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Post by scootdoggydog on May 27, 2016 11:56:21 GMT -5
My horn stopped working well not actually the horn I think it might be the horn switch so I guess ill need a replacement switch cluster? Im looking for a cheaper alternative than replacing the whole cluster though maybe rebuild the switch or install a different switch without having to replace the whole cluster?
I'm not even sure the switch is the problem although I think it is. When i press the switch nothing really happens I hear a very faint echo I thought maybe it was the horn but I tested it straight to the battery and it was very loud. So I used a multi-meter to check for dc volts at the horn connections and the highest voltage I was getting there was 5v.
Anybody got any suggestions?
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Post by rcq92130 on May 27, 2016 14:31:09 GMT -5
Blow harder?
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Post by scootdoggydog on May 27, 2016 14:47:24 GMT -5
funny. I checked the switch and it seems to be working fine now Im thinking about just rewiring the horn could anybody tell me how to do this? Do i need some sort of fuse or relay?
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Post by crawford on May 27, 2016 14:56:16 GMT -5
If the horn is lose it breaking ground make sure it is tight. also these are made cheep than take a side of battery run wire for a quick test to horn and no work horn junk.
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Post by scootdoggydog on May 27, 2016 15:14:25 GMT -5
I tested the horn its an aftermarket freeway blaster the horn is fine. The switch also seems fine it was a little corroded so I cleaned it up. Now Im thinking the problem is in the wiring somewhere.
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Post by scootdoggydog on May 27, 2016 18:06:41 GMT -5
Why would I only get 5 volts at the horn connections though? Does anybody have a diagram for how a horn is supposed to be wired?
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Post by ricardoguitars on May 27, 2016 19:28:21 GMT -5
It should be 12 volts, a bad connection can reduce the voltage, I guess you have a bad cable/connection somewhere between the battery and the horn.
I want to rewire my scoot with 12 gauge wire and quality connectors, I've had way to many electrical problems related to the crappy, thin wires used on this things.
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Post by scootdoggydog on May 30, 2016 21:21:20 GMT -5
Well I tore into it and found a few problems one of them might have even saved my life. As I was checking all the connections I noticed my rear shock mount at the frame was loose the bolt was hanging out of the hole on a downward angle I was surprised it hadn't fallen out it was so loose. So I tightened it up and continued checking connections looking for resistance with the multimeter I think I traced it down to one of the horns wires that connected to the switch most of the connections were badly corroded and one of the wires looked like it got pinched by something. The wires are so small they break and get corroded easily. Im surprised there werent more electrical issues other than just the horn. It looked like half my lights shouldnt have been working but they were. I would like to upgrade the wires and connections theyre getting old. I think 12 gauge wires might be a little too big. But I definitely want to upgrade them. Im guessing it wont be cheap or easy with all the different color wires and everything.
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Post by ricardoguitars on May 31, 2016 8:08:25 GMT -5
Well I tore into it and found a few problems one of them might have even saved my life. As I was checking all the connections I noticed my rear shock mount at the frame was loose the bolt was hanging out of the hole on a downward angle I was surprised it hadn't fallen out it was so loose. So I tightened it up and continued checking connections looking for resistance with the multimeter I think I traced it down to one of the horns wires that connected to the switch most of the connections were badly corroded and one of the wires looked like it got pinched by something. The wires are so small they break and get corroded easily. Im surprised there werent more electrical issues other than just the horn. It looked like half my lights shouldnt have been working but they were. I would like to upgrade the wires and connections theyre getting old. I think 12 gauge wires might be a little too big. But I definitely want to upgrade them. Im guessing it wont be cheap or easy with all the different color wires and everything. You don't need different color cables, you can have different color connectors instead and cable tags, that's what I will do with mine. |
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Post by JerryScript on May 31, 2016 12:26:37 GMT -5
I agree, a bit of masking tape wrapped around the ends of the cut wires and colored with markers is probably cheaper than a bunch of different spools of colored wires.
When I was 17, I messed up the installation of my first car stereo. I had wrapped all the ground cables together, and it was working fine. I listened to it as I was screwing the dashboard back in. All of a sudden, smoke started pouring out of the vents. I panicked screaming for my Dad who calmly walked out and removed the battery ground cable. I took the dashboard back off, and found I had forgotten to attach those wrapped together ground cables to an actual ground. I had melted the entire main wiring harness (old Subaru). My Dad told me I could spend $120 on a new wiring harness, or $20 on new wire and rebuild it myself. I was a broke teenager, so I learned the hard way by rebuilding the wiring harness, and I used masking tape with markers to color code everything.
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Post by scootdoggydog on May 31, 2016 17:00:09 GMT -5
How long do you think before they get discolored or the tags wear off?
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Post by Paladin on May 31, 2016 17:40:10 GMT -5
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Post by JerryScript on May 31, 2016 18:22:04 GMT -5
How long do you think before they get discolored or the tags wear off? They could get discolored quick, depending on air flow around them and road conditions where you ride. A dab of silicon on top of the color might make it last. |
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Post by ricardoguitars on May 31, 2016 18:25:07 GMT -5
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