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burping
by: prodigit - Jul 23, 2013 22:17:08 GMT -5
Post by prodigit on Jul 23, 2013 22:17:08 GMT -5
I personally would agree with keltex78. Fill her up, ride her around a bit, not too much, but enough for the coolant fluids to fill the radiator. And refill, as you might notice the reservoir level had dropped.
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Post by prodigit on Jul 23, 2013 18:18:25 GMT -5
Did anyone ever mentioned she's actually a guy with shaved legs?
LOOOL!
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Post by prodigit on Jul 23, 2013 18:15:13 GMT -5
imho, the windshield the OP posted is useless for anything below a 200cc.
The windshield redroush00 posted I also have on my ATM50, and it works well. It helps keep the rain off your chest. It's not quite large enough to cover you completely, but I'm 6'3" too, and if I bend forward I can at least put my face behind the shield when it's raining hard, to keep the biggest drops from splashing in my face.
And just like redroush00, bend the shield backwards a little, and make it a bit more curved than stock (as stock they come pretty straight).
No significant speed changes with the windshield. Just less wind on the chest; slightly more wind in the face, and some protection against rain when riding
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Post by prodigit on Jul 23, 2013 8:49:14 GMT -5
I don't know about the scooter, but definitely would want to learn about the girl!
Don't believe in AGATT on a 50cc scoot, but at least she's wearing a helmet! LOL!
Me personally, won't go without trouses, and long sleeves, gloves, and goggles on a scooter. Those are my minimum requirements; without them, I might as well go naked on a scooter!
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Post by prodigit on Jul 23, 2013 0:45:31 GMT -5
the burg is quite heavy indeed to start riding.
IMHO a 150cc is the PERFECT beginner bike, that one can learn to ride once one has mastered 2 wheel balance, and steering.
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Post by prodigit on Jul 23, 2013 0:43:25 GMT -5
Been driving for over 25 years on 2 wheels.
It took me quite a few falls to learn to drive, and from there learn the limits of the tires.
I'm not saying I'm a pro racer, but I kind of can predict with 80% certainty, how much a certain type of road will grip to my tires, or my tires to the road.
Comes with experience. Braking hard sometimes makes you slip and fall. Once you know how hard you can brake, because you slipped (went past the tire grip), you'll be more careful next time ;D
I know when I'm approaching a less stable ground, like a deep paddle of water, or a gravel road in a corner, about how fast I should enter.
I know that I probably could do 15-20% faster, and occasionally would go 10% faster, but always leave a margin for uncertainty,
Uncertainty like traffic, your environment, unexpected road conditions like slippery, or potholes, etc...
Estimating road conditions is only one of the multi tasking tasks you need to do on the road.
Your primary focus should be traffic, and environment.
Always expect the unexpected.
If you see a car parked to the side of the road, pass by it with at least 3ft distance, should the driver decide to step out of the car, and open the door.
Should you see a truck parked to the side, slow down and pass 3-5ft away from it, as there always can be a person in a hurry trying to cross the street without looking; and since it's a truck, it would block your view, and you can't see the person.
NEVER TRUST EVERYTHING WILL BE FINE!!!
ALWAYS LOOK, WHEN YOU CAN!!!
With that I mean, do not make a sharp corner on the road, to enter into another road, without looking if both on the past and coming road there are no obstacles, like objects, pedestrians, or vehicles that could block your way, or where you would block theirs.
Learn the skill of defensive driving. Expect the unexpected.
When lane changing always BML (BLINK, MIRROR, LOOK BACK), or blinkers on, look in the mirror, and if the mirror is ok, quickly look backwards before making the turn.
Don't look backwards too long, or the car before you might stop and when you look forward again, find yourself kissing the other car's rear trunk!
I usually let go of the throttle at the moment I quickly look back.
I don't need to stare backwards to get a clear view.
All I need to do is glimpse backward, for less than 1/2 second, which is good enough for your brain to process the situation behind you, even after your head is turned forward again..
A sharp clear image is not necessary. You don't need to know what the person behind you is doing besides riding. You need to know the locations of the cars, their entry speed, and calculate from there, if you can make a turn or not.
Sometimes spotting close cars in your mirrors again before making the turn...
Anyway, too much to tell...
Start with learning defensive riding.
Then start with learning the grip of the tires, by braking while riding in a straight line.
Also learn cornering (cornering usually is done <20MPH. Ride, and look at your speedo, see how fast you're going. After a while you'll 'feel' the right speed, rather than read it from the speedo.
going 45 in a 40MPH road, will 'feel' too fast.
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Post by prodigit on Jul 23, 2013 0:23:24 GMT -5
Same issue with TaoTao scooters. They have something starting with x, like Xangjing or something as brand on the title.
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Post by prodigit on Jul 21, 2013 21:01:54 GMT -5
Well it does have upgraded rims, headlights, seat, air filter box, mirrors, ...
It wouldn't surprise me if the shocks are upgraded (softer) as well, as the bike would be going a lot faster
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Post by prodigit on Jul 21, 2013 20:56:51 GMT -5
I just noticed on both my ATM50 and EVO150 that upto 8k RPM is pretty safe.
Past 9 to 10k rpm, and the bolts just ramble loose.
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Post by prodigit on Jul 20, 2013 14:25:16 GMT -5
My experience with TaoTao and Roketa is TaoTao is cheaper, uses cheaper materials (like cheaper handles, cheaper plastics, cheaper 'chrome' (= non-inox, polished steel) etc...) But it's by no means not upto the task!
If you take care for the scoot (eg park it inside) I see no reason why the TaoTao won't be upto the task of riding for tens of thousands of miles. Believe me, before the time the scoot is only halfway it's lifetime, you've already sold it, and bought another toy.
My TaoTao is only a year old, but if I can get another year and a half of fun out of it, it has paid itself back over 5x!
My Roketa is slightly better; but on my particular bike (the MC-05-127) I have sometimes a slipping clutch, which is not a minor issue, but a major issue!
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Post by prodigit on Jul 20, 2013 7:41:18 GMT -5
If you ask me, the mini 12 cylinder engine probably would not even be enough for driving a bicycle past 20MPH. But make it on a 2:1 scale, and it could be a super efficient bicycle engine!
Probably 3 to 4x bigger, and it might work on a scoot, but at the cost of 1200 hours of labor?
That thing costs over $25k to make!
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Post by prodigit on Jul 20, 2013 4:39:04 GMT -5
[replyingto=onewheeldrive]onewheeldrive[/replyingto]Inside the camshaft of an engine from idle to ~14k RPM:
Exhaust pipes glowing red when F1 engine revs to 20k RPM:
Handmade, world's smallest 12-cylinder engine:
I wonder how many MPG it would get?
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Post by prodigit on Jul 20, 2013 1:38:02 GMT -5
Adjust the idle with a long screwdriver through the hole in the bucket (under seat compartment).
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Post by prodigit on Jul 19, 2013 22:07:51 GMT -5
I think the air intake box is pretty large, and I don't think it gets restricted a lot. The exhaust tip is where it all has to come out of a <1/2in pin needle hole, so it's the most restricting factor.
Even at idle I can feel the thuds of wind coming almost 2ft away from the exhaust tip!
Regardless all bits help for sure...
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Post by prodigit on Jul 19, 2013 22:03:49 GMT -5
With 3,5x10 doughnut tires, if you go below 30PSI, they bend in corners, and the ride will feel unstable.
The 13" wheels usually have much lower profile tires, and can handle lower pressures, but I would still try to stick to higher pressures.
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