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Post by userix on May 1, 2015 3:11:24 GMT -5
I had bogging that would eventually go away after running for 30 minutes, but eventually it kept getting worse. I was able to fix it by doing a valve adjustment. do you have a uni air filter installed as well? It's weird because the bogging only started happening halfway through my ride. I could WOT from a standstill with no issues. Yeah, I am running an UNI filter. In the very beginning, I was running a velocity stack alone, but I kept getting bogging from 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. I later found out that when I put my hand up to the carb to partially block airflow, it immediately got better. So I realized the carb was getting too much air. Though it runs awesome from 1/2 and up. I would love to sport the velocity stack alone, but I couldn't cruise at a constant speed without it bogging out.
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Post by userix on Apr 30, 2015 3:09:19 GMT -5
I recently just started having this bog issue only when I crack the throttle wide open from idle. It happened halfway through my ride. The first half of the ride, I could WOT from idle and the scooter pulls perfectly. Everytime I go WOT from idle, it bogs for 1 sec, then it will take off. I pulled the plug and noticed the plug is carbon fouled (dry, sooty deposits). I'm guessing it's super rich and I need to rejet to a smaller jet size. Is this the cause of the bogging shown in the video? Other than the bog described above, I can WOT fine after I get the scooter moving at speed. Current Jetting: 135 main/ 48 pilot, OKO 30mm D-slide carb.
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Post by userix on Apr 18, 2015 15:10:34 GMT -5
Do you have a tank on the bottom (in the floorboard) or up top? IMO, if you have a floor tank, the simplest fix is to get an electric pump and a pressure regulator around 3 bar with a return fuel line. If you have a bottom tank, you will need a self priming pump with an inline check valve. It's a honda ruckus gy6 swap. So the gas tank is in the floorboard, down low below the height of the carb. But the same fuel delivery I have now worked perfectly fine with my old 150cc stock gy6 engine. It never flooded the carb back then What's the difference between a floor tank and bottom tank?
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Post by userix on Apr 18, 2015 15:08:57 GMT -5
I think you need to have a look at the float in the carb, if it is adjusted where its filling the bowl too high it would yield the same symptoms your describing. I'm not sure the way to adjust your carb without seeing it, and there is a way of testing the gas level height. clear tube in the bowl drain hold it up and let the bowl fill up the fuel in the drain tube will be the same as the height of the fuel in the bowl, John Yeah I checked the float height by taking off the carb bowl. It is set correctly. It's a oko 30mm d slide carb. www.treatland.tv/v/vspfiles/photos/OKO-30mm-black-2T.jpgThe carb is brand new and the needle/seat is fine. The float height is set correctly too. The only thing I can think of is the pump being way too powerful for my setup, even though the use of an inline vacuum restrictor yielded no difference. Theoretically, if the vacuum line was restricted to a very small diameter, shouldn't that reduce the pressure/flow rate of the vacuum pump? Logically, that's what I would assume
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Post by userix on Apr 18, 2015 2:36:44 GMT -5
I recently upgraded to a 180cc big bore kit for my GY6 ruckus and I am noticing the carb is constantly overfilled, which is evident by the excessive fuel pouring out as soon as I loosen the screws to the carb bowl and the fact the overfill tube is always full of gas. The scooter will randomly cut out when I am cruising mid-throttle. I am running an OKO 30mm D-slide carb, which is brand new, and I made sure the needle and seat are working properly.
I currently have a round Mikuni DF52-21-D dual output 35L/hr pump installed, with both fuel outlets T'd to a single hose that runs to my carb. Does the stronger vacuum pressure at the intake manifold of my 180cc engine increases the fuel pressure or flow rate the vacuum pump operates at?
The fuel delivery setup I have now is the same setup I used with my 150cc and I never ran into flooding or overfueling the carb. In fact, I had to use the Mikuni dual output setup because the rectangular DF-44 single output Mikuni pump wouldn't be able to provide enough fuel during WOT sessions. I would actually run the carb bowl dry only after a few minutes of WOT. Once i switched to the Mikuni dual outlet pump, I would be able to WOT all day and not starve the carb of fuel.
Now it seems with the 180cc build, it's the opposite problem of overfueling. The first thing i tried was installing a vacuum restrictor (basically a hose coupler with a small hole restrictor inside) inline between the pump and the vacuum nipple on the intake manifold. I thought by restricting the vacuum, it would lower the pressure or flow rate of the pump. Turned out it didn't change anything. Carb was still getting overfilled just the same. Again, i verified the needle and seat are working properly.
One friend recommended I switch my vacuum line to a smaller diameter line, but seeing how the vacuum restrictor didn't make a difference, I don't see how changing to a smaller diameter vacuum line would help either.
Would switching back to the single output 14L/hr Mikuni pump fix this issue?
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Post by userix on Feb 20, 2015 3:53:43 GMT -5
145 is quite low. sounds like a soft seize happened. Like JerryS said, pull the head to check valves, and then you can see if the jug is scored. What's the PSI suppose to be at for a working condition GY6? The scooter still has the same power and torque. It pulls me up hills just as well as it did before soft seizing. Do you know what that knocking noise is coming from? I suspect that is the result of the soft seize or whatever happened during that ride.
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Post by userix on Feb 20, 2015 2:18:41 GMT -5
The spark plug looks fine, nice golden brown, no where near white like the valve in the picture above.
After getting the exhaust header welded and fixed, I went for a ride, during a short WOT session, the engine all of a sudden loss power and stalled out, I thought I heard something breaking/rattling. The scooter wouldn't start after that, it would still crank and produce spark, but wouldn't start. I had it trucked back home and I examined the CVT transmission to make sure the belt and transmission components were ok. I also checked the valve gaps and both were set fine.
The following day, the scooter does start up no difficulty, but as it idles, I hear this intermittent metal knocking noise coming from the engine, as shown below in the video. I examined the transmission side to ensure everything was spinning fine and nothing was out of balance. Crankshaft is spinning true. I can still ride the scooter just fine, but it does make that metal knocking noise just like in the video. There is no loss in power or low-end torque and I did a compression test and it showed 145 PSI, so I believe compression is still good. Acceleration is good too. While I do hear the loud metal knocking noise, I don't feel any unbalanced vibration when riding.
But I know something broke during that last ride when it all of sudden died, as it didn't have this knocking sound before.
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Post by userix on Feb 19, 2015 3:04:33 GMT -5
I was replacing my exhaust gasket and welding the header pipe and decided to look up into the exhaust port. I noticed the exhaust valve is completely white. Previously, I was riding around with a crack in my exhaust header pipe, right where it attaches to the cylinder head. I was backfiring like crazy, which prompted me to examine the exhaust pipe. Can riding around 5mi with this exhaust leak cause the exhaust valve to turn white? Does this mean my valve is damaged? Pardon the blurry pic, as I was taking the picture through the inspection mirror
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Post by userix on Feb 19, 2015 2:56:39 GMT -5
I'm guessing the oil is NOT leaking from there. Not saying anything insulting - leaks are sometimes oddball things and tricky to track down. Most likely - crank seal, with oil somehow traversing to a point where it LOOKS like it is from where the plug was. I just replaced the crank seal the same day. I made sure the crank was perfectly smooth and that the seal was properly installed and greased on the inner lips. The seal is perfectly fine. I cleaned the inside up so there were no oil residues left. After riding with the freshly installed seal, I took off the CVT cover and oil was leaking right from the yellow plug. The area around the crankseal is perfectly dry and free of any oil or oil trails. There must be a reason why the factory put a yellow epoxy plug there, as if to seal something off. Otherwise, it would be totally random for them to put epoxy in that hole.
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Post by userix on Feb 18, 2015 4:04:20 GMT -5
I took out the epoxy plug by tapping a screw into the center and simply yanking it out. Here's what the epoxy plug looks like: I looked inside the hole and I don't see any holes that open into the crankcase. All I see is what looks like part of the casing at the base of the hole scratched off. But there is still metal behind it, but there's clearly oil inside this hole. It's very peculiar. The oil is somehow seeping out probably from this scratched off area, therefore necessitating the need for the epoxy plug. I ask a couple of shops that sell brand new GY6 engines, and they told me new engines fresh from the factory all have this yellow epoxy plug, although they don't have a clue why it's there.
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Post by userix on Feb 17, 2015 15:10:05 GMT -5
If u got both from the same place , chances are they got a number of defective cases or full engines and had to fill the holes in. Jb weld would have been a better way to go . Nope. Both engines were obtained from different sellers. There's another rider here, which I posted a pic of his variator area above and he also has the yellow epoxy covering the same hole. Has to be more than a coincidence. I know there are different versions of the GY6 engine (157QMJ, 1P57QMJ, etc) I'm not sure what is the difference between the different engine codes.
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Post by userix on Feb 17, 2015 3:10:02 GMT -5
Here's a pic from another rider here on the forums. His engine also has the weird yellow epoxy covering the same hole. Both of my GY6 engines I have have the yellow epoxy covered hole and both of the engines I bought brand new and worked on them myself, and I know I didn't fill the hole with yellow epoxy.
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Post by userix on Feb 16, 2015 3:58:26 GMT -5
There is oil leaking out of the yellow epoxy-covered hole next to the variator. I recently replaced the oil seal again and made sure everything is sealing properly. If i push on the yellow epoxy part, I can see oil being forced out around the edges of the epoxy. What is the purpose of hole the epoxy is sealing? Can I remove the epoxy and just fill it with JB weld?
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Post by userix on Jan 31, 2015 12:22:38 GMT -5
Thanks for clarifying that for me. The shop had both labeled Ac stator and DC stator looking the same and they both looked like the AC stator you posted. So I guess they really didn't have any DC stators. How come the DC stator has 12 poles? Do they pit out even more power than the 11-pole AC?
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Post by userix on Jan 31, 2015 4:14:56 GMT -5
as for the difference between ac and dc stators, they are actually referring to the set up of the scooter. if your scooter has a "DC" system (cdi, lights etc. ALL run on dc) then it would use a dc stator, which is a misnomer because it is still producing AC, it just doesn't have the dedicated coil for charging the cdi that AC cdi's need. and it does sound as though you need a new r/r. they aren't perfect but should be giving a much steadier output. i just replaced my r/r with a 5 wire set up that is doing an awesome job. new 11 pole stator and one 20w led headlight. after a 20 mile ride the r/r feels very cool to the touch where as the old 8 pole 4wire r/r set up the r/r pretty much stayed too hot to touch confortably, and that was with both stock 35w incandescent bulbs running, meaning they used most of the stators output so the r/r wouldn't need to shunt much unused output. to clear up my last, the new 11 pole produces a lot more output than the old, i'm using less and the r/r is just yawning with boredom. Oh, so there is a difference between an A/C stator an D/C stator. So if I installed a DC stator on my bike, it wouldn't run because it is lacking the coil to charge the CDI? Would an AC stator work in a DC scooter? I actually bought a "DC" stator from a shop that claims they are all the same and will work in either AC or DC scooters and compared it side-by-side with my AC stator and I couldn't tell the difference. They look identical. I'm not certain myself, but I didn't want to risk frying my electrical by testing it out.
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