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Post by yelloscoot on Feb 24, 2016 22:00:30 GMT -5
JR oldchopperguy Nope, I'm not going anywhere. If I could I would go back to see the Pyramids being built. Or better yet...go back to 2014 to the Jonway plant and and make sure they build my bike right. As I was letting it warm up this morning, before going to work, I heard a rattle coming from what sounded like the air box. After getting back this afternoon, and working on the charging problem... AgAiN, I pulled the cover off.   Are you kidding me?  Broken into four pieces, along with a bunch of pieces of expandable foam(?). I went ahead and ordered a new one. But I did try to use some JB Weld, then realized it wasn't going to be ready by morning. So I pulled out my trusty glue gun and went at it.  I used a whole glue stick on it, then, put it back in. May not look all that pretty, but, it's better than new. This sucker isn't going anywhere.  Well apparently my fix the other day on the charging didn't take. So I looked at it again today and used a pair of toothpicks to push the wires toward each other inside the connectors. I'll see how that works out in the morning when I can see what the lights are doing. I did receive a tracking number for the Caps and its looking like early next week for delivery.  Thanks Guys, Loren
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Post by yelloscoot on Feb 22, 2016 22:24:12 GMT -5
Yelloscoot,Sounds like the flickering IS related to the AC system. LED's do NOT like AC...Hopefully, the Opt7 FluxCapacitors will solve your problems. If not, you can still use all your factory headlight switches by using the bridge-rectifier. When I used that on my 150, it DID drop the 12 volts AC to about 10 volts DC but that was still plenty of juice for the LED headlight. Worst-case scenario: Would it be feasible to rewire the factory headlight switch off the same DC source as your taillights? Or, connect the factory headlight switch directly off the battery, rather than the AC circuit? That would avoid using AC altogether for the lights. I really do NOT understand why the factory sets up SOME of the lighting off AC rather than simply using the DC current for all lights. It may have something to do with proper battery-charging... On my old Kymco, all the lights are DC and EVERYTHING comes on when the ignition is turned on... No light switches at all, except for high-beam and blinkers. Thanks oldchopperguy , Leo. When I was putting Yin back together last week, I heard a pop or something, when I was putting the rear side panels back on. Nothing electrical, just that something had moved,...right where the R/R is located.   Thinking the flickering was maybe caused by the "pop", causing low voltage or a bad ground, I started checking with my meter. Battery was showing 12.25 volts while running and 12.5 with the motor off.  That was my first indication of a problem with the charging and AC system. So I dug around up in there with a mirror and a pick, checked some wires, replaced a tight zip-tie with a looser one, twisted a bullet connector, danced a jig and hoped for the best.  Well the dancing probably is what did the trick, because the voltage, jumped to 14.3 volts while running and 12.75 with the motor off. Okay, it probably wasn't the dancing. It was probably the yellow wire with the bullet connectors. I had a chance to take a short ride tonight and the flickering, on low at idle, is almost gone. High beam at idle is more of a steady strobe now. While both Hi/Lo are much better while riding. This is at least a step in the right direction. Opt7 has contacted me and will send a pair of the FluxCapacitors. Possibly here by the weekend. They just plug right into the wiring harness and I have them mounted right up front. So it's just a matter of taking off the access panel below the Givi.  I feel confident that the FluxCapacitors will make the installation complete.   After all, if they worked for Doc on his Delorean, then they should work on a Chinese Scooter.  Loren |
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Post by yelloscoot on Feb 20, 2016 14:04:20 GMT -5
Update:  They seem to be much stronger than the originals (made in USA!), so I am using a new one right away. Only it doesn't have the little black cushiony plastic around the head...  Thanks again to JR! I thought they might be of better quality. They certainly look like it. Your ignition switch will wear out long before the key will. As far as the little cushiony plasticy thingy-kabob, you may try some Plasti-Dip. Just a thought.  Nice to hear you have that issue covered. Loren |
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Post by yelloscoot on Feb 20, 2016 7:32:52 GMT -5
I'm absolutely NO expert here... But my LED lights acted similarly when connected to AC. That's why I did all the messing around to install a bridge-rectifier. That cured the flickering, but I can't recall if the other incandescent lights also flickered. Now, do your incandescent filament bulbs also flicker? If so, then I would think there's a problem. If the incandescent bulbs do NOT flicker, then it's most likely the LED's not liking AC current. I don't know if the LED's flickering could also affect the incandescent bulbs in the tail light, instruments, etc. I really hope your Opt7 will cure the problem. . It's only the headlights and the gauges , which are on the AC system. The gauges, though, are incandescent. When I installed the HID's on Yellow, I made a relay setup and ran a separate switch to turn them on/off. I did it that way just in case there may have been a charging problem, which turned out, there wasn't. Come to find out, shortly before getting Yin, Yellow has a 12-pole stator providing a healthy charge.I really want to keep away from adding a separate switch and keep it as simple as possible [KISS]. But I have a tendency to jump into stuff and make it as technically difficult as it can possibly get. I'm a big fan of electronic gadgetry from my years of automotive 12v. installation work. But, the automotive industry doesn't use AC systems, at least not before 2001. Its been a while for me, but, I can usually figure out DC issues. JR , yes, they are LED with a small Micro-Driver good for AC/DC systems. They're the same kit that Spunn used on his Burgman LED Install. The fuse box is under the seat next to the battery and everything checks out just fine there I think. I did have to disconnect the harness for the fuse box to remove the seat bucket and the clip is sealed now with silicone. I do have another 4-bay fuse box, but, its a little too big to mount all nice and pretty anywhere. I will check the fuses here in a little bit once I've had a couple more pots of coffee and the sun is up. UPDATE: Yes, the fuses are in good condition.On the installation instructions there is a note about the flickering: I'm still waiting for a reply from them. They've been pretty good about getting back in touch in a timely manner. I have also ordered a H4 Relay Wiring Harness just in case, but, not due to arrive for 5 more days. I like to have extra supplies on-hand even if they sit around for a while.
One thing I did do, during the PDI, was sand the paint down to bare metal where the grounds all come together. That's about the only thing I can think of now that could be much different from original besides the new ground cables and terminals. That's all I can think of for now...time for another pot of coffee. Thanks Guys. Loren |
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Post by yelloscoot on Feb 20, 2016 0:47:51 GMT -5
Thanks JR! To your knowledge, that blank works on the "typical" Chinese scoot ignition? For mine - a 2008 Baccio VX150 - or for a Tao Tao Lancer 150? They have worked on 4 different scooters for me. Main thing is when the person cuts the key for them to take it slow and get the key aligned well in the key cutter. JR I ordered these Scooter Keys on Ebay. I took them to Ace to be cut. JR is right that they need to be done slow and well aligned. When he (the Ace guy) cut one of mine it didn't work the first time. He worked it a bit more and thought he had ruined it, but , it actually worked then. I didn't bother him to cut the other one, so, it's still just a blank. Also the ones I ordered just don't feel as solid as stock. The one JR has pictured looks like it has more meat on the bone, maybe even better, than stock. I would definitely go with his next time I need more cut. Loren |
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Post by yelloscoot on Feb 19, 2016 23:23:44 GMT -5
Thanks rockynv and JR . I went ahead and opted for the Water Wetter... 1) Autozone carries it and they are only a mile away. 2) Price: $10, easy to do and enough to do six radiators, and most importantly..., 3) I don't feel like removing plastics and re-burping the whole system again. Just call me lazy.  JR Yes, now that you mention it, I haven't smelled it lately. The only thing I smell, if I have it locked up in the garage, is the fresh new rubber of the Avons.  oldchopperguy Yes to that too. Getting the front cowling back on was a PITA.  I messed with it for quite some time to get things all lined back up. Granted this was the first time on Yin. Maybe next time will be better, though, I don't want to make a habit of pulling it off. And a question for All:As I mentioned in my last post, the new LED headlights flicker and dim (still waiting for Opt7 to contact me). I also noticed this morning that the gauge lights do the same as the lights. I checked for continuity of ground from (-) battery terminal to frame(main ground for all, photo above) to motor. The meter only reads 0.2 ohms between (-) terminal to motor, which, seems good to me. Is there something I may have done during the PDI, or maybe, a second grounding spot somewhere that I've overlooked?
I have the front access panel off tonight and will be checking more into it tomorrow. I'm just trying to rule out my work as to the cause of the flicker. Happens from idle to cruising speeds, smooth or bumpy roads, acceleration to deceleration and no real pattern that I can see. Its very erratic and very noticeable.  Hopefully Opt7 will get back to me soon about their Flux-Cpacitor fix. Thanks and good night, Loren |
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Post by yelloscoot on Feb 18, 2016 22:42:43 GMT -5
Thank you for your latest posts. It's been a busy week with work and working on the PDI. Go to work, come home and get to work until it's time for bed. Then just too tired to get online for very long. Took Yin down to the frame and motor to get a good look at everything she had to hide.    Well, the deed is done and I'm happy to say there're no extra parts left in the zip-lock baggies. Everything is tight and back in it's place. The vacuum and fuel lines have been replaced, the connections checked and sealed across the clips with silicone and the battery compartment is all nice and tidy.     I haven't replaced the tank to pump fuel line yet because of a full tank of gas making a dangerous mess. Although, I think I have that part figured out now (after it's all back together), but its easy to get to later. Thanks dollartwentyfive . Yes, I do have the recovery tank and it does have anti-freeze in it about where should be. Everything is looking good so far. I hope you can get a new motor from Scrappy's. That should lift your spirits. oldchopperguy Yikes, that must have been devastating. I just can't imagine what it was like to work with cloth insulated wiring. That was a little before my time just by a couple decades.  I'm glad you got your over-engineered clamp figured out and I'm really surprised it lasted eight years the way it was. Yes rockynv , I had seen your post earlier in this thread: I did check on it to hopefully find it locally, but, with no luck. Do you have any idea if it can be diluted just a little, just in case a half gallon is not quite enough? At an average of about $21/half gal. delivered,it is a bit pricey. But I would like to get some either way. Texas can be brutal in the summer. I also had the chance to get the LED headlights installed. I had a question about the AC headlights and they wrote me back: So, the install went well and they are definitely much brighter. Although, they do have a slight flicker, Opt7 has a "Flux Capacitor" for free to fix the problem. I'm waiting for a reply on this issue, and/or, I already have an H4 Relay Harness on the way just in case I need to go to the battery.   While I was in there I remembered oldchopperguy 's suggestion about running power to the front for future installs requiring 12v. I installed some split-loom with yellow para-cord inside to "pull power" (pun intended) wire though if needed.  And to finish off the night, I used JR 's suggestion with the thin rubber washers to reinstall the Givi. That worked like a charm. Not a squeak one to complain about. After tightening a good two dozen nuts and bolts, adding a several dozen Zip-Ties and replacing a few missing screws, Yin feels very solid now. Now it's gaining the trust issue of the new starter. But that will fade into the past.Thanks to All,  Loren, tired and weary, but ready to ride. |
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Post by yelloscoot on Feb 14, 2016 9:38:14 GMT -5
Yelloscoot,
My first scoot had the starter go bad the first week! On the 150 it was EASY to replace the starter. Hope it's the same with yours. EVERY scoot is going to act up SOMETIMES... Like the old story: "If it uses gasoline, tires or LIPSTICK, eventually, it's gonna give ya' trouble..." LOL!
For two years, old Minnie Mouse has been trouble-free, and yesterday she got a "runny nose"... Yup... a little puddle of antifreeze under the bottom after running on the center-stand. EEEWWW!I pulled the right-hand lower plastic, where the coolant hoses run and sure enough, there was a hose-clamp completely loose, dangling on the thinner metal pipe. It was seeping at the hose joint. The Kymco hose-clamp is WEIRD! Three pieces with actual machined-steel parts, spring-steel parts and looks "aircraft-quality". But it works sort of backwards, "pushing" the clamp together rather than pulling. Somebody assembled it wrong, and it would not fully tighten... The more you try to tighten it, the looser it got. Looks like a factory mistake, as all hoses are original. So I reassembled the over-engineered clamp and put it back on the hose... No more leaky-leaky! I just wish all fixes were this obvious and simple!You may want to patch-in any wiring you might want for driving-lights, etc. while it's apart... Saves lots of work later! You'll be glad to get Yin Yang back on the road again! Spring is almost here!Ride safe!Leo
I thought that seven weeks was bad, but one, that takes the cake. Yes, Yellow is so much easier to work on, everything is right in your face. Luckily with Yin, even without the need to do a full PDI, the starter and fuel pump are relatively easy to get to by removing a side-skirt.   I went by Car Toys and picked up some 8 gauge power cable to replace the lengthy 10 gauge that came stock. I ended up running 14 inches shorter between the battery, relay and starter than what was there. Once I popped the starter back in place, with some Blue Loctite, Yin started right up. So now, Yin, has Her Yang back. I'm happy to hear that Minnie only had a bit of a "bug". That's seems strange that the clamp would just be hanging loose. I'd like to see a pic of that type of clamp. I Googled Images and didn't find one that seemed to work that way. I just can't wrap it around my brain as to how it could be mis-assembled. Hopefully I can wrap up the PDI today, per the Big Guy PDI, and get Yin back together for work tomorrow. Still need to swap out the ground cables to the 8 gauge, tie up some wires, see about the headlight install, and by all means, fix the temp gauge wiring.   No connector or solder, just, taped  ....are you kidding me! When I first discovered the problem, couple of weeks ago, I didn't have much access to them and my tests didn't show power on any of the wires. But now looking at the photos I see I missed the two in the right photo....duh. Now it's time to get back to business. No more horsing around.  UPDATE: That didn't take long to check out. I will solder and heat-shrink the connection for a lasting fix. The photo shows the point where the fan kicks in. All is good, though, I do smell anti-freeze but don't see any drips...?  When it wasn't working, it was worse than, not even having an Idiot Light.  At least I have some peace of mind now. That's a good thing. Loren |
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Post by yelloscoot on Feb 12, 2016 23:04:19 GMT -5
oldchopperguy dollartwentyfive Okay, the verdict is in. I, the Jury, find the accused Starter,....Guilty as charged. Well this little set-back has prompted me to get going on the much needed, and dreaded, PDI. I took a half day off work and got started with the removal of all the panels.  Once everything was off (now the hump too), I got started checking the resistance of the relay and starter cable with my meter. They both checked out fine, so, I pulled the starter. I don't know what caused it but the gear shaft is locked up tight. My "dealership" has one in stock so I'll swing by and get it in the morning. The current vacuum and fuel lines show EPA and SAE markings, but, made in China. I have purchased lines in the past from Autozone that are made in the U.S.. The drive belt that it came with is a Gates Powerlink, so I think I'm good there.  I'm really looking forward to spending a few hours going over the bike to get the PDI completed and have piece of mind. Leo, you mentioned the AC powered headlights and going to the battery. I'm planning on getting the LED Headlights in while it's all apart. I should probably contact the seller to get a little info before proceeding too far. The HIDs I have on Yellow are run through a separate switch to the battery. But, I want YinYang to run with the factory switch. Anyway, I'll see what happens tomorrow. Loren
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Post by yelloscoot on Feb 12, 2016 22:09:34 GMT -5
oldchopperguy Leo, those are some great looking lights you have for Minnie.  If the links photos are true to life, then, they should really open up Minnie's eyes with the light of day. It's the dark neighborhood streets that get me sometimes. I don't think you'll have any problem finding your way with those burning though the darkest of nights. Loren
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Post by yelloscoot on Feb 12, 2016 6:06:13 GMT -5
Pushed it home yesterday because the stater or relay went out. LOL Loren |
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Post by yelloscoot on Feb 11, 2016 21:39:49 GMT -5
Hmmm... I'd think the universal relay should work. Any 12v starter takes some heavy amperage, so an automotive relay should work. The wire to the starter getting hot concerns me though. Could you use a heavy-gauge wire and jump directly from the battery to the starter, bypassing the relay? Just a second of that should determine it the starter will respond to battery voltage and turn over. If you try that, do ONLY for a second or two incase the starter IS shorted out. There's a LOT of amps there.... LOL! Again, I'm on shaky ground here, not being expert with the electrics. Be careful, and don't let a dead-short remain connected more than a second or so. Things get HOT fast! I REALLY wish these had kick-starters! Leo Yes Leo, they do get hot fast. I'm surprised the fuse hasn't blown. I was just looking around and found this: Such a simple device. Unless I hear of a definite failure of the starter, then, this will be first on my things-to-check after work. I'll have to borrow my Dad's Lincoln for work tomorrow. Not a bad trade off, but, I would much rather be riding. EDIT:
I remember thinking about kick starting it....LOL. No can do. Jeeeesh. After watching the video, and having time to ponder it, something came to mind. That if the contacts are bad inside the relay, that might explain, the lower voltage (4.5v) measured on the starter side and starter. That there is a high resistance in the contacts if they are burned out.. Loren |
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Post by yelloscoot on Feb 11, 2016 21:06:29 GMT -5
Thanks Leo, oldchopperguy . I looked online earlier for a relay at Autozone,... maybe just a universal relay to check it out. Something like this : Duralast/Relay - Starter.What gets me is the wire, going to the starter, also gets hot...?? So everything between the battery and starter is overheating, but, the in-line fuse is obviously still good. That fuse holder is the cheapo plastic clam-shell with the glass fuse. I need to replace all that wiring anyway along with the holder. I feel it is longer than it needs to be and quite flimsy for power wire.  Loren |
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Post by yelloscoot on Feb 11, 2016 18:20:04 GMT -5
dollartwentyfive oldchopperguy JR Ran into my first major setback today. On my home from work this afternoon and stopped at Ace to pick up the rubber washers for the Givi. Then stopped again about a half mile from home for some smokes. While leaving (that was the plan) and turning the ignition ON, I heard the fan kick in and the starter just bumped. That was it. After trying a few more times all I was hearing was the relay clicking under the seat. I checked the fuses,...they're in good shape. So I pushed her home.  Once home and coffee in hand , I checked the voltage across the battery terminals and also the hot side of the relay. (12.7 v). Tried jumping the relay terminals and got nothing but a good spark. Then I checked from battery ground to starter and reading 4.5-5 volts. The positive "cables" from the battery to the relay and relay to the starter get very warm and I hear, I think, a light "sizzle" sound when pressing the start button to test the voltage. My best " guesstimation" is the starter and Scrappy Dog has this: CF/CN 250 starter motor. I haven't had any problems, that I'm aware of, with the starter. Even on cold 30 degree mornings. I have noticed that my brake lights (LEDs) dim out slightly or all the way when I'm starting up in the dark mornings though. Which is then sending a spike to my brake light flasher and burning it out. Any ideas would be appreciated. Loren, Hot and Tired from pushing a 250, in what feels like summer.
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Post by yelloscoot on Feb 9, 2016 21:14:37 GMT -5
I ride to work everyday. Our lowest of the season has been 27 so far. But yesterday, started off windy at 5:30 am in the upper 30's. As the day progressed the wind gained speed up to a steady 30-35 or so with gusts to 46 mph. Wow, it was a terrible afternoon to ride home from work. I kept it slow and steady, but still, very weary about the ride. I made it home safely and parked it for the day.  Meanwhile a co-worker, who just bought a Tao Tao 50 this week past weekend, ended up being pushed into the curb where he landed in the grass. He told me today, it banged his bike up a little, but, only his pride was hurt. It was a much better ride today. Thank goodness!! Loren |
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....are you kidding me! When I first discovered the problem, couple of weeks ago, I didn't have much access to them and my tests didn't show power on any of the wires. But now looking at the photos I see I missed the two in the right photo....duh. 
At least I have some peace of mind now. That's a good thing. 