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Post by userix on Aug 10, 2015 11:21:34 GMT -5
all stators are ac . Some electrical systems on scooters are mixed use ac and dc. To help figure out the problem you need to know what you have. What would help is pictures of the stators wiring and the regulator. What are you powering the tail light with ac or dc and where is it coming from? John I know my scooter is using an AC system and I'll try to trace it after work and get some pictures. What if I were to connect the tailight to directly to the battery through a switch relay? Would the direct DC power source (battery) make it stay constantly lit regardless of idle speed? I traced the ground wires and they are all secured to the frame. No breaks in the ground wires either. Looks like all connections are secure. |
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Post by userix on Aug 10, 2015 4:31:18 GMT -5
Today, when I rode, I noticed that when I first start the scooter cold, it idles RPM really low, and I watched as my taillight LED flicker on and off with each dip of the RPM. My headlights are wired directly to the battery with an inline switch and I don't notice any dimming at all, so it would seem my battery is fine.
Is it possible to have my tailights powered directly from the battery using a relay that is triggered off the key ignition switch?
I'm not sure how the GY6 AC electrical system is wired up. For instance, how is the turn signals powered and wired up?
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Post by userix on Aug 6, 2015 12:51:51 GMT -5
My LED headlights are actually directly wired to battery via relay and a switch and I experience no dimming or brightening with rpm. I have a voltmeter hooked up and the voltage never goes above 14.4v. It fluctuates between 13.2 to 14.4v. When I turn on the ignition before starting the engine, the battery shows 12.9v, which I assume is a healthy charged state.
Is it possible for the dimming of my license plate leds and turtlehead led tailights caused by a floating ground stator? I recently installed a stator that said on the bag is DC stator. But when I visually compared it with my old ac stator, they look identical. I read online that DC stators have a floating ground.
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Post by userix on Aug 5, 2015 11:15:25 GMT -5
Is it normal for AC fired GY6 ignition system to have the tail lights dim with dips in the RPM? I have a turtlehead LED tailight and I noticed recently that whenever my idle RPM dips, the tail light and my license LED lights dim. Is this normal? I thought the rectifier/regulator is supposed to keep a constant voltage output for the electrical components on the scooter. The R/R is functioning normally, as my voltage meter is indicating a voltage range that varies between 13-14.4 volts.
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Post by userix on Jun 28, 2015 14:22:22 GMT -5
Pardon the late reply. I took out the clutch assembly and checked. Everything is fine. No broken clutch spring or torque spring. I put it back together and now there isn't dust build up anymore. Weeks. I didn't cange anything or altered the configuration of the belt, variator , or weights.
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Post by userix on Jun 10, 2015 16:27:41 GMT -5
My variator doesn't have any Teflon coating. I'm starting to think it's from the clutch assembly and clutch pads. I noticed my take offs are somewhat jerky. Like the clutch grabs the bell almost instantly, than slips a few times before it solidly engages and I pull away. Clutch pad dust? But still weird why it would all gather inside the variator. Other than that I have no clue the source. Weights look fine, belt is fine, there is no Teflon coating, just simple stock variator
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Post by userix on Jun 6, 2015 17:50:08 GMT -5
Does your CVT cover have a filter, and if so have you modified it? There is usually an exhaust hole at the rear of the CVT, if you have one is it clogged? Only way to check belt wear over such a short time frame is with a micrometer. It is possible you got an older belt that is dried out, so keep an eye on it. Filter is what was on stock cover and what I always ran in the past without issues. The exhaust port near the back of the cover is not clogged either. I wish there was a way to tell what the dust/powder is (belt, clutch pads, etc). Based on the color, my guess is belt or the clutch pads on the clutch assembly. But the underlying issue that doesn't make sense is why all the dust is building up in the variator cover and not flinged all over the rest of the CVT inside. The belt is a Gates Powerlink bought brand new and installed just a couple months ago. |
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Post by userix on Jun 6, 2015 17:33:03 GMT -5
Wow , that was clean before the run ? That's a lot of dirt/dust. I agree that is excessive. If no visible wear has occured you can safely bet everything is good. Try blowing out the entire cvt with compressed air, lube the rollers with graphite, reassemble and try 'er again... Edit: Forgot to specify what to use the graphite on. I actually have slider weights. Do I need to use graphite on them too? I never used graphite in the past and never had any problems with the variator. |
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Post by userix on Jun 6, 2015 15:54:31 GMT -5
The weights are actually brand new. Yeah and this happened after just one ride. I actually did blow out the cvt with some compressed air too. The slides do look fine. No abnormal wear on any of the surfaces. The belt doesn't look like anything is rubbing against it either. Could an aggressive hit clutch do this? But then it wouldn't make sense why clutch pad dust only collects within the variator slide area and not around the clutch assembly itself. Even when the dust originates from the variator it would still get flung out. Why is your scoot defying physics? is there a goblin on the crankrod sucking in the dust? Lol. That is true. I have no idea why so much dust gathers within the variator. I can't figure it out! There nothing in the variator that can generate this much dust in just one ride. It boggles my mind |
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Post by userix on Jun 6, 2015 10:53:07 GMT -5
The weights are actually brand new. Yeah and this happened after just one ride. I actually did blow out the cvt with some compressed air too. The slides do look fine. No abnormal wear on any of the surfaces. The belt doesn't look like anything is rubbing against it either. Could an aggressive hit clutch do this? But then it wouldn't make sense why clutch pad dust only collects within the variator slide area and not around the clutch assembly itself.
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Post by userix on Jun 6, 2015 3:59:33 GMT -5
I recently replaced my variator and clutch and after a single ride for a few hours, I noticed there is a ton of black-brownish dust under the variator plate and all over the weights. The belt is in good condition and the variator is fine as well. I don't really see any dust outside of the variator. The rest of the CVT area is clean. What is causing this massive build up of dust only within the variator? The weights are still in good condition as well. No plastic is worn off.  |
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Post by userix on May 8, 2015 4:29:50 GMT -5
I would try using a bigger main Jet. Go two sizes up and see if it resolve the issue. Just give it a try you got nothing to lose but time :-) I just tried a bigger main jet, it still has the bogging when cracking open the throttle and now 1/4 to 1/2 still sputters. When I'm cruising at half throttle and then suddenly go WOT, the engine bogs for 1 sec and then immediately picks up well. I also notice sometimes when I start the bike, I get some white smoke coming out. I just finished breaking in this new engine, does the white smoke indicate richness of fuel mixture? I hope I didn't already ruin the oil seal rings on the piston |
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Post by userix on May 5, 2015 0:08:39 GMT -5
I recently upgraded to a 180cc big bore kit for my GY6 ruckus and I am noticing the carb is constantly overfilled, which is evident by the excessive fuel pouring out as soon as I loosen the screws to the carb bowl and the fact the overfill tube is always full of gas. The scooter will randomly cut out when I am cruising mid-throttle. I am running an OKO 30mm D-slide carb, which is brand new, and I made sure the needle and seat are working properly. I currently have a round Mikuni DF52-21-D dual output 35L/hr pump installed, with both fuel outlets T'd to a single hose that runs to my carb. Does the stronger vacuum pressure at the intake manifold of my 180cc engine increases the fuel pressure or flow rate the vacuum pump operates at? The fuel delivery setup I have now is the same setup I used with my 150cc and I never ran into flooding or overfueling the carb. In fact, I had to use the Mikuni dual output setup because the rectangular DF-44 single output Mikuni pump wouldn't be able to provide enough fuel during WOT sessions. I would actually run the carb bowl dry only after a few minutes of WOT. Once i switched to the Mikuni dual outlet pump, I would be able to WOT all day and not starve the carb of fuel. Now it seems with the 180cc build, it's the opposite problem of overfueling. The first thing i tried was installing a vacuum restrictor (basically a hose coupler with a small hole restrictor inside) inline between the pump and the vacuum nipple on the intake manifold. I thought by restricting the vacuum, it would lower the pressure or flow rate of the pump. Turned out it didn't change anything. Carb was still getting overfilled just the same. Again, i verified the needle and seat are working properly. One friend recommended I switch my vacuum line to a smaller diameter line, but seeing how the vacuum restrictor didn't make a difference, I don't see how changing to a smaller diameter vacuum line would help either. Would switching back to the single output 14L/hr Mikuni pump fix this issue? FYI: I went to an electric fuel pump, so a different setup but a similar problem. The pump was rated at 4psi to 6psi, which should in theory be fine with the 30mm carb I have (like yours). But i kept getting over fueling - especially after shutting the thing down ---- the pressure in the line would be released gradually, and the gas level would rise too high (sometimes so gas would flow out the inlet of the carb body). Took it apart a few weeks ago and the needle valve had been damaged after only about 1K miles. So, new needle valve ---- but also a pressure regulator just before the carb to solve the underlying problem. There is a perfect little device made for VW Beetles - small round chrome regulator that is easily set anywhere from 1psi to 6 psi. I have it now set to 2psi, which seems fine for what the carb needs. Note: the regulator does not cut down the flow RATE - same amount of fuel is available if needed. All it restricts is the max PRESSURE. Might want to consider something similar. I have tried the round, 1-6 psi selectable fuel regulator, but it leaked from the dial area straight out of the package. Since then , I haven't gotten a new one to test out yet. |
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Post by userix on May 4, 2015 23:51:33 GMT -5
I recently upgraded to a 180cc big bore kit for my GY6 ruckus and I am noticing the carb is constantly overfilled, which is evident by the excessive fuel pouring out as soon as I loosen the screws to the carb bowl and the fact the overfill tube is always full of gas. The scooter will randomly cut out when I am cruising mid-throttle. I am running an OKO 30mm D-slide carb, which is brand new, and I made sure the needle and seat are working properly. I currently have a round Mikuni DF52-21-D dual output 35L/hr pump installed, with both fuel outlets T'd to a single hose that runs to my carb. Does the stronger vacuum pressure at the intake manifold of my 180cc engine increases the fuel pressure or flow rate the vacuum pump operates at? The fuel delivery setup I have now is the same setup I used with my 150cc and I never ran into flooding or overfueling the carb. In fact, I had to use the Mikuni dual output setup because the rectangular DF-44 single output Mikuni pump wouldn't be able to provide enough fuel during WOT sessions. I would actually run the carb bowl dry only after a few minutes of WOT. Once i switched to the Mikuni dual outlet pump, I would be able to WOT all day and not starve the carb of fuel. Now it seems with the 180cc build, it's the opposite problem of overfueling. The first thing i tried was installing a vacuum restrictor (basically a hose coupler with a small hole restrictor inside) inline between the pump and the vacuum nipple on the intake manifold. I thought by restricting the vacuum, it would lower the pressure or flow rate of the pump. Turned out it didn't change anything. Carb was still getting overfilled just the same. Again, i verified the needle and seat are working properly. One friend recommended I switch my vacuum line to a smaller diameter line, but seeing how the vacuum restrictor didn't make a difference, I don't see how changing to a smaller diameter vacuum line would help either. Would switching back to the single output 14L/hr Mikuni pump fix this issue? did you resolve the issue? Actually, I swapped out my velocity stack and threw on a UNI filter and that immediately fixed the cutting out problem when cruising between 1/4-1/2 throttle. I discovered this one day when I randomly decided to hold my hand over the velocity stack when it started cutting out. As soon as I placed my hand over the stack, the engine jumped right back to life. So I guess it was sucking in way too much air, making the mixture extremely lean in that throttle range? But even now with the UNI filter on, when I'm cruising in the 1/4-1/2 throttle range, I still get some sputtering, intermittent cutting out, but it's definitely a lot better than with a straight velocity stack. But the weird thing is the plug readings have always been near dry black color, indicating richness. As of now, I'm still having the weird bog issue when I crack the throttle wide open from idle. I have swapped out, as a process of elimination, the CDI, the ignition coil, spark plug, fuel pump, intake manifold, OKO 30mm carb, and air filter. The problem remains exactly the same even after individually testing each of the aforementioned components with known working/new ones. There are no leaks in the intake manifold, as tested by spraying carb cleaner all over it with no changes in idle. Exhaust gasket and flange are prefectly sealed and no leaks there. It's truly a mind boggler. |
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Post by userix on May 1, 2015 3:22:55 GMT -5
I recently just started having this bog issue only when I crack the throttle wide open from idle. It happened halfway through my ride. The first half of the ride, I could WOT from idle and the scooter pulls perfectly. Everytime I go WOT from idle, it bogs for 1 sec, then it will take off. I pulled the plug and noticed the plug is carbon fouled (dry, sooty deposits). I'm guessing it's super rich and I need to rejet to a smaller jet size. Is this the cause of the bogging shown in the video? Other than the bog described above, I can WOT fine after I get the scooter moving at speed. Current Jetting: 135 main/ 48 pilot, OKO 30mm D-slide carb.  Wow , id go with a 125 main and I'd also drop the pilot some also. Just went for another ride today and I continued using the 135 MJ. The bogging at WOT from idle is still there, but when I pulled the plug today and checked, the insulator and electrode tip are a nice chocalatey brown. But the threads near the insulator is still black. Does the carbon build up on the threads mean the pilot jet is too big? |
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