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Post by ital on Jun 14, 2015 0:06:20 GMT -5
Just did the first oil change after a few miles of break in running and there were noticeable metal shavings so I am glad I did it. I plan to do next oil change in about 100miles?
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 14, 2015 0:24:28 GMT -5
Glad to hear She Lives
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Post by ital on Jun 14, 2015 8:12:15 GMT -5
Good or bad, I will keep you updated so we all can learn. I am also doing a hard break in. I only put about 5 miles on her now, so I only have about 20 more miles of hard break in. I am thinking at that point I will do the next oil change with regular oil as I put synthetic in now, but from what I am reading regular oil is better during break in period. Thank you
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 14, 2015 8:19:31 GMT -5
Good or bad, I will keep you updated so we all can learn. I am also doing a hard break in. I only put about 5 miles on her now, so I only have about 20 more miles of hard break in. I am thinking at that point I will do the next oil change with regular oil as I put synthetic in now, but from what I am reading regular oil is better during break in period. Thank you Yes you need Dino Oil for Break in. Will be very difficult or next to Impossible to break in with Synth. Oil. Ive had experience moving to Synth, to quickly on a Sport bike build. I had to run it on a Dyno that had a genuine break, The Break I could really crank down on the Engine load. MC Dyno's with breaks are near impossible to find, Most are what I call spin testers. |
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 14, 2015 8:45:36 GMT -5
Here you can learn from another one of My Mistakes many years ago, Was working on IH eqpmnt. Single Cylinder cast Iron kohlers. Had substantial experience at the time with these rebuilds. I was introduced to a oil additive product similar to Z-Max or Slick Whatever, I think it was called Pro-Long. I watched to demo in amazement of its Anti-Wear properties. So suffering from Brain fade I thought Wow! assemble one of these puppies with this stuff. WRONG!!!!!  Was so Slippery it wouldn't even Pop on Ether. Had to tear down and Wash the Cylinder Down with Acetone and Re-Hone. Reassemble with Dino and Bingo she's a runner. Oil Has to do three thing's it is a lubricant, Sealant and Coolant. |
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Post by ital on Jun 14, 2015 23:11:41 GMT -5
pistonguyWent for a nice little run today, she is running strong. I am hitting 70cmph but my rpm are too high, about 8300 when i pull back, i think she has more into her but dont want to go any higher in rpm... I am going to add a one gram, that should bring me to around 7800 rpm. I drove on the highway today and she kept up with traffic fairly easy. take off is very good at around 7400 rpm right now, and it stay to about 7900 rpm till about 65cmph not sure what is the best solution. add roller weight or change gearing? George what do you think? ordered some regular castrol 10w 40 oil coming in Tuesday and will change the oil and finish the break in with that.
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 15, 2015 7:58:32 GMT -5
pistonguyWent for a nice little run today, she is running strong. I am hitting 70cmph but my rpm are too high, about 8300 when i pull back, i think she has more into her but dont want to go any higher in rpm... I am going to add a one gram, that should bring me to around 7800 rpm. I drove on the highway today and she kept up with traffic fairly easy. take off is very good at around 7400 rpm right now, and it stay to about 7900 rpm till about 65cmph not sure what is the best solution. add roller weight or change gearing? George what do you think? ordered some regular castrol 10w 40 oil coming in Tuesday and will change the oil and finish the break in with that. If Im reading this correctly KMPH? This is only 45.49 whatever MPH, that being said the Analog gauges are not very accurate. Is the RPM off the Analog or do you have a Digital connected directly to the Spark Plug lead? My Analog Tach. is off by a Couple Hundred RPM at idle, It gets Progressively Worse (Incorrect) as the RPM's climb, to were it is off by More than 500 RPM over 7,000 RPM. I don't have allot of experience with Variator weights and I will only chime in were I have personal experience. It appears that all these BBK mods should be complement with a gearing change. Now pointing out the inaccuracy of the Analog, my GY-6, 150 with only Minor Mods of Intake, jetting, Ignition, Variator, Clutch Mods will do bouts 52mph. |
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Post by ital on Jun 15, 2015 9:35:37 GMT -5
I called them Chinese MPH (CMPH), because I am not using a GPS. These are MPH and not KPH. My guess I am hitting around 65 real MPH without pushing the limits as of now. I just need George to chime in if he thinks I should change weights or gears  I'll PM him |
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 15, 2015 11:09:14 GMT -5
I called them Chinese MPH (CMPH), because I am not using a GPS. These are MPH and not KPH. My guess I am hitting around 65 real MPH without pushing the limits as of now. I just need George to chime in if he thinks I should change weights or gears I'll PM him Ok, Thanks for clearing that up for me. |
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 15, 2015 11:37:34 GMT -5
Sorry bud , I just got back on here a little bit ago . go with heavier weights . go up 1 gram at a time and mark the variator with a sharpie so u can see how high the belt is climbing. That's the main factor in " do in need to change gearing " . keep going up in weights , until you either have full climb or are around 73-7500 rpms on a straight run . if you reach full climb and still have high rpms , the u will need to change gearing.
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Post by ital on Jun 15, 2015 17:04:02 GMT -5
Well I think I need gears but I will lower the weight first and do the sharpie thing. The reason I am saying that is because RPM stay at like 7700 RPM till about 60CMPH or so and then RPM climb after that MPH, I am guessing it is because the belt has reached its maxed and thus RPM start to climb...
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 15, 2015 19:17:21 GMT -5
Well I think I need gears but I will lower the weight first and do the sharpie thing. The reason I am saying that is because RPM stay at like 7700 RPM till about 60CMPH or so and then RPM climb after that MPH, I am guessing it is because the belt has reached its maxed and thus RPM start to climb... What size weights are you running ? |
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Post by ital on Jun 15, 2015 19:49:22 GMT -5
I am running 11.5 grams with 3 12 grams roller and 3 11 gram sliders... :-)
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 15, 2015 20:38:18 GMT -5
I am running 11.5 grams with 3 12 grams roller and 3 11 gram sliders... :-) Try all twelve gram rollers |
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Post by ital on Jun 26, 2015 10:11:18 GMT -5
Hi all, here is an update. After fixing the oil leak due to the chain tensioner center bolt missing I am back in business.
I made the following changes:
1) Add the 12 grams roller back
2) removed the air filter cover off the box to give it more air
3) added 5mm insulator spacer
after installing heavier rollers still hitting 8k rpm easy not even at full throttle so I think gears are next
interesting enough with no uni filter on scooter ran great, when i put the air box tube with the uni filter and no cover it seems it get even more air and it runs lean, so I'll have to put the cover back on and confirm it does fix the lean sensation at full trottle.
the spacer i got is 25mm and it might be restricting some fuel so i ordered a 27MM or might not use one at all
That is the update I have for now - Luigi
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