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Post by rudedog on Oct 20, 2013 9:30:34 GMT -5
Thanks for the information. I'll be looking for these things next time I get into it. This is very helpful.
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Post by rudedog on Oct 18, 2013 20:47:33 GMT -5
I took my variator apart just now looking for the washer I'm supposed to remove to deregulate my 2010 50cc Eton but there is none. Variator and clutch look great. If I want to upgrade some of these parts do you have any recommendations. Next up... which wire do I need to disconnect from the CDI? Pictures tomorrow for that one.   |
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Post by rudedog on Oct 11, 2013 16:45:37 GMT -5
I found the problem. The wire from the solenoid to the starter was off the starter. Now it's working.
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Post by rudedog on Oct 9, 2013 19:14:54 GMT -5
Sorry no time today and tomorrow isn't looking very open either. I'll just keep kicking it till I get around to it (or get sick of kicking it over).
Thanks for the help and I'll revive this thread when I get to it.
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Post by rudedog on Oct 8, 2013 20:57:08 GMT -5
Thanks Alleyoop, I'll check that tomorrow after work.
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Post by rudedog on Oct 8, 2013 18:55:25 GMT -5
I saw the fuse coming off the batteryand that one is good. When I turn the key on the rear light (brake light is working) and dash light is on, the turn signals and horn work. The headlight and fuel gauge come on when I start the bike. The rear light assembly is an aftermarket LED unit.
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Post by rudedog on Oct 8, 2013 18:00:41 GMT -5
The starter on my bike is inoperable, not even a click, I'm hoping it's only a blown fuse, if there is one. Anyways, it's a 2010 Eton Beamer III with 1998 miles.
Thanks for the help.
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Post by rudedog on Oct 6, 2013 11:15:23 GMT -5
My problems, as discussed in these threads => itistheride.boards.net/thread/4364/first-scooter-ton-50ccitistheride.boards.net/thread/4392/running-operational-petcockThe $175 scooter is running. I fixed the problem by replacing the carb with a new one off of ebay for $25. Upon comparing the old to the new one I found the choke slider inside the carb was not going far enough down. The brass piece pressed into the carb was not pressed in all the way. It is now fully compressed in and it should work fine. I'm guessing the previous owner must have dislodged it somehow when he was trying to figure out why it wouldn't stay running. I drilled out the petcock and the carb is holding fuel so that can wait to be replaced on a later date. THANKS to all who replied to my threads helping me try to figure out the problem. |
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Post by rudedog on Sept 27, 2013 18:05:01 GMT -5
Thanks for the heads up on the float valve. I'll get one ordered.
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Post by rudedog on Sept 26, 2013 20:26:29 GMT -5
Nope, no oil pump adjust on this one just a rubber hose going from the tank to the engine.
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Post by rudedog on Sept 26, 2013 20:24:06 GMT -5
No go on that one, looks like I'll be waiting for my petcock to arrive. I hooked everything up, started it up, it ran great until in got flooded and gas was pouring out of the carb overflow. Oh well, it was worth a try.
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Post by rudedog on Sept 25, 2013 20:26:18 GMT -5
I had the carb apart to check for any foreign debris but it was spotless. I did notice the valve you mention had no rubber tip, is it supposed to be bare?
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Post by rudedog on Sept 25, 2013 20:13:49 GMT -5
Yes, 1/2 mile from my house. One of the pillars sunk in the ground 2+ feet. Funny thing is they just spent the last 2 years repaving/inspecting it. Good thing it didn't loose a section, alot of vehicles use it.
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Post by rudedog on Sept 25, 2013 19:58:26 GMT -5
Thanks for the links They will come in very handy ! ! ! Off to check the oil pump.  |
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Post by rudedog on Sept 25, 2013 19:44:38 GMT -5
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