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Post by prodigit on Jun 2, 2013 22:07:45 GMT -5
The rollers/ variator is already maxed out at top speed.
If you're not into tuning, then just fuel up with BP Premium. These bikes run lean, and BP Premium fuel will get more out of your engine.
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Post by prodigit on Jun 2, 2013 22:06:31 GMT -5
I Sat on one, tried it a bit, and looked at that motorcycle for a while.
Personally I'd say the good is that it's a chain drive, so you can adjust the sprockets.
The bad is that it's a motorcycle, not as easy hump on or off, as a scooter.
It's heavy and about 3-4x as expensive as chinese sportsbikes that also get great gas mileage!
I've done some threads about sprocket changes on the TU forums, but they all laughed at me (because they could not understand it). So over there, are perhaps 2 knowledgeable people on the whole forum, that are not online most of the time.
Because the Suzuki was too expensive (new you usually need to add $500 dealerfee, and taxes, so your price is usually closer to $5000-5500), I went for a cheaper chinese bike, which I regret buying, however, it's been a great learning experience that bike!
My personal opinion, if you need something small, get a 150cc scooter, or get a 300-500cc motorcycle.
Sure the suzuki is great on gas, a great machine overall, but it's always at the edge on the highway.
~72-79MPH top speed, with a little wind against it drops to 65MPH, uphill 60.
It's flimsy made for a Japanese bike, though good enough for most people. Small, if you're tall.
The handlebars are way to much forward, for me they have to be upped by at least 5 in, though the cables do not allow the handlebars to be extended for more than 2 in.
It sits comfy, good seat, fun to work on, simple, it's a good bike.
Why not go with the chinese bikes? They're cheaper, and about the same in power/speed?
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Post by prodigit on Jun 2, 2013 15:48:26 GMT -5
I have ~7,2k RPM @~63MPH tops.
8k is about 500RPM in the high range. Optimally you'd be going ~63MPH @ ~7500RPM, right in the torque band. If that where the case, most likely you'd be able to go ~65MPH.
Your scooter's top speed is lower because you could up the gearing by 1 setting (taller gears in this case means lower RPM, and lower acceleration, but faster top speed).
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Post by prodigit on Jun 2, 2013 15:42:30 GMT -5
I'm basically asking how to adjust the AF ratio, when taking the carb out is impossible (or extremely difficult). Even reaching the air filter is difficult. As far as air leaks, there are none. The air filter is mounted straight on the carb, the hoses are all new, and well connected.
I'd also want to know if the jets are too small (running too lean), if I can compensate that with the A/F screw, or is it necessary to have bigger jets installed?
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Post by prodigit on Jun 1, 2013 3:48:16 GMT -5
still, regardless of who's at fault, stop when an accident happens.
A scootard on south beach once hit a red light and I was going through the green.
As I saw him, crossing the intersection, I slammed the brakes, and the guy (in flipflops) threw himself off the bike.
Nothing happened but a damaged scoot, but I still stopped to see if he was ok. He was 100% at fault. I just continued, glad no one was hurt, and my car was still in one piece, and only then called him a dumbass!
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Post by prodigit on Jun 1, 2013 3:19:35 GMT -5
Hi,
I am experiencing what I believe is an extremely lean condition on my motorcycle.
Super impossible hard starts, does not run without choke halfway open, does not start in open air, does not start well with regular gasoline.
And so on...
So let's presume that it's running way too lean.
Is there something that I can do, like locating and changing the A/F screw; without re-jetting? (problem is, I think I see and can adjust the AF screw, but I can't take out the carburetor, because it will be too much work).
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Post by prodigit on May 31, 2013 19:15:57 GMT -5
And so writing, I'm reminded of a little story my old college advisor had on her board. Something like this-- There once was an important job to do. Everybody was sure that Somebody would do it. Anybody could have done it, but Nobody did. So Everybody blamed Somebody because Anybody could've done what Nobody did. I think there was more to it, but I hope it makes its point anyways. >'Kat, never willing to leave it for Nobody to do Well, at least 'nobody' did the job, so it got done ?  (I'm a nobody) |
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Post by prodigit on May 31, 2013 18:52:18 GMT -5
I think I figured out a little more about my setup.
I tried starting it in a closed environment (lots of smoke and deadly CO/co2 lol ), and it starts there, but not outside.
I added chemtool B12 to the fuel, which is quite more energetic than fuel, and the bike started up much easier.
In order to keep the bike alive, I have to keep the choke about halfway (enriching the mixture).
Keeping it out when the engine is hot, and the bike dies.
I also noticed that at WOT, keeping the choke halfway or closing, makes very little difference. When I close the choke, the engine makes a lot more noise, and loses performance.
With the choke halfway I get the quietest running engine with most performance. But at full WOT it makes less of a difference, then say, halfway or 25% open.
This all leads me to believe that the idle jet is set too low; meaning the mixture is way too lean!
So lean that it sputters when accelerating.
The engine does not stay running unless if I WOT it the first 10-20 seconds or so.
The engine will also heat up quite fast, and start radiating a lot of heat.
Once I idle outside too long, the engine dies.
Without B12, the bike does not even start. So I'm gonna look into BP premium fuel (which is known to have more energy, as the current fuel I use, crappy chevron mid grade, which is like 25% water (meaning ethanol).
So, I'm gonna go for BP Premium fuel, and add B12 in the beginning, see if this enhanced mixture allows the bike to remain alive.
Second, I need to know how to change the A/F ratio.
THe only thing I saw was the idle screw.
On the left of it, there's a hole with a rivet in. I suppose underneath is the AF screw?
Anyone with knowledge, please help!
Thanks!
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Post by prodigit on May 31, 2013 18:45:59 GMT -5
On my BMS 260 EFI the top speed was 83MPH on the speedo (Probably around 79-82MPH real life)
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Post by prodigit on May 31, 2013 1:15:31 GMT -5
I think over here, unless the guy with the cam, and the other guy wheren't paying attention to what happened before them, they should stay and leave a testimony.
The other guy that the woman hit should have stopped, and he did not (he drove off).
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Post by prodigit on May 30, 2013 19:10:47 GMT -5
not sure I get what you're saying, I know nothing of this.
The carb was pre-mounted, in a hard to reach place on the motor, behind plastics that seem impossible to remove.
It was already hard enough to mount the needle on the carb.
I was lucky I found the fuel valve, and the idle screw, but without a manual I'm really nothing.
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Post by prodigit on May 30, 2013 17:59:10 GMT -5
Then what I don't understand is why the bike bogs down, when closing the choke (opening choke plate).; especially at idle, but less at open throttle, but still enough to let the engine die.
Now either there's something wrong with the mechanism, or the bike is running so lean, that it bogs like when it'd be running rich.
Also, why would a spark plug turn black (with choke opened; indicating a rich mixture), but die when closing the choke (leaning out the mixture)?
Doesn't make sense to me.
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Post by prodigit on May 30, 2013 16:56:29 GMT -5
My suggestion to you would be, to get a 49cc. You say 50cc or below, but in reality it's 49cc.
A 49cc worldwide is recognized as a different beast from a motorcycle.
If for some reason in your state you require a motorcycle endorsement for it, I would suggest you to find a ~125-150cc fuel injected Japanese, italian, or Korean scooter (like Puma, Piaggio, Vespa, or some other brands).
A 125cc fuel injected scooter usually gets you very near to the 100mpg, with added take off power. Really, the difference between a carbed 125cc and a carbed 50cc on fuel is minimal (you'd be going for $4,25 instead of $4 /100 miles), but the added benefit of being able to accelerate like the rest of the traffic is really a bonus; plus, being able to go 55+MPH in case you need it is welcome too!
IMHO, a true 75-100cc engine is perfect for city travel under 50MPH for one person (who's riding on level ground).
With some hills, and an occasional passenger, 125-150cc is the minimum.
Get them fuel injected, and a 125 gets ~120MPG, a 150 gets ~100MPG. Never seen a fuel injected 50cc, but I suspect they could be around ~125MPG.
Carbureted 125 should get you ~85MPG, 150cc ~70MPG, 50cc ~95MPG
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Post by prodigit on May 30, 2013 15:52:11 GMT -5
The choke has a black plastic, black, round thing mounted on it; like on this picture:  I don't have the lever (a cable solution going to a choke on the handlebars), but the black round plastic thing is there. Is it an adjustable knob? Also, on the other side, there's the idle adjustment screw. Right next to it (on the left) there's a rivet; which I believe should be the A/F mixture screw, but I'm not sure. It's very hard to see. I'll try drilling it out. |
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Post by prodigit on May 30, 2013 15:21:22 GMT -5
Ok, I've got some more info on it.
Seemingly I can start the bike, only when the battery level is good, and the starter goes fast.
I can only start the bike when the engine is cold, and the choke is fully opened.
The engine warms up really fast, but any closing the choke, makes it bog down and die (even the least reduction in choke).
Once the engine is warmed up, it just dies, and does not start anymore. throttle does not keep it alive.
concerning adjusting the cable, you can reduce throttle play with it, but if you adjust it any further, it'll do exactly the same as opening the throttle a tiny bit, or re-setting the needle clip (as resetting it would basically only raise the needle a bit).
I can not adjust the needle on this carb.
All this searching, narrows down the problem to the carburetor and the choke.
It might be jetted incorrectly (perhaps running too rich, or too lean?). I live near to ocean level.
I presume that the choke enriches the mixture when cold.
Thus it needs more fuel (running too lean).
Closing the choke while cold makes it bog down and die.
Leaving the choke opened while the engine heats up, causes it to die too.
This is a quote from a website describing another carburetor:
Does anyone know if this bi-metal is found in these type of carburetors, or is this bi-metal the enricher?
The spark plug is black, foul, indicating a too rich mixture. The strange thing is, that if the mixture would be too rich, I should be able to close the choke, to allow better airflow, no?
Doing so, makes it bog down (skip strokes), and die.
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