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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 12, 2014 23:03:25 GMT -5
Only a  MJ with a Uni ? I used a  MJ on my Air Sal with the air box . You can tune the CVT like with lighter rollers or even better sliders and stiffer clutch springs to have a faster takeoff . Make sure to change the gear lube too . What size tires does it have on it ? I went with a size up taller tire on the rear and I like it . Most come with crappy tires and any premium tire even the same size with be an improvement . |
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 12, 2014 0:43:54 GMT -5
You may can use a 40/45w lo/hi bulb . Replace the running and dash bulbs with LEDs should free up a sip of juice . Too high of wattage like 55 watts can melt the bulb housing and fry the stator . I use a LED for the tail light and seemed like it added a hair more lumens to the headlights . My Magnum has dual 35w that both work at the same time . Some of the newer scoots with two headlights are one at a time as one is hi the other low instead of working as a pair .
My Echarm had a single 35w with two tiny helper lights ( like those used on a Christmas tree ) but it ran off the battery instead of the stator . I love how it stays the same regardless of RPM unlike those powered by the stator dim or brighten up with RPM changes .
My scooter dealer who has a CFMoto Glory replaced his headlights with HIDs but wired it to where lo is always on and hi is switched so that both are on at hi beam instead of switching out . Looks cool but the blue hue blinds me as I hate oncoming cars with them especially in the rain .
If you get a battery that has more amps you may try LED cornering lights powered by the battery via a fused switch . You may need to get a trickle charger to keep the battery charged or upgrade your stator to one with more poles since they put out more watts . I had a Harley behind me with additional lights that were so bright I could right at night by using his lights alone . Scooters do not put out as much wattage compared to almost any motorcycle . You could have a 2nd battery under the seat to power additional lights . A buddy used a riding mower battery to power a radio but had to use a battery charger instead of the stator . Keep the lens clean and use a 99 cent pack of bulb grease from any auto part store to prevent corrosion on the connections . I am told Corrosion X is a good product to use on electrical connections . I also use Scotts Anti-Fog on my headlamp lens , face shield , mirrors and eye glasses from CycleGear as it is so darm humid in SC .
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 12, 2014 0:07:04 GMT -5
MHR was the first place I saw to have that kit but much more money . After a " secret 63 " piston crack and another that went to pieces I did some research and joined the old place . I was suggested that kit and how lucky was I that my dealer just happen to have two of em . I told him I did not want another piston kit that crapped out on me . I have had around 30 moped to street bikes , drove em like I stole em and never once had a piston failure .
When I sold my TaoTao with the Air Sal 50mm to a friend of a friend who blew up his scooter , he had the cash in my hand before he came to a stop from the test ride . Way more takeoff and uphill power but the same top end speed .
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turbo scoot
by: skuttadawg - Apr 11, 2014 23:59:07 GMT -5
Post by skuttadawg on Apr 11, 2014 23:59:07 GMT -5
What size carb and jets ? Yes more air means you need more fuel . How many PSI of boost does it build up to ? Do yours have the oil cooled bearings ? May need and electric auxiliary oil pump if so . With a BBK compression is higher and may be too much to turbo as cars with a turbo often have compression ratio of 8 to 1 . Performance cars often are 10 to 1 and up to 12.5 to 1 . You may want to get a spacer on the bottom of the cylinder which would be better than using an extra gasket . I talked to my dealer who is master guru on scoots and he built a 188 GY6 with 63mm bore and a stroker crank . He said the compression was 230 PSI . He told me there is more variants of the Gy6 than I though as his has a thicker block and did not need to be bored . I would check out the head from Scrappy that is ported and larger valves here on the top of the page headI would love to see where the turbo is and I am pretty sure you had to make a custom exhaust . Does it have a blowoff valve ? You may want to get an EFI kit like this one made for a small turboed engine here EFI kitThe boost may harm the piston and crank bearings . On Brents site I saw a thread where a guy wants to use a Honda XR 80 piston from Wiseco since it is machined out of billet and forged twice instead of cast like most are . Wiseco They cost way more but made in America and worth the extra . I will look it up and see if he got it to work . I used a Wiseco piston in my Honda CR125 and I was impressed how much better it was than the Honda piston . Here is the wildest scooter I have with a turbo , nitrous , wicked paint job along with Alpine radio and tv . I think the turbo setup is mostly for looks as the video only has it idling and revved up but not riding |
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 11, 2014 23:10:40 GMT -5
Yep you are right as I looked up stators for your Adley and there are not like yours but like the others you mentioned and yowee expensive . Could it have been replaced by the previous owner ?
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 11, 2014 22:36:19 GMT -5
I had the tires mounted today and WOW so much better than the stock tires . I can really tell the diff as they are reinforced instead of just bias ply . They are not balanced yet very smooth with no shimmy at all . Braking is amazing as I can stop faster than a Porsche . I have rear disc unlike most . The stock tires I could stress them to where it was spinning under braking . With the Michelins it can literally throw me off of the seat . Brakes are even better than my Echarm which are perfect as my Magnum is over kill , but stopping is great and I do not have tranny drag as a 2T coasts .
My dealer said Bike Bandit uses the same wholesaler as they do but BB retail is cheaper than the wholesale price they were offered . I guess they do a much larger sales amount since my dealer only sells in person instead of online .
I can fell the diff with a taller tire but some how it seems wider even though bought are 130mm . I will measure to be sure .
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 10, 2014 22:23:46 GMT -5
Most of the sponsors sell decent tires but I wanted some high end ones . I had a few places bookmarked and several shops in town but they only had a single generic and a Shinko at another and I had to have a matched set . The factory tires are the street knobbies like on a Zuma , Ruckus and others . When new it had a lil knobby bounce ( like if you ever road a minibike or MX on pavement you know what I mean ) which I liked as I miss the good ole days of riding in the trails . It was not a suspension bounce like other scoots I have ridden this way very manageable . With wear the front tire would knobby bounce in hard turns if zooming . The rear since it worn down the middle to being slick , the sides had plenty of meat so it ride weird and some times slide if I pushed it but nothing like drifting . So I looked for tires all over and hands down Bike Bandit BB had the selection , prices and my favorite FREE shipping for orders over 99 dollars . I narrowed it down to three sets since 110 was my budget . I had nothing but love from Dunlops on my street bikes but they were more than I could afford . I learned when I was 17 and needed a rear tire on my Suzuki GS550 which a Dunlop but again more than my lawn cutting wages had in my pocket . I bought a " " Cheng shin tire and man it sucked . I used to be able to push it so hard in the turns I could scrape the pegs , but with the CS I could drift , this time like on Fast and The Furious . Hard braking it would spin under the stress and dang sure not a wet tire . I did a burnout with the front brakes at WOT and double clutching all threw 3rd gear and I let off . Left a blackmark way over 100 feet . I later replaced it with a Dunlop like it had and was happy and safer . I was really hyped about Pirelli SL26s and Avon Viper Strykes as I heard they were great and both had my size , 130/60/13 , and was a F or R tire as many are specific to one end . I have heard and saw on my scooter dealers on scoot where a R tire was placed on the F but backwards . To me this sounds nuts since they do not match and if the cords are wound to go one direction I think the cords would be more likely to fail . My scooter dealer showed me in a catalog various tires like Michelin Puresport SC which have a higher load bearing , P rated which means up to  MPH and hard compound in the middle with softer shoulders . I wanted to laugh when he said they were 87 a piece . I wanted to get 2 R tires since both tires on my scoot are the same size but they were out of stock . I bought the F in my size but opted for a 130/70/13 R which was taller and a fraction wider , but some how 7 dollars cheaper . I doubled checked and have plenty of room to even went with 140 on the R . The front fender may have scrubbed if I put on a 70 sidewall on . I have removed the rear inner fender long ago . Many motorcycles and some scoot have a tall and skinny tire on the F with a shorter and wider on the rear , which works out great for the cruiser bikes . My Echarm it had too much weight on the R as when I hit over 65 it would get weird and has shimmied at 75 MPH the top speed . I got a warning ticket for going 72 MPH on the interstate by a cool HP who curious what kind of " moped " went that fast . I am pretty sure a shorter F and or a taller rear would fix that quirk . The factory CS tires had a zig zag pattern in the middle which had a shimmy sensation when going over uneven patches and defects on the road surface . The Shinkos I got have a straight line in the middle and sooooooo much more stable and comfortable ride . With the CS if I removed a hand from a grip it would want to wobble , even going slow . The Shinko I could ride with one with ease . For example moving the face shield or giving a one finger salute to a cager . My 2T I could ride with no hands in a turn and not be worried as it felt so secure . I balanced the tires on my Echarm which really smoothed it out but still was not as stable as my unbalanced tires on my 2T a Jonway Magnum . The knobby effect had worn off as I wanted a smooth performance tire . Michelin makes great tires for many vehicles . They have a few plants and offices in my area . I know they x ray every tire as they have a QC inspection at each phase of construction . I have had Michelins on some cars and the ONLY one I ever had for a two wheeler , a Tomos Golden Bullet , blew the cords out of the sidewall in less than 1/4 of a mile . Yes it was properly inflated . I took it back cussing and got another tire . I just got my new tires delivered this evening and I am impressed with the look , feel and quality of construction . I will R&R my wheels and let my dealer mount the tires to the rims . I lost my tire spoon set and do not want to damage my aluminum rims since my dealer has the shop equipment just like at car tire shops but sized for scooter tires . NEVER let a car shop use their equipment on scooter wheels as it will destroy them . Yes I know my scoot will never hit MPH but I prefer to get tires and batteries beyond what the manufacturer suggests to be safer . With a taller gear set I hope to hit 70 down a giant hill  Once again THANK YOU to JR for suggesting BikeBandit in a members thread a lil while back . |
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 9, 2014 19:59:53 GMT -5
I have an Echarm and you need to have it on the center stand on level ground . Most you remove the dipstick and push it in but not turn it to get the lever , however ours need to be screwed in all the way then unscrewed according to my dealer during the PDI ..
You will need to remove the mirrors and blinkers in order to remove the grill where the radiator is . Make sure it is not hot to avoid getting burned . Often you can just squeeze a hose to see if it is full . Also check the reservoir in the front access panel .
We should have that manual here as I emailed it to an admin . If not I check my links or if you PM me I can email it you .
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 8, 2014 0:11:10 GMT -5
I was thinking he may be overjetted too . I tried out some large MJ when I put a BBK on my 2T with Uni and racing pipe but it sputtered instead of bogging . I went down to a smaller MJ and one the third time it ran like a champ . A Uni or K&N type of airfilter ? Did you oil the airfilter ?
how did it run with the stock exhaust ?
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 7, 2014 23:20:01 GMT -5
I had a TaoTao ATMa and it was a after being used to Honda and Europeans . I love my Sheinke aka Jonway model Magnum . I have not owned or ridden a Znen but I heard they are in the middle quality , better than cheaper other China scoots but not as good as Japanese or Italian .
I hope you get some disc locks , heavy cable or vynil wrapped chain to lock it up . I had full coverage on my Echarm when it was new as it had a MSRP of 2,600 . Thrives tend to steal scoots with a moped tag since often they are not registered unlike the 150s which are required to be registered and insured . Some home owner and some rental insurance may cover a theft from your home . I use two disc locks ( a lock that goes through the cooling holes on the brake rotor to prevent the wheel from turning ) , a very thick cable from CycleGear to wrap through both scoots around a support beam , heavy shorter cables with a round key instead of blade type for travel and I use Master Lock ubolt locks through the wheels . The ML ubolts are way larger than the standard shackle on a pad lock and it is forged steel . I use to ride Canondale mountain bikes which cost 500 and up so I first used a ML ubolt on them . I bought two , one to use the other to test . I broke the jaws on bolt cutters when I tried to cut the shackle , it took forever to cut with a hacksaw , and it warped and ground off teeth on a Sawzall ( reciprocating blade type of saw ) . They also use a round key . NEVER get a combination lock as I can unlock everyone I tried by just twisting a pulling on it until it opened .
Yes it is a lil of a hassle to use many locks but it is better to keep my scooter as many are stolen where I live . I like to park near a buggy return bin at stores since often there is nothing to cable or chain up to . I have used a buddies scooter to secure mine with since no way could two people lift them both up and load onto a truck or van . Power tools make a lot of noise but not as much as my skattergun
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 7, 2014 21:44:47 GMT -5
Played 1 of course it is not a simple bolt on mode as I would think it would take lots of trial and error for the first time installing the kit . Does yours use a regular CDI or is it controlled by the ECU ?
If it was running bad and it was not a fuel issue then perhaps the engine needs some TLC to have it running good first .
Pepboyjoe how would you say starting , performance and MPG are compared to when it had a carb . My Echarm came with an older Ducatti EFI from the factory and is my first EFI toy . I must say it is like a rocket and throttle is very more responsive than my buddies who have a 150 with a carb . I have read many carb woes like clogged jets , sealed air/fuel screw and more . My Echarm I never give it any throttle to start and idles the exact same regardless if it is 17 degrees or over 100 . I only have used a sip of SeaFoam to keep it clean in the lines and nozzle . After riding mine and many other 150s I must say EFI excels in every category .
Played1 I will see if I can dig up some older threads on SD about installing the Econtrons EFI kit . Do not give up as it will well worth the headache once you get it dialed in .
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 7, 2014 21:33:16 GMT -5
Around 120 PSI . I had a wristpin come out one night and it went from running great to a sputtering death and would not start . I bought the engine compression gauge from Harbor Freight for 20 dollars . It read PSI . When I removed the head I saw how bad the clip ate up the soft aluminum head and piston dome . I shaved down the real bad areas and bought a new BBK . I put on the new piston and tried to the old block just to see if it would work and after 3 tries I took it off and put on the new head a cylinder after lubing up the piston and rings . I started the first time and compression was 165PSI . I only had it run for a few seconds and gave it a sip of throttle to see if it would rev up . I had the pipe off as to why I did not run it but for 10 seconds . A warmed up engine should give a higher PSI reading than a cold one . Make sure to screw in the adapter tight and have the throttle at WOT ( wide open ) before hitting the starter button . Rings do not last that long on a 2T so if you have many miles and compression is low new rings and a head gasket will perk it up . Depending on wear you may need a new piston also and might as well install a new one while it is apart . You can get a rough idea by pushing down the kickstart by hand with the sparkplug in it and again with it removed a finger over the sparkplug hole . Old gas can gum up the tiny holes in the jets so I would remove the carb bowl and unscrew the idle jet and main jet . Use any carb cleaner spray and a stiff solid wire to poke through the holes . If it has an oil injector is the tank full of oil ? Some have a kill switch in the float level of the oil tank to prevent running it while put of oil . Remove the sparkplug and lay it against the head or frame to get a ground and see if it sparks . Cheap 2T oil can easily cause oil build up on the plug and cause it to foul out . Carb spray and a piece of sand paper folded over can clean the electrode and prong . May need the gap reset too . Reeds can go bad to and cause it not to run . The reeds and on the bottom end of the intake inside the case . |
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Specs
by: skuttadawg - Apr 7, 2014 14:32:18 GMT -5
Post by skuttadawg on Apr 7, 2014 14:32:18 GMT -5
The engines are 139QMB as all China scoots have the same one
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 7, 2014 14:06:44 GMT -5
this applies to many
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 7, 2014 13:58:43 GMT -5
I also like " Crazy train " by Ozzy
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MJ with a Uni ? I used a 
MJ on my Air Sal with the air box . You can tune the CVT like with lighter rollers or even better sliders and stiffer clutch springs to have a faster takeoff . Make sure to change the gear lube too .
MPH and hard compound in the middle with softer shoulders . I wanted to laugh when he said they were 87 a piece . I wanted to get 2 R tires since both tires on my scoot are the same size but they were out of stock . I bought the F in my size but opted for a 130/70/13 R which was taller and a fraction wider , but some how 7 dollars cheaper . I doubled checked and have plenty of room to even went with 140 on the R . The front fender may have scrubbed if I put on a 70 sidewall on . I have removed the rear inner fender long ago . Many motorcycles and some scoot have a tall and skinny tire on the F with a shorter and wider on the rear , which works out great for the cruiser bikes . My Echarm it had too much weight on the R as when I hit over 65 it would get weird and has shimmied at 75 MPH the top speed . I got a warning ticket for going 72 MPH on the interstate by a cool HP who curious what kind of " moped " went that fast . I am pretty sure a shorter F and or a taller rear would fix that quirk . The factory CS tires had a zig zag pattern in the middle which had a shimmy sensation when going over uneven patches and defects on the road surface . The Shinkos I got have a straight line in the middle and sooooooo much more stable and comfortable ride . With the CS if I removed a hand from a grip it would want to wobble , even going slow . The Shinko I could ride with one with ease . For example moving the face shield or giving a one finger salute to a cager . My 2T I could ride with no hands in a turn and not be worried as it felt so secure . I balanced the tires on my Echarm which really smoothed it out but still was not as stable as my unbalanced tires on my 2T a Jonway Magnum . The knobby effect had worn off as I wanted a smooth performance tire .