|
|
Post by onewheeldrive on Apr 6, 2015 2:50:44 GMT -5
Mine is 24mm, but you should probably measure yours to be sure.
|
|
|
|
Post by onewheeldrive on Apr 5, 2015 22:24:59 GMT -5
That seems a bit strange that there isn't enough room for washers on the head bolts. Were there washers on there originally, from the factory? Are you sure everything is seated down properly from the cylinder on up, when torquing the nuts down?
|
|
|
|
Post by onewheeldrive on Apr 2, 2015 20:19:51 GMT -5
Just got back from a 35 mile ride,,the BBK seems to be breaking in great,,I hammered on it twice and brought it up to 60 MPH 7K RPM,,runs great,,still see the cagers have not changed,,they need to learn to stay on their own side of the road. Nice. I rode mine to work today for only the second time this year. |
|
|
|
stock rollers.
by: onewheeldrive - Apr 2, 2015 20:03:29 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by onewheeldrive on Apr 2, 2015 20:03:29 GMT -5
It may or may not run any better. It depends on how the carb is jetted, and not all carbs have the same stock main jet (the number is stamped on the jet).The air/fuel mixtures are a bit different on each scooter. If you add more air, usually you'll need more gas, and vice-versa.... UNLESS, there is an imbalance to begin with. Air leaks can cause imbalances, and since they don't throw the same main jets in stock everytime, the mixture may be a bit off from the get-go.
On my 50cc way back, if I took the airbox snorkel off (with 4 holes) it wouldn't run right at all. EDIT- that doesn't mean yours won't.
|
|
|
|
Post by onewheeldrive on Apr 2, 2015 2:14:43 GMT -5
Another thing, for me and my body weight (keep in mind), is the different ccs
For me I used 6.5g for a bone stock 50cc. 6g was ok.
Later, I had a 63cc (didn't know it, was a new engine) and used 7g.
Then the 72cc I used 7.5-8g, and actually ran ok with the stock 8.5g.
No major mods with the bigger bores.
Now with the 72cc-- once I changed the tranny gears to 49/17, I dropped back down to 7g.
|
|
|
|
Post by onewheeldrive on Apr 1, 2015 20:07:07 GMT -5
The size is 16x13.
I tried 5.5g before but I found them to be ridiculously light for my bodyweight (around 140lbs at the time). The rpms were over 7,000 right off the bat, and was slower than the 6.5g I had in there, acceleration wise, even though they were lighter.
Keep in mind that a lot of these speedometers are off by about 10mph at top speed.
|
|
|
|
stock rollers.
by: onewheeldrive - Mar 30, 2015 20:32:12 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by onewheeldrive on Mar 30, 2015 20:32:12 GMT -5
For new engines, mine usually average around 8.5g, which also is a common weight (heavier than what most want to use) for variators that come with rollers.
|
|
|
|
Post by onewheeldrive on Mar 26, 2015 20:14:10 GMT -5
The belt I just put on the other day (from partsforscooters) came with a sleeve. It makes me feel a bit better about it for future orders. I actually watched both those videos beforehand.
I couldn't find all my old belts, probably got rid of them, unfortunately. Except one backup.
|
|
|
|
Post by onewheeldrive on Mar 26, 2015 16:45:27 GMT -5
Are you certain there is only one print and one thread style for for kevlar and non kevlar belts? I'm not convinced yet either way. We should compile some pics and send them to gates and see if they reply back. Im just not convinced that because a belt is different that it's a fake. Certainly there are fakes, but I'm not so sure about one consistency throughout the real Gates belts, quite yet.
|
|
|
|
Post by onewheeldrive on Mar 25, 2015 15:25:03 GMT -5
When I'm street cruising my RPMs stay around 6k. I found the higher RPMs help with a huge hill I have to climb on my route to work. Then I'm probably not at a bad setting. I can climb hills like nothing and it only slows down to about 30mph, or maintains if I had speed before climbing. I just always found it weird that even at WOT downhill it wouldn't go much more than 6500rpm If you decide to toy with the weights, I bet dropping .5g would be perfect, keeping you at the most around 7,000rpm at max speeds. Safely. In my experiences, it really depends on a new belt and rollers. Your rpms will just gradually increase over time anyway. For example, my rpms were just over 7,000 at max speed-- without downhill or tailwind, even more so with those factors. Just changed out the belt and rollers (same weight), now it's between 6500 and 7000. In short time, my rpms will be about right where they want them, after the new belt and rollers wear in. It's something to think about. If I put in new rollers and new belt, but my rpms were at 7500 brand new-- my rpms will be in the danger zone at max speeds in a month probably. |
|
|
|
Post by onewheeldrive on Mar 25, 2015 15:09:11 GMT -5
I ordered some 7.7g polini weights awhile back, but my digis only weigh in half grams so I didn't even bother. Normally I weigh each individual roller, then all six at once.
|
|
|
|
Post by onewheeldrive on Mar 25, 2015 13:28:40 GMT -5
I think the best setup for roller weight is what gets you from point A to point B the quickest (besides 1/4 mile racing), depending on hills and how many stops you make, rider weight, and ccs. If you put in heavier roller weights, but can only reach that new top speed on only 1 part in town or a road you don't normally travel, than it probably isn't worth it. Running 9g weights for mostly stop and go travel, is probably lowering your average top speed more than what 7.5-8g would. Top speed goes out the window in stop and go travel, since it takes awhile to reach it, normally.
I basically weigh the stop and go travel and good ol' straightaway country road driving to work, to decide my roller weights. It's basically overall top speed and the time it takes me to get through town or the longer trips to work- and lean a 1/2 gram or so one way or the other.
|
|
|
|
Post by onewheeldrive on Mar 24, 2015 22:26:08 GMT -5
from that angle it looks like the tip (ground,electrode. whatever it's called) melted off. appears shorter than it should be I quoted you earlier showing you the post where he said he used a saw to cut down to check it out. I do hope you aren't using that thing! onewheeldrive haha Lmao. I'd probably need a new head after that, and not just the one that has the valves..... |
|
|
|
Post by onewheeldrive on Mar 24, 2015 22:21:01 GMT -5
The plug ground strap (little hook at the end). I took a pic with three spark plugs I had. The one in the middle is the plug in question, and is noticeably shorter than the others. It also looks different, not just shorter.  |
|
|
|
Post by onewheeldrive on Mar 24, 2015 20:59:10 GMT -5
|
|
