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Post by payneib on Mar 26, 2013 10:21:17 GMT -5
Even on my little 125 at 27 years old, I struggled to start with until I got the nack of it.
Like others have said: left hand on left grip, right hand on pillion handle/seat/top box (I actually don't have a box, so I use the mounting point as an extra hold, right foot on stand lever, but don't HEAVE, just apply body weight to the lever, while giving the bike a pull to get it moving.
Next time you get help around, just ask them to hang around for five minutes so you can have a play with a bit of help, just to find what works best for you.
Ian
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Post by payneib on Mar 25, 2013 11:06:32 GMT -5
I check them when they sound different then normal, or if it has hard starts or runs different. If your in tune with your scoot you'll know when its time. ^^^^^this^^^^^^^ My scoot has 4000Km on the clock, and I did my Vvs at about 1500Km. Once I start getting a tendency to cut out at stops, or maybe hard starts, I know they've slipped. Probably gonna do them again after my next shift rotation (so about 4800Km) as they may be going now, but it could be attributed to the low temperatures we're having again now. Ian |
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Post by payneib on Mar 25, 2013 5:24:55 GMT -5
I would be more tempted to get Rhino treatment applied to the tire before installing instead. Yeah, the slime is a PIA, but it does work. It's why I started using the tubeless kit, which I know works (it's not far off the "pro" kit used by my garage for permanent repairs). But I've not heard of that Rhino stuff. Is it good? I might have to ask about it next time I get a new tyre if it's a worth while investment. I can still keep the repair kit in the bucket for ones that are slightly too big for a treatment to save. Ian |
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Post by payneib on Mar 24, 2013 16:53:28 GMT -5
i seen one ina a can that sprays in sealant and fills ur tire up at the same time, bout the size of a can of food. im gettin it asap It's called tyre weld, there's various makes. They're all crap. You have to totally empty the tyre, remove the object if possible, spray it in, then ride for about 10 miles on a flat tyre to work it in, before inflating properly. And even then you have to get it to a garage ASAP to have it done properly. It's ok for cars, but trying to ride on a flat is suicide. You're much better off using a "slime" product (stans, green, etc) that you put in before you get a puncture and they try and save you, or getting a proper tubeless repair kit, like I mentioned above. Ian |
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Post by payneib on Mar 24, 2013 16:44:37 GMT -5
I've just fitted the insert. It is such an easy process. The kit cost me ~£25 and was free delivery. I'm not sure if its free delivery in the States, but I ordered from the .co.uk site, and it came from "abroad" (calm down Daily Mail readers) somewhere, and was still free postage. Start by making sure your visor and helmet an work space are all perfectly clean. Simply place a small piece of masking tape on the centre line of your helmet, above the visor, and with the visor on the helmet, mark the centre line of the visor. Then peel the clear, plasticy, floppy template thingy (all technical terms around here!) and line up the centre line on the template with the centre line on the helmet, and the horizontal line on the template, with the lower edge of the seal on your helmet. Now smooth down the template without stretching it. The template will "droop" with the curve of the visor, but that's fine. Just measure to the hole marks to make sure they're level. If not, just adjust the template, you've got 15 mins to work with it. Now indent your holes and drill with the bit provided. Push the pins in through from the front, flex the visor and fit the insert. Just check the fit, the pins are adjustable by revolving, and the insert has several notches to move up and down. Peel the protective film off the insert and you're done. I personally used the pinlock stickers, but my lid is only cheap! Lol On first test (putting the lid one, shutting the visor and having a damn good puff), its great. No fog whatsoever, and unlike the visor treatment I reviewed earlier, no need to wash and re-apply every night. The vision change may take some getting used to, as you do get a "letter box" effect. I'll spend some time riding with it, and then edit this post to give a complete review. Feel free to ask any questions, I hope you find this useful. Ian Attachments:
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Post by payneib on Mar 24, 2013 15:55:51 GMT -5
Roger dodge. Was just a thought, I see what you mean about the added back pressure on the exhaust.
Would be absolutely awesome to have a charged scoot: turbo or super!
Get a kickstarter going online so I can throw money at you until it's a reality......and I have one! Lol
Ian
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Post by payneib on Mar 24, 2013 14:28:13 GMT -5
I was thinking a seal wouldn't be strictly necessary around the existing intake, more of a splash guard between the standard intake and the snorkel, ensuring the majority of air is dry, but I'm not sure.
I'd definitely make it oversized to minimise the lean running issue (if I could make the snorkel twice the cross sectional area of the existing intake, I think that would be enough).
I'd also like to incorporate some kind flap Vv, to block off a full bore of water going through, but that would take some thinking to work right.
I'm gonna have a mooch around some DIY stores at some point and see what strikes my fancy as a possible option.
Ian
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Post by payneib on Mar 24, 2013 14:05:02 GMT -5
I'm just wondering if a turbo would be better than a super on a scoot?
Scoots already have stacks of acceleration due to the nature of the light weight and CVT, so the shaft driven (in this case belt) boost could be a bit much at low end, or at least waisted. Whereas the later kick in of a turbo would help the top end, with out affecting "off the line" performance. It'd be a bugger to rig up.
Just musing,
Ian
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Post by payneib on Mar 24, 2013 13:35:01 GMT -5
Can I play? I'm a little behind but: I think this covers smoke stacks and an electricity company. And I don't have a wooden bridge, but I do have a grade II listed bridge, built in the 1700s. I'm not sure what a dancing street corner tax man is, but I'm fairly certain there wasn't one on my ride home from picking up my abandoned scooter from work! Lol I was gonna get a pic of an old church (built around 1600s ish) but the battery went on my phone, so you'll have to wait till Tuesday. Unless there's a new next tag? Ian  Attachments:
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Post by payneib on Mar 24, 2013 13:19:59 GMT -5
i have NO idea
but i bet the numbers are different/ translated for the USA
than for other countries.
Yeah, I read on that wiki link above that the US rating is 4-5 points lower than the European one, so  US is about 89 EU, and our  is about 91 US. So there not much in it over all, but I still don't need to waist money on our 97 (  US). Ian |
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Post by payneib on Mar 24, 2013 8:52:59 GMT -5
I'm off down to work to pick up my scoot now, checking the roads as I go. Hopefully it's all cleared from yesterday.
Ian
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Post by payneib on Mar 24, 2013 8:07:41 GMT -5
I'm amazed you guys have so low octane... The lowest octane we have here in Sweden is ! A long time ago we had octane... That's what I was thinking: octane? What it is that? Soup? I've drunk higher octane than that! Lol Ian |
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Post by payneib on Mar 24, 2013 1:13:08 GMT -5
If you get something that will do 60+ BUT only at full throttle your motor will not last. Alleyoop Surely a stock 260 should do this? My 125 holds a steady 60 on the flat (no wind, fresh air filter, etc, obviously) at WOT. Surely a 260 should cope with 60mph at 3/4 throttle? I only ask as 250-300 is the cc I'm thinking of for the next scoot, for exactly that reason. Ian |
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Post by payneib on Mar 23, 2013 15:57:55 GMT -5
Can anyone give any advice for the UK? As far as I know, we've only got a choice between and 97. I've tried them both ad can find no difference between them. I've not seen anything about non-ethanol. Ian |
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Post by payneib on Mar 23, 2013 5:04:19 GMT -5
I just abandoned my scoot at work, and took three hours to get home after a night shift on the delayed trains. Hopefully I'll get to recover it tomorrow!
Ian
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US is about 89 EU, and our 
is about 91 US.
US).
