.
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Post by scooter on Jan 3, 2015 18:29:10 GMT -5
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Post by scooter on Jan 3, 2015 18:03:06 GMT -5
This is a Peltier chip or thermoelectric chip. It is the same kind of chip you will find in electric Coleman type heater/cooler boxes that you can take with you in your car. When electricity is applied in one polarity, the chip draws heat from one side of the chip and transfers it to the other. By switching the leads, you can reverse the flow of heat. You can also transfer heat into it, or out of it, and it will produce electricity. I will not go into detail right now unless people want to get into it, but I already know that these chips are not as efficient as an A/C compressor, however they have their advantages. They are small and make no noise and have no moving parts. I have considered either powering a blower to cool or heat, in a car or on a bike, and also using the chips in a suit. This WILL warm you or cool you if you desire. It can be powered enough to get hotter than you'd like on your skin, and needs a heat sink on the hot side if enough power is applied, so as not to burn out the chip. The cold side can easily get cold enough to collect condensation. You could even get emergency water that way, but this isn't a survival website, unless you consider staying alive on a scooter a matter of survival. Obviously one chip could take heat, make electricity from it, and send that electricity to another chip to produce hot or cold, but I'm sure efficiency would make that a poor conversion. Still, I wonder if the muffler is hot enough to make a chip power a heated suit or whatever. I don't know how much current it would produce from a muffler, but I have imagined putting these on a mount to thermally connect them to a muffler and see how much electricity they will produce. Someone who is good at math could probably use the temperature of said muffler, the wattage and efficiency of the chip, and get this answer in minutes. Search Google for Peltier Chip Efficiency, Peltier Chip Generator, and other terms to learn more. Wikipedia can be VERY helpful, but can also be very math intensive. There is a ton of information online but I suggest you get to know more about these chips before you make assumptions good or bad. That is the downfall of many a great idea, and the creator of many bad ones. It takes work, or finding someone who has done the work for you, to get accurate information. Watch out for people who pull numbers out of their exhaust pipes. They will waste your time and it's doubtful anything they say will lead to positive results. Here are some sample chips on Ebay: www.ebay.com/itm/TEC1-12706-12V-60W-Heatsink-Thermoelectric-Cooler-Cooling-Peltier-Plate-Module-/121349774916?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c41029e44These units are 12 volts and 60 watts. I believe that means they can take up to 5 amps of power. These are about $4.20 with shipping. There are probably cheaper ones available and also ones that are higher and lower wattages and voltages. This website has a Carnot efficiency calculator. www.coolchips.gi/technology/ccalc.shtmlThey show a Peltier chip as having an efficiency of 5%, a compressor of 45%, and their own "cool chip" of 55%. I'm not saying that is accurate. For an input of 60 watts, it shows a 6.6 watt compressor. It's over my head. I have to sit down and study such things to understand them correctly, and I have not done so. Here is a video of someone making a small fan run on a candle. The chip is between two large heat sinks, a good deal larger than the heat sink you will find an electric thermos cooler/heater, with the fan blowing on the cool one. It's interesting because the fan is actually helping the chip work better. On a scooter or car, you can use ambient air flow to cool the chip and your exhaust to heat the other side of it. It's the heat difference that matters. The colder it is outside and the hotter your exhaust, the better it will work. So there you have it, a chip and some information about where to get more information. They are really fun to play with. I bought several of them for one price, about a year or two ago, and used one as a heater for a reptile rock using only 5 volts instead of 12. There are tons of uses for these chips. The sky is the limit... if you have an airplane.
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Post by scooter on Jan 3, 2015 14:02:53 GMT -5
i second the variator guide check also, forgot about that. Me too. I had a cracked boss once and I think it was holding the variator open, making deceleration come out in steps rather than smoothly.
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Post by scooter on Jan 3, 2015 13:57:59 GMT -5
I've often wanted to play around with the idea of using TMGs to harness the engine heat to generate electricity instead of using a stator. I build Stirling engines as a hobby, and a TMG is basically a Stirling cycle. Probably be too heavy to make it worthwhile, but even smaller systems could at least charge the battery, taking that load off the stator/engine combo. I have some Peltier thermochips here I have been wanting to attach to my muffler to provide electricity for heat and air conditioning on a bike or a car. You can put them in a suit or blow air over them. These are the same chips found in electric heater/cooler units. I have been keeping that under my hat but if people are interested in experimenting I would be glad to discuss it.
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Post by scooter on Jan 3, 2015 13:36:24 GMT -5
Crunk Man! Where you been? How is your vlog coming along? I've been COLD. Haha. Seriously though just got all caught up in the holidays and whatnot so I haven't been around online as much. I'm still working on getting a suitable microphone setup going which is going to involve hacking my "NoPro", SJ4000 cam to give it a microphone in port. After that I'm in business! ...just in time for it to be a constant 30 degrees outside. :-p This is the perfect time to test out riding gear. After seeing you vlog, I got me a cool helmet to keep the cold out and it's frikken' 80 degrees here most days! The bluetooth is nice for listening to music, and the inner sun visor is super!!!, but it is heavy and I hate feeling like my head is inside of a box! Fortunately I can open the chin guard, but I liked my cheapo 3/4 helmet I had better. I could hear and see better. I've seen some other helmets with removable chin guards. They might be a great choice for someone riding to work in 50 degree weather and coming home in 80 degree weather.
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Post by scooter on Jan 3, 2015 13:12:56 GMT -5
No, it's not normal. Are you sure you have the correct size sliders? I wasn't aware that they have different sizes, I thought the only thing that changed was the weight. They are 12g, how do I know the right size? The sliders I see on ebay for a 150 gy6 are 18X14.
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Post by scooter on Jan 3, 2015 13:06:48 GMT -5
How is your clutch tension? Could your clutch be allowing your variator to slop around on deceleration? I didn't have my sliders for long but they didn't have any problem working when I did. By clutch tension you mean the clutch springs? The big one that closes the pulley.
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Post by scooter on Jan 3, 2015 13:04:13 GMT -5
Ok got rid of everything now i need to know the factory carb settings so i can get this thing to start without starter fluid. It wont idle till warm and needs the airbox choked to run. Anyone know them? I'm going to look for a tutorial on checking the valves as well to make sure i know what they are supposed to be set and how to do it. Looks like .004 and .005. Uhg its always something. My feeler only goes to .008. Time to go shopping. The first time I did my valves I used a slice of a CocaCola can. It was better than nothing and you can bet their cans are made to tight tolerances so chances are they are all pretty much the same thickness. I have a nice set of feelers now but it's a nice thing to know you can get away with a can in a pinch.
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Post by scooter on Jan 3, 2015 13:00:47 GMT -5
This cold weather riding is great " other then the frozen fingers,lol" I went on my normal 30mile rd trip Tuesday and had her at full throttle the whole 15 miles into town. There are not many cars on the rd at 4:30am around here . and at 17 degrees I managed to run 60+ mph uphill , and between 70-75 on flats and small declines " the 75 was on the small declines of course ". I hit 80mph down a steep hill by the Walmart in Uniontown and that was at only 8000 rpms ! Its something hitting 80mph on these small scoots ,lol. I was gonna take the scoot into town this morning around 4:30 am . I thought maybe I could beat the freezing rain . thank god I didn't take the scoot . it started raining about 2 mins after I left and the roads became a sheet of ice. I saw I truck flipped on its roof and another that wrecked. THere is no way I would have been able to ride it that . I would have either been walkin the scoot or on my as- . I'm glad I don't have to deal with ice. It's bad enough dealing with people staring into their laps at their phones all the time.
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Post by scooter on Jan 3, 2015 12:56:59 GMT -5
Ok got rid of everything now i need to know the factory carb settings so i can get this thing to start without starter fluid. It wont idle till warm and needs the airbox choked to run. Anyone know them? I'm going to look for a tutorial on checking the valves as well to make sure i know what they are supposed to be set and how to do it. Looks like .004 and .005. Uhg its always something. My feeler only goes to .008. Time to go shopping. That sounds like a fuel issue, like you need more fuel. Choking the intake would increase vacuum, perhaps pulling more fuel out of the jets.
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Post by scooter on Jan 3, 2015 12:54:33 GMT -5
After a day of extended use of my scoot, the sliders get out place giving me troubles at low rpms, after several times it happened I decided to take them out and put the rollers back on; is this normal for sliders to get out of place? How is your clutch tension? Could your clutch be allowing your variator to slop around on deceleration? I didn't have my sliders for long but they didn't have any problem working when I did.
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Post by scooter on Jan 3, 2015 12:48:06 GMT -5
Nice looking scoot! Congrats on the deal. Crunk Man! Where you been? How is your vlog coming along?
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Post by scooter on Jan 3, 2015 12:46:45 GMT -5
All I have to do is shoot it with starter fluid and it will run fine the whole tank from there it just won't start and before it warms up it will not actually run at idle it just tries to basically drop back off very quickly from over half a throttle to a dead cutoff. Once its warm it will hold idle just below where the clutches engage. Maybe your enrichment valve is not working or the carb circuit is clogged?
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