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Post by scooter on Jan 12, 2015 20:46:35 GMT -5
All done! Its a little louder than Im used too,,might just be cause I'm not used to hearing it with all the covers off...and these stiffer valve springs with the bigger cam making a little slam noise..also needs to be broke in. Runs good,,idles,takes fuel..I will fine tune it when I get it all back together... Could not use the performance 30mm intake,,no room,,so might have to mod something up. The motor was already warm when I made the video,,it was running for 10 minutes or so.. Thanks for all the help and I will post videos of my speed on different terrains soon as it warms up a bit. Tom VROOM! VROOM! Nice job, man!  |
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Post by scooter on Jan 12, 2015 18:41:08 GMT -5
I guess I'll have to learn how to check the ignition system now. There is some great info in the back of this manual,,plus the video here is all you will need to know about it...Pg 50-56 in this manual. You can tell the manual was translated but its still has some very good info...I went to staples and had it printed out then spiral bound for the shop. www.familygokarts.com/manuals/ace/arrow150_engine_service_manual.pdfAnd this video is good..taught me a ton about the GY6 ignition system. Thanks, Jersey! I will check it out! |
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Post by scooter on Jan 12, 2015 6:23:03 GMT -5
Thanks, Jersey! I need to test my new scooter like this. I am "jerking" at top end wide open throttle and I suspect either a vacuum leak or a bad fuel pump. I think I'll try propane testing around the vacuum lines and, if I find nothing, I'll pull the pump and clean it. I think the electric is okay. It only jerks on the road, not on the stand and I think it's a fuel issue. I need to learn about doing compression tests. I like what you were saying about leakdown testing. That sounds like a very useful tool. Only jerking under load could be fuel or spark related..a weak coil or CDI issue could cause this as well as fuel. Ive seen motors run fine under no or light load when only small amounts of fuel need to be burned to spin the motor,,then when a load is present with obviously more fuel added,,the spark is not strong enough to burn the added fuel properly. I guess I'll have to learn how to check the ignition system now. |
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Post by scooter on Jan 11, 2015 23:08:40 GMT -5
Mega dittos from me also. This is a really good thread. Any updated numbers? Thanks, Joey! None yet but I'm going to test my new, poorly running, scooter and post the results soon. If I ever get it working right, I'll retest and compare numbers. |
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Post by scooter on Jan 11, 2015 20:49:47 GMT -5
This is a great thread! Glad I found it and thanks for taking the time to do this scooter! Tom  Thanks, Jersey! I need to test my new scooter like this. I am "jerking" at top end wide open throttle and I suspect either a vacuum leak or a bad fuel pump. I think I'll try propane testing around the vacuum lines and, if I find nothing, I'll pull the pump and clean it. I think the electric is okay. It only jerks on the road, not on the stand and I think it's a fuel issue. I need to learn about doing compression tests. I like what you were saying about leakdown testing. That sounds like a very useful tool. |
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Post by scooter on Jan 11, 2015 15:29:31 GMT -5
The only thing I don't get about the the chock, not the vice, is that if you put down the center stand the bike goes back several inches, so I'm not really using it. If I built a chock, I'd make it adjustable like the vice is, so I could put the bike on the center stand and then push or screw the chock back to the tire. From what I gather, some people want the tall wheel chock, with sides on it, so they can back the bike up into it and it will hold up their bike while they strap it down. That sounds convenient. Scooter,, You should pick up a HF shop press also,,i got the 20 ton one on sale for like $150,,reviews said the ram frame was sloppy in the main frame. It did have a little side to side slop but I fixed that right up by inserting four of those sticky slider pads used for the bottom of your furniture so it wont scratch the floor..Wally World had them and now its tighter than a bullfrogs butt hole 10ft under water..sweet press..I got the orange one. Used it for GY6 drive gears,leaf spring shackle bushings and mower blade spindle bearings so far..works awesome and is a must for any inspiring small engine/auto tech. Also would like to add HF has an awesome 3 piece gear puller set,,the smallest one believe its 3" will work perfect for the infamous starter gear on the GY6 that gives everybody a hard time.The blind hole bearing puller is on my list too,,remove any bearing with the slam of the slide hammer.Quick and easy,,no fussing around with hammers,sockets,and punches anymore... Tom Will do. I used to use a big 4" electric powered hydraulic press for industrial stuff. SCA-RY! That thing would bend the 2" thick frame around like it was plastic, and the noises that thing would make! OOOEEEE!!! I wished I go hide around the corner and operate it from a safe distance, and behind some walls! |
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Post by scooter on Jan 11, 2015 15:16:55 GMT -5
Malorie's Law, which has been added to Texas "Sec. 545.416", mandates that your motorcycle or scooter be "equipped with footrests and handholds for use by the passenger" in order to legally carry a passenger. -It was passed after a passenger fell off the back of a motorcycle when the driver made an evasive maneuver to avoid a car. The crash was avoided but the passenger was fatally injured when she fell off. -My question is, will the grab handles on the back of my scooter suffice as passenger handholds? I remember when motorcycle seats were equipped with a strap on the seat for the passenger to cling to. My scooter seat does not have one of those passenger straps.  I never understood those handles on the back of the seat. One good hard acceleration and you are going backwards over your hands. It makes no sense to me. I don't even care if you're a dude, you hold onto me. It may look funny but it beats landing on your head. I suppose next you'll have to sit in a cage so your body will be protected from a crash. You'll want some air bags too, and maybe a seat belt. We are not even required to wear helmets here. If we want to bang our heads on the ground, it's our choice. I'm sure glad I was wearing mine when I got in that wreck. I used to ride without one, but not any more. At least it's up to me though.  |
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Post by scooter on Jan 11, 2015 15:07:10 GMT -5
Really what can go wrong with it other than the bottle jack leaking,,its all steel and rated for 1K lbs. I think the people who bent the bar where lowering very heavy loads suddenly onto the safety bar,,if you go easy there shouldn't be a problem. Like most HF stuff,,a few upgrade mods always can make them better..I would build my own wheel chock for it.. The only thing I don't get about the the chock, not the vice, is that if you put down the center stand the bike goes back several inches, so I'm not really using it. If I built a chock, I'd make it adjustable like the vice is, so I could put the bike on the center stand and then push or screw the chock back to the tire. From what I gather, some people want the tall wheel chock, with sides on it, so they can back the bike up into it and it will hold up their bike while they strap it down. That sounds convenient. |
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Post by scooter on Jan 11, 2015 14:38:16 GMT -5
Reviews were sketchy. Some people said the safety bar bent, but it's about an inch in diameter and, while I haven't yet tried putting a thousand pounds on it, it isn't phased by having a 400 lb scooter on it. Some people said their jacks came without oil, so I bought some, but mine was full and working properly. Others said they didn't like the wheel chock that came with the unit, and opted to buy bigger one, but I found it adequate. The sales person said they use several manufacturers, each with different SKU numbers, so if one manufacturer makes bad products, they can drop them. Hopefully they have, or will, drop the ones creating problems. The jack comes with a  day warranty. They have long term return and on-site service plans available, but they are a bit pricey so I opted out of those. For the price, if it works for a long time, it will be a good bargain and it makes working on bikes a lot easier. As you all may or may not have seen in my videos, I have one of these Harbor Freight motorcycle lifts as well... They are perfect for a scooter, but as an owner of one, You couldn't pay me enough to wrench on fully dressed bike on it. It would be too dangerous. I would be too scared the lift may tip side to side... This is not a heavy duty lift, by any means... In short, I would not buy it to work on Motorcycles. When I purchased mine from a retail location, I had to add "hydraulic fluid", not oil. If you purchased one filled, I would wager it was a customer return. They do not typically come filled.. The removable panel is nice and great for getting at the underside of the engine, but you will not be pulling an engine through it. You wouldn't even want to..... If you're using this only to work on scooters, It will more than likely last a lifetime. But I would not buy it as a motorcycle lift. I agree. It is probably best used for a bike of around 600cc or less. I didn't plan to pull the engine though the slot, just to let the tire down in it a little. If I recall, last time I had to put the stand up on some wood blocks for some reason. The oil they sell is called "Hydraulic and Jack Oil". Yes, I'm assuming it's hydraulic fluid. The sales person said they come with oil in them. The jack was in a crate, wrapped in plastic, with no visible marks or scratches on any of the parts, and I broke the paint around the fill hole when I opened the plug.
Yes, I have seen your shop. It's very nice. I'll be wanting one of those tire changers next, and I'll need a mill, and a lathe, and a welder, and one of those things that puts out cold beer on tap. That's very important. |
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Post by scooter on Jan 11, 2015 11:53:43 GMT -5
Im curious as well to become a small dealer for Taotao and SYM someday for supplemental income.... I did talk to Tomos a while back and they said I would have to put out the $$ for 5 new scooters on crates,,it came to $4k around about,,the resale was around $1700 for them,,I would like to do about 5 a month out of my 12x24 shed here..Tomos said that would be no problem,,just need to cough up four grand..lol It would be wise to offer two types of quality,,the lower more affordable Taotao then a Tomos or SYM,,best of both worlds. A very good customer service plan is important,,also servicing and repairing the scoots will be your bread and butter when sales are slow. Offer plans from full service that includes complete inspection,carb adjust,fuel lines/filter,CVT,belt,gear box,oil change,valve inspection adjustment if needed,cables lubed,air filter,plug,brakes,plastics are tight..the list goes on and on...washing/degreasing their scoot is always a good practice in keeping a customer happy too. Going the extra mile and doing these things correctly will put you above the other shops! Tom Right on, man. Good info and advice there. Double your money on those scoots sounds like a good deal if your overhead is low, and doing the job right means having a solid reputation and more dollars down the line. |
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Post by scooter on Jan 11, 2015 11:47:47 GMT -5
I have been eyeballing them for some time . Me too. I think I'm in luv!  |
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Post by scooter on Jan 11, 2015 11:26:08 GMT -5
Justin, I am learning to repair scooters. Can you tell me what kind of training and background good scooter repair people tend to have? Small engine repair, motorcycle mechanics, auto mechanics, etc? I wouldn't say there is any standard. I've hired employees with no experience and trained them and we've hired really experienced guys. The most important thing is just general knowledge of how engines and electrical systems work. If you know the concept behind engines running, being calibrated, etc, then you can learn anything. Scooter engines are very easy to work on for those who understand the concepts. Understanding the "Why" will help you to troubleshoot and find a solution faster. When all else fails, get your hands dirty - rip things apart and put them back together again. Get an internship with a local shop to get some experience if no paying jobs are available. As a follow up, here's two videos you can watch to get yourself started: How to do an oil change: How to do a valve adjustment: Thank you. I'm definitely getting my hands dirty and learning fast thanks to everyone at itistheride, youtube, and other websites. I also have a question about becoming a scooter dealer. Can you tell me how people become dealers, and what is involved? Is there a big investment, special licenses, etc? |
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Post by scooter on Jan 11, 2015 3:18:58 GMT -5
 Well, dunno what changed this time around. I did the exact same click-hold on my fb image, copied it, then pasted into here's image button. And lookie, there I am with my shiny almost-new 2013 Ford Focus hatchwagon. So, whaddaya think, guys? Did I done good or not? >'Kat It looks good. Unfortunately it's still a Ford.  Sorry, I've had terrible luck with Fords breaking down on me. I don't know why they make the rims so big but it looks nice. Big rims are popular. I think the size affects traction as well. Have fun in your hot new ride, Kat! |
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Post by scooter on Jan 11, 2015 2:52:27 GMT -5
 Harbor Freight has this motorcycle lift on sale for $300. It's too soon to say how long it will last, but so far it is working well. It puts the bike right where I want it, and now working on the lower parts of the bike is a breeze. It has a nice, wide, platform so there is plenty of space to sit your tools and nuts and bolts. The castors allow you to re-position the bike for the best lighting or to move it wherever you want to store or work on it. I haven't used the removable panel yet, but it looks like I'll be able to pull a scooter engine out with the bike just sitting on its center stand without having to put blocks under it. The release pedal can let the bike down very slowly or very fast. There are holes in the plate underneath to adjust it, so I'll be setting that plate to reduce the travel of the pedal. The pedals can be removed to make room for your feet. Reviews were sketchy. Some people said the safety bar bent, but it's about an inch in diameter and, while I haven't yet tried putting a thousand pounds on it, it isn't phased by having a 400 lb scooter on it. Some people said their jacks came without oil, so I bought some, but mine was full and working properly. Others said they didn't like the wheel chock that came with the unit, and opted to buy bigger one, but I found it adequate. The sales person said they use several manufacturers, each with different SKU numbers, so if one manufacturer makes bad products, they can drop them. Hopefully they have, or will, drop the ones creating problems. The jack comes with a day warranty. They have long term return and on-site service plans available, but they are a bit pricey so I opted out of those. For the price, if it works for a long time, it will be a good bargain and it makes working on bikes a lot easier. |
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Post by scooter on Jan 11, 2015 0:15:05 GMT -5
Yeah scooter, I tried to link to the image. Then I uploaded it to shutterfly, but it's not working either. Dunno what I've done in the past to load a picture. I know you can use a online photo site, but isn't that what shutterfly is? Sigh. You'll just have to continue to imagine my new-to-me car. >'Kat Usually you find your image on the web, right click it, select "Copy image URL", or whatever is applicable to your operating system, and then click the picture icon in your forum editor and paste the link there. |
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day warranty. They have long term return and on-site service plans available, but they are a bit pricey so I opted out of those. For the price, if it works for a long time, it will be a good bargain and it makes working on bikes a lot easier.
