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Post by userix on Jan 27, 2015 14:31:05 GMT -5
I have a 5 wire connection on my harness. It has the same style connector as the full wave 6 pin above, but minus one wire in the four pin connector. How can I tell if it is full wave? The link to the 6pin regulator doesn't say full wave. Would the six pin r/r above work with my 5 wire setup?
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Post by userix on Jan 26, 2015 12:30:12 GMT -5
My led headlights do come with a led resistor/driver. They draw about 40w max. 20w per bulb. I do notice on the multimeter, my voltage would sometimes dip below 12v, like to 11v. I know it's not going to be perfect stable voltage, but should it be varying this wildly? It spikes up to 15.8 v sometimes during revs and at idle it dips down to 11v.
As for the stator I have a 11-pole that was recently installed. So the stator is pretty new and working correctly
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Post by userix on Jan 25, 2015 22:23:29 GMT -5
I'm not 100% how the rectifier works, but I know it charges the battery in the scooter.
1)Is there a difference between A/C and D/C rectifier? I know my bike has an AC stator.
2) Now when the bike is idling, the voltage fluctuates, around 14V, but sometimes it dips below 12 for a split second, and sometimes it spikes to 15.8V for a split second. Is this normal for the rectifier to do that?
3) I currently have a LED headlight system wired directly to the battery with an inline switch and I get this random flickering of the LED lights. It doesn't happen all the time and is not readily reproducible. The wiring is solid with no loose connections and everything is insulated properly. For the sake of simplicity, let's just assume the wiring the the LED headlights is perfectly fine, and the scooter battery is in good condition, could the randomly dipping and spiking voltage coming from the battery caused by a faulty rectifier?
The battery charges fine on the scooter and I never have a weak start, even if I leave the bike alone for weeks.
4) If my rectifier is indeed working correctly, what I can do to get a stable 12V power line where there is no fluctuations in voltage? Something like a 12V voltage regulator?
Thanks
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Post by userix on Jan 14, 2015 3:45:46 GMT -5
I recently replaced my oil seal behind the variator with a NGK GY6 seal and cleaned up the area around the variator. After riding for a few hours, I stopped and removed the CVT cover to find oil leaking near the same area. I made sure the seal is the correct size, is in perfect condition, and installed it properly, pushing the seal in until it is flush with the casing. When removing the old seal, I used a blind seal puller kit as to make sure not to damage the casing around the seal area. The crankshaft itself is in good shape, with no burs or uneven metal sticking out. What would cause a brand new seal to leak right away? I have previously seal the tensioner chain Allen bolt with silcone, so I know that is no longer a source of oil leaks, as it has leaked in the past. What is the part circled in black? There's some yellow epoxy type seal filled in that hole. Is that a possible source of oil leaking? (This picture isn't of my GY6, just a reference photo for the part in question)  |
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Post by userix on Jan 13, 2015 18:03:49 GMT -5
Yeah the crank seals are fine. I actually replaced a leaking one recently but before when it was leaking, there were no surges. As for the enriched, I actually sealed it off with jb weld a long time ago, so that's completely out of the equation. But I haven't had any issues riding back then. It could be the cold weather, which I assume colder air is denser which in turn leads to a leaner condition?
But the weird thing is that it doesn't always act up during my ride. It would only randomly surge at 2200 rpm at stop lights. As for my idle, even at 2200, my clutch isn't engaging or slipping. So it's not glazing my pads. I just find it awkward why it only randomly happens sometimes and not all the time, when nothing else has changed during the ride
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Post by userix on Jan 13, 2015 0:32:22 GMT -5
What would cause an erratic idling when there is no apparent air leaks anywhere from the air filter of the carb to the intake manifold mounting point? After the engine has warmed up, sometimes at a stoplight, my idle would be around 2200 rpm and sometimes it would drop back down to 1900-2000 range. Sometimes at stop, it might drop way below to 1500-1700 randomly, but it doesn't stall out and would return to normal 1900-2000rpm. But there is no consistency with the idling. Sometimes it would keep around 1900-2000 when at stop. The scooter runs fine and I don't experience any performance issues from acceleration to WOT top speed running.
The pilot A/F screw setting is set right and throughout the ride, I never touched the idle adjustment screw. The throttle cable is in good condition and there is no slack or loose bolts.
When I got home, I performed the carb cleaner spray test and I practically sprayed the whole carb and the intake manifold where the carb connects and also where it connects to the engine cylinder. And the idle remains perfectly fine with no apparent dips or speeding up of the idle speed. I have also opened the carb and cleaned out the jets and the inside. The diaphragm at the top of the carb is also in good condition, no tears or leaks there.
It's just weird because my scooter used to idle consistently in the past and now it would have random times where the idle would be erratic.
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Post by userix on Jul 30, 2014 3:21:02 GMT -5
Yeah, I figured if it was an overheating problem, I would notice the loss of power throughout the whole range. But it weird that it only happens after WOT and it seems to regain the low-end acceleration after I sit idling still for a few minutes, as if cooling down makes it return to normal acceleration power. So is it as if the clutch itself is overheating, in combination with a bad torque spring?
Is there any other causes of the engine being sluggish at low-end acceleration?
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Post by userix on Jul 28, 2014 13:34:31 GMT -5
Recently when I was riding around for a while, I noticed that after a good couple minutes of straight WOT, I lose a lot of low-end acceleration power/torque. It takes a long time to accelerate from a stop back up to speed. It's not the clutch or belt slipping, but the actual engine losing power, but it's only the low-end power that's weak. Once I get past 30mph, it continues to pull like it should normally without any power loss or hesitation. Only from a standstill, the acceleration is very slow. No bogging or exhaust popping noises, just overall flatter acceleration from stop.
Is this a sign of engine overheating? Like it's getting too hot? It was never like this a month ago and nothing really changed in terms of the engine and parts.
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Post by userix on Jul 4, 2014 13:04:50 GMT -5
First adjust the Valves, both to .004 inchs that is probably why it is more doggish after it gets hot. Then it needs a little carb fuel mixture tuning it has a little lag on it when you open the throttle. Alleyoop Thanks for the reply. Is it more doggish because the valves are too tight or too loose? I'll give that a try next |
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Post by userix on Jul 3, 2014 18:58:08 GMT -5
I am having a moderate loss of low-end torque/acceleration on my scooter. I recently replaced a new A7TC plug to fix a previous stuttering problem. The scooter pulls very well off the line when I ride it from a cold start. But after riding for 30 minutes, I lose a lot of low-end acceleration off the line (0-25 mph), but the mid and top-end acceleration is still very good (30mph and up). There are no backfires or popping on accel or decel and there are no leaks around the head gasket, the spark plug, valve cover and carb mounting flange.
Other than the loss of low-end torque/acceleration, the scooter runs fine. The jetting hasn't been messed with since it was running well last time. The CVT clutch and variator weights have not been altered/changed since it was last running fine. I inspected the belt and it looks to be in good condition. And from the video I posted above, it doesn't sound like the belt is slipping either.
The acceleration is so bad that I have problems pulling away from cars at a traffic light. I usually can accelerate much faster and not hold up traffic before.
What could be the cause of loss of low-end torque if nothing else has changed on the scooter except for a new spark plug of the same type?
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Post by userix on Jul 2, 2014 20:33:02 GMT -5
Here's a video of my recent ride. The engine stutters with each clicking noise. It sounds like it's coming from the carb/cylinder head area of the engine. What is this sound? No leaks on head gasket, intake manifold, or carb. Valve cover is properly sealed as well.
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Post by userix on Jul 2, 2014 4:05:13 GMT -5
To add to the stuttering problem I previously posted about, it happened after I performed an oil change using 10w-40 4T Mobil 1. I filled it approximately 0.9qt, I checked the dipstick for the correct level on flat ground. The level was fine, but after having done the oil change, I started experiencing the stuttering issue.
Can the engine oil cause the stuttering problem? Because the problem only started after I changed the oil.
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Post by userix on Jul 2, 2014 3:59:44 GMT -5
Ok. Now this is something weird I noticed. Here attached is a picture of two spark plugs that I have used.  The spark plug on the left is the stock A7TC plug I have been running perfectly fine in my engine with no issues whatsoever. I believe the chocolately brown color indicates that the jet tuning is pretty good, not too lean and not too rich. Now here's the weird part, I decided to switch the plug to a brand new NGK C7HSA (Cross-referenced plug for the A7TC stock GY6 plug) to see if there were changes in the performance of the engine. During my test rides, I noticed after long WOT sessions, I would experience very sluggish acceleration from a stand still. But top speeds and mid-range acceleration still remain great, no sluggishness at all. Also there is no popping on decel or backfires at all, so another sign it is not running lean. I then pulled the plug after letting the engine cool down and noticed the plug looks very dry and has white ash deposit on the tip (the NGK spark plug on the right). This, I assume is indicative of a very lean tuning or condition. I verified there were no leaks at the exhaust gasket area, the carb and intake manifold area, and the head gaskets on the cylinder body. Does this mean the plug is too hot of a heat range? Everything else on the engine remain unchanged. The carb tuning was left untouched as well. The valve cover has a small leak due to a worn o-ring gasket, but I wouldn't think that could affect the spark plug condition. Does the sluggish acceleration from a stand still be a result of really lean conditions? |
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Post by userix on Jun 28, 2014 15:59:35 GMT -5
Check the wires on the COIL make sure they are on tight and not loose also check the BOOT CAP make sure it is screwed onto the coil wire nice and tight. If not just get a new coil and plug cheap enough. If the wire is loose to the spark plug boot, can I just cut off an inch or so to expose fresh coil wire and thread that into the boot? |
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Post by userix on Jun 28, 2014 1:59:15 GMT -5
Have you checked the gap on the plug, you may have bumped it putting it in and the gap is to closed. Yeah, I checked the gap, it's still the same, I didn't bump it while putting it back. I mean, if the RPMs are reading correctly from the CDI right before it connects to the ignition coil, that should mean everything before the ignition coil is working correctly? So my problem has to lie either in the spark plug, spark plug boot, or ignition coil. |
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