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Post by prodigit on Sept 2, 2013 12:07:29 GMT -5
Yeah, on mine it's just a rubber over the swingarm. Mine came with a 15T stock, and with the chain even the least sloppy it was eating the chain.
On my Roketa, the 15T was the largest I could get, as it has 6 grooves. Anything beyond 15T has more grooves, so unless I find a compatible adapter, I could not go higher in the front.
With a 31T in the rear, the chain only went through a little of protection rubber, but is still far enough away from the swingarm itself.
I don't know why they used rubber on mine, and not plastic?
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Post by prodigit on Sept 1, 2013 23:57:19 GMT -5
When I know I paid $800 for my chinese 150 vs 4k for my Zuma125, you bet you I'll like the 150 better! ;D I bet if you could have gotten the $995 deal for the Kymco you would have liked that even better  Well, you're right there! Only, there are no <$1k taiwanese deals out there! And there is why most people shy the Taiwanese models! It's all based on super deals, or hard finds of people getting rid of perfectly good material, and sell it at a ridiculously low price, because they don't know what the product is worth; giving deals you can only get once in a lifetime. Those chinese scoots are sold all over. There are no taiwanese scoot or motorcycle dealers in Miami, and very few in Florida. I'm not counting christmas sales, or second hand sales here. Might as well buy a $1500 second hand car for that price! lots more options than your Taiwanese scoot! All I'm saying is, that aside for these scoots to be inaccessible to me, they go for just the same high pricepoint as Japanese bikes (namely 2,5-4x the price of a Chinese new bike. Cuz if you start with second hand, you can find lots of working chinese scoots for under $300, second hand, too. Gonna beat that price with a second hand Kymco? |
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Post by prodigit on Sept 1, 2013 21:37:32 GMT -5
When I know I paid $800 for my chinese 150 vs 4k for my Zuma125, you bet you I'll like the 150 better! ;D
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Post by prodigit on Sept 1, 2013 20:47:53 GMT -5
danno: Chinese corrosion is mostly superficial, and not a lot, because most of the bike is plastic anyway. If a bike is heavily corroded at 81 miles, it's probably either sitting under an acid shower, or chloreen gas house, or perhaps is parked in a tank filled with water? Or perhaps it's been ridden only 81 miles in 20 years? We probably ignore those issues, because they happen, but they are in a vast minority. Most issues on chinese bikes only take a few tens of dollars to fix, provided you know what you're doing. Plus, chinese manufacturing has become better; with a significant quality improvement on bikes after 2009 (right after the economic collapse in 2007), just like USA cars have significantly been improved after 2009 too! My TaoTao ATM50 can lock the rear wheel while riding, with it's drum brake. My TaoTao EVO150 can lock the rear wheel when braking front and rear (weight shifts), but not the rear wheel by itself when braking only with the rear, so reliable braking on a 150? Yessur!  A chinese ABS brake will probably brake better in a panic, than sliding because of locking the front wheel! The moment your front wheel locks, you're already on the floor. I'd much rather have that split 1/2 second of time to hopefully not have an accident, than to have an accident before I even hit the target! And only once have I locked the front brakes on my BMS 260 (which had CBS (Chinese Braking System), and that was on a wet asphalt street, and the wheel was skidding too; meaning it was at the verge of it's grip; but it saved me a nasty lay down.
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Post by prodigit on Sept 1, 2013 20:05:11 GMT -5
Chinese 150's are good all round bikes. They're not really meant to go on the highway, but are good enough to go one or two exits on and off the highway. Believe it or not, but over 1/2 the mileage I have on my EVO150 is on the highway.
Highway riding builds up miles quickly!
Those 150's are light, accelerate fast, and if you have a flat floor board they can have a lot of storage space for groceries! Even work well in hilly terrain with a 200+ LBS rider!
I prefer riding 75-125cc's but prefer even a 150 over my 750cc motorcycle for small rides.
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Post by prodigit on Sept 1, 2013 19:59:31 GMT -5
Well similarly, when you have done a sprocket change to a scoot or motorcycle, you can correct me!
A valve adjustment has NOTHING, NADA to do with a sprocket change! Is like telling someone he can write a letter once he knows how to count!
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Post by prodigit on Sept 1, 2013 19:45:34 GMT -5
I think the BMS TBX 260 used the same engine and transmission as the Aeolus (Linhai 257cc engine).
Don't know about their other models, but I see no reason why not.
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Post by prodigit on Sept 1, 2013 19:23:55 GMT -5
That last statement really does not matter. Or will you tell a scooter mechanic he can't work on a certain scoot, because he has never owned or worked on one before?
I own basically the same scoot, but in motorcycle shape. They're all the same. And there's sufficient clearance to go with a 30T sprocket if you wanted to do so (however it's not adviseable because of the gearing being too heavy).
How about the day you own one, you may be able to correct me?
I'm just saying that it doesn't matter squad if I say tighten the chain, or tighten the chain within manufacturers specs. If you don't know this, you shouldn't be working on scoots, there's a sticker on almost every motorcycle and scoot telling how much chain play the chain should have.
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Post by prodigit on Sept 1, 2013 19:01:32 GMT -5
At the breakin, the only thing you need to be careful with is not to rev the bike too high.
The other method is actually balasting the engine's load (meaning riding WOT, but at low revs).
Both methods use low revs. With a high load the engine breakin will happen faster, but IMHO nothing you should worry about. Just ride it regularly and not too crazy.
As far as starting in 3rd is not good for the clutch. You may not notice it, but when you start in 3rd, WOT, the first few seconds the clutch will be slipping because your RPM is too low.
Feeling like departing in 3rd gear is a sign you need to upgear your gears. Easiest is to either change the front sprocket, or order a new rear sprocket. They're only $50 at rebelgears.com.
Hold down the rear brake, while you get the sprocket screws loose, then take out the rear wheel axle (use the center stand to lift the rear wheel off the ground, or use the car lift to lift it a bit higher), and exchange the rear sprocket.
When tightening, have someone lock the rear wheel brake, while you tighten the bolts (or you press the brake, while someone else does the bolts). A 15 min job. Front sprocket is easier, because once you go down more than 3 tooth, you'll need to remove chain links, to keep the chain at the right tension.
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Post by prodigit on Sept 1, 2013 18:27:34 GMT -5
I'm not saying he should have no chain play, but anywhere around 1-2 in play is more than enough! If the chain gets too sloppy, it'll eat through the rubber.
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Post by prodigit on Sept 1, 2013 13:03:56 GMT -5
OK, here's the difference. I have owned two Chinese scooters. One cheapo, and paid extra for one that was "better" quality. I do all my own wrenching, I know how to replace the top end, how to split the case and replace a crank, and how to tune a carb. I have also bought four new Taiwanese/Japanese scooters as well as two new Japanese motorcycles and one new Taiwanese motorcycle. Some of these came straight from the dealer and they missed a few things. But they all ran correctly, nothing had to be replaced, and they all had a long and reliable service life. And don't forget, when it's time to sell, they hold their value much better than any Chinese brand. Don't believe me if you don't want to, but there is a big difference and it's worth the extra money. As I have mentioned before, buy a "budget" Taiwanese model and you and you can be thrifty and still have superior quality. I have seen a lot of people that buy Chinese and rave about the value without ever having purchased a Taiwanese/Japanese machine. I have seen some people that buy Taiwanese/Japanese/Italian and put down Chinese as junk without ever trying one. It would be very rare to find someone that has owned both and still prefers Chinese... I don't need to own both to know my value! I've purchased a TaoTao ATM50, with shipping, tag, taxes and everything together it was less than $1000. ($800 without tag and taxes). So the value is obviously better than a Kymco or other taiwanese brand, as their lowest priced 50cc scoots all go for over $2.5k For that price I have 3x chinese scoots, and guess what, the mileage of those 3 chinese scoots, more than likely superseeds the one taiwanese. And I have 3 different bikes. One for dirt riding, one for street racing, and one for eco transportation; or one classic, one sporty, and one rough looking scoot; or one yellow, one black and one pink (in case I am in a funky mood?) All I'm saying is there is definite value in Chinese bikes, and one does not need to own a taiwanese scoot to know this! My ATM50 had 4k trouble free kilometers on it, when the blinkers stopped working, and only at 5+k kms the headlight went out, (low beam, not high beam), and the horn stopped working. Probably a wiring issue to the handlebar switch. Everything else is stock. |
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Post by prodigit on Sept 1, 2013 12:47:35 GMT -5
I also was thinking, too bad that the bike's suspension is bad. However on normal asphalt roads it shouldn't give you any problems.
My Roketa MC-05-127 has amazing suspension! I even rode at 15MPH over a road block the height of the sidewalk and survived!
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Post by prodigit on Sept 1, 2013 0:58:53 GMT -5
the speed doesn't really matter on this bike,
in the beginning you can't just rev them too high.
So it would be better to go 35MPH in 4th gear, than going 10MPH in 1st gear.
Also, downshifting (going from 4>3>2>1) should be done very tardy, meaning at very low revs. Don't downshift when the engine is revving high, unless you can compensate by opening the throttle. That's about the only shitty thing about this bike, when you enter a red light, and don't know if you need to upshift to 4th, Neutral, and back to 1, or go from 4>3>2>1st gear!
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Moving on?
by: prodigit - Aug 31, 2013 19:57:50 GMT -5
Post by prodigit on Aug 31, 2013 19:57:50 GMT -5
I have a VT750. Also did a sprocket change on it to make it rev in the 3k range on the highway instead of the 5k range.
It's a great long distance rider, but I don't particularly like riding that heavy thing around town.
My 127cc with 'lawnmower engine', is so much more fun to ride (more nimble), and in town upto 50MPH there's no real reason to take out the big guy.
Since I don't have to pay insurance in FL (unless an accident is my fault, but I'm a defensive rider), the only recurring cost is a new tag sticker every year on each of them.
I only have 3 tags, so one of them doesn't have a tag, and kinda stands like a backup in the back shed, protected from the elements.
Now and then I switch tags, between scoots, and ride it, just to keep up the battery level, and use the fuel; I-legal I know, but hey, I'm not gonna buy another tag. If one scoot is a total loss, I'll just transfer the tag.
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Post by prodigit on Aug 31, 2013 19:47:43 GMT -5
who is 80+?  |
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