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Post by falstaff on Nov 17, 2015 13:50:06 GMT -5
For that price around here (AZ), I could get a used 600cc Silverwing, 400cc Bergman or Majesty. Used for sure but still with lots of life in them and I would have cash left over to address any issues.....just saying...
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Post by falstaff on Nov 12, 2015 15:25:55 GMT -5
Does anyone know if the Rokete Bali 150cc and the Bali 250cc share the same frame? They appear to be the same size touring scooter frames.
I have a friend who has a running Bali 250cc with trashed plastics. I have a Bali 150cc with nice plastics. I was wondering if either I can move my nice plastics to his frame or strip his 250 and just upgrade my motor/cvt etc to his motor/cvt?
I know this has been somewhat covered but if they are the same frame would that not simplify the proceedure? Not looking to open a can of worms here... |
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Post by falstaff on Nov 20, 2014 11:59:20 GMT -5
The baby on the womans back is real, but the one in the bucket is photoshopped in. I've seen that pic before without the baby in the bucket.
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Post by falstaff on Nov 13, 2014 13:21:22 GMT -5
Close but They appear to only have 3 pin connectors. I need a flat 4 pin connector. But thank you.
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Post by falstaff on Nov 13, 2014 12:47:06 GMT -5
So, I'm tooling along on my scooter this weekend when I notice smoke coming from the hi-lo beam switch on the left side of my handle bars. I pulled over and it appears the switch has gone south but strangley, the headlight still work fine, I just can't switch to hi beams.
When I got home I pulled the swith and the molex connector was melted. I'm thinking something, dust or what not, had gottten in there and shorted the switch across the poles. I have a spare switch, but do I need to worry about shorting the new one out as well? Where can I find another plastic connector plug to wire in the switch?
This is a 2008 Roketa Bali MC-13-150 scooter.
Thanks in advance for any help.
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Post by falstaff on Oct 29, 2014 11:11:46 GMT -5
The 600cc model. This:  |
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Post by falstaff on Oct 24, 2014 12:18:17 GMT -5
Silverwing
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Post by falstaff on Aug 10, 2014 23:44:18 GMT -5
So, been about 2 weeks since I last posted an update. But I have been working on the Scooter.
I got the rear break issue sorted and put back on the rest of the plastics, some of which had been off since the former owner had received it in 08/09ish. One issue I found was that with the heat here in AZ, some of the plastics were slightly warped and it was a struggle to get everything to fit again. But I persevered and got it all together again.
All seems to work as it should and I was even able to take it out for a test drive back and forth on the street where I reside. I kept it nice and easy as even though it was not "new" it still will need a break in period. So I took it to no more than 25mph, as an average, though I did top it out at 30mph. Odometer now has 2/10ths of a mile on it.
I'll title and tag it this next weekend. There are still some little niggles to work out. For one the mirrors are just not cutting it. So some replacements will be going on it soon.
I would like to take this opportunity to thank you all for your patients and advice. I appreciate the community spirit. Thank you.
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Post by falstaff on Jul 20, 2014 10:23:24 GMT -5
As good a source as any and I have a Lowes and an Ace hardware store within a half mile of my home. Thanks for the noggin' joggin'.
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Post by falstaff on Jul 19, 2014 14:42:24 GMT -5
Horn, alarm system w/auto start all now working. For the the auto start to work, the run/kill switch has to be in the run position so not sure what the big deal is...but it all works now.  Looks like I may be missing some screws. Notably the ones that hold the windshield on w/the rubber washers that probably should be there and most of the screws that hold the front faring (sp) on. I looked on Scappy and a few other scooter part sites but didn't see the articular one used on this model. Anyone have a source for these? |
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Post by falstaff on Jul 16, 2014 13:27:58 GMT -5
I did. Swap brake handles that is. It's strange but there is a slot on the edge that contacts the swith on both, but nothing in the slot. Hmmmm?!
I have already ordered a replacement. But thanks for the heads up. Scrappy has great items at great prices. Just saying.
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Post by falstaff on Jul 16, 2014 8:44:23 GMT -5
By the way, switched the right brake switch cable to the connector for the left brake switch cables and now the scoot starts off the right brake lever. Another clue it's deffinately the left side switch that is the issue.
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Post by falstaff on Jul 15, 2014 21:05:20 GMT -5
Actually, I was able to get the engine to start electrically now. It was the old brake switch on the left side being gone. I can start it fine with the starter button now.
But as I stated in my last post, I am now dealing with the old brake light being on all the time thanks to the left brake switch ( I have narrowed it down to that one). I have tried 2 different switches from Scrappydog and have concluded that the handle is not contacting the switch in order to turn off the light when the brake lever is at rest, not squeezed.
Funny thing is that if I slide a small screw driver into the space between the handle and the switch, the light goes out. So, that is my conclusion, bad contact between handle and switch. I even lubricated the switch piston to no avail. I guess I could shim it somehow, but how long would that last and would it pass inspection?
If anyone has any suggestions, I would love to hear them. Right now I'm thinking replace the left brake master cylinder with one that has that box style switch. Any Idea?
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Post by falstaff on Jul 13, 2014 21:07:07 GMT -5
Latest update. Scooter running nicely now. I even hopped on it and rode it around the back yard today.  Both brakes are working well now, but the rear brake is giving me fits a la the switch. I have tried several switches and they all exhibit the brake light on all the time issue. Something having to do with the brake handle not reaching the barrel switch piston. Going to try to shave or file away at the tabs that lock the switch in place to see if I can get the switch piston further into where it attaches to the master cylinder. If that doesn't work then I will just go with a whole new master cylinder with the box type switch. Any ideas??? Ordering a new horn as I cannot get the original to work. Have installed new tires. Looking at not doing the wiring harness till another time. Think I'll just break out the hot glue gun a reinforce the connectors that are showing wear. Question. If I want h4 or LED headlights, do I just hard wire them in or is the an adapter/connector? Had a wind storm the other day that blew the fiberglass(?) nose cover over and one of the mounting tabs broke off. Any suggestions on a fix? Thanks to all. |
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Post by falstaff on Jul 9, 2014 17:18:08 GMT -5
That last linked thread was very informative. Thank you!
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