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Post by tinman7809 on Jul 7, 2013 6:31:27 GMT -5
If you go with the amazon one just make sure to use a blue loctite on all the bolts. You can try to take yours at part, if it uses rivets drill them out and you can take out any restriction and repackage it with a muffler packing. Any motorcycle shop that sells dirt bikes should have it. Then just re assemble with new rivets or self tapping screws.
It's a cheap mod.
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Post by tinman7809 on Jul 6, 2013 21:37:44 GMT -5
so in all reality will a correctly tuned 28mm be un superior to a correctly tuned 32mm on a 205cc?
Power and throttle response wise, don't really care about MPG.
Also are the OKO replicas decent or should I try to find a real one?
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Post by tinman7809 on Jul 4, 2013 4:33:57 GMT -5
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Post by tinman7809 on Jul 4, 2013 3:36:22 GMT -5
I cant say its one thing or the other but I can try to help.
1. Make sure your fuel line is always traveling down, don't have it doing a rollercoaster type up and down route. Cut any access and route it so there aren't kinks or severe bends. Also clean/replace fuel filter.
2. Auto choke, when they go bad it can cause the engine to run really rich, which shouldnt be hurting it when its starting but if its already warm it may effect it.
3. Put in a new plug, you should be using a NGK CR7HSA
4. Clean out the carb. Make sure to check the idle jet in particular.
Adjust idle if need be.
5. Check grounds and wire connections to CDI and coil/ plug
6. Valve lash should be around .003-4 intake and exhaust. I usually do a .004 on both.
7. Dump your gas tank and go fill it up with some high test.
Theses are just a few things you can try. If you can take the plug out and tell us what it looks like or even a picture that could help a lot.
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Post by tinman7809 on Jul 4, 2013 3:24:20 GMT -5
without a doubt. That honestly looks like you got something in there. You need to make sure your filter is clean and that you are not sucking in dirt somewhere.
it looks as if contaminants ran down from around the top and down the sides. My Ktm's always had this problem at sand tracks due to a very bad airbox design. My engine builder once showed me what I thought was a new cylinder but in fact a severely damaged one he had just removed from my race bike and I couldnt believe how such small imperfections / scaring of the cylinders / pistons effected performance.
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Post by tinman7809 on Jul 4, 2013 2:03:14 GMT -5
Im building a 205cc gy6. 63mm bore high compression piston, 8.2mm stroker, big head with port work. Im going to go with a flat side carb and am wondering if I should go with 30mm or 32. I can get the 30 for a decent price.
Is one easier to tune than the other?
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Post by tinman7809 on Jul 3, 2013 13:12:30 GMT -5
If he is running his plastics,Shrouds the airflow Is minimal. If he is running it without I can see it being better but still with only 1/4" clearence I would try to add either a spacer or extend it away from the valve cover. itistheride.boards.net/index.cgi?board=cbs&action=display&thread=2668I simply used a 1.25@ piece of mild steel tubing .065 wall I think, to extend it away. Cut the end that goes into the intake at a 10 degree cut so I could angle it slightly down to keep carb level. All in all cost 10-15$ |
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Post by tinman7809 on Jul 3, 2013 3:12:29 GMT -5
The only thing other than the obvious angle issue is that 4 strokes run hot and that head being so close to to the bowl may cause the fuel to heat up or even boil. Colder the fuel=more HP. The higher temps in intake and fuel temps may reduce any gains from the more efficient flow into the engine.
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Post by tinman7809 on Jul 2, 2013 14:12:08 GMT -5
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Post by tinman7809 on Jun 29, 2013 15:06:26 GMT -5
    Had my tubing finally bent and unfortunately due to the dies the shop had I had to remove the whole rear section and weld this one in. I am now going to have to remake the rear shock mount but oh well. I have a lot of parts on order and some I'm still deciding on. My gas tank selection is either a 1 gallon or a 3. 1 is only going to give me a +-55 range while a 3 is cutting it close with room. Worked on the wiring and I removed everything except the essentials. I think my blinker relay is bad as my blinkers are not working. The upper hoop/seat tubing will be cut down and welding somewhere on the up bend. |
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handlebars
by: tinman7809 - Jun 26, 2013 14:04:25 GMT -5
Post by tinman7809 on Jun 26, 2013 14:04:25 GMT -5
It slides over the shim I was just showing how it all goes together.
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handlebars
by: tinman7809 - Jun 26, 2013 14:03:00 GMT -5
Post by tinman7809 on Jun 26, 2013 14:03:00 GMT -5
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handlebars
by: tinman7809 - Jun 24, 2013 20:39:51 GMT -5
Post by tinman7809 on Jun 24, 2013 20:39:51 GMT -5
The stem on my scooter is 15/16", I had a stem from a junior bmx bike which was 1". I bought a 11/8" to 1" shim at my local bike shop for 2$ then took a small chunk out of it so I would reduce from 1" to 15/16", works just fine and I got a set of drag bars off amazon for 28$.
It did take some bending and prying but once I had it on and tightened down it felt incredibly solid.
Ill post some pics.
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by: tinman7809 - Jun 23, 2013 22:38:57 GMT -5
Post by tinman7809 on Jun 23, 2013 22:38:57 GMT -5
You want to replace the stock bars or run aftermarket ones?
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Post by tinman7809 on Jun 19, 2013 21:50:20 GMT -5
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