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Post by roy on Sept 6, 2017 14:33:13 GMT -5
Hi again All! This is the same 2T scooter in my earlier post that has been "revving." Piston guy was right, in that we found the bottom of the piston burred and 2 areas of the bottom side of the piston concave. The cylinder has some scoring. And, we found one ring NOT seated correctly. And - it's a 80cc Bore Kit.
History: guy buys the scooter and told it only needs a carb. They ask us to repair stating that they only replaced the carb. Once we get it started, it Revs - Later we find out his "mechanic" uncle also replaced the jug. I ask them to bring it the old parts. Their jug is way worse, burnt, rings seized, etc.
So - here's where I am all ears. Do I replace the jug kit (P4S 169-405) "correctly" and "all" should be fine?
Or ---- is there something I (my mechanic) should be thinking about here???
My point, did the uncle probably not seat the ring correctly or, did he maybe do it all correctly and there is something else causing this -- Like what?
THANKS!!! Roy
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Post by roy on Aug 30, 2017 17:05:59 GMT -5
Well Piston Guy, looks like you got it on your first answer.
I found out from the customer that they had put a 47mm bore in it. So, my mechanic was thinking they put the piston in upside down .... Turns out the cylinder is scored and the bottom of the piston is rough with little burrs. The top of the piston had a lot of carbon from never being on the road. It seems that maybe one of the rings was not seated correctly.
Any more comments or thoughts from anyone are appreciated. Thanks! Roy
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Post by roy on Aug 21, 2017 14:18:18 GMT -5
Oh --- I just learned something (I think) --- again, I mainly know 4T's. But, now I've read 2T's need a vacuum below the piston. So - a seal would screw that up. My mech. will probably know this, just did not put it together yet.
Am I thinking right? Other ideas? Again .. we have to cover the intake to start. It will idle a few seconds, then the rpms will start increasing. In 10 seconds it's like full throttle. Have to cover intake to stop it, kill switch, key will not work (they do at idle).
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Post by roy on Aug 21, 2017 13:17:01 GMT -5
Okay ... I bought some starting fluid and carb. cleaner to isolate the air leak. We'll see. BUT .... I just re-read my original Post, AND want to make sure my actual issue is known. The scooter is racing full rpms. Can only stop it by choking it.
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Post by roy on Aug 21, 2017 9:39:08 GMT -5
Thanks for the ideas. I will pass it on to the mechanic. RE: carb, my mech. also did put the original carb. back on, and gets the same issue.
In the meantime I took the idea of crank seals and with youtube, etc. seems like that would typically lead more to bogging down by bringing in too much air. But - crank seals, piston I will share with him.
Any other ideas!! ?? Hope we can get this thing done :-)
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Post by roy on Aug 18, 2017 11:38:45 GMT -5
I did a search and found some good suggestions here that I will relay to my mechanic later today. Just wondering if the cdi could be the culprit. Here's the story.
Customer brings in 2T 2013 Kymco Super 8 with 4200 km. States he purchased used and told it only needed a carb. They replaced that, road it 3 miles and it died. Could only restart with starting fluid, then the rpm's would max out.
We see the EGR tubes have been disconnected and blocked. We can get it started by blocking the air intake, and it'll idle but when you give it gas it will rapidly increase in rpms to running full throttle. Can not turn off with key or kill switch. Only shutting off air supply will stop it. We have checked for stuck float, tried his old carb and a new one.
At this point I will tell him what I found here, ie. check all vacuum lines, that bolts are tight, etc. He usually does these things first. We stopped last night with only the thought of could it be the cdi. I will have to order one. I do see pictures showing 8 wires and talk of cutting 1 or 2 to derestrict, etc. BUT ... the cdi on this scoot does have the 8 pins, however only 6 wires with the other 2 slots blocked.
Once source told me it will Not be the cdi, but looking for you guys thoughts and suggestions.
thanks!! Roy
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Post by roy on Aug 10, 2017 12:24:36 GMT -5
Thanks Piston Guy ... Looks like video #2 of that 3 part series will be helpful. Later I found out from the mechanic that there is an issue with some bolt/s and he plans to bring in a different tool. Looking at the video I may already have what he needs.
You helped me with a better understanding what he may need. Thanks! Roy
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Post by roy on Aug 7, 2017 17:44:37 GMT -5
Hi again for those in the know! :-)
Is there a link or source for me to get an idea of how long it'd take to replace the crankshaft in a 50cc Scooter 2T. My mechanic is experienced with 4T cranks, and a wiz with 2T carb's, top end, etc. With 4T we steer the customer to a new motor, but the 2T motor if/when I can find a new one is $$$$.
If there is not a good place to send me, can someone give the steps? Starting with splitting the case.
Thanks in advance. I "did" search here, but my searching talent sucks.
Roy
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Post by roy on Oct 27, 2016 17:15:20 GMT -5
1- I watched your video on parasitic draw. Interesting for future issue. This battery does not drain overnight. This was not this customer's concern.
2- Re: charging voltage --- scooter does Not start.
3- Are you saying disconnect the stator and see if wires still get hot and if it blows another fuse?
Note: We have just connected the wire without the fuse for short tests (hand on wires)
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Post by roy on Oct 27, 2016 15:46:46 GMT -5
I am still not good at searching on here as after an hour I did not find what I needed. Soooo -- I am seeking some help with a 50cc TaoTao ATM wiring issue.
Customer says the seller will not help. He brings the scooter in stating it will not start. It has 750 km on it, ran fine the first 500 then he could only kick start it. We find the fuse wire melted at the battery and all the wires just below the ignition connection melted and fuse blown. So - we electrical taped the wires and they still heat up (key on 20 seconds). We've tried a new ignition with same results. Battery is 12.5volts.
The thought is he needs a new wiring harness. But - I am wondering if it's some component. If so, I see us just melting the new harness.
Please tell me what you would try.
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Post by roy on Oct 26, 2016 8:51:40 GMT -5
Yeah - great idea, but Honda doesn't have it in stock. $100 to order and I was hoping to get a $40 used one .......
Any Honda guys out there to verify, I'll appreciate it. Later today I have someone coming in with the used 2009 -- and, we'll see. Just potentially delaying another day for this customer.
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Post by roy on Oct 25, 2016 16:34:26 GMT -5
After hours looking, here I am. We have a 2013 Honda Metropolitan that we want to replace the bent front wheel with a used one. Finding it is my issue. I found a few that say 2009, etc. A search shows 2013 - 2016 is manufacturer # 44650-GGL-305ZA and 2009 is 44650 -GBL-860ZA . I have written to eBay guys with no answer in 24+ hours. Sooo --- I call our Honda motorcycle/scooter place and they say it appears to just be a color difference as they both take the same bearings. I don't care about this, but do Not want to pay if it is not gonna work. The bent wheel I have here says it's J10x2.15 and  .5mm ID for the drum brake hub. So - here I am looking for an expert :-) Thanks in advance. Roy |
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Post by roy on Jan 2, 2016 10:27:57 GMT -5
Thanks Leo for the quick reply. -- We do the same things as your good suggestions. I am just hoping someone knows of some additional Taotao body plastic suppliers than Eagle, Scrappydog, ModCycles and Beast. My purpose is today I am looking for the 50cc Thunder model, but .... as a repair shop I am always buying and just trying to gain an additional supplier to fill the gaps for my needs.
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Post by roy on Jan 1, 2016 16:05:28 GMT -5
1st - As usual I am probably not posting in the correct place. and Happy New Year!
Now - Looking for some suggestions from owners, mechanics, etc. where to Find Taotao body plastics. I currently am a dealer with Eagle, Scrappydog, ModCycles and Beast; which are solutions. But - looking for others to compare :-) Thanks!!! |
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Post by roy on Jul 28, 2014 11:11:38 GMT -5
Yes it is. I just found your helpful diagram on "scooterworks" and left a voice mail with my Rep. there. It is not posted on their site. Re: cleaning, etc. --- My mech. that stopped in did all you said. He felt the spring may be the culpret as wll as the filter was clogged. But - his test using a drill to spin the shaft failed. Is there another way to test it that you can share? I've told my reg. mech. to put it back together and premix to see how everything runs. I can leave it with the customer like that, but would like to verify it's bad and provide him the cost. alleyoop |
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.5mm ID for the drum brake hub.