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Post by jkt97401 on Apr 6, 2013 1:09:25 GMT -5
Hi all, this is my first post here! I bought a 2008 CF Moto v5 a few days ago an it has been sitting for a while. I'm completely new to the inner mechanical workings of vehicles. My brother helped me to get this puppy running, it took a new spark plug and some starter fluid but she roared to life! The bike sputtered and died the first few times but after it warmed up, it idled pretty comfortably for a few minutes without wanting to die. The issue is, the bike only wants to start with the starter fluid. Does anyone have any suggestions for my brother and I to get it running smoothly? PS. the air filter foam was pretty saturated with what appeared to be oil, this seemed odd to me so I thought I'd add it in. Is this normal?  |
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Post by domindart on Apr 6, 2013 1:44:42 GMT -5
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Post by DaveC on Apr 6, 2013 2:49:12 GMT -5
You say it's been sitting for a while.
My guess the carb is all gunked up
Before tearing it apart and cleaning the jets, run a crapload of seafoam thru it.
( pour a half a can into a full tank of new gas and keep it running)
If that don't work you're gonna have to take off the carb and clean ig out.
Let us know
Oil in filter not good.
Clean or replace
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Post by jkt97401 on Apr 6, 2013 2:51:41 GMT -5
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Post by Jarlaxle on Apr 6, 2013 5:44:29 GMT -5
How old is the fuel? Did you use fresh gas?
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Post by woowilly on Apr 6, 2013 11:25:10 GMT -5
I've resurected several old engines that have been sitting unused for years with gas left in 'em at work. Usually the carb jets are restricted or plugged by the old gas varnish/tar like gunk or dirt.
The routine is: Clean carb with carb cleaner, install a new fuel filter, get it started, readjust mixture screw 'till it starts and runs well. Then the next time I try to start it a few days or a week later, repeat the above due to the carb getting plugged up by the crud in the gas tank the new gas worked loose that made it's way to the carb...
eventually the injector/valve cleaners in mordern gas cleans it up to the point it stabilizes provided it's run some every week or so and fresh gas keeps being run through it.
You might get by with just adjusting the mixture screw, if it's set slighty lean it'll be hard to start, if slightly rich, it'll start easily but foul the sparkplug at idle over time and be sputtering rich at idle.
Usually the best mixture screw setting is a compromise for plug fouling, performance and ease of starting. there are several videos you can find on youtube with Google on how to set the mixture screw. I would just screw it in until it lightly bottoms out, make a note the number of turns it took, use that for a baseline setting, then open it back to that setting plus a 1/4 turn and try it, then repeat going a 1/4 turn more.each time. there's a possibility you may have to go leaner from the baseline setting by screwing in the mixture screw, but I think you'll find the baseline setting is too lean not rich.
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Post by jkt97401 on Apr 6, 2013 14:17:42 GMT -5
[replyingto=jarlaxle]Jarlaxle[/replyingto]The fuel was old, we drained it and added all new fuel.
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Post by jkt97401 on Apr 6, 2013 14:19:23 GMT -5
[replyingto=jkt97401]jkt97401[/replyingto]Thanks for the input!
As stated above, I don't know anything about working on the inner workings of vehicles (Yet!) but I will relay the information to my brother and he'll show me sometime this week.
Thank you all for the responses, I'll let you know what we do and what the outcomes are!
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Post by jkt97401 on Apr 7, 2013 23:57:39 GMT -5
Alright guys, so I seafoamed my bike! There wasn't a ton of smoke, the bike actually moved this time! Before when I got it to start, if I tried to give it any gas it would die. I'm going to try and cold start it tomorrow and see how that goes!
Thanks again for all your helps.
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Post by DaveC on Apr 8, 2013 0:26:59 GMT -5
[replyingto=jkt97401]jkt97401[/replyingto]That's it
I know, a couple days late
Run another crapload thru it
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 8, 2013 0:47:44 GMT -5
For sever gunk build up its best to remove the idle and main jet in the carb by removing the bowl on the bottom . I use spray and blow through em or you could use a stiff solid wire . The Teflon intakes are known for rotting and cracking thus causing leaks . I think you have a Kehin carb which is a very good brand and easy to get parts like jets and rebuild kit . Does it have a decompression tube ? My CFMoto Echarm does and if I redline it sometimes a sip of oil gets in the tube as its capped but does not leak a drop . I would change the oil ASAP just to be safe even if the color looks good . Now most scooters use GL5 which is 80w  gear lube like cars use but my Echarm uses 15w 40 motor oil in the gears and needs to be changed every 1,000 miles with the oil . Make sure to remove and clean the oil screen too CFMoto makes a great engine but it does not have an aftermarket like the GY6 which has boocoos . Being LC or liquid cooled I would change out the coolant to be safe with Prestone that says safe for aluminum from any auto parts store and once its filled up start it up with the cap off and burp the air out prior to riding . Should have plenty of power but if you desire more I saw a 300cc BBK with 4 valve head at www.scootertronics.com . I would NEVER buy from them as I have read several complaints but their site is easy to find parts and you can see if you can find elsewhere from a reputable vendor . Since your a green wrench I will tell you all of the 4T or 4 stroke engines will need to have the valves adjusted at least once . Moist get too tight or do not open up enough and do not allow enough fuel and air to start or run the engine and it baffles most shade tree mechanics minds as it may have fire , compression and fuel but not start . Mine on the other hand were loose and it would stall just before coming to a stop unless I gave it some throttle but start right up . This was at 2,200 miles and once reset it was new again and I am just under 15,000 miles and still runs strong |
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Post by jkt97401 on Apr 8, 2013 2:03:14 GMT -5
For sever gunk build up its best to remove the idle and main jet in the carb by removing the bowl on the bottom . I use spray and blow through em or you could use a stiff solid wire . The Teflon intakes are known for rotting and cracking thus causing leaks . I think you have a Kehin carb which is a very good brand and easy to get parts like jets and rebuild kit . Does it have a decompression tube ? My CFMoto Echarm does and if I redline it sometimes a sip of oil gets in the tube as its capped but does not leak a drop . I would change the oil ASAP just to be safe even if the color looks good . Now most scooters use GL5 which is 80w gear lube like cars use but my Echarm uses 15w 40 motor oil in the gears and needs to be changed every 1,000 miles with the oil . Make sure to remove and clean the oil screen too CFMoto makes a great engine but it does not have an aftermarket like the GY6 which has boocoos . Being LC or liquid cooled I would change out the coolant to be safe with Prestone that says safe for aluminum from any auto parts store and once its filled up start it up with the cap off and burp the air out prior to riding . Should have plenty of power but if you desire more I saw a 300cc BBK with 4 valve head at www.scootertronics.com . I would NEVER buy from them as I have read several complaints but their site is easy to find parts and you can see if you can find elsewhere from a reputable vendor . Since your a green wrench I will tell you all of the 4T or 4 stroke engines will need to have the valves adjusted at least once . Moist get too tight or do not open up enough and do not allow enough fuel and air to start or run the engine and it baffles most shade tree mechanics minds as it may have fire , compression and fuel but not start . Mine on the other hand were loose and it would stall just before coming to a stop unless I gave it some throttle but start right up . This was at 2,200 miles and once reset it was new again and I am just under 15,000 miles and still runs strong At the risk of sounding like a noob, I have to ask, what do you mean by "300cc BBK"? |
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Post by skuttadawg on Apr 8, 2013 2:12:00 GMT -5
You have a 250cc engine . 300cc is a lil bigger as BBK = big bore kit which is a larger piston and cylinder than stock
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Post by ridecheap on Apr 8, 2013 9:38:58 GMT -5
Hi all, this is my first post here! I bought a 2008 CF Moto v5 a few days ago an it has been sitting for a while. air filter foam was pretty saturated with what appeared to be oil, this seemed odd to me so I thought I'd add it in. Is this normal? The fact the air filter is saturated with oil is not a good thing at all. Someone posted this when they tracked down the cause of that: I took it outside and started it up and wow did I ever see a problem. As I mentioned above the valve cover vents down to a small reservoir which then is vented up to the airbox and it also has a large clear drain tube and plug. I stared it up with airbox connected to the carb and right away that tube filled with oil. I removed the connection from carb to airbox so there is no air intake and it still filled. I then removed the plug and drained the oil out of the tube and left the plug off. I started the engine and oil was blowing out of the tube like spray paint Turns out the bike needed new valves. There it was, the top ring was somewhat functional but the second was totally stuck and there were scorch marks and smearing on one side of the piston. |
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Post by ridecheap on Apr 8, 2013 9:50:02 GMT -5
Hi all, this is my first post here! I bought a 2008 CF Moto v5 a few days ago an it has been sitting for a while. air filter foam was pretty saturated with what appeared to be oil, this seemed odd to me so I thought I'd add it in. Is this normal? The fact the air filter is saturated with oil is not a good thing at all. Someone posted this when they tracked down the cause of that: I took it outside and started it up and wow did I ever see a problem. As I mentioned above the valve cover vents down to a small reservoir which then is vented up to the airbox and it also has a large clear drain tube and plug. I stared it up with airbox connected to the carb and right away that tube filled with oil. I removed the connection from carb to airbox so there is no air intake and it still filled. I then removed the plug and drained the oil out of the tube and left the plug off. I started the engine and oil was blowing out of the tube like spray paint Turns out the bike needed new valves. There it was, the top ring was somewhat functional but the second was totally stuck and there were scorch marks and smearing on one side of the piston. |
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gear lube like cars use but my Echarm uses 15w 40 motor oil in the gears and needs to be changed every 1,000 miles with the oil . Make sure to remove and clean the oil screen too