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Post by userix on Sept 19, 2020 4:23:48 GMT -5
Will there be any valve clearance issue if I run a hoca 2.5mm stroker with an a14 cam? I currently have a 180cc stock crank engine.
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Post by userix on Feb 25, 2017 15:04:56 GMT -5
The $50 question is - Where did the water come from on an air cooled bike that has not seen water or rain "recently" yet suddenly have water in the gear oil? Prank? Freak flood? Slept through the bad storm that hit while it was outside uncovered. That much humidity? Valid question. More like the million dollar question lol It is always covered with a water,weather resistant cover. In addition, it's parked under a weather and rain proof 10'x 10' canopy. It's kept behind locked gate and there is no one else there to mess with it. It did rain really hard the past couple weeks before this incident. I notice the gasket covers the portion where the breather hose attaches to the casing. The gasket pretty much seals the whole breather hose section off, minus a small hole. If this portion of the gasket is completely deteriorated, would that be the cause? I haven't split my gear case yet, planning to do that later to check.  |
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Post by userix on Feb 24, 2017 5:52:30 GMT -5
Yeah it's synthetic. Castrol syntrax LsD gear oil
I drained, flushed it with fresh oil and then filled it and rode still had oil coming out the hole. So I have to drain, fill, and ride more than once?
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Post by userix on Feb 22, 2017 14:43:04 GMT -5
All the previous ride were of the same temperature and distance/duration. They were all at evening with temperatures from 55-65 deg. So not warm at all. Speeds were average 50-60mph. RPMs were within the usual range. Nothing different from the other rides, just the excessive oil coming out the breather hole.
At what temperature does gear oil boil over? I doubt splash lubrication would throw out this much gear oil and like you said, if I did overfill previously, I would have noticed right after the first ride excess gear oil spewing out.
So weird...
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Post by userix on Feb 22, 2017 5:54:49 GMT -5
Scooter wasn't recently ridden through water or the rain. I checked the rear brake, which is drum setup, and without the brake lever engaged, there is no drag or friction; the rear wheel spins freely as it should. So brake drag is not the cause.
As for the clutch, I don't notice any slipping problem. Scooter moves as it should with no hesitation. What would be signs of clutch slipping when riding (ie higher than normal revs)? As for the temp of the case, it didn't seem to be overly hot and there was no smoke coming from that area. I just pulled into the garage and noticed an excess amount of gear oil puddling on the case and a few drips of gear oil on the floor immediately.
I'll pull off the CVT cover and check the clutch tomorrow, but I recently inspected the clutch last week and there are no signs of overheating (no clutch bell bluing).
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Post by userix on Feb 22, 2017 5:08:28 GMT -5
After a nice long 50 mi ride tonight, I noticed an excessive amount of gear oil coming out of the gear case breather hole. I filled up the gear oil over 5000 mi ago at the correct level, so it shouldn't be an overfilled gear oil problem. All my rides up till today have been free of excessive gear oil. Tonight, so much gear oil came out the breather hole that it left a small puddle on top of the case and also dripped onto my garage floor. My engine is usually dry with no leaks anywhere and I check daily. I would figure after all this time, the gear oil level would be lower, so it doesn't make sense why all of a sudden all this gear oil would be coming out the breather hole. Is it possible to have gear oil boil over? I'm using 80w-  Castrol gear oil. The red arrow points to my gear case breather hole.  |
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Post by userix on Nov 28, 2016 2:10:32 GMT -5
Would like to see some more pictures of the Piston and cylinder head. From what I see after 1,200 miles is not excessive, The plug looks like your running rich to me, the Fire Ring is Black. And why do you have the Head off at this time anyhow? I don't have the head off. I used a borescope to go through the spark plug hole to capture that image. So this is normal level of carbon build up for the piston? I can't get a shot of the cylinder head without taking it apart. My borescope doesn't have mirrors for me to angle the lens. |
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Post by userix on Nov 21, 2016 0:45:17 GMT -5
I only use Chevron 91 octane fuel. That's what I thought about the spark plug color too. Is it normal to have that much carbon on the piston?
Oil from the build? The top end was the only new parts put in. The rest of the engine is old and has been through 14k miles so far and running good.
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Post by userix on Nov 20, 2016 20:42:54 GMT -5
I have a 180CC big bore GY6 engine and after putting on a new piston, piston rings, and cylinder, I have heavy carbon build up on the piston head only after riding ~1200mi. I go for long cruises, not short city rides in stop and go traffic conditions. The scooter runs fine, pull hard and fast with no noticeable power loss. I have ensured the needle, needle seat, and float level are all adjusted properly. I have attached a picture of my spark plug, which shows a nice brown, tan color on the ground and center electrodes. If the jetting was slightly rich (even though the scooter is running great perfomance-wise), would this cause this much build up in such a short time. Or would this be caused by the vacuum pump overfueling the carb and causing excess fuel to go into combustion chamber. I run a mikuni vacuum pump with an inline fuel regulator to reduce the pressure of the pump in efforts to prevent overfueling. The carb float drain is not blocked and allows excess fuel to drain out back into the gas tank when the carb gets overfilled. So I find the overfueling situation unlikely.   |
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Post by userix on Oct 23, 2015 15:54:43 GMT -5
I have tried connecting the lights directly to battery and through relay. Both methods have the same flickering problem. Therefore it rules out the relay being bad.
Here another weird thing I just noticed when I connect a multimeter directly to the battery post terminals and have the engine idling, the reading directly at the battery will jump widly from 1v-13v. It won't ever go above 14 though. Rectifier is working properly. I have a voltmeter wired to the ignition source and it shows a steady 12.9 and up voltage. So what's puzzling is why voltage measured directly at the battery posts fluctuate wildly, while voltage at the switched Ignition source shows steady voltage that never drops below 12.7v. I thought the battery should be maintaining a steady voltage regardless if the engine is running, or at least not wildly fluctuate like it is right now. My scooter runs great, has no problem starting, but the only symptoms is flickering tailigh and flickering stage 6 fuel gauge that I'm sure is related to my electrical issue, whatever it might be.
I traced all ground wires and none of them are loose or shorted out. True Mind boggler
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Post by userix on Oct 23, 2015 3:24:04 GMT -5
I have recently rewired my LED turtlehead tailights directly to the battery through a relay switched by ignition. I figured this should reduce the flickering and dimming I used to have. But I still get the flickering and dimming at idling. If the engine is off, the LED lights stay lit consistently with no flicker or dimming. The problem only appears once the engine is started. I have already replaced the rectifier and stator, but the flickering still persists. Some say it might be a grounding issue, I have checked all grounds and don't find any loose grounds or disconnected grounds. What else could cause flickering when the scooter is idling? Since the taillights are directly wired to the battery and I am getting flickering on idle, does that mean my battery has an internal fault or loose ground? The battery still shows a healthy 12.7v when engine is off. I know my scooter is an AC fired system, but I figured wiring the taillights directly to the battery is the best source of DC power. For the life of me, I can't figure what is causing the flickering only when the engine is on and idling.
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Post by userix on Aug 19, 2015 20:23:14 GMT -5
That is strange. There is something funny going on when the engine starts running. You need to put a multimeter on your stator. Look up on Youtube on how to test your stator using the Ohms reading. A couple of things I would look for: If there is a ground wire coming off of your stator, check the connection, and the continuity of that ground. But, first of all, you need to test your stator. Test the stator, so you can eliminate it. Didn't you say you installed a new regulator and stator? I would like to know how you hooked it up. Your OEM wire connector may not have had a ground wire, and your old connector did not have 3 hot wires. Do you have all 3 of the hots from your stator run to your regulator? Do you have the ground run from your stator to the ground on your regulator? Is your regulator bolted solidly to the frame? It appears that your regulator is "pulsing", meaning it is not converting the 3phase AC voltage from your stator to a nice, smooth DC voltage. Did you install the 7 wire regulator? They are really good. Full wave, which means no pulsing. Or, I should say, really fast, small pulses. I use a 11-pole stator from Drowsports. I also use a Dan Max harness, which is designed to work with this 11-pole stator. I haven't had issues with this setup since I installed the GY6 engine and harness on the bike till now. In terms of how many hot wires coming out of it, I am not sure. www.drowsports.com/gy6-150cc-11-pole-stator-assembly/I traced each individual wire from the stator to the harness and its connectors and found no loose connections or broken wires. The R/R itself has 5 wires and it connects to exactly 5-wires on my harness. There is no loose wires hanging about. In my case if I install a 7-wire regulator, it wouldn't make a difference, because my harness only has 5-wires to connect a regulator? I just find it weird how both my trailtech speedo and Koso voltmeter aren't glitching like the brand new fuel gauge is. And as the voltmeter is showing, the voltage is within stable range and is above 12.7V all the time. In terms of loose ground wires, is that referring to ground wires that are directly bolted to the frame from various devices connected to the scooter? |
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Post by userix on Aug 19, 2015 3:45:36 GMT -5
I replaced my fuel gauge today and noticed that its exhibiting the same problem as the first one it would flicker on and off continuously when the engine is running. If I have the key ignition in the on position but not start the engine, the fuel gauge is working fine. As soon as the bike starts, it gets all glitchy.
I have connected the power source for the fuel gauge directly to the battery through a relay. As you can see in the video, the voltmeter, which is also hooked up the same way and have it grounded in the same place as the fuel gauge, doesn't flicker on and off at all. It displays a good voltage range reading when the engine is running. I double-checked all the wiring for the fuel gauge is there is no breaks or cuts in the wires. I don't know why the fuel gauge will do this, while the voltmeter works perfectly without any flickering. I also checked to see if the engine was grounded properly and the battery ground too. All grounds are secure and no exposed wire is shorting out.
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Post by userix on Aug 11, 2015 14:12:30 GMT -5
steve I actually do have a 11-pole stator. I have a 150cc GY6-swapped Ruckus and I just tested out a brand new 11-pole, to see if the flickering went away at low idle, but it didn't. From what I can gather, the taillight is receiving power spliced from the starter relay. I have a voltmeter that is spliced into the same wire and it's registering 13.3-14v at idle, even when the idle drops and the LED taillights start flickering. So that's what is confusing me: voltage appears to be within stable range at low idling but tailights still flicker when the idle dips. My idle fluctuates, bouncing back and forth from 1600-2000. It's when the idle drops to ~1600 that the tail light LED flickers on and off. As for my rectifier, I also swapped in a new one to test out and still flickers. All this time, I am monitoring the voltage through the spliced in voltmeter, which never showed any major drop in voltage. It remained in the 13.3-14.4 range. The rectifier I have is as pictured below, 5pin/wire with two connectors. 
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Castrol gear oil.