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Post by JerryScript on Nov 14, 2016 15:10:37 GMT -5
My nephew's Icebear suddenly stopped working last week. It made a bad noise from the crankcase, and would only start with lots of throttle and would not keep running.
I tore the top end down first, no issue with the head, jug, or piston, so I had to split the case. As soon as I it apart, I grabbed some oil from the inside on my fingers, and it was silver. I cleaned out at least a 1/4 teaspoon of very fine metal. Pulled the crankshaft, and the outer bearings were fine, though one did have a slight bit of drag. Grabbed the con-rod and found at least 1/8" play up and down. No damage to the rest of the internal parts of the engine, no wear or scrapes of any type. Looks like the con-rod bearing failed, so I'll be heading to Scrappy's tomorrow for a new crankshaft.
This Icebear has a 47mm BBK, which is generally not a big enough upgrade to cause crankshaft failure. My nephew does ride 2-up alot, giving friends rides everywhere, so it could have been stress, but I'm leaning towards a manufacturing flaw that finally failed after a year.
For those curious, it's ok to have a tiny bit of play side to side on the connecting rod, but up and down play is very bad. It can cause the piston to hit the head, and will make it appear as if you've lost compression, since the chamber area is larger with the con-rod able to move further back. Over time, it can shatter the skirt, or end up with catastrophic crankshaft failure, worst case blowing the engine.
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Post by cyborg55 on Nov 14, 2016 16:17:33 GMT -5
Ouch
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Post by pistonguy on Nov 14, 2016 21:59:00 GMT -5
Owwie for sure There is a Side Clearance Spec, The Spec for up and Down Is Zero nada nothing I would love to see some Pics?? please
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Post by onewheeldrive on Nov 15, 2016 1:05:47 GMT -5
Double check and count the teeth on the crankshaft sprocket that drives the oil pump gear, most are 16t, but the last couple cranks in the engines I had were 22t. Not something you want to find out after putting the case back together, like I did. At least Scrappy offers both, the 16t and 22t. 2 or 3 years ago, none of the vendors here had them (the 22t) on their sites, nor does % of the sites out there. Sprocket swap works though.
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Post by cyborg55 on Nov 15, 2016 20:37:06 GMT -5
The trials and tribulations of roller cranks,,,, my last bunch of bikes have been rollers,,, the Stella is full roller and needle,,,, the BMW I just got is plain bearing,,, almost seems weird to own it
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Post by JerryScript on Nov 20, 2016 21:37:09 GMT -5
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Post by cyborg55 on Nov 20, 2016 22:53:15 GMT -5
Good job Jerry ,,,there's a bone right there
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Post by JerryScript on Nov 21, 2016 17:12:20 GMT -5
Thanks cyborg55! Got the woodruff key, slapped her back together, started up after about 30 seconds of priming. Took her for a spin around the block, no problems other than a little bit of adjustments needed (carb, rear brake, ect).
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Post by crawford on Nov 21, 2016 20:31:50 GMT -5
Wow good to have parts just down the road road. But it was a good thing you caught it early when you did right other then what might have been.
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Post by pistonguy on Nov 25, 2016 18:43:41 GMT -5
My nephew's Icebear suddenly stopped working last week. It made a bad noise from the crankcase, and would only start with lots of throttle and would not keep running. I tore the top end down first, no issue with the head, jug, or piston, so I had to split the case. As soon as I it apart, I grabbed some oil from the inside on my fingers, and it was silver. I cleaned out at least a 1/4 teaspoon of very fine metal. Pulled the crankshaft, and the outer bearings were fine, though one did have a slight bit of drag. Grabbed the con-rod and found at least 1/8" play up and down. No damage to the rest of the internal parts of the engine, no wear or scrapes of any type. Looks like the con-rod bearing failed, so I'll be heading to Scrappy's tomorrow for a new crankshaft. This Icebear has a 47mm BBK, which is generally not a big enough upgrade to cause crankshaft failure. My nephew does ride 2-up alot, giving friends rides everywhere, so it could have been stress, but I'm leaning towards a manufacturing flaw that finally failed after a year. For those curious, it's ok to have a tiny bit of play side to side on the connecting rod, but up and down play is very bad. It can cause the piston to hit the head, and will make it appear as if you've lost compression, since the chamber area is larger with the con-rod able to move further back. Over time, it can shatter the skirt, or end up with catastrophic crankshaft failure, worst case blowing the engine. Ok other than Debri, Pistonguy is still trying to figure out how you bust the Skirt of a Piston with the above mentioned.
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Post by pistonguy on Nov 25, 2016 18:44:58 GMT -5
The only time I have had a Piston click the head was in a 1428 Farmall with a 426ci diesel that spun a bearing.
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Post by JerryScript on Nov 25, 2016 20:14:23 GMT -5
Extra play can cause skirt or jug sleeve to be damaged, though I've never personally seen one. Main issue I've always experienced is loss of compression, and once I saw a con-rod seized.
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