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Post by phssthpok on Aug 17, 2014 12:18:01 GMT -5
Another bit of garage-trickery you might think about is using differential temperatures to your advantage. While it's true that in a warm engine everything will be tighter due to expansion, you could try selectively chilling the bolt itself to cause it to shrink. It's like the reverse of using hot tap water to loosen a lid on a jar. The best way to achieve this (for the average lay-man) is with a can of, well...canned air..you know, the stuff used to 'blow out' computers and suchlike. If you turn the can upside down you will release the liquefied propellant which will behave very much like propane or butane does when exposed to atmosphere as a liquid...it boils off rapidly and freezes just about anything it touches. Those 'canned air' products usually come with one of those 'red straw' thingummies for reaching tight places. that should allow you to target the bolt itself, while holding the can upside down. just warm the scoot up completely, then target the bolt and give it a few good blasts until it's cool to the touch... that should give whatever benefit a temperature differential will be able to afford in your situation. If all else fails... www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc-damaged-bolt-nut-remover-set-low/p-00952166000P Good luck!.
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Post by phssthpok on Aug 10, 2014 20:11:29 GMT -5
So I decided to do something about the random loss of spark, and replace the stator/pick-up unit (not realizing at the time that it is possible to buy just the pick-up). And, of course, since I can never seem to do anything the simple way I decided "What the heck.. let's upgrade to an 11 pole stator! And since I'm tearing stuff apart, I'll get a 115mm variator, some 12 gram sliders, and a new gasket for that danged leaking header-flange!" Ordered everything I needed, including the 7 pin regulator and the 'special tool' for pulling the flywheel. Since I'm working nigh 60 hours a week, I had to wait for Sunday to have the time to work on the scoot, but today was the day! Sunny. Warm (almost hot, but not quite). Light Breeze. Perfection. Get the scoot rolled into position for working on. Get the parts-n-tools all laid out on my wrenching table. Pull up all the bookmarked wiring diagrams and helpful how-to's I had found...aaaaaaand promptly discovered that my scoot's wires only matched about 40% of the colors called out in the diagrams. After several hours of multi-metering things, and cross referencing information sources, I finally have a wiring arrangement that I'm confident will, if not work, at least NOT fry anything. Part of my issue was that I was bound and determined to do this project without cutting anything on the factory harness. I achieved my goal (I think). Since I got the hard part done I was pretty amped up to get the 'easy' part done.. pull the flywheel, replace the stator, plug in the rest of the wires, button it up and (hopefully) go for a test ride. Yeah...not so fast, buck-o. first you need to dig out the compressor for the impact wrench, then you need to find the accessory kit you bought with all the quick couplers so you can attach the new hose to the tank and to the impact. <sigh> Get that all done, zip the nut off the flywheel, and commence to threading on the 'tool' to pull it. <Spin...spin..spin>... Da-faq? <Jiggle-spin...jiggle-spin...> "Why wont this thing thread in? I'm turning counter clockwise like I'm supposed to." <try the 'small' side> Nope.. too small.. I need the fat side. <Examine the threads to make sure it's not a buggered thread preventing engagement> Looks fine. <mindlessly run a fingernail through the groove to make sure the threads are clean> DA-FAQ?? "There's no taper on these threads!" Message sent to merchant who sent the parts, but I doubt I'll hear back before tomorrow, since today is Sunday and IIRC they are closed today. So I put the scoot more-or-less back together (mainly to keep from losing anything) and decided to move on to replacing that danged header flange gasket since I was already flat dirty. Aaaaand now it looks like I'm going to be replacing the head. I stripped out one of the header studs! ( I WASN'T EVEN PUTTING THAT MUCH EFFORT INTO TURNING THE NUT!! ). I know that I could always helicoil it, but to be honest..a helicoil kit would probably cost about as much as a new head, and I'd still have to R-n-R the head in order to work on it. I can drill and re-tap the old head for larger studs at work (once things slow down a bit) and have a spare on-hand. Heck I may even take it to a weld-shop and have them fill the stripped hole with aluminum, and just re-tap it for the stock stud. Regardless... the fastest fix will be a new head. Ordering it tonight it should arrive about the same time as the replacement flywheel tool. With any luck I'll actually be able to finish this project NEXT Sunday. Of course this now has me thinking even harder about the exhaust modifications I wanted to do (making a new header pipe that's a true 1" diameter). I have to remove the muffler for the head work anyway, and it wouldn't be hard to cut the stock pipe off the flange and weld on a larger diameter pipe. I am a welder after all.. Le Sigh.... Nothing's ever simple...
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Post by phssthpok on Aug 2, 2014 19:19:57 GMT -5
'Road Spares' Whenever I replace a wear item on a vehicle, I generally keep the old ones as 'emergency road spares' Things like belts, hoses, spark plug wires, spark plugs, etc. They don't take up much room, and can be a lifesaver in a pinch. I currently have a spare intake manifold, coil/plug wire, CDI and drive belt in the scoots storage compartment.
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Post by phssthpok on Jul 31, 2014 21:22:32 GMT -5
I was referring to Scottx's avatar. Do an image search for 'Phssthpok' and you'll see what I mean.
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Post by phssthpok on Jul 31, 2014 20:10:51 GMT -5
HEY! How did you get my picture?
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Post by phssthpok on Jul 29, 2014 19:41:22 GMT -5
as an *extremely* temporary fix you can slather the outside of the manifold with some RTV silicone and let it cure. That should last you at least a couple of days while waiting for your replacement manifold to arrive (Actually... I'd order 2 or 3 manifolds. They're inexpensive, and are notorious for going bad like that).
Doing the silicone can also seal it up enough for test and tune diagnostics to see if that solves all you problems, or just *some* of them.
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Post by phssthpok on Jul 27, 2014 16:18:43 GMT -5
Most of the replacement parts I'm finding on ebay are the entire clutch, so I guess that's what I will be replacing. Any sense in getting a "racing" or "performance" clutch, or one with a different RPM spring? I'm planning on selling this in a few months when I go to upgrade so I don't need anything too great, I just ride it around town. Welcome to the club!Any particular reason you want/need to remove the variator? If you're just looking to remove the belt it can be done without removing the variator.
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Post by phssthpok on Jul 27, 2014 16:04:07 GMT -5
So...the scoot acted up on me again yesterday. Twice. Same issue...power loss and 'run down' to a dead stall. It was near yesterday and both times it was as if someone just threw a switch, and killed the spark. It took about 1/2 hour of cool down time before it would start again. Of interest was how it behaved when trying to start it. The engine would 'hit' two or three time before losing spark. I swapped out the CDI and coil/plug-wire with the 'road spares' I kept on-hand the second time it quit with zero effect, so at this point I suspect that the first time it over heated, something in the ignition pickup was damaged and is operating on borrowed time. I also noted (while pushing the scoot to a shady area) that both front and rear wheels seem to be binding up a bit, so I'm going to have to tear into that situation too. I suspect (from cursory initial investigation) that it's brake related (Read: they need adjustments of some sort), but I suppose it would be a good idea to completely tear into it all and re-grease the bearings just to make sure. Hrm... maybe I should order some gears since I'm going to be in there anyway.
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Post by phssthpok on Jul 22, 2014 5:46:07 GMT -5
Are you the original owner (first purchaser) of the scoot?
If not, then it's possible the PO installed some taller (read: TOO tall) final drive gears. This would explain the lack of hill pulling power AND (believe it or not) your reduced top speed ability. Your speed/RPM scale you listed at the top of the page seems to bear this out.
An engine (any engine) can only make 'X' amount of power. If you exceed it's capabilities, then performance will suffer. I've been shopping gears on Ebay lately and I've found gear sets with ratios as tall as 2.2x. if a PO put in a set like that without doing anything to increase the output of the engine itself, then it is logical to presume that performance would be adversely affected.
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Post by phssthpok on Jul 20, 2014 17:28:30 GMT -5
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Post by phssthpok on Jul 20, 2014 17:23:15 GMT -5
If i park my scooter and don't start it for a couple of weeks I have to spin it over quite a few times before it will start. It seems to me the fuel bowl is going dry and the fuel won't fill the bowl as it takes pulsing vacuum to open the fuel shutoff on the bottom of the tank. if I use the scooter regularly there is no problem. Anyone have this problem? Is there a fix? My scooter isn't a daily ride, I use it on weekends only and not every weekend. If, in fact, it is an issue of the fuel bowl drying up (and not a 'weak battery' issue as others have somehow inferred), and you have a vacuum actuated petcock (not a vacuum pulse PUMP), then all you need is a steady source of vacuum to open the valve and fill the bowl. The last time I did off-engine carburetor work, I simply sucked on the vacuum line for about 30 seconds to open the valve and fill the bowl before re-attaching said vacuum line to the intake manifold. Worked like a charm...engine started up within three spins of the starter. If it's an ongoing issue, it seems to me the cheapest 'fix' would be to fit a 'T' connector into the vacuum line leading to the petcock, and add a short length of vacuum line that you can plug while running the scoot, but easily access to apply suction when you want/need to prime to bowl.
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Post by phssthpok on Jul 20, 2014 17:06:55 GMT -5
Sounds somewhat similar to what I went through last week. How are the temperatures in your area? I had pondered the gas tank vent issue for my own problems, but the stumbles/loss of power happened after being stopped for a time, so ther should have been plenty of time for any tank-vacuum issue to resolve.
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Post by phssthpok on Jul 19, 2014 11:29:52 GMT -5
More data. I'm fairly convinced the issue was completely heat related. Thursday was low-mid 90s, Friday was solid mid 80's, and the scooter rode without even the slightest hitch on the way home both days. I even pushed it up to a solid 55mph (nigh 60 on the chino-meter @~7000 RPM) as I got within walking distance of home. That scoop really does the trick for getting cool air past the bodywork to the engine. Now I'm debating a larger variator, and a set of gears for the back to drop the RPM and get just 'that' much more MPG from a given cruising speed. I'm open to suggestions if anyone feels like voicing an opinion as to manufacturer/brand!
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Post by phssthpok on Jul 16, 2014 20:58:42 GMT -5
So, the battery arrived and I got it installed. A friend swapped cages with me for Monday and Tuesday as he needed a pickup to retrieve an engine from a junkyard, and since his car was a gas sipping little Honda ( I know for a fact that it'll do 42MPG if you keep it under 60), and I had a few errands to run myself, my first day back on the scoot was today. One of those errands was a stop at Home Depot for a 4" sewer-pipe elbow with which to make a cold air scoop for the cooling shroud. A few minutes with a drill and some re-purposed PC slot-blockers used for mounting tabs, and I now had $7 scoop installed. (I didn't even bother cutting it back or anything... I don't really care how it looks...so long as it WORKS). I just need to be careful when dropping it off the center stand now, to make sure I don't drop the scoop down on my heel. It also occurs to me that I need to go out and see how that scoop sticking out affect my lean angle capacities. So today's commute was much the same...went without a hitch in the morning, but on the way home there were a few times where I could tell it was 'not right'. At one point, it started to 'run down' like before, but this time I tried to keep it going, rather than backing off completely, and it started to regain power. I'm still thinking it's heat related (we broke 100 here today, and the ride home was at the height of it) as each one of the three instances of power loss came after being stopped at a light following a lengthy run 'at speed'. Once I got moving again and engine speed/forward motion forced some cooler air over the engine it seemed to wake up again. In the end it never fully died on me, so I'm at least making progress.
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Beer!
by: phssthpok - Jul 8, 2014 21:24:13 GMT -5
Post by phssthpok on Jul 8, 2014 21:24:13 GMT -5
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