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Post by prodigit on Jun 14, 2013 14:03:58 GMT -5
Bwader basically got my thoughts on what I wrote.
Doesn't really matter if one is a v-twin and the other is a P-twin, they're both twins,
twins have lower MPG, and higher HP/torque usually.
That being said, the TU250x has enough HP to go on the interstate, and definitely on the highway, so it's good enough. Though I'm not willing to pay $2-3k more for a bike that can do exactly the same, only at ~10MPH lower.
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Post by prodigit on Jun 14, 2013 13:56:51 GMT -5
For my Roketa MC-05-127 (127cc), 4stroke, with mikuni carburetor, I'm looking for a vacuum petcock that will increase fuel flow when the tank is almost empty.
Which one would you recommend?
Cheap, effective, long lasting?
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Post by prodigit on Jun 14, 2013 13:52:36 GMT -5
I thought the whole cylinder block is aluminum?
Didn't know the chinese layered them.
If it is steel, then no wonder these engines last so long!
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Post by prodigit on Jun 14, 2013 13:51:15 GMT -5
They say increasing the counter spring does more against RPM drops, but I don't know if that's true.
In any case, you're good on that. Go any lighter, and chances are you will decrease your scoot's top speed.
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Post by prodigit on Jun 14, 2013 13:47:44 GMT -5
I would have to agree with OP,
I'm running a netbook, and that GIF banner is at least 25 pics it loads in my netbook's memory.
It takes up space, and uses CPU. I'm already low as is on memory, so I also would wanna 'opt-out' if I could.
I tried blocking the images with an image blocker, but have mixed results.
Right now it's working, so adblock Plus can block the specific image subdirectory, without touching the signatures, nor the rest what's available on the image domain.
It's a good way for you personally not to see the banner, without affecting the rest of the site (it's not really ads, it's just someone else's scoot you'll be blocking anyway).
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Post by prodigit on Jun 14, 2013 2:54:49 GMT -5
2T pro:
- faster acceleration and top speed for same cc's
- easier on maintenance (no engine oil changes, fewer parts)
- Smaller and lighter engine
- In most states a 49cc 2T can be ridden without special license, or in some states <50cc's don't even need to be registered/insured
2T con:
- Oil mixing with fuel causing fuel cost to rise
- Uses oil, more polluting (on a 4 stroke oil can get recycled)
- Engine wears quicker usually due to it being driven @ higher RPMs
- Usually fuel efficiency is 10-20MPG lower than 4T
I'm sure there are more things...
That being said, prices between Chinese 50 and 150cc's are minimal. The Chinese don't overcharge for putting a 3LBS heavier engine in their bikes like Americans do; so comparatively, a 150cc is faster, heavier, more fuel efficient, and cheaper in the long run, than a 50cc 2stroke, despite their $200 purchase price difference (that is, if your insurance does not go up).
A 150cc 4 stroke is also allowed to go on the highway. Even though a 2T 50cc might be fast enough to go on the highway (the legal minimum speed on the highway is 40MPH in normal traffic, the interstates is 50MPH), they are often not allowed, because traffic often goes faster (max legal speed on highway usually is 55MPH, interstate 65MPH; actual traffic on the highway is 60-65MPH, actual interstate traffic is 75-80MPH).
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Post by prodigit on Jun 14, 2013 2:48:27 GMT -5
The some of the edges of the iron piston rings, and perhaps most smaller bits of bearings come off in the first 50km. After that, the piston rings (steel) kind of scrape off the cylinder walls (aluminum), and very minor steel parts from the bearings will mix in the oil, but not much.
the ratio steel/other debris is really low (say 1 part steel, 100 parts aluminum, or so).
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Post by prodigit on Jun 14, 2013 1:56:23 GMT -5
I'd never put all synthetic oil in an aluminum block engine! Way too expensive!
We're talking ALL synthetic? That's ~$50-60/gal, compared to regular synthetic (semi-synthetic) going over the counter for $20/gal?
Aluminum block engines are not worth that. Magnetic oil filter is useless on an aluminum block engine, as the majority of the particles (99% of the metallic particles) are aluminum, which is non-magnetic; and the other major pollutant in oil is carbon, which also is non-magnetic.
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Post by prodigit on Jun 14, 2013 1:02:22 GMT -5
Most scooters have a CVT. You can clearly feel when the engine is vibrating more. You should find the thinnest oil where the engine is as stable (vibrates the least) possible. On my Roketa MC-05-127, they use a wet clutch, and gears. Because the engine's tolerance is so small, it requires thin oil. The gearbox and engine use the same oil. The gearbox needs 10W30, or preferably 15W40. 15W40 is too heavy for the engine, so I have to mix my own juice. I used to mix 10W30 with 15W40, but that's too heavy. I tried 5W30, but the wet clutch is slipping, and it's not good on the gears. So 10W30 is my perfect mix for this motorcycle. Like said, most scooters have a CVT with separate CVT oil, that's often between 75W90 to 80W140. Since the Honda clone engines are old engines, and tolerances are rather large, you can fit upto 15W40 in it without problems (that is for hot summer environments). I wouldn't go higher, because the higher, the more resistance the oil brings, and often it's cooling capacity goes down. Having too thick oil may actually be hard on the bearings, and in some cases make them overheat and break (say you're putting 15W50 or 20W50 in there, going WOT may cause extra strain on the bearings, and on top the thicker oil does not flow into these bearing rollers as easily as thinner oil, causing less cooling). There's a sweet spot, and most of the time, the best way to find that out, is at the beginning (engine break in) . Start with 5W30 or 10W30 oil, then on the next oilchange (50-100 miles) change to 10W40, the next one (150 miles) change to 15W40, and see if the engine vibrates less or more. Find that spot where it vibrates the least. (say eg: at 5W30 it vibrates a lot, 10W30 a bit, 10W40 almost not, and 15W40 almost not; then get 10W40, because it's lighter. You can also mix 10W30 and 15W40 giving 12W35. If it's not giving you good starts, do a 75/25 mixture of 10W30 and 15W40, giving something like 11,5W32,5. If the 11.5W32.5 mixture is the same as the 10W40 (engine vibration wise), you're better off with the mixture than with 10W40. Usually it never matters, because chinese engines need to be oilchanged well before the oil goes bad. The impurities are what forcing you an oilchange, not the oil losing it's lubrication. Quite often at 1000-3000 miles, the oil is still good for  -98%, but needs to be filtered. That's why bad oil goes to recycling companies, that create good oil from it, it doesn't go straight into the trash. Also, if it has starting issues, can be because of too thick oil. If starting gets tougher, let some of the oil go, and mix it with lighter oil (eg: you put 15W40 in it, but starting takes too long, get a few oz out, and fill it up with 5W30. A 50/50 mixture of 5W30 and 15W40 should give close to the same effect as 10W35 oil. |
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Post by prodigit on Jun 14, 2013 0:48:58 GMT -5
I would put oil regardless, much better protection.
Foam, you mean a sponge?
I put a little oil on the sponge, and squeeze it out. Whatever remains in it, is enough to capture small particles. If you put too much oil, the scoot might stall, or start to smoke blue or white smoke from the exhaust for a bit, but it'll get better over time, as the air filter literally sucks the sponge relatively dry.
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Post by prodigit on Jun 14, 2013 0:44:46 GMT -5
You are the cheap king!  Yeah its a 1991 Chevy cavalier convertible the top comes down with a push of he button still clean inside. Insurance is 200 bucks for 6 months. 134,000 miles now but bought with 130,000 miles. It was $300 in gas there and back so $600 bucks total in gas. You almost sounded Chinese! |
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Post by prodigit on Jun 13, 2013 19:24:34 GMT -5
Looks like you put too little oil in the gasoline, and the thing just heated up until it broke D8
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Post by prodigit on Jun 13, 2013 2:52:48 GMT -5
10W40 for South Florida
10W30 for New York
0W20 to 5W30 for Alaska and stuff..
15W40 is too heavy for a 50cc. You'll need to up the idle, and the mpg's will go down.
15W40 is good for 150cc's and up, when the engine design is older, and clearances (tolerances) are wider. Modern engines have very small clearances, and use way thinner oil.
Thinner oil allows better cooling, but on the other hand it also doesn't fight engine wear as much.
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Post by prodigit on Jun 13, 2013 2:07:06 GMT -5
MPG numbers are in! ~  MPG at best; I could run leaner, and get higher values, but 85MPG is about as best as you can get out of it. With the sprocket change that will be well in the 90MPG (est 95MPG, that is, if I'm not going WOT all the time). Plastics on dash start vibrating more loudly now, despite thinner oil. I have the impression that the clutch sometimes does not grip. If it's a wet clutch I'll have to run 10W30 or 10W40 oil. I'm thinking of installing a vacuum fuel pump, and a bigger fuel filter. |
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Post by prodigit on Jun 12, 2013 13:23:19 GMT -5
I wouldn't agree with that. Japs, and Chino's are short words, turbo language.
Besides the 'N' word is no longer meaning what it meant 10 years ago.
If you are amongst crowds of black people, saying the "N" word means 'brother' nowadays.
Meanings constantly change. They also mean one thing for someone, and another for someone else.
I mainly see it as turbo language, which is not meant derogatory. Of course, will never be used in the presence of that person, but even if,
I know a Korean guy working in a chinese engine parts store, they constantly say Jap quality, China quality; he doesn't mind.
He actually takes pride on being Korean.
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-98%, but needs to be filtered. That's why bad oil goes to recycling companies, that create good oil from it, it doesn't go straight into the trash.
MPG at best; I could run leaner, and get higher values, but 85MPG is about as best as you can get out of it.