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Post by lain on Jun 18, 2015 8:45:23 GMT -5
Besides breaking in a new engine valves usually tighten from use, the exhaust tightens more because it is the hottest valve. That horribly off gap might have been a big issue with trying to start it before.
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Post by mms1361 on Jun 18, 2015 8:52:04 GMT -5
Alright then so 0.004 and 0.005 sounds good?
I have no idea what the is wrong with the center stand. The bolt thats welded is also stripped. I just purchased to m10 bolts to replace the kickstand ones with blue loctite. I cant possibly think of any way that the center stand will stay put vertically. It still leans forward like in the pictures. Maybe the part that butts up against the frame is too worn or maybe it didnt lift the rear tire to begin with.
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Post by mms1361 on Jun 18, 2015 8:52:19 GMT -5
Alright then so 0.004 top and 0.005 bottom sounds good?
I have no idea what the is wrong with the center stand. The bolt thats welded is also stripped. I just purchased to m10 bolts to replace the kickstand ones with blue loctite. I cant possibly think of any way that the center stand will stay put vertically. It still leans forward like in the pictures. Maybe the part that butts up against the frame is too worn or maybe it didnt lift the rear tire to begin with.
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Post by ricardoguitars on Jun 18, 2015 11:30:29 GMT -5
0.004 and 0.005 is fine.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 18, 2015 12:13:35 GMT -5
lain I got the manual off the roketa website via the owners manual link www.roketa.com/product/36066/0/2620.shtml It doesnt state wether the gap is inch or metric on the manual. Im assuming its a metric gap which would make it the rough equivalent of 0.005 in imperial measurement(US) 0.005 in = 0.127 mm  Hopefully im doing thing right, I removed the valve cover and didnt notice much RTV squeezed over the edge. It was on there pretty tight even after removing the valve cover bolts. I had to use a screwdriver handle and bang it to release the bond of the RTV valve cover gasket. I aligned the fan on the T mark. I checked the cam gear and the big circle is centered in the middle with the two smaller circles being level with the valve case. I took initial readings and the top valve is at 0.004, however the bottom valve is wayy too tight. Its sitting below 0.0016. I live in arizona, (hot weather), running 10w40 oil, what do you recommend i run?
Is the bottom valve the intake or exhaust?
Dont the valves generally loosen up with use, maybe it came too tight from the factory and it was never adjusted or it was adjusted improperly..Also it looks like my cluster is in KM, so i have roughly 3700mi on the scoot. geh3333 I dont think that cleaner is going too do much now. All the clear lenses have heavy UV damage. The only way i see it clearing up is if theres a chemical reaction that will make the plastic clear. I sanded most of the yellow/fog up and polished the lenses by hand. They really need to be replaced but its not worth the investment at the moment. I might buy some clear colored spray paint to cover the yellow. At this point it probably won't, since you already sanded and polished it. I always thought the yellowing was not able to be cleaned off , but I was shocked when this degreaser actually took it off. I was just going to clean the lenses a little , but when I sprayed the lenses the yellowing ran off with the degreaser . its still somewhat foggy , but not yellowed anymore . |
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Post by mms1361 on Jun 19, 2015 1:53:36 GMT -5
geh3333 Well i went to two stores looking for that super clean degreaser. I didnt find any. So i looked up the base ingredient and it was sodium hydroxide. That is the main ingredient in oven degreasers too so i bought that instead. I tried using it on the lense but it had no effect. I did see the foam yellowing up but i think these lenses have been in the sun wayyyy too long. The degreaser seems to have fogged part of the lense now, hopefully i can remove it, if not, its not a big deal. Replaced the gear oil today and assembled some of the trim. Reattached the valve cover. My lock shipment arrived today in my state. Hopefully its sent out for delivery this morning and will delivered a day earlier than expected. Cant wait  I think im going to go ahead and respray the plastic fairings. Anyone have any ideas for colors? I was thinking a dark grey top with the silver bottom. Hopefully i can match the silver paint on the bottom enough to keep the Roketa logo. As for the top, i want to completely get rid of the hydraulic suspension and Z - BIKE decals. These are all the parts along with the associated costs that have come along so far.
New igntion Lockset 15.99
2x Black Trim Paint 15.98
Hi Temp RTV 7.49
80w90 Gear Oil 4.19 Feeler Gagues 3.99 Fuses 3.49
Zip Ties 2.99 1 gal of  octane gas 2.80 10w40 4t Engine Oil Free (stored)
Dot 3 Brake Fluid Free (stored)
2 part Epoxy Free (stored)
Brake Cleaner Free (stored) If i want to repaint the fairings im going to
have to use minimum 4-6 cans of paint @
Subtotal: $56.92 +Tax around 4.50 each Adding another $27.00
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Post by mms1361 on Jun 19, 2015 17:11:52 GMT -5
Got the ignition and got her started. The engine sounds alot healthier now. I adjusted the idle screw to bring the rpms down to 1700. I tried restarting ten minutes later but it wouldnt start. Gave it a little throttle and started again. Maybe the engine isnt hot enough. Ill have to readjust the idle and carb screws
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Post by ricardoguitars on Jun 19, 2015 17:15:36 GMT -5
Got the ignition and got her started. The engine sounds alot healthier now. I adjusted the idle screw to bring the rpms down to 1700. I tried restarting ten minutes later but it wouldnt start. Gave it a little throttle and started again. Maybe the engine isnt hot enough. Ill have to readjust the idle and carb screws Always set the idle when the engine is hot, just to be sure the enricher is off. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 19, 2015 17:38:23 GMT -5
geh3333 Well i went to two stores looking for that super clean degreaser. I didnt find any. So i looked up the base ingredient and it was sodium hydroxide. That is the main ingredient in oven degreasers too so i bought that instead. I tried using it on the lense but it had no effect. I did see the foam yellowing up but i think these lenses have been in the sun wayyyy too long. The degreaser seems to have fogged part of the lense now, hopefully i can remove it, if not, its not a big deal. Replaced the gear oil today and assembled some of the trim. Reattached the valve cover. My lock shipment arrived today in my state. Hopefully its sent out for delivery this morning and will delivered a day earlier than expected. Cant wait I think im going to go ahead and respray the plastic fairings. Anyone have any ideas for colors? I was thinking a dark grey top with the silver bottom. Hopefully i can match the silver paint on the bottom enough to keep the Roketa logo. As for the top, i want to completely get rid of the hydraulic suspension and Z - BIKE decals. These are all the parts along with the associated costs that have come along so far.
New igntion Lockset 15.99
2x Black Trim Paint 15.98
Hi Temp RTV 7.49
80w90 Gear Oil 4.19 Feeler Gagues 3.99 Fuses 3.49
Zip Ties 2.99 1 gal of octane gas 2.80 10w40 4t Engine Oil Free (stored)
Dot 3 Brake Fluid Free (stored)
2 part Epoxy Free (stored)
Brake Cleaner Free (stored) If i want to repaint the fairings im going to
have to use minimum 4-6 cans of paint @
Subtotal: $56.92 +Tax around 4.50 each Adding another $27.00
If you already sanded them, I doubt it would have helped clean at all. I wonder if there was something else in the oven cleaner that fogged them up ? I suggest setting the valves to a tight .004 and .004 . just make sure the .005 can not fit into the exhaust valve gap. The bigger the gap , the least amount of time the valves stay open , letting in air and fuel and letting out the exhaust. |
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Post by mms1361 on Jun 20, 2015 5:01:46 GMT -5
Ok folks i did not try anything after yesterday afternoon, i got tied up with other things.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to why the scoot has a hard time starting? I adjusted the idle screw because the idle rpm was at about 2000rpm. I did it after running the bike for approx 3mins. It only starts if i give it throttle. Once its running it has a somewhat steady idle.
Im going to readjust the valves one more time and set the exhaust to 004
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 20, 2015 5:49:37 GMT -5
Ok folks i did not try anything after yesterday afternoon, i got tied up with other things. Does anyone have any suggestions as to why the scoot has a hard time starting? I adjusted the idle screw because the idle rpm was at about 2000rpm. I did it after running the bike for approx 3mins. It only starts if i give it throttle. Once its running it has a somewhat steady idle. Im going to readjust the valves one more time and set the exhaust to 004 It could just be that it needs to be tuned in a little better. |
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Post by lain on Jun 20, 2015 7:55:33 GMT -5
Sounds like dirt in the idle jet in the carb or bad mix screw setting. try a known working carb if you have one in another scoot, or clean the carb.
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Post by mms1361 on Jun 20, 2015 9:34:05 GMT -5
Ok so i readjusted the exhaust so now both valves are at .004 When warm it starts back up instantly no hesitation. When cold i can get the bike to start up fairly quicker now, it still requires a slight blip at the throttle. I messed around with the mixer screw and im about 1.5 turns out. I dont notice an immediate RPM difference as soon as i turn the screw. When i crank it cold i have to hold throttle to keep it running for a sec or two while i wait for the choke to kick in Then the rpms jump to about 2000 and slowly settle back down to 1500. Does 1.5 turns out sound about right for the mixer screw? I did remove the carb and inspect the jets 2 days ago, everything looked clear and i also sprayed them. The carb was in pretty good shape, no gunk buildup anywhere I also have a couple other issues Theres a P light that stays on which i assume stands for Park. How do i make it go away? The fuel gauge also isnt working. I tried removing and adjusting the float with no difference. Im not too worried about the gauge but if you have any tests let me know.  In the front end i have 3 loose connections. One of them is for the headlights. I dont know what the single wire and the other plug is for.  |
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Post by lain on Jun 20, 2015 11:07:44 GMT -5
I usually start adjusting from 2 turns out on the carb, 1.5 being the minimum for me. It really depends on your regular weather and conditions. 1.5 might be perfect for you but I usually keep screwing until there is no change in rpms or it starts getting lower then go back a little bit.
Take the fuel sensor out and turn the key to on, the needle should go up and down when you move the lever/floater. If it doesn't the sensor is dead.
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Post by mms1361 on Jun 20, 2015 11:49:26 GMT -5
Welp folks, i appreciate all the help but it looks like the shows over.
I took it for a test drive and nearly broke my leg. I tried stopping after a quick throttle jerk but needless to say the scoot didnt stop in time. Im not an idiot, i have a moto endorsement. The scoot clipped a 4x4 post and my leg hit something pretty damn good. My brother saw the surprise unfold infront of him. I havent really looked it over but somethings definetley funky with the steering column. I think its not worth doing anything more.
Im an idiot lol
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octane gas 2.80