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Post by tvnacman on Dec 10, 2015 18:45:42 GMT -5
did you squirt some fuel in?
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Post by murkyapricot on Dec 10, 2015 19:02:56 GMT -5
did you squirt some fuel in? Yes right in the intake manifold vac line, still doing same thing as video |
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Post by murkyapricot on Dec 10, 2015 19:05:05 GMT -5
Ive also noticed when i spin the variator by hand i can hear a light air blowing sound, is this normal?
As I'm spinning it the resistance changes, at certain points it's difficult to spin then when it loosens up that's when i hear the air sound
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Post by ricardoguitars on Dec 10, 2015 20:36:34 GMT -5
Ive also noticed when i spin the variator by hand i can hear a light air blowing sound, is this normal? As I'm spinning it the resistance changes, at certain points it's difficult to spin then when it loosens up that's when i hear the air sound When the piston is going up it is harder to move because it is compressing air, when it goes down it is easier to move, that's normal. Have you checked the hoses and carb for vacuum leaks? To do so, get a spray can of carb cleaner, if you manage to get the scooter on, spray some carb cleaner over the hoses, intake manifold and carb, if you hear a change on the engine, that's where your vacuum leak is located. NOTE: Have a fire extinguisher handy, the carb cleaner can catch fire when it gets in contact with the hot spots of the engine. |
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Post by murkyapricot on Dec 10, 2015 20:57:26 GMT -5
Ive also noticed when i spin the variator by hand i can hear a light air blowing sound, is this normal? As I'm spinning it the resistance changes, at certain points it's difficult to spin then when it loosens up that's when i hear the air sound When the piston is going up it is harder to move because it is compressing air, when it goes down it is easier to move, that's normal. Have you checked the hoses and carb for vacuum leaks? To do so, get a spray can of carb cleaner, if you manage to get the scooter on, spray some carb cleaner over the hoses, intake manifold and carb, if you hear a change on the engine, that's where your vacuum leak is located. NOTE: Have a fire extinguisher handy, the carb cleaner can catch fire when it gets in contact with the hot spots of the engine. The problem is I can't get it to start at all I already cleaned the carb connected all the hoses, that's one of the parts I'm very familiar with All it will do is what it does in the video |
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 10, 2015 21:11:05 GMT -5
compression test it
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Post by murkyapricot on Dec 10, 2015 21:15:29 GMT -5
I did and i didn't get any reading
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Post by crawford on Dec 10, 2015 22:07:01 GMT -5
no compression it won't start you need to inspect valves make sure they are both closing on compression timing mode if you find its right pull head check head gasket if blown if ok pull cylinder off check cylinder for damage and look at piston for broken rings.
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Post by murkyapricot on Dec 11, 2015 0:00:34 GMT -5
no compression it won't start you need to inspect valves make sure they are both closing on compression timing mode if you find its right pull head check head gasket if blown if ok pull cylinder off check cylinder for damage and look at piston for broken rings. How do i know when they are closing? |
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Post by crawford on Dec 11, 2015 4:14:46 GMT -5
you pull valve cover turn engine till you see both valves close then feel rocker arms see if any movement you should feel a little
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Post by murkyapricot on Dec 11, 2015 10:20:35 GMT -5
Would it be smart at this point to just order a top end rebuild kit? It seems like this is what the problem is pointing to
Sorry for so many questions, but if I do rebuild the top end should I go ahead and replace the valves as well? Id prefer to spend as little as possible, but most importantly I want to fix it the correct way so I want to make sure I get everything I need.
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Post by murkyapricot on Dec 11, 2015 19:27:52 GMT -5
Also I've watched a few videos on replacing the piston, they never mention if you need to drain the oil first or not.. so I'm assuming no?
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Post by ricardoguitars on Dec 11, 2015 19:50:25 GMT -5
Also I've watched a few videos on replacing the piston, they never mention if you need to drain the oil first or not.. so I'm assuming no? Yes, replace the oil with dyno oil for brake in; in fact, you have to replace it after just a few miles with the new piston on on the brake in period. |
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Post by murkyapricot on Dec 11, 2015 23:01:33 GMT -5
Is there a link anywhere showing a good vs bad piston? I'm not really sure start type of wear im supposed to expect, or how to pin point what was causing the issue
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Post by murkyapricot on Dec 17, 2015 9:37:25 GMT -5
Has anyone rebuilt a top end without removing the engine? Seems like it would save me considerable time, but I'm worried it might make it too difficult
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