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Post by andremckayatx on Oct 31, 2015 13:12:29 GMT -5
I recently purchased a 2015 Chelsea BMS 150cc in a few cities outside of my current city. Basically too far to be going for tuneups etc.. Im interested in knowing where I could find manuals on how to do scheduled tuneups and maintanince etc myself like Oil changes, filter changes, etc... The user manual really doesnt have much in there in regards to these things. I want to change the oil and I read theres an oil filter as well. The problem is I dont know if the oil filter is an actual filter like I found on Amazon : Scooter Oil FilterBuddy 150, Buddy 125, Blur 150, ET4, LX 150, GT200: Automotive amzn.to/1KN9i61or is it just the filter that comes on the drain plug? Thanks for your help and I hope to find some group rides in the LA & OC areas of California.
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Post by spandi on Oct 31, 2015 13:45:16 GMT -5
Hello and welcome! Right here a IITR you'll find manuals on how to fix most anything, also since it's a clone of the Honda 150 GY6, parts and information won't be that difficult to find. Happy riding! P.S. I use the Honda manual for the CN250 scoot to work on my Chinese 250 clone engine. (the same only in 150 should work for you.) www.familygokarts.com/manuals/ace/arrow150_engine_service_manual.pdfBTW, the filter is the metal screen in the drain plug opening.
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Post by oldchopperguy on Oct 31, 2015 17:14:51 GMT -5
Welcome to the site!
The Honda GY6 150 clones are like the Chevy or Ford of scooterdom... I rode a Xingyue 150 for seven years (same basic engine) and found any needed parts, like CDI, carb, coil, variator, belts etc. were all available on eBay at reasonable prices. There are also good vendors here on the site.
These scooters are easy to work on and if yours gives any of the typical "Chinese bugs" there are plenty of us who can give you advice, recommend fixes, etc.
Increased speeds of local traffic finally prompted me to go to a 250 just for safety, but unless you need to cruise over 50 mph, a good 150 is great transportation.
I've ridden big bikes all my life, but enjoyed my 150 just as much, for many years.
Best wishes! Any problems, questions, etc. just post and we'll help you out...
Ride safe,
Leo in Texas
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Post by crawford on Oct 31, 2015 17:20:16 GMT -5
Welcome to site
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Post by andremckayatx on Nov 1, 2015 16:58:01 GMT -5
Thanks so much for your time. Really loving the scoot life. Got rid of the Car just last month and this has been so liberating. Now all I want to do is learn how to wrench on it as I'd like to get better mileage out of it, more power off the line and in general etc... looking at a couple upgrades but I still am really a newb as I will have to get confirmation before buying any exhaust kit etc just to make sure I dont buy the wrong thing.
Going to paint it flat black and figure out the best way to get all the chrom painted in copper. Sounds like a lot of work but I'm 33 and have been a cyclist my whole life. Didnt get my first car till last year and i hated everything about it. Especially since I live in a little shack on the beach in Orange County California but now that I commute to Downtown LA for work I am so much happier on a scooter so selling the car was my best idea.
Thanks for your time again folks.
Andre McKay
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Post by oldchopperguy on Nov 1, 2015 23:57:08 GMT -5
Andre,
You sound like you were "born to scoot"... LOL!
Since my original 150 was virtually the same scoot as yours, I can tell you what worked for me. Some of these 150's run fine with the original air-filter configuration, but mine would not. I replaced it with a UNI "sock" filter. That finally worked well, and required a mild up-jet of the main carb jet. The idle jet was OK. I also had to tweak the "needle" that raises the carb slide up and down, to eliminate bogging on acceleration.
The original CDI (the electronic ignition module) went bad the first year, and I replaced it with a no-rev-limit performance CDI off eBay for about $20. THAT made a big difference in overall performance. (Please note: these parts are NOT waterproof, so avoid hitting ANY electrics with a spray-wash).
Same year, the coil went bad and I replaced it with a Bando coil off eBay (again, about $20). That ended my coil problems and worked well with the new CDI. I also added an iridium plug which worked well with the CDI and coil.
These engine mods are the easy "plug n' play" variety requiring little work and few tools.
Now for the TWO mods that made the MOST difference after getting the engine running as good as possible:
1. A full- 1-inch inside-diameter EXHAUST HEADER. I made one from a John Deere generator header, but you can buy them, along with a good muffler. The header makes more difference than the muffler in my opinion. The stock headers are usually SMALLER than the exhaust-port in the head... That causes serious restriction right where it does the most harm. Even the stock small headers can be "chamfered" or beveled at the port, to ease the exhaust gases into the header. The larger header greatly improved overall running and ease-of-tuning, without requiring re-jetting of the carb.
2. A performance variator, with carefully selected roller-weights. Stock, my Xingyue had fair acceleration, an all out top-speed of about 54 mph and a realistic "cruise" of 45 mph. After the variator/weight work, it had better acceleration, a top-speed of 62 mph and a realistic cruise of 50 mph. For rollers, I first tried 11-gram, but they were too light, giving FAST acceleration but a top-speed of only 45 mph at over 9K rpm. Then, I tried 12-gram but they were too heavy, giving a top-speed of 65 mph, but NO acceleration or hill-climbing ability.
So... I mixed 3 ea. 11-gram, and 3 ea. 12-gram rollers, and THAT was perfect. Good acceleration, good cruise, and a top end of 62 mph.
If you experiment with roller weights, I'd go with SLIDERS instead. They offer some advantages over rollers.
One last item I added was a cooling-fan-scoop. Around here, it often gets over 100 degrees, and the scoop, with an extension I made to get it out past the plastic lowered my oil-temp by more than 20 degrees! If your area stays below degrees or so, the scoop won't make too much difference, but they don't hurt!
Here are a few pix showing the exhaust I used, and the fan scoop...
Below, you can see the exhaust, Bando coil, UNI filter AND the fan-scoop/extension. I used a 2-stroke "chamber" exhaust, but any good muffler is fine. It's the HEADER diameter that makes the difference.
Each of these mods added just a little more performance, but all together they really made the scooter much more reliable, quicker, faster and more suitable for the road.
Hope these ideas may help you out.
Leo in Texas
PS: These little 150's are approx. 10 cubic-inches. They put out around 9-11 hp, which averages about 1 hp per cubic-inch. To me, THAT is plenty of horsepower. So ESPECIALLY with a daily-driver like yours, I would stay away from any major internal engine mods. You need the scooter to start and run RELIABLY day after day...
After seven years riding mine, I truly believe in keeping engine mods only to those that improve running and reliability. You can REALLY get the MOST out of a 150 daily-transportation scoot with the simple upgrades to ignition, carburetion, exhaust and ESPECIALLY, the CVT. Particularly the roller or slider weights.
All the mods I did were to provide MORE RIDING and LESS WRENCHING... LOL!
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Post by cato on Nov 4, 2015 12:29:56 GMT -5
ditched my car for full time scootering myself....just in time for a cold arse winter. burrrrrr! saving gas, insurance, maintenance and registration costs though! I'll put some of that money into cold riding gear and better tires. thinking of getting the Shinko's from Scrappy....
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