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Post by scooter on Jan 19, 2015 19:57:03 GMT -5
If when your riding it it runs good at around 7500 rpms that is where they make the most horsepower. If you have a tach on it the REDLINE will be marked starting at 8000rpms. Thanks. I just put on a new belt, variator, and weights. It's running better now but I haven't made a top speed run on it yet. I don't know what the RPMs are under load. I'll have to put that tach on the bike somewhere and see what I'm getting on the road. |
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Post by scooter on Jan 19, 2015 19:28:55 GMT -5
You are not explaining what is happening with the scoot. A 250 should be able to do 60+mph with no problems. So at Wide Open Throttle what happens does it the motor make any different sounds, like POPPING or BRAT sounds. If it has a tach what are the RPMS at wot. Alleyoop If you have a few minutes, could you look at these readings and this video I made of it running? That will probably be better than me trying to explain it with my limited technical vocabulary. itistheride.boards.net/post/83914/threadIt starts cutting out at about 7900 rpms at 2:40 in the video and again later in the fuel pressure test at about 8000 rpm at 6:03 in the video. When I am on the road it cuts out at about 45mph, or was, and I have to back the throttle off to make it stop cutting out. |
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Post by scooter on Jan 19, 2015 19:21:37 GMT -5
You are not explaining what is happening with the scoot. A 250 should be able to do 60+mph with no problems. So at Wide Open Throttle what happens does it the motor make any different sounds, like POPPING or BRAT sounds. If it has a tach what are the RPMS at wot. Alleyoop If you have a few minutes, could you look at these readings and this video I made of it running? That will probably be better than me trying to explain it with my limited technical vocabulary. itistheride.boards.net/post/83914/threadIt starts cutting out at about 7900 rpms at 2:40 in the video and again later in the fuel pressure test at about 8000 rpm at 6:03 in the video. |
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Post by scooter on Jan 19, 2015 18:39:54 GMT -5
I just put a new belt and variator on this 250 Qlink Communter Helix clone. This is the same bike I made the vacuum and fuel pressure test video on. It was running horribly at open throttle and wouldn't go over about 45mph. Now with the new variator it isn't cutting out like it was, although it still feels like it's on the verge. Now it does about 50mph or more, I didn't push it on these small streets, but it might do more. It did 46-48 up a fairly steep bridge. Do you think the new variator is loading down the engine more than the old one? Unless I accidentally made something right while pushing around on the air box, fixing a vacuum leak, I think it's just that the bike can't rev too high with this new variator on it, thus avoiding the rpm at which it would usually cut out. Before I put the new variator on, the engine did better when getting up to speed than it did once it was going faster. That is, it would cut out once it got going. Is this change in engine performance a clue to what is going on with this engine?
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Post by scooter on Jan 19, 2015 16:32:01 GMT -5
I don't know what rush hour speeds will be on my new commute. I don't start that job until tomorrow. Its possible that 65mph will be totally adequate and the Jonway could do the job. -About 20 miles (one way) of the new route will be toll road. The toll costs may be high enough that I take surface streets to avoid them. Its difficult to get a definitive answer on toll costs from their website. One of the tables on the website shows my toll would be $18 round trip. $18!!! Wow! |
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Post by scooter on Jan 19, 2015 3:48:45 GMT -5
Yeah, the frames are different... for one, the fuel tank on the 150's is in the hump, on the 250's it's under the seat. Better air flow for the radiator. Just an update: I have a 250 version of this bike now. It has the gas tank in the hump but a 250 engine in the back. The vin number matches the title which says it's a 250. I guess these things can in various setups unless this was modified and the titled rewritten to show the bigger engine. Someone has put a switch on the side of the seat area for a fan switch. When I get the scoot opened up I can see more. Maybe this is a hack job. |
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Post by scooter on Jan 18, 2015 13:03:00 GMT -5
Alright if no one else is going to rate it, I'll give it a rating. As it is with the current paint job on a 1 to 10 scale with 1 being John Wayne studly, and 10 being Ru Paul fabulous, I would give it a solid Pee Wee Herman 7. The only reason it didn't rank higher on the scale is because at least it isn't hot pink with tassels hanging off the handle bars. So it got me to thinking how I could tone it down on the scale to more of a Doctor Who 4 rating. It occurred to me to repaint the front fender. So I took the fender off and I think it really de-Ru Pauled the look and brought it down on the fabulous scale. Here's a couple pics. Thanks!    The green area on the nose is sort of Ru'd. Is that a beak? |
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Post by scooter on Jan 16, 2015 23:57:05 GMT -5
It really stunk but I had to drill a small hole in my right side panel to stop a crack from getting worse,,I plan on doing a little epoxy,scuff,and puff this spring on it,,guess i will grind out the crack a little and try to fill it with epoxy then sand and paint?? I use the two part plastic welding stuff from the hardware store. It's good for building up broken body tabs and filling stripped screw holes too. I liked the generic brand. The JB-weld brand was a bit soft. |
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Post by scooter on Jan 16, 2015 17:57:53 GMT -5
Alright guys,,, It was 39 degrees out here today so I bundled up and decided to got for a 20 mile break in rip.. I had jeans,ski pants over them,tee shirt,sweater,carhardt jacket,motorcycle jacket over top that i could barley zipper lol,my mask that covers neck ski gloves,and a full face.My hands and feet started to get a little cold by the time 20 miles was up..the rest of me was warm.So bundled up I couldn't even move except for twisting the throttle..lol The motor ran perfect,,the ride had a few big hills I kept it at 5K-5.5K 40 MPH most of the time,,sometimes I was at 4K and a few times I rolled it WOT and brought the R's up to 6.2K or so,,man its running awesome,,still breaking it in so cant wait! Im going to break this one in a little different than I usually do,,will go easy with it and see how it turns out. After its broke in I will do a top speed run on flat surface..see if I can catch Geh....I doubt it..lol I bought a wind breaker and a fabric jacket at Walmart, that I'm pretty happy about buying. The jacket brand is called FreeTech. It is thin, light weight, mostly water-proof, inexpensive, and very warm, especially when you put your hands in your pockets. It also has velcro wrist straps, pocket zippers to keep your things safe from falling out, and a lined front zipper. The wind breaker has an "S" and a star logo on the tag. It features a mesh liner. When I got in my wreck, it slid on the ground, and tore a little, keeping me from getting road rash on my back and shoulder. You can wear the hood inside your helmet too, nice on cold and rainy days. The matching wind pants have a waist cord, front pockets, and calf length, lined zippers, that can go over boots. Like the windbreaker, they are not enough alone for really cold riding, but they give you a thin and warm airspace, especially under something thicker. These two jackets go very well together. Both the jacket and the wind breaker zip all the way up onto the neck. You can be comfortable from at least the 40's, probably lower, and also be comfortable in an office. They are light, well fitting, easy to take on and off, carry around, and store, plus they look good on a bike. These people know how to make clothes that are practical. My latest addition is a full face, modular, helmet for really good comfort control in varied climates, like we have here in Florida, where it can be sunny and warm one minute, and cold and wet the next. It has an inner visor which is great for blocking unwanted sunlight. The flip up, locking, chin guard makes it easier to communicate with people as well. It's a little thick and heavy but it's full featured. The only thing it lacks is a heads up display with rear view camera. It's pretty inexpensive and comes with optional built-in blue tooth. I also have a pair of somewhat water proof, ankle length, hiking boots which, along with a rain suit, keep out most of the rain. This newer cfmoto I'm fixing up has wind guards on the sides. I am looking forward to taking it for a test drive in the cold. It has a windshield, of course, and the seats on these cfmotos are very comfortable. They have nice suspensions as well. I'm pretty happy with my set up. Now I just have to find some better gloves. These Mechanix Wear MPACT gloves have wrist straps, leather palms, and rubber backers that double as shield wipers. If they had a water tight skin on them, they would be more versatile but, for twenty odd dollars, they are a real deal. |
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Post by scooter on Jan 15, 2015 19:41:22 GMT -5
Alright guys so I''ll pick up that airbox tape after the weekend and see if that does anything and check back in. I'm really hoping it's not a carb issue simply because I have no experience working on engines in general, although it is probably time that I learn. I have some mechanical experience, I'm actually a rickshaw mechanic so I tend to have to fix things that don't necessarily have a specific right way to do it, so I'm always up for a challenge. I have watched some videos of removing and cleaning carbs, I'm just terrified of getting that deep into a project for the first time lol , if it comes down to that then so be it. Don't sweat the carb. They are simple and have few parts. Take pictures of all sides of the carb to make sure you can see what goes where, then take pictures as you remove parts. If you need to, look at the pictures as you put it back together. It's about a thirty minute job to take it apart, clean all the parts and spray carb cleaner through all of the holes in it, and put it back together again. The biggest problem I have is getting the sometimes very tight screws on the outside loose. Pliers come in handy for that. |
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Post by scooter on Jan 15, 2015 17:00:40 GMT -5
I opened up my air box and found a poorly fitting air filter. I poured some gasket goo around the lip of it, let it dry, bent the tang for a better fit, and put it on. It didn't solve my engine trouble but I'll be ordering a new filter anyway.
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Post by scooter on Jan 15, 2015 16:53:42 GMT -5
howdy, first post in this section but i only re-adjusted the angle of the windshield hoping to cure or at least help the turbulance issue. this was not on the bv350 but on the honda aero which got the windshield put on two days ago and test ridden yesterday in the rain. it's a work in progress to see if i want to keep it or trade it off. lotsa miles and smiles to ya ken I have to have a windshield, myself, or it's just too noisy and it rains a lot here. I've never thought about turbulence. It didn't seem to be something I had to deal with. My biggest issue is that they are always a little too short, and I have to duck down a little to get the full effect of a nice quiet ride without air hitting my helmet. |
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Post by scooter on Jan 15, 2015 5:56:12 GMT -5
scooterThat's why I'm hesitating on adding extra electrical equipment. The technical info for my wideband O2 kit I installed a couple weeks ago states a 3 amp-12v draw is necessary or the gauge will display an error. So far I have not had an issue with starting. But I have already decided to install an LED voltmeter to monitor the battery. I'm hoping it will fit in the factory instrument cluster. An O2 sensor sounds nice. It sounds like you have plenty of battery for the job. |
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Post by scooter on Jan 14, 2015 23:16:27 GMT -5
I was thinking a rocker switch would be more useful than a vacuum switch. Then I could wire it to a circuit that's activated with the key to prevent it pump when the scoot is off.  But with installing an electric pump, I'll worry about drawing to much current from the battery. Next a voltmeter to monitor the battery.  The one I ordered is about 1.2 amps. I don't know how my system will deal with it yet. |
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Post by scooter on Jan 14, 2015 23:06:40 GMT -5
The coldest I've been out in is 48 degrees. That was pretty easy with a full face helmet, track pants wind breaker over my jeans, and a warm jacket on. I want to try some cold weather but you know, what with Global Warming and all, it's in the 70s here most days, and in the 60s in the mornings.  My new vacuum and fuel pressure test is up and the video is up too, if anyone wants to look at it. Its mainly about a few layers , windbreakers and a full face helmet . when u get down to the low 20's and below your hands may start to hurt . I'm in the process of trying a new glove combo. All of the gloves I've used so far have been mainly cotton , and football gloves , no wind breaking material. Its funny the looks u get when its 12 degrees out and your getting on the scoot ,lol. Your legs are being the plastic so a pair of thermals and jeans work just fine for them . the upper body is the main part u want warm so I usually start with a long sleeve thermal then a T-shirt , hoodie , windbreaker and I have an insulated ecko vest that's a windbreaker , oh yeh and the mask under the helmet. I'm glad everything is going good, your probably dying to get her up to speed ,lol I'll have to check out the thread scoot . Good advice. I'll keep that in mind if it ever gets cold here again. I haven't seen a really cold winter since 2004. I took the air inlet off of the carb and hand modulated the air flow. Ran like a scalded dog when the flow was just right. I'll get it eventually.  One other clue I got is that, when I take the carb off, the intake is wet at the front. No idea why gas is there. |
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