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Post by dragono on Aug 12, 2014 10:56:35 GMT -5
So just to verify that there were no air leaks I took I squirt bottle and basically hosed down the engine at idle top and bottom of it. No change. Could this happen if there is a crack in the piston? I'm going to tear it down one more time and clean every thing then make sure It's at TDC one more time.
Like I can visibly see a small puff of smoke/steam or something coming from the carb after each back fire if I take the airbox off and run it like that. Which also doesnt show any change.
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Post by dragono on Aug 11, 2014 22:38:39 GMT -5
I will take pictures tomorrow morning. To pour salt in the open wound my transmission belt seems to be slapping now. And sliding on the clutch bell and somehow I sheared all the teeth on the variator fan. (i think thats the name of it. It sits directly opposite of the unit that houses the roller weights.) Luckily I had another Piece out back. But i'm still getting a screaching noise.
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Post by dragono on Aug 11, 2014 19:07:07 GMT -5
I had actually got that one today because I thought the gasket I had in there was not good anymore so i replaced it only to run into the same problem.
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Post by dragono on Aug 11, 2014 18:39:05 GMT -5
Yep Gaskets the little donut one. Sitting right in there.
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Post by dragono on Aug 11, 2014 17:41:33 GMT -5
I know I was just seeing if there was any noticeable difference. It will run just fine until I'm almost to WOT. Then it's back fire city. I have already taken the head off to check for a crack. And while doing so I made sure everything was times correctly while reassembling.
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Post by dragono on Aug 11, 2014 17:09:35 GMT -5
Wow it was 1 and a half turns out only. Found out intake manifold O ring was completely gone. Replaced that, still no change. With exhaust off I still get back fire aswell. I dont know where any other air leak could be .
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Post by dragono on Aug 11, 2014 14:36:36 GMT -5
It has a newish top end on it. (150cc) I Just tried a #120 (didnt have anything else in between)jet and it does the same thing but is now bogging at the top end also. Like I can hear the bog and the pop. I dont quite know what the pilot jet is as there is no writing on it.
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Post by dragono on Aug 11, 2014 14:12:44 GMT -5
I tried a #105 and a #110 maybe I should keep going up?
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Post by dragono on Aug 11, 2014 13:46:01 GMT -5
The above posted is the video I just took. Accompanied by the slightly lower RPM's that you can hear is a slight pop that cant be heard in the video. I've tried different carbs and I have put different gaskets on there. Even tried different jets. I had read on another thread that this guys engine cylinder head had cracked. Hopefully thats not my case any other way to tell? Its only at about 7/8 to full out WOT.
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Post by dragono on Aug 3, 2014 21:45:01 GMT -5
So the problem was the RR I found another out of pure luck (after ordering new ones) and tried and she she charges up just fine. ( I think the grounding pin had burned out which was why it was reading 13 volts but not sending the 13 volts to the battery when hooked up) To keep from blowing my lights again I just wired the to my battery with an on off switch. I still cannot figure out why its putting out so much current.
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Post by dragono on Aug 3, 2014 10:33:06 GMT -5
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Post by dragono on Aug 3, 2014 10:07:56 GMT -5
Ok when I connect a regular battery charger to it as soon as both leads touch the battery theres a noticeable jump in voltage coming from the battery. Also It was just sitting at about 12.18 volts and dropped to about 12.08 after turning it on. I've tried regrounding the RR to see if thats the issue but still no luck. I even tried a different RR same issue. I get voltage coming from the RR when wire is disconnected from battery to RR. But as soon as I touch it to RR all im getting is constant battery voltage with no change at higher rpms.
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Post by dragono on Aug 2, 2014 20:47:46 GMT -5
Not exactly. I unplugged the wire that leads to the regulator from the battery at the battery. The wire is still connected to the RR. So i test the battery without it and its reading 12.6 with no change at high rpms because its not attached to RR. Then I read voltage coming from RR it sits at 6 volts at idle and gets up to 13 some odd volts at higher rpms. However if i connect RR to battery it reads 12.6 even at higher rpms. If the battery is shot shouldnt I be able to hook a regular battery charger to it and see no net change just as the RR had no net change on it?
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Post by dragono on Aug 2, 2014 19:30:28 GMT -5
So first things first I started getting 19volt readings from my multi-meter. Changed the batteries on that bad boy real quick. Now through some stroke of luck I have unhooked the hot wire going from R/R to battery and now reads 6 volts dc at idle all the way up to around 13.9 volts dc at high RPMS! =) But when I go to reattach this line to my battery it never reads higher voltages even at almost WOT it sits at around 12.6 or so. Is my battery just trash?
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Post by dragono on Aug 2, 2014 18:36:06 GMT -5
Ok got a Kymco Engine was torn up. Replaced with a generic gy6 150 engine. So I went to start it up and boom worked like a charm. However minutes later i blew both my front and back lights as well as dash ones. Went to get another regulator from a guy and he told me some put out more current than others which explains why it happened however, now the regulator isnt charging my battery. I tested a few wires coming off the stator (by now everything on the bike is gy6 down to the cdi)
Yellow line coming off the stator is about 20volts at idle White is Around 6 volts at idle both will raise up to around 40-50 if i rev it some. I get these same readings at the Regulator but no change in DC voltage. I checked the ground wire coming from regulator and It had continuity with ground. The actual regulator doesn't have to be bolted to the frame to work correct? I tried with and without with no change.
Also might I note that the yellow wire the ran back to the tail light was making continuity with ground so I by passed that and still no luck.
Finally I turned on the bike than unplugged the wire going from the battery to the R/R Its only ready .5 volts however it will raise up linearly to 1.5 to 2 volts. Does this mean my stator is bad? My lights will turn on fine. (I dont leave them on long because they may blow again)
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