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Post by geh3333 on May 28, 2015 15:34:29 GMT -5
How's it going ? I have an 11 pole stator and was wondering if it was for an AC or DC setup ? Can anyone help me out . here are the pics.  .  |
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Post by keikara on May 28, 2015 16:18:57 GMT -5
I am guessing but I think when they have that extra wrapped pole it is a/c, however I may be wrong, just seem to remember reading somewhere that a/c has that and d/c does not.
edit: I may be totally wrong, when I looked up pictures the ones they are saying are ac and the ones that state are dc both look the same and have the same plug connections.
Now my scooter has the same 4 plug and 2 wires from the stator and it is an ac system, only reason I am sure on it is the cdi I have is an ac cdi. |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 28, 2015 16:43:42 GMT -5
Yes, It looks like a three phase, A/C stator. The R/R you want will also need to be three phase, full wave, normally 6 or 7 wire.....
Where your thumb is behind the plug in the top pic, the wires going to it are 3 yellows right?
The D/C 11 poles that I have seen have a white/yellow/pink wire and have dedicated for the A/C charging circuit that DOES NOT go to the CDI.
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Post by JR on May 28, 2015 19:49:26 GMT -5
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Post by dmartin95 on May 28, 2015 20:31:53 GMT -5
Good post, just thought I would add: Red/W Black tracer (black stripe)goes to your A/C power input (if you have a A/C CDI.) Blue/white = pulse coil or trigger wire to CDI. 3 yellows = Ac charging to R/R Green = ground. |
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Post by geh3333 on May 28, 2015 21:51:22 GMT -5
Thank you guys so much !! I was hoping it was for an AC setup. Now I just need the regulator. I'll be able to run two h4 bulbs as long as they don't melt the lens, lol. If i have to, I'll drill a few holes near the back top of the lens so some of the heat can escape. Maybe even install a small fan somehow behind the lights. Not sure if i can find a good spot where it will actually help cool the lens.
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Post by dmartin95 on May 28, 2015 22:28:52 GMT -5
Thank you guys so much !! I was hoping it was for an AC setup. Now I just need the regulator. I'll be able to run two h4 bulbs as long as they don't melt the lens, lol. If i have to, I'll drill a few holes near the back top of the lens so some of the heat can escape. Maybe even install a small fan somehow behind the lights. Not sure if i can find a good spot where it will actually help cool the lens. You're welcome. I recommend going with a 7 wire, full wave, 3 phase R/R. It should have 3 yellow on their own plug and a 4 pin with one of each / green / red / black / white. |
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Post by steve on May 29, 2015 9:39:25 GMT -5
I just installed an 11 pole, GEH. Yours is absolutely the AC version. Here is what I did:
First, I cut off the connector that has the 3 hot wires, and the ground. The power output wires will either all 3 be yellow, or, as mine was, a yellow, a white, and a pink.
I kept the stock R/R as is, to charge the battery. I installed a 7 wire R/R right across from it. I just spliced 2 of the lead wires, where they go to both reg's. The 3rd wire obviously goes to the 3rd lead on the 7 wire reg. The other 2 wires go to both regulators. This is perfectly fine, because you are not going to put any "strain" on the stator. They produce what they produce. You either use it all, or you don't. What you don't use get's shunted to your frame, which almost certainly has to turn into heat, the way I understand it. Most of the 7 wire reg's are really 6 wire. They will all have 3 hot inputs, plus a ground. Get one with a red and white wire coming out of it. There are some that have a red and a black wire. I am pretty sure the black wire is a "monitor wire". I like having the red and white wire, because both of those are DC output wires. I used the red one to run 1 50 watt LED headlight, and one 13 watt LED headlight. I used the white wire to run an LED taillight, plus another 55 watt headlight that I only use on really dark roads. I know, I know, that's a LOT of light, but I have some Tim Allen in me. Having the 3 phase regulator run your lights is great, because it is "full wave", which doesn't dim hardly at all at low RPM. If you run it as I have, you don't have to have a switch to your lights, and worry about switching them off when you park. They cut on when you fire her up, and they cut off when you cut her off. If you want to keep your high/low beam switch on your handle bar, you can use the white for low beam, and the red for high beam, or vise versa.
I cut the connector off of the 7 wire regulator.(get one that has actual wires coming off of it, as that makes it MUCH easier to tell what goes where).
Get a couple of packs of the weather resistant bullet connectors, and you can crimp those on wherever you need a connection. If you need any help with this stuff, pm me, and I'll give you my phone #, and you can call me. I just totally rewired my scoot, and am still working on it a little. You have been very helpful to me, and I will be happy to help you out with this.
Another thing, an 8 pole flywheel will work fine with the 11 pole stator. I know this for an absolute fact. You can find an 8 pole flywheel for pretty cheap. Basically, if the stator will fit inside the flywheel, it will likely work.
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Post by steve on May 29, 2015 9:48:38 GMT -5
As others have posted, the red and black wire is the power wire for the cdi, the blue one is from the pickup, and is the timing wire for the cdi.
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Post by JR on May 29, 2015 21:11:55 GMT -5
I just installed an 11 pole, GEH. Yours is absolutely the AC version. Here is what I did: First, I cut off the connector that has the 3 hot wires, and the ground. The power output wires will either all 3 be yellow, or, as mine was, a yellow, a white, and a pink. I kept the stock R/R as is, to charge the battery. I installed a 7 wire R/R right across from it. I just spliced 2 of the lead wires, where they go to both reg's. The 3rd wire obviously goes to the 3rd lead on the 7 wire reg. The other 2 wires go to both regulators. This is perfectly fine, because you are not going to put any "strain" on the stator. They produce what they produce. You either use it all, or you don't. What you don't use get's shunted to your frame, which almost certainly has to turn into heat, the way I understand it. Most of the 7 wire reg's are really 6 wire. They will all have 3 hot inputs, plus a ground. Get one with a red and white wire coming out of it. There are some that have a red and a black wire. I am pretty sure the black wire is a "monitor wire". I like having the red and white wire, because both of those are DC output wires. I used the red one to run 1 50 watt LED headlight, and one 13 watt LED headlight. I used the white wire to run an LED taillight, plus another 55 watt headlight that I only use on really dark roads. I know, I know, that's a LOT of light, but I have some Tim Allen in me. Having the 3 phase regulator run your lights is great, because it is "full wave", which doesn't dim hardly at all at low RPM. If you run it as I have, you don't have to have a switch to your lights, and worry about switching them off when you park. They cut on when you fire her up, and they cut off when you cut her off. If you want to keep your high/low beam switch on your handle bar, you can use the white for low beam, and the red for high beam, or vise versa. I cut the connector off of the 7 wire regulator.(get one that has actual wires coming off of it, as that makes it MUCH easier to tell what goes where). Get a couple of packs of the weather resistant bullet connectors, and you can crimp those on wherever you need a connection. If you need any help with this stuff, pm me, and I'll give you my phone #, and you can call me. I just totally rewired my scoot, and am still working on it a little. You have been very helpful to me, and I will be happy to help you out with this. Another thing, an 8 pole flywheel will work fine with the 11 pole stator. I know this for an absolute fact. You can find an 8 pole flywheel for pretty cheap. Basically, if the stator will fit inside the flywheel, it will likely work. While I won't argue with your results on the two R/R's because it's apparent it's working it's actually just overkill. The 7-pin R/R will do the job with no issues and handle the 140W that most 11 pole stators produce. If you disconnect the second R/R and wire it correctly you'll see no performance difference. JR |
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Post by steve on May 31, 2015 0:02:07 GMT -5
I just installed an 11 pole, GEH. Yours is absolutely the AC version. Here is what I did: First, I cut off the connector that has the 3 hot wires, and the ground. The power output wires will either all 3 be yellow, or, as mine was, a yellow, a white, and a pink. I kept the stock R/R as is, to charge the battery. I installed a 7 wire R/R right across from it. I just spliced 2 of the lead wires, where they go to both reg's. The 3rd wire obviously goes to the 3rd lead on the 7 wire reg. The other 2 wires go to both regulators. This is perfectly fine, because you are not going to put any "strain" on the stator. They produce what they produce. You either use it all, or you don't. What you don't use get's shunted to your frame, which almost certainly has to turn into heat, the way I understand it. Most of the 7 wire reg's are really 6 wire. They will all have 3 hot inputs, plus a ground. Get one with a red and white wire coming out of it. There are some that have a red and a black wire. I am pretty sure the black wire is a "monitor wire". I like having the red and white wire, because both of those are DC output wires. I used the red one to run 1 50 watt LED headlight, and one 13 watt LED headlight. I used the white wire to run an LED taillight, plus another 55 watt headlight that I only use on really dark roads. I know, I know, that's a LOT of light, but I have some Tim Allen in me. Having the 3 phase regulator run your lights is great, because it is "full wave", which doesn't dim hardly at all at low RPM. If you run it as I have, you don't have to have a switch to your lights, and worry about switching them off when you park. They cut on when you fire her up, and they cut off when you cut her off. If you want to keep your high/low beam switch on your handle bar, you can use the white for low beam, and the red for high beam, or vise versa. I cut the connector off of the 7 wire regulator.(get one that has actual wires coming off of it, as that makes it MUCH easier to tell what goes where). Get a couple of packs of the weather resistant bullet connectors, and you can crimp those on wherever you need a connection. If you need any help with this stuff, pm me, and I'll give you my phone #, and you can call me. I just totally rewired my scoot, and am still working on it a little. You have been very helpful to me, and I will be happy to help you out with this. Another thing, an 8 pole flywheel will work fine with the 11 pole stator. I know this for an absolute fact. You can find an 8 pole flywheel for pretty cheap. Basically, if the stator will fit inside the flywheel, it will likely work. While I won't argue with your results on the two R/R's because it's apparent it's working it's actually just overkill. The 7-pin R/R will do the job with no issues and handle the 140W that most 11 pole stators produce. If you disconnect the second R/R and wire it correctly you'll see no performance difference. JR Yeah, I kept the old one just to save the time of running a few extra wires. I needed DC voltage for my headlights, and didn't want to have to run them off of the battery. I would have to put them on a switch, and I would forget to turn them off, and kill my battery in the first week. If I got rid of the old regulator, I would have to use the DC lines for other stuff. I used the 7 wire regulator just to convert the lighting to DC. Hope that makes sense. |
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Post by steve on May 31, 2015 8:44:19 GMT -5
You can tell a big difference with the 3 phase stator and regulator. The lights don't dim at all when you are stopped.
LED lights just don't like voltage coming off of a rectifier. I guess it's because of the pulses, but a couple of the LED's on mine went out this week. If they are connected to the battery, it's no problem. Take the battery out of the equation, and hook them up to the DC output on a rectifier, even a full wave, and they are a little dimmer, and like to die. Oh well. I kept one LED light, and put it on a switch from the battery. I switched the other LED light to halogen. H3 halogen running lights did not like being connected to the AC voltage. It is not supposed to matter, but they would last about 2-3 hours hooked up to my factory lighting wires. My headlight lens started melting. Then, 2 bulbs literally exploded like a bomb within a couple of days, so I ripped the wiring out, and installed this 3 phase deal.
Does anybody know why LED lights don't like to be powered by a rectifier?
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Post by JR on Jun 1, 2015 0:19:32 GMT -5
You can tell a big difference with the 3 phase stator and regulator. The lights don't dim at all when you are stopped. LED lights just don't like voltage coming off of a rectifier. I guess it's because of the pulses, but a couple of the LED's on mine went out this week. If they are connected to the battery, it's no problem. Take the battery out of the equation, and hook them up to the DC output on a rectifier, even a full wave, and they are a little dimmer, and like to die. Oh well. I kept one LED light, and put it on a switch from the battery. I switched the other LED light to halogen. H3 halogen running lights did not like being connected to the AC voltage. It is not supposed to matter, but they would last about 2-3 hours hooked up to my factory lighting wires. My headlight lens started melting. Then, 2 bulbs literally exploded like a bomb within a couple of days, so I ripped the wiring out, and installed this 3 phase deal. Does anybody know why LED lights don't like to be powered by a rectifier? The 7-pin R/R and 11 pole stator are still a half/wave AC to DC set up and most scooters run the tail/stop and turn signal lights off of the battery when the key is on, some will do the instrument lights there as well some don't. Voltage on a half/wave R/R has ripples and spikes in it and LED bulbs are sometimes sensitive to these voltage fluctuations. The DC battery side is more stable and sometimes it's a matter of the quality of the bulbs one buys? To put a full wave R/R on one needs to make the stator full wave DC also which can be done with little effort too. JR |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 1, 2015 0:34:12 GMT -5
The LEDs I have running from the regulator right now constantly flicker really fast .I have the h4 ran directly from the battery.
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Post by dmartin95 on Jun 1, 2015 2:54:22 GMT -5
That's incorrect. The 11 pole A/C stator is a three phase generator and the 7 pin R/R that goes with it is full wave. No modifications are required. That is also incorrect. All one needs to do to install a full wave R/R is install a full R/R and either couple it with three phase stator or use a two phase stator and float the ground. |
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