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Post by scooter on Nov 20, 2015 1:58:34 GMT -5
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Post by scooter on Nov 20, 2015 1:50:00 GMT -5
Thats your Exhaust Stud, A Nut goes on it is 6mm They Love to Vibrate loose, Most Likely Leaking Exhaust now. Be Careful Not to Over tighten as you Will Break the Fragile Undersized Stud. A Lock-Nut will Work Beter than a Nut with a Washer and Lock Washer. What do you mean it is 6mm? Isn't that smaller than the one in the picture? Every exhaust nut I've ever encountered was 10mm. Chinese, japanese, italian, doesn't matter the make it's always 10mm. Plus the head doesn't matter, it's the threads on the inside that count. I think on my 150 they were 6mm, which I tapped out to 8mm, and on my 250 I think they are 8mm. |
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Post by scooter on Nov 20, 2015 1:48:26 GMT -5
Question to keep nuts from coming off would red lock tight be ok ? My Zodiac's have been a problem from day one .  I use lock washers on mine and check them occasionally when changing the oil. So far so good. |
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Post by scooter on Nov 20, 2015 1:39:39 GMT -5
ON MEASURING NUTS AND BOLTS:
Just to clarify, because all of this talk of measuring and carpenter's tools is confusing me, and I assume it will confuse others, and since I've done a a little work with threads, I'll lay it out for the layman. This is useful because you can't always take a bolt with you to the store.
That is a machinist's tool called a caliper, or calipers. Its not just for machinists but it's a standard machinist's tool and can measure inside, outside, depth, and step measurements on 8 different surfaces.
Threads are measured by two things, diameter and "pitch" or the distance between the threads. (There's more to threads but this is all you need to buy most bolts and nuts.) A 6mm x 1.0 means 6mm outside diameter, and 1.0 mm between threads.
Obviously a 6mm x 1.0 bolt won't fit with a 6mm 0.75 nut. Because it would be difficult to measure the difference between a 0.75 and a 1.0 thread directly, it's easier to measure several threads and divide that measurement by the number of threads. i.e. count 10 threads, measure that distance, then divide the measurement by 10. If the disatance between the tops of ten threads is 10mm, then you have a 10/10=1.0mm pitch. If it were a 0.75 pitch, ten threads would measure 7.5mm.
To measure a nut, use a bolt that works in it and figure the size and pitch of that bolt, or use a thread gauge, or do it manually as above, which is generally difficult to do, but can be done in a pinch. I think standard sizes for a 6mm are 1.0 and 0.75, and for an 8mm bolt the standard sizes are 1.0 and 1.25. The good news is that the size of the hole in the nut will be approximately the diameter of the bolt - the pitch, so a 6mm x 1.0 nut should have an inside diameter of about 5mm.
The reason measuring is useful is because sometimes you can't take a bolt with you, or because the nut or bolt threads are damaged and won't fit the correct bolt or nut they belong with. If you force them into the gauges at the stores you could damage the gauge or the fastener you have.
If anyone would like for me to do a write up on it and post it somewhere I'll be glad to, along with diagrams and pictures. It makes figuring out the sizes easy and also is good for tapping and dieing threads. I may have even done one already, I don't recall. I'll also cover inch size nuts and bolts as well.
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Post by scooter on Nov 17, 2015 11:22:30 GMT -5
Unfortunately, solar panels have to all be in the light to work properly, any panel in shade throws off the entire system. This can be worked around with lots of extra electronics, but even then the efficiency drops by huge amounts, and the price skyrockets. This is why electric cars are not covered in panels yet. But what if they didn't chain together the solar panels and instead hooked them up so they would be one-way and would all independently be providing power to the battery and engine? I mean we can do it in small scale projects like for portable solar chargers so why not with vehicles? Depends on how much power you need. Hook them up in parallel, get the panel area that's facing directly at the sun in square meters x 1,000 watts x .22 efficiency ( see here for details) and you have the wattage for a sunny place like Arizona. (Deduct a percentage of the watts if panels are not directly facing the sun.) So if you had one square meter of cells, that's 220 watts in best conditions. With 10 hours of direct sun, (which won't happen unless the cells can rotate with the sun) that's around 2200 watt/hrs. per day of available power, or 2.2 KWH per square meter of cells directly facing the sun at 22% efficiency in 10 hours or .22 kwh per hour. The battery on the unit at the top of the page is 1.6 kwh. It would take a little over 7 hours to charge that bike and go another 30 miles or so. You can double check the math in case I made a goof. |
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Police
by: scooter - Nov 17, 2015 11:05:29 GMT -5
Post by scooter on Nov 17, 2015 11:05:29 GMT -5
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Police
by: scooter - Nov 17, 2015 10:58:18 GMT -5
Post by scooter on Nov 17, 2015 10:58:18 GMT -5
Maybe i can get a discount on my bike insurance if i carry a spatula for cleaning up the poor misguided slobs that go down with wifebeater tees shorts and flip flops on,,,HEY!!! it could happen!!! Tell them you want a Flat Rate. lol |
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Police
by: scooter - Nov 17, 2015 10:56:51 GMT -5
Post by scooter on Nov 17, 2015 10:56:51 GMT -5
Watch out - Honda is working on some of that. Ducati is taking a different approach: However people who choose to be SQUIDS riding without any gear are basically doing nothing but sucking down on everyone elses already diminishing finances. Here is a guy who got off easy in a simple test ride around the parking lot at 20 mph and he is not a SQUID just took a chance on checking out his recent adjustments with a spin around his apartments parking lot without his gear: I'd love to see your videos but I'm getting an error for some reason, Rocky. |
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Post by scooter on Nov 17, 2015 3:57:58 GMT -5
I recently got a 2003 Bet & Win 250 in nice condition. Only thing bad is that the candy paint is faded a bit in spots, but the clear coat on top is still in great shape so it's not a big deal. Otherwise it looks very well cared for, the belt is like new, the rollers are barely used with some tiny flats on them, the muffler looks great, the plastics are in great shape too. I have eliminated most any corrosion/rust I found on it. Has about 20K miles on it but it starts and runs well, in a test ride around the parking lot. Seems very strong. I have to say the quality of just the body parts alone and the fit and finish are much nicer than the Chinese bikes I've had, and the gauge cluster has excellent features like engine temp and rpm as well as a battery meter and some other stuff like ambient temp. Also has dual disk brakes. I don't plan on riding it, but it's a nice bike. I don't care for a high seat and open floor design, plus I'm too tall for it, but I can see why people like the Kymcos. I'd say it's in good to excellent condition. It looks pretty much like this picture:  MSRP for a new one is $3,999. I haven't found this year and condition of bike for sale to get a price that's reasonable to ask. How much do you guys think I could get for it? |
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Post by scooter on Nov 15, 2015 0:55:45 GMT -5
Sorry to hear it, bro. It's been a rough year for several of us here on the forum. Seems like someone is in a wreck every month or two. Get well soon!
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Yet
by: scooter - Nov 15, 2015 0:46:31 GMT -5
Post by scooter on Nov 15, 2015 0:46:31 GMT -5
I was listening to the radio news today. The news man was telling about an armed robbery. The lady cashier got shot. The doctors saved her life but the bullet is in her yet. Where is a woman's yet? It's next to the still. |
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Post by scooter on Nov 14, 2015 20:37:08 GMT -5
I don't have an educated guess. I don't know the pipe diameters or lengths, the dimensions of the inside of a 150 exhaust, or how exhausts work on a deeper level than "air comes out of that hole". There are issues with pressure and inertia of flow, etc that I don't know anything about. As usual though, I believe there's more to it than "more air is better".
According to wikipedia, you'll get some difference when you change the design of the pipes, like more power at low rpm, or more power at high rpm, increased fuel use, etc.
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Post by scooter on Nov 14, 2015 11:22:25 GMT -5
While i agree in theory, in fact I pay $109 per year for insurance on my 150cc. I doubt it could get much cheaper even if everyone had to have ATGATT in order to start their engine. Instead, I just think of Darwin! Yes, and we're already tempting Darwin just by riding these bikes alongside dumb people in SUVs.  |
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Police
by: scooter - Nov 14, 2015 11:19:03 GMT -5
Post by scooter on Nov 14, 2015 11:19:03 GMT -5
While i agree in theory, in fact I pay $109 per year for insurance on my 150cc. I doubt it could get much cheaper even if everyone had to have ATGATT in order to start their engine. Instead, I just think of Darwin! Where I live it costs about that to insure the scooter and have liability however because of all the gearless riders it adds $2,000 to $4,000 per year to the policy if you want Personal Injury Protection. Health insurance companies are reacting by listing riding as an extreme activity that is not covered while health insurance that covers riding if you do wear the mandatory riding gear is more expensive now. Because of a few free thinkers mouthing off about peoples rights to decide for themselves whether they should wear safety gear when they ride it has become so that that vocal few has decided for the silent majority that everyone now has to pay extra for Personal Injury Protection Insurance when they ride. I would not mind if the anti-gear bigmouths paid for their poor choice on their own dime however they in effect have put their hands in every riders pocket to pay for their poor choice. Those that get Darwin awards still drive our costs up since someone has to pay to retrieve the bodies and clean up the mess they make of things in their final moments. I would prefer if the insurance companies just all lowered the rates as if everyone wore their gear and then universally denied personal injury protection coverage and death benefits to any rider who gets injured or dies riding without helmet, gloves, riding jacket, long pants and riding boots. The downside is that those folks that are determined to ride unprotected would become wards of the State with the burden paid for by our taxes. I took care of HUD Handicapped Housing and way too many of the handicapped residents were gearless riders that ended up disabled due to injuries in motorcycle accidents from lack of head or back protection. The dead still cost us for the evac and interment while the rest who had either no insurance or were denied insurance coverage for the lack of wearing gear in effect become wards of the state so we end up paying for their rent, groceries, clothes, daily meds, visiting nurses, home care aids, etc, etc. Most really do not realize what people who throw caution to the wind cost us when we end up paying for the treatment of their preventable injuries. It would be hard to even calculate that accurately unless all police and medical responders accurately recorded each incident following set criteria and put these folks into a nationally accessible database. I suppose it might be the insurer that decides whether or not to charge less if you promise to wear ATGATT, and I think all bikes should have a roll cage, air bags, seat belts, and 4 wheels, plus we have to wear an iron man type suit made of steel so our limbs don't get crushed or twisted in a wreck. If people aren't willing to do that to be safe then they are costing me more in my insurance and that's not fair. /sarcasm. I don't think it's fair to declare that our standard of safety should be everyone's unless we're willing to go all the way and put on everything that that some random person decides is enough for them. But yes, you should get an insurance break for every piece of armor and roll bars and such that you use when riding your bike. Armor and options could have several safety categories, from "squid" to "iron-man" class. How's that sound? |
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Post by scooter on Nov 13, 2015 15:38:50 GMT -5
When I am running full throttle for longer than like 5 seconds it bogs down kind of jerks and slows down until I lay off the throttle. I've been all through the entire scooter and nothing seems to be wrong besides the fact the main jet is a tad too big. Could this be coming from the jet being too big or maybe I am not getting enough fuel? I am using 1/8 diameter fuel lines. Should I be using 1/4? I have a manual petcock, not vacuum operated. It goes very fast and otherwise has no other issues. I can still cruise easily around 40-45 but if I go faster and use more than about half throttle it jerks and bogs down, also happens when I let the throttle go down from full throttle so it is confusing. I'm not sure if it means I am running lean or rich because the symptoms point to both? I am running a gy6 139qmb with 50mm cylinder, big head with big valves, 24mm carb, 8g variator weights, stock clutch and variator, bando belt, stock exhaust, uni air filter, ngk plug, orange coil, gold casoli CDI, gaps at 0.004, added crank vent to the dipstick with oil catch can, still within the first 100 miles of break-in of the engine, brand new and rebuilt by me. It sounds like lack of fuel. |
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