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Post by brainpup on May 24, 2018 19:58:14 GMT -5
Hey tortoise, did you click on the picture to see where my flywheel is at when the piston is at TDC. it looks close to me, what do you think ?
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Post by brainpup on May 24, 2018 19:44:25 GMT -5
Plugs dry as a bone... Ok I did what you said and took the plug out and the fan cover off, then I located the "TDC Marker" (I'm calling it that because it's the place that the Marks on the Flywheel are suppose to line up with when checking for TDC). Then I stuck my skinniest screwdriver in the spark plug hole and rotated the flywheel real slowly until I could feel the piston hit the screwdriver, then I backed off and came back until it just touched it again, then I checked the TDC Marker...it was real close to the T. I then pulled my screwdriver out and rotated the engine a couple of complete cycles, then I put the screw driver back in the hole and rotated the flywheel until it touch the screwdriver again. Below is a picture of where the Flywheel is at when the Piston touches the screwdriver" The Flywheel has Marks that says T F and then theres a line and then a little farther away theres 2 more lines (not sure what they are for ?? advanced timing ?? ). But according to what you are saying, mine's showing that it's pretty close to TDC...true ? any other ideas ? OR just way overdue for a new Carburetor ? I'm sure I could use a valve adjustment but my engine has never been noisy or made any ticking sound like I have loose valves and she always idled smoothly @ about 1800 rpm after she comes down from the auto-choke. I've been changing the oil (Shell Rotella T4) every 1000 km (she doesn't quite take a whole quart, so 5 bucks every couple of months is no big deal and with 12,374 km that makes about 10 times for me as she had 1600 km when I got her 4 years ago, so were talking $50 over 4 years ain't sheet...I change the CVT fluid at the same time too...I use nothing but 92 octane, I check/clean/replace the plug every time I do an oil change or if I notice a drop in performance, and I'v replaced the air filter in the air box twice even though it didn't look the least bit dirty... so it's not like she isn't getting taken care of. Although I do wish I had a Garage...but she does stay covered when not on the road...been thru 5 covers in the last 4 years...most are cheap and don't last, but I did recently find a better one, will see... BTW the Carburetor/Intake manifold/Vacuum petcock/air filter/fuel filter/ hose will all be here tomorrow, per Amazon Prime
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Post by brainpup on May 23, 2018 20:59:08 GMT -5
Excuse me Mr. Tortoise, in order to prevent me from having to tear half my engine apart, you said something about sticking a probe inside the spark plug hole to check for top dead center...what kind of "probe" ? and what am trying to feel ? the top of the piston ? I know about the T mark on the actual flywheel and the flange part that sticks out it's suppose to line up with, but what am I trying to feel for inside the spark plug hole ? What can I do if they don't match at TDC ?
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Post by brainpup on May 23, 2018 20:51:24 GMT -5
Too late, I already paid for the parts...but like I said I've been running with the original Stock carb, intake manifold, hoses and vacuum pump for over 4 years & over 12,000km's, so I got my money's worth out of them and like I said there were some small cracks in the manifold (even though I'm not sure how that would really effect anything, as the manifold is really the aluminum pipe inside the rubber boot and as long as it's tight to the manifold and tight to the carb, where can it leak) and I went with clear hoses so I can confirm fuel flow...and like I said ti all only cost me $24 out of pocket. ..and since I don't have a garage or even a carport (just a spot on the asphalt parking lot of my apt complex) to work on my scooter, I wanted to do something to do get some parts rolling this way. So it's not like I can pull the valve cover off at night... BTW I watched a couple video's about valve adjustments and how to check the mark on the flywheel and the holes in the Camshaft gear part to confirm you have the engine at TDC before doing any adjustments... what if it doesn't line up? what do you do next ? NOTE: my engine has never had a valve adjustment, unless it happened during the 1st 1000 km, before I got the bike...now shes at 12,000 km, probably due huh ?
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Post by brainpup on May 23, 2018 18:13:13 GMT -5
OMG OMG OMG...dude I live in Charlotte on N. Wendover Road (other end of Eastway Drive) where ya gonna be ? I'll freakin drag my scooter behind my bicycle to meet ya somewhere, heck my Dog's barking like heck and says he'll help drag it too (he's a Husky) anything just to git the dang thing running again. I'd pay for your help, I'm about broke but I need this scoot to run...or I'll lose my job, I've been late 4 times in 2 weeks trying to count on the CATS Bus System and my boss is getting ill, as he can't go home until I get there. Where do you live ? When will you be in town ?
BTW I found a good deal on a 26mm keihin carb/intake manifold/air filter/fuel filter, I could have here by Friday or Saturday at the latest.
UPDATE: I ordered the carb just now, I can't drill thru the screws on mine, (stock carb) and heck it's been on the scooter since the day it was born, 09/14/2012, so it's got to be worn out anyway after 12,374 km. The intake manifold looks like its got a few hairline cracks as do the fuel & vacuum lines (nothing leaks though) and the air & fuel filter were free add-ons. I also bought some new "clear" fuel/vacuum hose and the worm drive clamps (10) to tighten them down securely and I got 25ft of hose, so I'm replacing every last hose there is...oh yeah I also bought a new Vacuum fuel pump, just to eliminate everything. I'm hoping this new batch of parts will end the problem. The parts will be here on Friday, via 2 day Amazon Prime where I already had a $25 gift card credit, so I only had to fork out another 24 bucks for everything...dirt cheap by any standards and I still picked thru the ones with the better reviews...(26mm Keihin carb made in Japan)
Please let me know of any advise you may offer.
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Post by brainpup on May 23, 2018 10:20:06 GMT -5
onewheeldrive, actually when I put the airbox back on, I hooked all of the vacuum lines back up the way they were when "stock" , so that nothing was blocked off.
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Post by brainpup on May 22, 2018 21:43:39 GMT -5
Any body else have any suggestions ?
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Post by brainpup on May 22, 2018 17:29:34 GMT -5
Ok I shot some gas in there and when I hit the starter, flame shot out of the intake hole, but it did not start. I tried again same thing. So I must have spark, but even though the engine was turning over on the starter, when it flamed on it did not start up, not for a second...and I could see the stuff moving up and down inside. dam flame scared the sheet out of me the 1st time it did it too...lol But even on the 2nd try, the engine did not try and run, just a flash of flame, like you threw some gas on a fire, poof, and it was out. BTW I was using a hypodermic needle like syringe that I used to refill my ink cartridges on my printer, it was new & clean, so I know the gas went down inside. Why didn't it try and start ? at least a little bit ?
and I swear it was running just fine before I swapped out the air box for a filter, heck even ran that day for a short ride and then the next day for 2 runs and then it cranks but will not start.
pistonguy, should I just buy a new carb ? I saw a Keihin I can get cheap...or is it not my carb and something amiss with my engine ? BTW I did clean everything inside the Stock Carb thats on the scoot I could get to (enricher/top vacuum/side vacuum/both diaphragms/intake manifold) but I could not clean my jets or float needle as I would have to drill out the screws on the bottom of the carb to clean the jets as it's a stock carb and the "putts" in China ground off the screw heads...and like I said, it's the stock one that came with the scoot, and even though I use high octane always, it is over 4 years old and I got no problem buying a new one to get this situation fixed as I really need my scooter to run...she's all I got...unless you think there is some other problem ?
Your advise is appreciated
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Post by brainpup on May 22, 2018 17:13:09 GMT -5
Alright I read your reply and looked at the pictures, I'm going outside to try what you said to do. I'll be back in a couple of minutes
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Post by brainpup on May 22, 2018 17:10:10 GMT -5
Ok so if I just undo the bolts that hold the intake manifold & carb on and move it all to one side I can just drop some fuel straight down into the hole ? how much should I put in ?
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Post by brainpup on May 22, 2018 16:09:14 GMT -5
hey Pistonguy, when I take the carb off, should I just dumb a little bit of gas straight down into the intake hole of the engine ? how much ? teaspoon full ? tablespoon full ? and should I put the manifold and carb back on before trying to start the scooter? or just pour a little in and give a crank ?
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Post by brainpup on May 21, 2018 19:44:08 GMT -5
Ok so your are thinking like I am, 1st I established that yes I am getting spark 2nd I tried to turn the engine over by hand with the kickstarter, real hard to push down, but with the plug out I can hear, whoosh whoosh, telling me that yes there is compression 3rd I took a hypo with gas in it (fresh source) and shot some straight in the vacuum line port on the side of the intake manifold, then put the hose back on 4th I tired to start the scoot with the electric starter...rururururur...and a back fire out my carburetor...but didn't start 5th I changed the coil with a known good one...rururrurrruurru...and a backfire out my carb...close...but did not start 6th I changed the CDI out with a brand new one that I tested on another scooter and it works just fine...rururururur...did not start 9th pulled plug squirted gas in hole, put a new plug in and reconnected...rurururru...and a backfire aaaaannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd... nuttin 10th put tools up covered scooter and came inside, toweled off (it was 86 & very humid outside on that black asphalt parking lot of my complex) and grabbed a cold beer.
I'm at a lost...although I did not take the carb off completely and pour gas directly in and try to start it.
NOTE: during all of this process, I did pull the vacuum pump line that goes to the carb, cranked the scoot and fuel shot right out the hose, so I'm pretty sure my Vac Pump is good. oh and I loosened the screw on my drain hose from the carb and fuel came out of it too so I'm pretty sure fuel is getting into the carb. Side note, after I had shot some fuel into the intake. I tried to cover the carb with a rag and I swear it almost started (backfired twice too) and then I noticed a small amount of fuel dripping out the air filter side of the carb...which seems strange to me...any input on that ?
What can I do next ?
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Post by brainpup on May 21, 2018 14:27:46 GMT -5
Pistonguy, thanks for the reply and suggestions. I tried spraying some starting fluid in thru the carb intake and she still didn't start. I also tried to get some gas directly into the spark plug hole, but thats actually kinda hard to do because of its locations and all of the in the way. I get off work at 4pm and am going home to try and dump some gas directly into the plug hole and then put the plug back in and try and start her up. I'll try hand-choking at the same time and then come back and let ya know what happened.
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Post by brainpup on May 20, 2018 22:10:50 GMT -5
I don't think a sheared off woodruff key is my problem, my problem is I am not getting fuel to my spark plug.
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Post by brainpup on May 20, 2018 18:52:39 GMT -5
why do you think something broke inside the engine ? it's got good compression, it turns over and almost starts. latest suggestion is that since it will sometimes backfire out of the carburetor when I am trying to start it that it is starving for fuel (too lean) .
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