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Post by 1parrot2 on Apr 24, 2015 20:21:13 GMT -5
I replaced the clutch, variaror and belt, on my Bali 250 scooter. It has about 200 miles on it since doing the change. I take off crankcase cover to view it - it appears everything is alright. Is there anything that can stop the squeeky noise. Thanks..
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Post by kevinharrell on Apr 25, 2015 20:50:11 GMT -5
I had a similar noise after changing a belt and it ended up being a bad bearing that later seized. So, you might want to confirm the source of the noise.  |
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Post by bandito2 on Apr 25, 2015 21:59:32 GMT -5
That is not all that uncommon after putting a new drive belt on a 250 Honda Reflex scooter. I have heard of others that have had the same sort of thing happen with their scoots after a new belt install. After the newness wears off, it stops with the squeaking heard on accelerating away from a stop.
Howver,
Does it squeak when you give it throttle, but before you even start to move away? If so, the new belt becomes suspect.
Does it squeak all the time or just when starting to move away?
If it squeaks all or most of the time and does so whether accelerating or decelerating then you should take a closer look at the bearings. If it is bearing noise, well then there you go... new bearings should fix it.
If you can confirm that it is not bearings, then put some miles on it... the noise should eventually go away.
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Post by 1parrot2 on Apr 26, 2015 21:17:38 GMT -5
It does squeak when it idles or when reving up engine. It does not begin to make a squeaking noise until about 45 MPH.. Could be a wheel bearing I suppose. Been a while since adding grease to axles and bearing. At least 3 years. Being that I just changed the variator, clutch and belt some 200 miles ago, I would think those are the likely answer. Belt sits in clutch about 1/3 inch lower than it used too. Clutch I could not make as tight as before - the nut has about one turn more to be in exact same tightness as original. Nut was tightened with impact wrench as tight as would go. Variator also was tightened with impact wrench. The speed of scooter is able to move at highway speeds. Sounds normal at low speeds and the faster it goes, the more I notice the squeak.
I did find out why my other clutch was making a noise. From taking the cvt crankcase off, I lost the dows and so the crankcase was rubbing the clutch. So when changed, kept all parts.
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Post by 1parrot2 on Apr 26, 2015 23:55:48 GMT -5
I think I found the source of the problem. The clutch is still rubbing the crankcase. This causes the squeaking at high speeds - 45 to 70 MPH. At slower speeds, it is not obvious. The metal dows that I bought, were from a auto parts store, but they must still be to short. Evidently the dows are shorter than Roketa's and short I will add spacers to it, so it is long enough to maintain clearance of the crankcase. Thank You
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Post by 1parrot2 on Apr 27, 2015 12:06:18 GMT -5
Well, that was it.. The bell on the clutch was barely toughing the crankcase, spinning and making a squeak. I placed a small bolt in first and than the metal Dow in( gave the width of 2 mm more to Dow). Gave enough clearance to make crankcase sit freely on it without touching the bell. No more squeak. Rode it 65 MPH to test it.
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Post by bandito2 on May 17, 2015 22:42:29 GMT -5
Odd, but I would think that the cover does not fit flush with the case now as it should. This is apparently a different type/brand of clutch and is larger than what was on it earlier? The locator dowels are there to make sure the cover is properly aligned on the drive-line case. They are not meant as stand-offs. Now, with a small gap, water, dust, grit, mud etc. will be able to get in there and cause premature wear on parts (belt, pulley faces, clutch shoes, pulley boss at the variator and shaft that the moveable face rides on at the clutch.)
Still, something is not right. I would think that the part rubbing at speed is the moveable face at the clutch. Because as the belt goes up the pulley face at the variator, it goes down into the pulley at the clutch. And the moveable face at the clutch moves outward toward the cover and is rubbing on something (even more) as it moves outward. The clutch bell does NOT move in or out.
Never heard of aftermarket clutches intended as direct replacements to have fitment issues. Are you absolutely sure when you reassembled that everything went back together as it should? I'm suspecting not. Like maybe the fixed, driven face is not seated all the way back onto the axle. If it were me, I would disassemble it and make absolutely certain that ALL of the correct part were there and assembled in the proper order and fitted all the way on and everything torqued down to spec.
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Post by fireball12 on Jul 24, 2015 19:00:08 GMT -5
It is not a squeeking of the belt. The belt can make a clicking noise, which some do, when they are new. See, the belt must be conformed to fit into variator. If groves are misaliegned the belt will make a clicking noise every once in a while until properly seded. If squeeking, something is wrong.
A new variator will squeek if the bar in middle is rubbing inner part of variator. I note, this is not a uncommon problem and should stop squeeking after 50 to 100 miles after getting seded.
A new clutch may loose power if clutch bell gets greasèy and causes the shoes to become glazed. Take off the bell and clean it and take sand paper to the shoes to get rid of glaze.
A grinding noise from CVT when slowing down, is a normal sound. It is the belt conforming to the clutch. It will make this noise until properly seded.
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Post by rockynv on Jul 30, 2015 4:01:00 GMT -5
Did you eliminate the gasket when you replaced the cvt cover? It is still possible that the clutch bell is not sitting correctly on the splines or that you have one of the washers that should be between the nut and the clutch bell underneath the clutch bell pushing it further out. A thin washer is about 1 mm while the thick can be 2 or 3 mm.
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Post by fireball12 on Jul 30, 2015 15:17:30 GMT -5
I will replace the also. It was not that. It was a rattle noise in engine. At times it got louder and softer but still a strange sound. I eliminated the head and compression, because it still rode at 65 MPH. Well, today my new starter went out again, after using only one month. I took off starter and placed my finger in, where Bendix went. Could wiggle the starter clutch, pretty easily. 7.5 yrs of riding and now it is time to replace some old parts. Will order a new starter clutch, water pump, oil pump and cdi. Something tells me, that the starter clutch was going out, for some time. 4 starters since buying new and the third starter gave me problems but still made last three years by not pressing starter button longer than 2 seconds. Might want to replace a few more parts, just to make sure don't have to go back in for a while. About $300 in new parts. A new starter clutch is $50. Cdi is $100, water pump is $30, oil pump $20, gasket $4, oil pump chain is $15. $50 new starter motor.  |
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